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Could he do two containers of the same size and do a passive drain pipe, drill the holes low enough to add a overflow box In the future?
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Could he do two containers of the same size and do a passive drain pipe, drill the holes low enough to add a overflow box In the future?
so this stems from me not wanting to drill the tank. so if I use a small powerhead attached to the cap on the pvc to pump to the same size stock tank underneath, and duplicate that to return to the upper, it would be controlled by starting water level and height of the overflow in the tank. so if one pump quits the other can only pump until the pvc pipe runs dry. yes? no? maybe?What happens if the pump quits? Is there redundancy?
so this stems from me not wanting to drill the tank. so if I use a small powerhead attached to the cap on the pvc to pump to the same size stock tank underneath, and duplicate that to return to the upper, it would be controlled by starting water level and height of the overflow in the tank. so if one pump quits the other can only pump until the pvc pipe runs dry. yes? no? maybe?
pump could possibly burn out. $20/$30 non issue. here's something I don't know about a pump. does the water only go through the intake? meaning the pump could be mounted underneath the pvc, so if the pvc ran dry would the pump still burn out?So if I understand your description correctly then your tank won't overflow with this approach, but the pump would die (or have excessive stress) if it runs dry for any length of time. Additionally, getting the pumps to synchronize the water in versus water out can be a challenge.
pump could possibly burn out. $20/$30 non issue. here's something I don't know about a pump. does the water only go through the intake? meaning the pump could be mounted underneath the pvc, so if the pvc ran dry would the pump still burn out?
synchronizing tuned in with gate vales.
I'll have to research all of that. I don't use level security sensors, guessing that's like something in an ATO or a RODI storage container? and I don't need to worry about the sump pump overflowing the top tank if I have the pump mounted near the top water level of the it's tank. don't think of the lower tub as a true sump with divided sections.Placing the pump housing below the water line would potentially mitigate some of the overheating, but the pump would still run dry (which would likely stress the pump).
One approach to consider would be to use the AutoAqua smart level security sensor to shut off the return pump to shut off the return pump to keep the main tank from overflowing in conjunction with a siphon. You could add a fitting into the top of the U-bend of the siphon pipe that has a small aqualifter pump attached (or even a small ATO style pump below the water level) to continually remove any air that could get trapped in the bend (and thereby improving the functioning of the siphon).
Wow got carried away typing sorry thought it may give someone some ideas Very simple setup. Minimal equipment layout.Hi. I've been using Laguna rigid pond liners for tanks, sumps and frag systems in one form or another over the years. Sturdy, tough and most importantly cheap. I have my tanks in my bedroom so went this route for added security and fish happiness. 1000 ltr 18 inch deep liner has a big surface area compared to equivalent glass tank. Loads of aquascape options. Fish are happier. Only problem is you can't see anything with proper surface agitation if anything takes a turn for the worse you can often miss it. Here's my latest setup which is similar. Forgive the mess. I'm doing a three tank move and sort out. Two inch bulkhead fittings in bottom of tub, running to a glass sump sitting in a rub tub incase of a leak . DC return pump for adjustability and quietness. Can run the output valve fully open with pump on 2500 lph with tuneable overflow and only hear the fan on my viparspectra led. Decided to go through bottom as more secure. Avoids bowing and poor seal. Can remove pipes for water dump, easy cleaning. just an idea. Will never overflow and if return pump fails sump will hold water. Added bonus with rub tub is that I can slide out sump with setup still running if I wished for cleaning. Might place on runners and ply for easier maint. Slide it out for cleaning and vacuuming. pretty bullet proof setup. Could even run two returns.
I like your setup! If I had to do it over again, I’d definitely go bottom, or make an overflow box out of plexi and silicone (where I have my drain). I feel your pain with not being able to view the tank if the pumps are towards the surface. I’m still able to view mine pretty easily and I can always turn my Wavemaker to feed mode.Hi. I've been using Laguna rigid pond liners for tanks, sumps and frag systems in one form or another over the years. Sturdy, tough and most importantly cheap. I have my tanks in my bedroom so went this route for added security and fish happiness. 1000 ltr 18 inch deep liner has a big surface area compared to equivalent glass tank. Loads of aquascape options. Fish are happier. Only problem is you can't see anything with proper surface agitation if anything takes a turn for the worse you can often miss it. Here's my latest setup which is similar. Forgive the mess. I'm doing a three tank move and sort out. Two inch bulkhead fittings in bottom of tub, running to a glass sump sitting in a rub tub incase of a leak . DC return pump for adjustability and quietness. Can run the output valve fully open with pump on 2500 lph with tuneable overflow and only hear the fan on my viparspectra led. Decided to go through bottom as more secure. Avoids bowing and poor seal. Can remove pipes for water dump, easy cleaning. just an idea. Will never overflow and if return pump fails sump will hold water. Added bonus with rub tub is that I can slide out sump with setup still running if I wished for cleaning. Might place on runners and ply for easier maint. Slide it out for cleaning and vacuuming. pretty bullet proof setup. Could even run two returns.