Router table trouble (size of table and positioning or router base)

[Reef-junky]

You would need to mount that table somehow to a table saw with extensions, so you could run the pieces between the table saw fence and the router. Totally incorrect and dangerous for sure.

Not saying to use that table just giving an idea as to how the tables are made. Of course you don’t want a table that can move. Also if you look that table has holes so it can be screwed down to a work bench or table.

 

[MikeyLikesit]

Hi Mitch,
I own a cabinet shop here in Nashville. I Know a lot about tools.
First, what tools do you have, now?

I have a ton of tools, but I also build cabinetry for a living... so “what I would do” is not feasible for most people

Track saw
Clamp acrylic to table with some of it overhanging
Buzz it down with router
Done.

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

Track saw
Clamp acrylic to table with some of it overhanging
Buzz it down with router
Done.

This would not actually work.

I am not a professional cabinet maker but do enjoy doing complex centering and mortise and tennon work

Anyways... making waterproof containers from acrylic..without resulting to caulking the whole thing with weld on requires a LOT of precision.

You have to batch cut and batch route everything. If you are 0.01mm of off you will be hating life when it comes time to bond the top and bottom.... because there will be a gap that won't seal.

So you set your fence on your table saw, make all the cuts, then set the "offset" fence on the router and then route all the cut edges, then move the fence a 1/32" towards the router, then route all the factory edges off.

Meaning you dont cut the side panels, build your sump then go back and cut the baffles. You adjust the fences once and then cut and face everything.

 

[MikeyLikesit]

My festool track saw and router are dead on.

If the tolerance for acrylic is so tight, I’d use my panel saw I guess.

The only thing I really use the table saw for is dados.
The idea of “moving” or “sliding” acrylic across a table and scratching it doesn’t seem nice to me.. which is why I suggested track saw. Or panel (doubtful anyone has that though)

I thought acrylic scratches easily???

 

[Ilive4metal]

Lapin.. since you are here...

You ever get bubbles on the edges of a joint from colder temps? 1" thick stock, 28 gauge pins, solvent from james @ envision. He said 30 second soak time but I got a lot of solvent squeeze out. So much that I think thr solvent "washed" away the fillet.

Shop is probably 55-60 degrees. The solvent has acetic acid in it to slow it down a bit but still, seems like it should be evaporating faster? Or melting the acrylic more?

My first go with 1" btw.

Uh uh, not here you start your own thread. Lol hey Brian I tried calling you while at THD earlier and left a message. So to bring you up to date I have been corresponding with turboaquatics directly and he has tried like heck to break it down for me and I have learned a lot. However the guy is super busy and can only do so much. Thus far I have purchased a bosch 2&1/4 HP router with a fixed and plunge base and ordered two Bosch under table mount bases which will be here tomorrow. Today at Home Depot I picked up some 2x4 2x6 and 2 sheets of 3/4” mdf and a crap load of liquid nails. Not sure if I’m gonna use it all if any with this build but it was good prices and I like wood so ‍ the liquid nails I definitely feel like there is maybe a better product to use to bind the mdf together if not then I’m ready to go there. I have to order the laminate topping and need suggestions on what to glue that down with as well. Plan on ordering it tomorrow and I am thinking maybe 4x4 legs but there is some stuff I need to discuss with you in order to figure out what’s gonna be my best approach here. Other than that I’m pretty much clueless and could use your help. Don’t go out of your way but if you do have some time give me a call tomorrow and we can chat a bit. I really appreciate everyone’s help. I know with thanksgiving coming up everyone is busy so no rush but I’m itching to build something so don’t wait too long

Hey thanks again guys

Mitch

 

[oreo54]

side note.. The few err "commercial" router tables I've used alway had a "plate" like this:

Why. I don't know. Maybe just to use you router..
Top surface was usually melamine..and except for that.. pretty much on the line of this but bigger..

DIY Router table » imsolidstate

Most of the work I used it for was used "fenceless so no comments on a fence atm..

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

No problem. I'll give you a call tomorrow. I'm left coast time.
Cheers

Oh yeah... a panel saw would be dope!! And all acrylic comes paper masked so no scratching until the fish are in.

 

[MikeyLikesit]

No problem. I'll give you a call tomorrow. I'm left coast time.
Cheers

Oh yeah... a panel saw would be dope!! And all acrylic comes paper masked so no scratching until the fish are in.

nice!! That’s pretty handy.

 

[MikeyLikesit]

Uh uh, not here you start your own thread. Lol hey Brian I tried calling you while at THD earlier and left a message. So to bring you up to date I have been corresponding with turboaquatics directly and he has tried like heck to break it down for me and I have learned a lot. However the guy is super busy and can only do so much. Thus far I have purchased a bosch 2&1/4 HP router with a fixed and plunge base and ordered two Bosch under table mount bases which will be here tomorrow. Today at Home Depot I picked up some 2x4 2x6 and 2 sheets of 3/4” mdf and a crap load of liquid nails. Not sure if I’m gonna use it all if any with this build but it was good prices and I like wood so ‍♂ the liquid nails I definitely feel like there is maybe a better product to use to bind the mdf together if not then I’m ready to go there. I have to order the laminate topping and need suggestions on what to glue that down with as well. Plan on ordering it tomorrow and I am thinking maybe 4x4 legs but there is some stuff I need to discuss with you in order to figure out what’s gonna be my best approach here. Other than that I’m pretty much clueless and could use your help. Don’t go out of your way but if you do have some time give me a call tomorrow and we can chat a bit. I really appreciate everyone’s help. I know with thanksgiving coming up everyone is busy so no rush but I’m itching to build something so don’t wait too long

Hey thanks again guys

Mitch

I would recommend getting 1” melamine. It has factory smooth finish on it already.
My drill press table is made out of it, my CNC offload table is made out of it. Etc.

Good stuff.

 

[Ilive4metal]

I would recommend getting 1” melamine. It has factory smooth finish on it already.
My drill press table is made out of it, my CNC offload table is made out of it. Etc.

Good stuff.

Would recommend getting melamine to make the table top out of? Mdf is proven to be a suitable material to make this type of table out of and I can get it extremely cheap $15 a sheet. I’m actually considering going back and picking up another sheet for jig/template making. Anyone care to comment and let me know if this would be okay or is 3/4” too thick for a template? Also I’m ready to start building my frame so some advice on where and best way too place these two bases would be greatly appreciated. Assuming I’m going to cut a square or circle out of the bottom mdf board glue them together and then mount the base and drill a hole for the bit to pass through in the top mdf board. The base has a long hex key I can adjust the bit depth from the top should I drill a small hole there as well?

 

[MikeyLikesit]

Would recommend getting melamine to make the table top out of? Mdf is proven to be a suitable material to make this type of table out of and I can get it extremely cheap $15 a sheet. I’m actually considering going back and picking up another sheet for jig/template making. Anyone care to comment and let me know if this would be okay or is 3/4” too thick for a template? Also I’m ready to start building my frame so some advice on where and best way too place these two bases would be greatly appreciated. Assuming I’m going to cut a square or circle out of the bottom mdf board glue them together and then mount the base and drill a hole for the bit to pass through in the top mdf board. The base has a long hex key I can adjust the bit depth from the top should I drill a small hole there as well?

are you putting laminate topping on the MDF? That’s why I suggested 1” thick melamine instead of going to trouble of glueing up.

doesn’t matter what you use. 1” melamine is much flatter than MDF though. All my assembly tables are melamine.

 

[Reef-junky]

side note.. The few err "commercial" router tables I've used alway had a "plate" like this:

Why. I don't know. Maybe just to use you router..
Top surface was usually melamine..and except for that.. pretty much on the line of this but bigger..

DIY Router table » imsolidstate

Most of the work I used it for was used "fenceless so no comments on a fence atm..

Very clean