Red Sea REEFER 250 ALL Pre-Conditioned and most CAPTIVE-BRED Fish, SPS, Zoanthids. Slow Poke Reef. WE HAVE WATER!! start page 61.

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powers2001

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Oh @samnaz you’re guessing as to what’s supposed to be here by Wednesday. I thought you were correcting me about the surprise as being my last big purchase. Well now I remember the surprise is not because I need a Trident too. The Trident should be my last big purchase except for a couple of upgrades down the line.
 
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I just realized I may have a potential problem with my skimmer stand. I need a skimmer stand to get my skimmer cup’s drain fitting height high enough for skimmate to drain downhill into an ESHOPPS Skim Buddy waste collector. The skimmer’s footprint is a little bigger than the skimmer stand’s footprint which wouldn’t be a problem except that the skimmer’s intake port is on the bottom of the skimmer. This is an open volute style skimmer. A rubber foot on the bottom of the skimmer (see the second picture) extends past the surface of the skimmer stand. This closes the gap between the skimmer and stand which will restrict intake to the volute. I think I will drill a hole in the skimmer stand so the skimmer can draw in water from beneath the skimmer stand. There’s plenty of room underneath and there won’t be any intake restriction there. Plus I won’t have to buy a skimmer stand with a bigger footprint.

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Bottom of skimmer showing intake with volute drawing water from raised bottom (one rubber foot removed).
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Open volute style skimmer showing needlewheel impeller
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powers2001

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I worry about my heaters touching acrylic, PVC, plastic, silicone rubber, or cords although I have never had an issue in the past. Anyone have insight here or heard of stories? My heaters are crammed into my sump like all the other equipment.
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I worry about my heaters touching acrylic, PVC, plastic, silicone rubber, or cords although I have never had an issue in the past. Anyone have insight here or heard of stories? My heaters are crammed into my sump like all the other equipment.
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I worry the same thing although never had an issue myself. I got myself one of those neat acrylic zen reef heater holders that BRS used to stock. I also have the BRS titanium heating elements.
 
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I worry the same thing although never had an issue myself. I got myself one of those neat acrylic zen reef heater holders that BRS used to stock. I also have the BRS titanium heating elements.
@samnaz those holders are nice. I have this Octo Aquatics Dual Cobalt Neo-Therm holder but only have BRS titanium elements like you with InkBird for backup. If the heater companies sell the heaters with plastic or rubber suction cups they must be somewhat safe for those materials? I’ve touched heaters submerged in water before and they get hot enough to burn the skin. There must be a happy medium temperature they design with them.
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I worry about my heaters touching acrylic, PVC, plastic, silicone rubber, or cords although I have never had an issue in the past. Anyone have insight here or heard of stories? My heaters are crammed into my sump like all the other equipment.
DE3A0D5A-C807-457E-9BF5-C744CF10D540.jpeg

I don't any any horror stores. However, the person who built my sump (Jeff @ lifereef) said it isn't recommended to lay a heater on glass or acrylic. Recommended placing it on a piece of tile or other means to keep it off because he doesn't know how powerful of heater, or number of heaters, one might use. And just to be safe his recommendation has always been to not place it on the bottom or sides if it can fall and hit the bottom.

Made sense to me so I've never placed them on the bottom due to risk of me mucking it up somehow and having a flood...
 
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I think my BRS 1.1mL/min. doser will go here inside the IKEA cabinet. It would look too cluttered on the outside of the stand. I had to get another Wi-Fi LED strip controller because I couldn’t get the old one to work.
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This chiller weighs about 40 pounds and it’s bigger than I thought. I originally wanted a Teco chiller but it was another $150. Then I was debating on a Euro-Aquatics which was less than this JBJ. So I went middle of the road with this plus BRS had a lot of good to say about this series of product. It’s rated up to 120 USG and if its weight tells me something then there’s integrity built in. The room I’ll put it in was originally a small dining room that gets hot from trapped heat at just 9 foot x 9 foot, it will just fit the 250, utility cabinet with water change station, and a small comfy chair to observe the display tank from. I had a nano in there before and its chiller was necessary.
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I also bought what I believe is my last Apex module except for a Trident and 3 salinity probes. Another PM2 and a double 24V Panel Light from Adaptive Reef. Light gives me go ahead and stop statuses for various tasks on the system.

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I don't any any horror stores. However, the person who built my sump (Jeff @ lifereef) said it isn't recommended to lay a heater on glass or acrylic. Recommended placing it on a piece of tile or other means to keep it off because he doesn't know how powerful of heater, or number of heaters, one might use. And just to be safe his recommendation has always been to not place it on the bottom or sides if it can fall and hit the bottom.

Made sense to me so I've never placed them on the bottom due to risk of me mucking it up somehow and having a flood...
@saf1 I probably shouldn’t trust the suction cups but I’m going to use them to keep the heaters off the bottom of the sump. I’m also going to put a temperature probe in the same section of the sump as the heaters so if the return pump gets shut off or fails the probe will control the temp in the correct chamber and not a different chamber than the heater chamber. A temperature probe can read water of ambient temperature in one chamber while the heaters remain on with a false reading.
 
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Well I finally decided how to wire my T5 ballasts. The wire in the AC power cord is stranded so it can’t be inserted into the ballast receptacles. So I had to improvise. I connected solid core wires to the individual AC cords.

The tab presses down with a small screwdriver and a proper size and make wire is installed.
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This stranded wire is what’s in the AC cord. It won’t work.
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I used waterproof crimp connectors to attach solid core wires to the stranded wires.
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With a heat gun the waterproof insulation shrinks and is supposed to seal the wires.
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Testing electrical conductivity to be sure the crimp job is good. Some of the crimps aren’t very tight but I run out of connectors. If I can find some locally I’ll do it all again and put some dielectric grease inside the connectors to ensure conductivity.
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Sneak Peak from Adaptive Reef.

About two weeks ago Terrence from Neptune Systems interviewed Kyle from Adaptive Reef for a Let’s Talk Reef video on YouTube. A. Reef is coming out with a promising product I’m interested in. It’s a clear section of PVC that is an inline probe holder. Controller probes can be inserted into the pipe and a little collar screws down around the probe to hold it in there and keep water from escaping the pipe. Water flows through the pipe and the probes are able to test the water. This keeps probes out of the sump where room is prime real estate. From the picture looks like it holds a few probes. Well I emailed Adaptive Reef right away and asked about availability. Kyle got right back to me and said they’re building them right now and they will be available at BRS but didn’t say anything about an ETA. So then emailed BRS about an ETA. Mark at BRS said with a busy holiday schedule going on right now it looks like the probe holders won’t be available until after the new year starts. It sounded like from Kyle’s email that they will be in a limited supply. Well if the price is right I’ll snag one. My probes are always getting bumped around my sump when ever I do something in it.
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Kyle at Adaptive Reef also said I could get the same info I asked him from BRS. So I waited two weeks and emailed BRS again and they told me the same thing, I can email Kyle. Well I was surfing the R2R website and ran across a thread by @Elder1945 and remember that's the Adaptive Reef guy, Kyle. He has a thread about his controller cabinet products I found. I asked him these questions:

Specifically I would like to know the overall length of the holder, pipe size diameter of the clear PVC, pipe size of the inlet and outlet plumbing, and if there is one of the individual probe holders that will accept an Apex temperature probe?

This is what he posted:

I am finalizing a few things but we are building them now.

I will have specs on them soon and you should see them listed early in the new year.

For the temp probe, the short answer is no the long answer is that we are trying to figure out a way to make it work without custom-making something that would add to the cost.
 
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Now for cordage on the back of the stand. I need drip loops for everything because water can trickle down from tank and follow the cordage to the outlet, module, or receptacle and enter the electrical components. Visualize salt water meets high voltage!
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