REEFER 250 All Captive-Bred FISH, SPS, Zoanthids, ULNS with RS NOPOX, RS AB+, Radion AB+

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powers2001

powers2001

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Bought some custom made stuff from @TheHarold at Harry’s Aquatics. Probe holder that mounts to an adjustable optic switch holder I already bought from Harry. The probe holder and switch holders slide up and down on a rod that mounts to a sump baffle. Also bought a 24V terminal for EB832 accessory ports. I can attach up to two bare wire accessories to the terminal and run them off one EB832 or one FMM port. And last of all a custom built cooling fan for the electronics crammed in the tight space in my Reefer cabinet. The thing looks like a Cadillac and is built with some top notch parts. It connects to my EB832 through a 24V port. Harry even included mounting screws and a drill bit for screw pilot holes. Can’t wait to get this thing mounted and try it out. I plan to control the temperature in the space using an Apex probe module with temp probe and the 24V port to switch the fan on and off.
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Zoanthids

TheHarold

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Bought some custom made stuff from @TheHarold at Harry’s Aquatics. Probe holder that mounts to an adjustable optic switch holder I already bought from Harry. The probe holder and switch holders slide up and down on a rod that mounts to a sump baffle. Also bought a 24V terminal for EB832 accessory ports. I can attach up to two bare wire accessories to the terminal and run them off one EB832 or one FMM port. And last of all a custom built cooling fan for the electronics crammed in the tight space in my Reefer cabinet. The thing looks like a Cadillac and is built with some top notch parts. It connects to my EB832 through a 24V port. Harry even included mounting screws and a drill bit for screw pilot holes. Can’t wait to get this thing mounted and try it out. I plan to control the temperature in the space using an Apex probe module with temp probe and the 24V port to switch the fan on and off.
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Looks good and thanks for the shoutout! Hopefully the eyelet + template combo makes the install easy.

Definitely use the drill bit; those small Philips screws are a bit prone to stripping when used in a good quality plywood. I started to include a drill bit because on my end, always including a $.15 drill bit ends up being about the same cost as occasionally mailing replacement screws via tracked mail (Starts at $3.50). Plus it avoids frustrating customers with a poor experience and/or delayed install. Win win!
 
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powers2001

powers2001

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Looks good and thanks for the shoutout! Hopefully the eyelet + template combo makes the install easy.

Definitely use the drill bit; those small Philips screws are a bit prone to stripping when used in a good quality plywood. I started to include a drill bit because on my end, always including a $.15 drill bit ends up being about the same cost as occasionally mailing replacement screws via tracked mail (Starts at $3.50). Plus it avoids frustrating customers with a poor experience and/or delayed install. Win win!
@TheHarold no problem!!!

I will tape the template in place and it should be a cinch to line up the holes. Thanks for the drill bit that’s great customer service.
 
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I’ve moved control boxes around so much I leave empty holes everywhere. I just found a better solution to cover them up. Previously I was just using a putty knife with wood putty, then blackening the putty with a sharpie after drying. But I was just experimenting with poor results. Then I found this enamel paint marker that matches the Reefer stands and you have to look close to see the difference. But I was having a hard time getting even coverage with the putty as the holes were jagged from the bits tearing. Now I’m experimenting with a countersink bit to round out the surface of the holes and now the putty spreads evenly.
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I didn’t use the countersink on hole 1 and it’s rough. The enamel on hole 2 shows the roughness of the putty. And hole 3 was rounded out with the countersink. Now I’m going to experiment with wiping the excess putty off with a sponge or something. Like when you work with drywall. The putty knife makes so much more mess without the countersink.
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Jeffcb

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I have this Harry’s Aquatics custom made cooling fan installed and I bought it from @TheHarold who hangs out here on R2R.
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Sump is looking good. Gotta add water soon!
Harry's Aquatics makes good stuff. I have several of his products.
 
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powers2001

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Sump is looking good. Gotta add water soon!
Harry's Aquatics makes good stuff. I have several of his products.
@Jeffcb thanks Jeff!! Everything is coming along slowly and I have a lot of things to do still. Last night started labeling dozens of cords and Apex module ports with a label maker. Making sure the right inputs go to the right module ports. Started cycling my dryrock. Photos coming. Yes Harry makes some great stuff!!
 
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powers2001

powers2001

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Right now I have I have 25 Apex modules and more to come:

5 FMM
5 Probe Modules
3 Break out Boxes
3 Energy Bars
1 DOS soon to have 2 more
1AFS
1 WXM
1 VDM
1 LSM
1 Display Module
1 COR Pump
1 1Link Module
1 Apex Base Unit
and soon to have a Trident
 
Fritz
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powers2001

powers2001

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Are you cycling dead rock from your old tank?
@BeMoto yes most of it is from this same tank before the crash and before starting over. I’m using Live Rock Enhance by Reef Brite to help cycle. It’s got bacteria culture with enzymes that activate when put in water. The rock is Pukani which I really like because it’s the most porous rock from the reef giving it the most surface area for bacteria to colonize. This is quite evident when you handle it from the lightweight. When I originally ordered for this Reefer I bought 20 pounds which wasn’t enough so I bought 50 more and ended up with way too much. I’ve got a lot of pieces to choose from with most of them being football sized and one the size of two basketballs put together which is way to big for a reasonable size aquascape.
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powers2001

powers2001

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Here’s my lid add-on from Fish Of Hex only $25. Custom 3D printed. Plugs for holes. No evasive mods to your skimmer. You can still sell your skimmer some day in the same shape as when you bought it. It’s for CO2 scrubbing. You can run tubing from your skimmer cup to the scrubber reactor to make it a recirculating design. This adds moisture to the scrubber media which increases the efficiency. Then my line running from the reactor to the skimmer intake will TEE off with a solenoid on one side to regulate amount of ambient air going into the skimmer versus scrubber reactor air.
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powers2001

powers2001

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Found this at Electric Solenoid online. For my CO2 scrubber system. I planned on using an actuating ball valve 3/4” which I still have. However it’s one size too big, is normally closed, and can’t be energized like a true solenoid. This new thing is a much better solution. Right size, right state of normal, anti-corrosive stainless steel, and most of all 24V DC powered. I will connect this to a 1-link accessory port on my EB832. Finding a place to mount it will just depend on keeping it from ever getting water inside the electronics. However this will have to go in the cabinet so there’s always a splash risk. Then I will have to do a solder job and allow a means by which I can disconnect the cable from the solenoid without going to the EB832 jack.
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I’ll use solder on connectors similar to these to avoid disconnection at the energy bar.
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powers2001

powers2001

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I have generation 1 and 2 IceCap BBUs to be recharged by a cheapo generator bought brand new for $125 at Harbor Freight Tools. Generator not safe to power electronics like a Honda inverter generator but can refresh BBUs. I use two 12V gen1 IceCap to backup my Apex’s 12V AquaBus system. I don’t skip a monitoring beat during an outage, it’s immediately up and running during and after the outage, and notifies me of an outage if I’m asleep or out of town as long as my internet router is on BBU as well. My first line of defense against outages is the gen2 BBU. If needed it powers my gyres. However I will replace this with an IceCap generation 3 BBU. The gen2 is strictly 24V while the gen3 is two phase: it normally is a go between the AC/DC power converter and the gyres at 24V. But when the power goes out, the voltage coming from the battery drops to 12V and flow from gyres drops accordingly thus preserving battery life.
 
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powers2001

powers2001

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I've been thinking about a fish list again and have been asked about one several times. I keep turning you guys down on posting any kind of livestock list, I feel it is bad karma. Surfing various websites looking for fish gets me excited and I want each addition to be a surprise to y'all. However I can let you on to a few things. They should all be captive-bred except for maybe a Sixline Wrasse. Just haven't found a captive-bred source for one of those. The Sixline Wrasse is one of my favorite fish, since it is semi-aggressive, since some of my other favorite fish like dwarf angels are semi-aggressive, I will only stock semi-aggressive fish to keep the playing field even. As for corals, everything mounted on rocks will be SPS. There will be some bottom dwelling corals like zoanthids, fungia, rock flower anemone, and possibly a clam. That is about all I can tell you for livestock right now.
 
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powers2001

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Well I sold my chiller. When I had a tank in a room with 3 completely closed walls and only one wall partly opened wall and the tank got hot in there. I put an oversized chiller on the tank and it took the heat out of the water and put it in the room. I’m going to setup another tank in the same room but this time put a window AC in the only little window of the room. Hopefully the tank will reach ambient air temperature as the AC takes heat out of the room, puts it outside the house, and replaces it with cooler air.
 
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@TheHarold 52.4 decibels 12 inches from the fan on the Decibel X app when the ambient noise level was 34.1 decibels also 12 inches from the fan. Had the fan custom made at Harry’s Aquatics. Next sound check is my TailGator generator next weekend.
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TheHarold

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@TheHarold 52.4 decibels 12 inches from the fan on the Decibel X app when the ambient noise level was 34.1 decibels also 12 inches from the fan. Had the fan custom made at Harry’s Aquatics. Next sound check is my TailGator generator next weekend.
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In context is this loud or quiet? I can’t tell. I think you got the 2000rpm fan which is pretty quiet
 
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In context is this loud or quiet? I can’t tell. I think you got the 2000rpm fan which is pretty quiet
@TheHarold yes in context it is quite quiet. I had a pump going in a bin, the AC on and turned them off for the reading. In comparison those two were roaring compared to the fan.
 
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