Rodi new filter questions

NinnJinn

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So I bought a TDS module along with a pressure gauge and new filters for the entire Rodi system that I got used. I just turned it on flushed it for about 10 minutes then turned the valve to produce Rodi water.

Canister 1 has the floss filter. Canister 2 has the block charcoal and canister 3 has the DI resin.

I have sensor one hooked up to the water of my faucet.

Sensor number two is right before it goes to the RO membrane.

Sensor 3 is the output after the Di canister.




On the monitor sensor one is running 209 from my tap water. Sensor number 2 is running a lot higher than that. And the output of my entire system is running at 4.

Is this normal with brand new filters? Or am I doing something wrong?

20180316_234349.jpg


Tap water
20180316_233503.jpg


Reading before going through Ro membrane
20180316_234329.jpg


Finished product.
20180316_234400.jpg





So is this normal with a new filter system? Or something severely wrong?
 

Rcko

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I am not a water expert by any means; however, the TDS of the tap and TDS level before the water goes into the membrane should be relatively the same. And of course membrane and deionizing filter will reduce the TDS to near 0.
 

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there are good videos from SpectraPure on youtube they walk you through some of their nice setups. I have my TDS meter before and after my DI. If you have additional sensors I believe before and after the RO mem would be best. do you really need to know what the tap water is?
 

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Wait until you make between 5-10 gallons of water then test. New filters will have stuff from manufacturing in them that is why it says to throw away first bit of water.
 
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NinnJinn

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there are good videos from SpectraPure on youtube they walk you through some of their nice setups. I have my TDS meter before and after my DI. If you have additional sensors I believe before and after the RO mem would be best. do you really need to know what the tap water is?


Not that I'm aware of. It was just what I saw in a couple of videos that I watched where they placed at the sensors. But I like your idea better
 
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NinnJinn

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Wait until you make between 5-10 gallons of water then test. New filters will have stuff from manufacturing in them that is why it says to throw away first bit of water.

don't recall reading or hearing about throwing away r o d i water. But was going to because I have some d i substrate in my Barrel
 

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NinnJinn

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Idoc

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Also, if thou don't pack in your DI Resin tightly, channels will form through it and water going through thise channels will not be filtered, therefore also giving low TDS readings on the output. I just changed my DI resin this week... only had to flush the system a few minutes and my final TDS went to zero.
 
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NinnJinn

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Also, if thou don't pack in your DI Resin tightly, channels will form through it and water going through thise channels will not be filtered, therefore also giving low TDS readings on the output. I just changed my DI resin this week... only had to flush the system a few minutes and my final TDS went to zero.

I did not know that I needed to do that. I just dumped it in.

20180317_011756.jpg
 

GoVols

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I did not know that I needed to do that. I just dumped it in.

20180317_011756.jpg
Yeah,
You need a DI resin cartridge like @CJS80 posted.
I'd call BRS to be sure their generic and fits your canister.
 

Steve Jewell

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Yeah, I would not use any of the water you produced. Throw it all out. Also your resin should have come in cartridges. If you still have them, you can use them. They are the same size as your filters if you have those same cannisters for your first stages. Be careful handling the resin. I'm not a pro by any means, but the instructions I read was to use gloves and eye care. As far as your numbers pre membrane, do you really need this? I agree with everyone on when you start your system up there is particles in the carbon filter that get released. That's probably why your number is elevated.
I have mine running to a faucet and storage tank for our use, then running to the resin for aquarium. My pre DI # is 3. Post is 0.
I would recommend you running your monitor after your membrane before your DI and after DI. This way you see pre filter, post membrane, and post DI.
 

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I did not know that I needed to do that. I just dumped it in.

20180317_011756.jpg

Yes, there is a cartridge that the DI resin is actually placed into. You can find this cartridge on the BRS website. As you fill the cartridge with the resin, keep aggressively tapping the cartridge down on the table to keep the resin filling in "open" space. Then when the cartridge is full, take a small glass (or anything flat that will fit into the cartridge hole) and pack the resin in further. Then, you must clear a little out around the edges of the opening because the cartridge has a small circular (donut like) sponge that goes in the top and pushes into this space. Make sure you don't have any resin in the threads on the cartridge or the screw-on top...clear this off with a small brush. Then screw on the top! This will keep channels from developing and all water will be forced through the resin. Your current setup is allowing most of your water to bypass the resin because too many gaps! The BRS website has videos on how to replace the resin...watch one and it will show you step by step like I listed above (but with pictures so its easier to understand). Good luck!
 
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NinnJinn

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Yes, there is a cartridge that the DI resin is actually placed into. You can find this cartridge on the BRS website. As you fill the cartridge with the resin, keep aggressively tapping the cartridge down on the table to keep the resin filling in "open" space. Then when the cartridge is full, take a small glass (or anything flat that will fit into the cartridge hole) and pack the resin in further. Then, you must clear a little out around the edges of the opening because the cartridge has a small circular (donut like) sponge that goes in the top and pushes into this space. Make sure you don't have any resin in the threads on the cartridge or the screw-on top...clear this off with a small brush. Then screw on the top! This will keep channels from developing and all water will be forced through the resin. Your current setup is allowing most of your water to bypass the resin because too many gaps! The BRS website has videos on how to replace the resin...watch one and it will show you step by step like I listed above (but with pictures so its easier to understand). Good luck!


Thank you. I have one in my shopping cart. Now I need to start asking questions about what chemicals I should get that way I kept one instead of multiple small packages throughout the week.
 

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