Rookie inquiry: RO/DI unit placement for a simple water mixing station

[Ross Petersen]

Hi there,

I'm putting up an RO/DI unit at my school (likely a Spectrapure 4-stage with built-in TDS, manual flush, pressure gauge, etc.). Logistically, I don't have the cash or space (yet) to build a full-on water station (with a large pump, quality valves, plumbing, vertical Norwesco containers, etc.). I also likely can't use the adjacent washroom (only 10 feet away) as a holding place for the RO/DI unit due to public traffic. Thus, I'm considering a short term solution of two 32 gallon brutes on wheels, with the RO/DI unit in my classroom behind my desk affixed to the wall. I'm thinking I could use a booster pump (Aqua Fx perhaps) to send a 1/4'' RO line into my classroom from the bathroom, with a waste line heading back and plumbed into the drainpipe under the sink.

Need your insights on this, big picture and micro-details:

1. Is it ok to place the RO/DI unit in a room that is separate from the water source/sink (~10 feet away + wall)? Pros and cons?

2. Is there an optimal height to install an RO/DI unit on the wall to mitigate problems? 4-5 feet it appears from other forums.

3. Best booster pump for this particular job? The Aquatic Life has great reviews but would require me to change up the lines in the Spectrapure unit I'm told. The Aqua Fx would not require this I gather. Either way, should be ~ simple to plumb in.

4. What sort of added features would enhance this setup? In-line ball valves in the classroom for quick turn off, for example? (Obviously mechanical and optical devices to prevent floods).

5. To mix saltwater, I'm looking at a ~quality DC pump that could serve as a backup to my Ecotech Vectra S2 primary display tank pump (1'' input, 0.75' output). The Jebao DCP 5000 seems about right. This is a pretty heavy-duty pump advertised at 855-1320 GPH. While perhaps a good backup pump, I'm wondering if 855 gph is overkill to add water to my display tank (peninsula, 100 gallons, 49x22x23 with a decent-sized sump) and for mixing saltwater in a 32-gallon tank?

6. Also wondering if a quick-swap of the two DC pumps is possible because the Vectra S2 requires some gluing and has some ~negative reports of sanding required on one of the adapters.

Thanks all for any insights - much appreciate this community forum.
Cheers

 

[GoVols]

Bump!!

 

[James77]

Bump!!

Hi there,

I'm putting up an RO/DI unit at my school (likely a Spectrapure 4-stage with built-in TDS, manual flush, pressure gauge, etc.). Logistically, I don't have the cash or space (yet) to build a full-on water station (with a large pump, quality valves, plumbing, vertical Norwesco containers, etc.). I also likely can't use the adjacent washroom (only 10 feet away) as a holding place for the RO/DI unit due to public traffic. Thus, I'm considering a short term solution of two 32 gallon brutes on wheels, with the RO/DI unit in my classroom behind my desk affixed to the wall. I'm thinking I could use a booster pump (Aqua Fx perhaps) to send a 1/4'' RO line into my classroom from the bathroom, with a waste line heading back and plumbed into the drainpipe under the sink.

Need your insights on this, big picture and micro-details:

1. Is it ok to place the RO/DI unit in a room that is separate from the water source/sink (~10 feet away + wall)? Pros and cons?

2. Is there an optimal height to install an RO/DI unit on the wall to mitigate problems? 4-5 feet it appears from other forums.

3. Best booster pump for this particular job? The Aquatic Life has great reviews but would require me to change up the lines in the Spectrapure unit I'm told. The Aqua Fx would not require this I gather. Either way, should be ~ simple to plumb in.

4. What sort of added features would enhance this setup? In-line ball valves in the classroom for quick turn off, for example? (Obviously mechanical and optical devices to prevent floods).

5. To mix saltwater, I'm looking at a ~quality DC pump that could serve as a backup to my Ecotech Vectra S2 primary display tank pump (1'' input, 0.75' output). The Jebao DCP 5000 seems about right. This is a pretty heavy-duty pump advertised at 855-1320 GPH. While perhaps a good backup pump, I'm wondering if 855 gph is overkill to add water to my display tank (peninsula, 100 gallons, 49x22x23 with a decent-sized sump) and for mixing saltwater in a 32-gallon tank?

6. Also wondering if a quick-swap of the two DC pumps is possible because the Vectra S2 requires some gluing and has some ~negative reports of sanding required on one of the adapters.

Thanks all for any insights - much appreciate this community forum.
Cheers

How far a run would it be, would you even need a booster pump?

I have not heard of an optimal RODI height, at least as far as how it works. Ideally you want it easily accessible and at a good working height for filter changes. Unlike mine, which is 7 feet up above a shelf to save space. Lots of fun changing those filters out.

It is fine to run RODI tubing 10 plus feet. Ideally I would have the drain as short as possible. I routinely filter my water change water 15-16 feet away and there is zero impact on production.

I use a sicce 4.0 for my mixing and water changes, it is rated at ~900 gph. I would call it just right for both mixing and pumping. To pump out a 32 gallon brute only takes a couple minutes, any faster it could disturb sand.

I personally wouldn't go to crazy with sensors and what not. A quality float valve will trigger the auto shut off in the filter. I would replace that auto shut off every year, they are cheap enough. A float valve is all I have ever used to fill barrels, and I have not had one fail on me in 15+ years. If you wanted added security, you could do a solenoid shut off on a timer. Run the timer about an hour longer than you figure it would take to fill the barrel this way water shuts off should the float fail.

Smart ATO RODI Solenoid

AutoAqua auto top off units now have the ability to hook directly up to a RODI solenoid to replace the pump they are equipped with out of the box. If you have upgraded to a larger system, or just simply don't have the room for an ATO storage container this may be the option for you. Replacing...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[Bugsy_Barboza]

I believe my brs said it can pump up to 33 feet laterally. I use a jebao with a water hose (regular from Lowes) to pump from my mixing can maybe 20 feet to my tank. my rodi fresh water sit right above my mixing can. Put a ball valve and bulk head in bottom of the upper can and drain straight into mixing can and its on wheels I can roll it out the way to put my auto reserver (10 gal brute) under it to fill it up.

So I have a jebao 8000 I believe the fittings it comes with are various sizes and I just used the one that fit a water hose. And I never run mine on full strength maybe half but when I'm not pumping to my tank it is mixing the water in the can. I had a float switch close to the top of my freshwater can so it will shut off and then I turn off water supply later on when I notice it has stopped running. My rodi is in line is probably 20 feet with a 5 foot elevation never had any issues but I do have great water pressure. (in the 80s)

 

[Ross Petersen]

Thanks, guys. Much appreciated. Sounds like having the RODI unit ~10-15 feet away from the tap is not big deal from a pressure standpoint. There will be a slight loss in pressure surely, and the drain line running back is something to monitor. The downside of having the RO unit under the sink and having to pump the purified water ~10-15 feet would be some back pressure on the RO membrane. I don't think these are big issues with sufficient tap water pressure.

Random salt mixing question: if I mix a 32-gallon batch, and only use 10 gallons weekly for water changes, do I have to keep the pump circulating 24/7 or can I just re-mix the salt water for several hours/a day before the actual change? (Ideally I would 24/7 but some space/safety limitations here with my 32 gallon brute in a classroom).

 

[Bugsy_Barboza]

Thanks, guys. Much appreciated. Sounds like having the RODI unit ~10-15 feet away from the tap is not big deal from a pressure standpoint. There will be a slight loss in pressure surely, and the drain line running back is something to monitor. The downside of having the RO unit under the sink and having to pump the purified water ~10-15 feet would be some back pressure on the RO membrane. I don't think these are big issues with sufficient tap water pressure.

Random salt mixing question: if I mix a 32-gallon batch, and only use 10 gallons weekly for water changes, do I have to keep the pump circulating 24/7 or can I just re-mix the salt water for several hours/a day before the actual change? (Ideally I would 24/7 but some space/safety limitations here with my 32 gallon brute in a classroom).

I keep mine circulating and covered. I like to see the surface moving so I know the water is oxygenated. Just so the water stays Good. I’m not 100% sure but stagnant water isn’t good to me sitting for a week. So that’s my personal preference brs did videos on storing rodi water and fresh mixed salt water. I’d look there for the true answer.

 

[James77]

Thanks, guys. Much appreciated. Sounds like having the RODI unit ~10-15 feet away from the tap is not big deal from a pressure standpoint. There will be a slight loss in pressure surely, and the drain line running back is something to monitor. The downside of having the RO unit under the sink and having to pump the purified water ~10-15 feet would be some back pressure on the RO membrane. I don't think these are big issues with sufficient tap water pressure.

Random salt mixing question: if I mix a 32-gallon batch, and only use 10 gallons weekly for water changes, do I have to keep the pump circulating 24/7 or can I just re-mix the salt water for several hours/a day before the actual change? (Ideally I would 24/7 but some space/safety limitations here with my 32 gallon brute in a classroom).

Reduced pressure would be more a concern for the waste water line, since that has about 4x as much flow going through it. Mine is like 6 or 7 feet.

Mix the new saltwater initially for a day. Ideally use within several days. 3 weeks won't be that bad, just keep a small power head in there. Salt mixes with added vitamins may degrade. I use instant ocean.

BulkReefSupply has a video on it.

 

[jda]

When filling a tank, I have used 100 feet of tube to go from the RO unit, across the house and up. Pressure was fine... it still made about 100 gallons per day.

I have my unit in the basement, next to a drain in case it cracks or something - never has, but it probably would have if I had it in a more expensive spot.

 

[Ross Petersen]

When filling a tank, I have used 100 feet of tube to go from the RO unit, across the house and up. Pressure was fine... it still made about 100 gallons per day.

I have my unit in the basement, next to a drain in case it cracks or something - never has, but it probably would have if I had it in a more expensive spot.

Haha, you sound like a friend of mine. Murphy's Law!

I think that's an important consideration you've made about unit placement.

What I'm hearing from all is that the waste-water line, given TDS build-up and the higher volume of water, is prudent to monitor and plumb in such a way that minimizes travel and any vertical displacements.

 

[James77]

Haha, you sound like a friend of mine. Murphy's Law!

I think that's an important consideration you've made about unit placement.

What I'm hearing from all is that the waste-water line, given TDS build-up and the higher volume of water, is prudent to monitor and plumb in such a way that minimizes travel and any vertical displacements.

The less length and height on the waste line the better. I wouldn't worry about it too much when talking just several feet. But if you were to make one line (waste vs product) line longer, make it the product line. TDS is not what affects it, it is just the restriction of passing through small line over long distances.

On Murphys Law....it is real LOL.