This is what I see. @Rimsky I circled things that did not look right.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Just making sure you tested the aux 24v outlets, those with only 2 pins and not 4. 1Link outlets with 4 pins always have 24v power ON. While the two pin outlets are controlled by the relays and it's important to make sure those actually turn on and off.I did some investigation with my limited skills. The 1Link 24VDC outlets work. The relays click and there is 24V DC.
The 120VAC outlets still don't work. I can measure 12V on some of the relay pins, well, actually 11.26 VDC, not 12V. On those pins I can measure 11.24 VDC all the time, regardless of the outlet ON/OFF status.
The fan does not move. I'm not getting any voltage there.
Hi.Just making sure you tested the aux 24v outlets, those with only 2 pins and not 4. 1Link outlets with 4 pins always have 24v power ON. While the two pin outlets are controlled by the relays and it's important to make sure those actually turn on and off.
For the 120VAC relays, you should be able to measure 12v DC voltage (or close to it) across the two pins like so:
And only when the outlet is in the ON state. There shouldn't be 12v DC across those two pins if the outlet is in the OFF state.
Don't worry about the fan. It won't turn on unless triggered by the temperature sensor.
The fact that you are getting the 24v ports working rules out connectivity and controller issues. This is good.Hi.
Yes, I tested the 1Link 24V (2 pin) outlets and both work. The relay clicks and they have 24V DC when ON and no voltage when OFF.
I'm starting to give up. I already damaged the fan thinking it was 12V, connected it to the 12V output and burned it. Starting to get desperate and more stupid.
No need to test, it has a hole in it, it's gone.Hi. Inspecting the back side of the board, I see that this chip looks a little burned. What is it? How can I test it?
I’m limited on what I can get locally. Do you think one like this would work?No need to test, it has a hole in it, it's gone.
This is a voltage regulator. It makes 3.3v from the input 12v.
It is similar. You'd be running closer to it's maximum rated input voltage, but it's still within what I'd call normal. The original had V_in max at 20V, this one can't handle more than 15V. Your input voltage is 12v and may fluctuate up or down a bit. If that's all you can get, go for it.I’m limited on what I can get locally. Do you think one like this would work?
Transistor Regulador de voltaje AMS117- 3.3 SMD
Regulador de voltaje de caida baja de 80 mA. La serie AMS1117 de reguladores de voltaje ajustables y fijos están diseñados para proporcionar una corriente de salida de 800 mA y para operar hasta 1V de entrada a salida diferencial.www.electronicapty.com
I really appreciate all your help!
I now understand why. Too busy with all the acquisitions.Am surprised this hasn’t gotten taken down yet lol
No I think this thread is great it gives a lot of ppl good information. I think I seen you do a right up about this awhile go here or the Neptune page and it got taken down and I was disappointed. I like too see we’re there is flaws and we’re things could get better so the manufacturer can hopefully deal with the problemsI now understand why. Too busy with all the acquisitions.
I have a good feeling this is going to be it. One of the legs has conductivity to the 12V source and another leg has conductivity to a component near the relays and from there to the relays. All of them. I will try to get the part tomorrow and see. Already took the bad part out.It is similar. You'd be running closer to it's maximum rated input voltage, but it's still within what I'd call normal. The original had V_in max at 20V, this one can't handle more than 15V. Your input voltage is 12v and may fluctuate up or down a bit. If that's all you can get, go for it.
The pinout is the same. Just make sure you get it in the sot-223 package.@_AV I'm unable to get specs for the original regulator. I just want to make sure that the pinout is the same as the new one I'm getting, since they are not exactly the same part. Do you think they will be pin-compatible? I want to avoid frying more things.