Rowaphos and Phosphate

czoolander

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I have had undetectable Phosphate 0.00 since September but have had some Hair Algea in my tank that entire time

I added 2 tablespoons of ROWAPHOS last night to my reactor I just installed. Is this a correct amount as a small dose to watch and see ? Since I have no way to measure phosphate I was thinking I would go slow .

I put out a request the other day to get reef advice and got crickets haha maybe today ill get some advice
 
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Dan_P

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I have had undetectable Phosphate 0.00 since September but have had some Hair Algea in my tank that entire time

I added 2 tablespoons of ROWAPHOS last night to my reactor I just installed. Is this a correct amount as a small dose to watch and see ? Since I have no way to measure phosphate I was thinking I would go slow .

I put out a request the other day to get reef advice and got crickets haha maybe today ill get some advice
A couple thoughts.

I wouldn’t try to deplete PO4 with GFO until I bought a PO4 test kit and determined if the PO4 was high.

Controlling algae growth by depleting PO4 is probably not going to work. Algae needs to controlled by harvesting or the application of herbivores, like a snail.
 

muzikalmatt

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A couple thoughts.

I wouldn’t try to deplete PO4 with GFO until I bought a PO4 test kit and determined if the PO4 was high.

Controlling algae growth by depleting PO4 is probably not going to work. Algae needs to controlled by harvesting or the application of herbivores, like a snail.
Agreed. I was just about to respond that I wouldn't recommend using GFO if you don't have measurable phosphates. It's correct that since you have algae in the tank, you have phosphates, but until you can measure them you're playing a dangerous game by using GFO.

As @Dan_P said, you should be able to manually remove enough of the algae until you can start measuring phosphates.
 
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czoolander

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Agreed. I was just about to respond that I wouldn't recommend using GFO if you don't have measurable phosphates. It's correct that since you have algae in the tank, you have phosphates, but until you can measure them you're playing a dangerous game by using GFO.

As @Dan_P said, you should be able to manually remove enough of the algae until you can start measuring phosphates.
So I have had this GHA in my tank since September . The snails do nothing to it . And I have been unable to pull it or brush it . This particular round of GHA is growing only in holes. crevices and cracks of the rocks . I cant get to it .

Rabbitfish and Tomini tang wont touch it.
Hermits and snails wont touch it

I would have rather done this the natural way but I have heard that since I have GHA in my tank although my phosphate is undetectable the GHA is consuming it all so it exists in my tank

How to proceed ?

@Dan_P @muzikalmatt
 

ScottB

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So I have had this GHA in my tank since September . The snails do nothing to it . And I have been unable to pull it or brush it . This particular round of GHA is growing only in holes. crevices and cracks of the rocks . I cant get to it .

Rabbitfish and Tomini tang wont touch it.
Hermits and snails wont touch it

I would have rather done this the natural way but I have heard that since I have GHA in my tank although my phosphate is undetectable the GHA is consuming it all so it exists in my tank

How to proceed ?

@Dan_P @muzikalmatt
Agree with others that removing PO4 without measuring it is not a great idea.

If you only have soft corals, you could run some Vibrant or AlgaeFix (both are algaecides).

If the tank is <1 year old, I would just let it pass through the uglies -- especially with a dead rock start.
 
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muzikalmatt

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Any chance you can remove the rock from the tank to work on it outside of the tank? If not, I know some people have drained their tank down and then treated the GHA directly with peroxide before refilling the tank, but unless it's really out of the control I'm not sure I'd go that route either.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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So I have had this GHA in my tank since September . The snails do nothing to it . And I have been unable to pull it or brush it . This particular round of GHA is growing only in holes. crevices and cracks of the rocks . I cant get to it .

Rabbitfish and Tomini tang wont touch it.
Hermits and snails wont touch it

I would have rather done this the natural way but I have heard that since I have GHA in my tank although my phosphate is undetectable the GHA is consuming it all so it exists in my tank

How to proceed ?

@Dan_P @muzikalmatt

GFO is not a magic way to eliminate algae. It will reduce phosphate, but unless you know it is high, lowering it can do more harm than good.

The algae indicates there likely is adequate phosphate. Lower it and it may become inadequate for other creatures such as corals.
 
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czoolander

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Agree with others that removing PO4 without measuring it is not a great idea.

If you only have soft corals, you could run some Vibrant or AlgaeFix (both are algaecides).

If the tank is <1 year old, I would just let it pass through the uglies -- especially with a dead rock start.
I know its not a great idea but its the best idea out there so far haha kind of in a not so great spot

I have only soft corals right now and I have been dosing vibrant since September I have to disagree on it being an algaecide. It has had zero effect on this Algea and my chaeto in the sump is doing just fine as well

Tank is 2 years and 2 months and I have had some ugly stages come and go . I did have GHA before and dosed NOPOX had success with that but the GHA came right back a few months later once dosing stopped

I was hoping that running GFO would keep the phosphate at a detectable level. Once this rowaphos starves out the algea and I can get readings I am assuming once the algea dies it will release phosphate back in the system and then the GFO will eat that up ? win win ?? hahaha so is my plan
 
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czoolander

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GFO is not a magic way to eliminate algae. It will reduce phosphate, but unless you know it is high, lowering it can do more harm than good.

The algae indicates there likely is adequate phosphate. Lower it and it may become inadequate for other creatures such as corals.
When you say it can do harm are you referring to Dinos ?

I am only running 2 tablespoons of GFO in a 139 gallon system right now I am going very slow and will moniter the corals and algae visually aside from my testing with my hanna kits.

I just don't have a better plan really then dosing GFO for this particular brand of hair algea vibrant has no effect on it. Chaeto is not out competing it . I cant pull it or scrape it . Its in cracks and holes of the rocks

I am out of ideas.........
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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When you say it can do harm are you referring to Dinos ?

I am only running 2 tablespoons of GFO in a 139 gallon system right now I am going very slow and will moniter the corals and algae visually aside from my testing with my hanna kits.

I just don't have a better plan really then dosing GFO for this particular brand of hair algea vibrant has no effect on it. Chaeto is not out competing it . I cant pull it or scrape it . Its in cracks and holes of the rocks

I am out of ideas.........

Starving corals and potential for dinos, yes.

How are you measuring phosphate? if it is less than 0.01 ppm, both are risks despite the algae. If the rocks have bound phosphate, the algae may get it from there (as it slowly desorbs) rather than from the bulk water.

Algae on glass or plastic is different. It must get phosphate from the bulk water.
 
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czoolander

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Starving corals and potential for dinos, yes.
If dosed properly I thought Rowas will leave detectable but low phosphate in the system .03 or higher depending on dose.

WIth the die off hopefully of algea will this not also release phosphate back in the system ? Plus I am only running 2 tablespoons in a 139 gallons which I believe is very low dosage . I was planning on slowly increasing over time to let the system adjust and hopefully during that time start to register readings of phosphate on my hanna

Would you say chances of stripping the system of phosphate at 50% or higher or under 30% chances
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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If dosed properly I thought Rowas will leave detectable but low phosphate in the system .03 or higher depending on dose.

WIth the die off hopefully of algea will this not also release phosphate back in the system ? Plus I am only running 2 tablespoons in a 139 gallons which I believe is very low dosage . I was planning on slowly increasing over time to let the system adjust and hopefully during that time start to register readings of phosphate on my hanna

Would you say chances of stripping the system of phosphate at 50% or higher or under 30% chances

That could be said of any phosphate binder (it is not a special attribute of GFO or of the particular brand Rowaphos). It will bind some no matter what the starting level is, so it does not magically stop binding at 0.03 ppm.

FWIW, no binder can leave 0.03 ppm phosphate if the level is already below that.

I would not use any binder if I could not easily detect more than 0.03 ppm.
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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Would it be possible to use GFO to bottom out PO4 and then at the same time dose Po4 to still always have po4 in the tank? I mean like feed corals with po4

Not sure why one would add and remove it at the same time. Sort of like trying to go a steady speed in a car by applying the brake and accelerator at the same time. Most people can accomplish phosphate stability with one or the other, not needing both.
 

chipchipmofo

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Not sure why one would add and remove it at the same time. Sort of like trying to go a steady speed in a car by applying the brake and accelerator at the same time. Most people can accomplish phosphate stability with one or the other, not needing both.
I understand.. Thought that theres some ppl supplementing/dosing PO4 and still have some sort of absorbtion (Chaeto) or whatever.

Well like you said, for algae on rocks its best to have animals/creatures eating that stuff. Its better to have some po4 (even if its 0.1) instead of bottoming it out.
 
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czoolander

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Open to all ideas

what animals / creatures would you suggest ?

My Foxface rabbitfish , Tomini tang , cerith , turbo and trochus snails don't touch it . I haven't seen my hermit crabs touch it either .

Again I have mentioned a few times in previous posts it cant be scraped as its only growing in crevices and holes of the rock. Near impossible to pull and scraping with a brush is useless.

Is there a tool that would be good and reefsafe for getting in these crevices ? Maybe like dentist equipment haha ?
 
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czoolander

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Starving corals and potential for dinos, yes.

How are you measuring phosphate? if it is less than 0.01 ppm, both are risks despite the algae. If the rocks have bound phosphate, the algae may get it from there (as it slowly desorbs) rather than from the bulk water.

Algae on glass or plastic is different. It must get phosphate from the bulk water.
I have been measuring with my hanna digital . Reading 0.00 since September on every test

Rocks are over 2 years old now and had decent coverage of coralline before this Brown / Green covering and Hair algea

I have been noticing less algea on the glass to scrape recently . Not sure if this is a good or bad sign or if it has no relation to the algea on the rocks at all?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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I have been measuring with my hanna digital . Reading 0.00 since September on every test

Rocks are over 2 years old now and had decent coverage of coralline before this Brown / Green covering and Hair algea

I have been noticing less algea on the glass to scrape recently . Not sure if this is a good or bad sign or if it has no relation to the algea on the rocks at all?

Which Hanna?
 
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