Rubble, Rock or NOTHING in the Sump?

Do you prefer rubble rock, larger rocks or no rock in your sump and why?

  • Rubble

    Votes: 138 36.1%
  • Larger Rock

    Votes: 105 27.5%
  • Nothing

    Votes: 93 24.3%
  • Other (please explain)

    Votes: 46 12.0%

  • Total voters
    382

revhtree

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Today let's talk about rock in your sump and more specifically what you prefer in your sump when it comes to ROCK! I believe there are pros and cons to either choosing large rock pieces, rubble rock or even no rock at all! WHAT?! The idea of having more "rock" in your sump is that the more rock you have the more surface area you have for beneficial bacteria to thrive and filter your water more efficiently. I would like to hear from you today!

1. Do you prefer rubble rock, larger rocks or no rock in your sump and why?

2. Have you noticed a difference in the stability of your tank with the addition of more rock in your sump?


image via @Be102
31366E88-3C37-49FE-8D65-37D3F2BD68B4.jpeg
 

rtparty

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I currently have 2 Brightwell ceramic plates in mine but not sure they really add much. Sponges love to grow on them but I don't care for sponges in my tanks. They become a nuisance and choke out corals.

I don't think adding rubble is worth it unless you specifically want an area for detritus to collect for pods.
 

Quietman

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I have a couple liters of Pond Matrix in mesh bags (came with a bunch of oranges - rinsed it off and used tie wraps to make a nice little 'sock' that I shaped to fit where I can). I suppose that's close to rubble in concept.

Edit: I got this idea on mesh bags with ties from YouTuber Cyberaquarist. He doesn't post very often anymore, but learned a bit and still use some of his techniques.
 
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wolfthefallen

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For my sump I have MarinePure Spheres, SeaChem DeNitrate, and SeaChem Pond Matrix in my sump.

This made a huge difference in my tank, but I also don't have rock in my display, so I had to make up surface area. plus it never hurts to have more surface area for more bacteria to grow.
 

LuisPerez711

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I have the Eshopps R300 sump and placed large and rubble rock in the refugium chamber. It makes for a great pod factory.

I can't speak to stability as I started the tank this way but I do like to put rock everywhere it can be placed. I also had rubble pieces in the filter sock chamber before I placed them in my macro refugium tank.
 

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ReefGeezer

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1. Do you prefer rubble rock, larger rocks or no rock in your sump and why?
I voted "nothing". I've tried rubble and larger rocks in the sump. I don't like the sediment build-up, even if it is just inert detritus.

2. Have you noticed a difference in the stability of your tank with the addition of more rock in your sump?

I established a cryptic zone in the sump once, but I don't think it was big enough to matter. I didn't see any difference. I have enough rock in the display and cryptic areas exist on the shaded portions of each rock.
 

Jbell370

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I have a Bashea 48 smart series, currently have 2 8x8x4 blocks in the 1st chamber of the sump, thought of adding more, perhaps as a layer on the bottom then grow cheato in that section of the sump above. Was planning to replace the aqua mesh in the section before the return with bio media, figured it would act as a bubble trap just as well as that material and give the added surface area benefit. A LFS has the first section completely filled with cheato, not sure I want to venture down that road, maybe just a reactor, but then another plug.
 

dbowman5

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i have 4 or 5 smallish rocks in my 'fuge. the 'fuge is 24"x 12" with a depth of 12", this allows for plenty of room for chaeto to float, surface for amphipods, snails, stars, and worms to roam, and some shelter shade for the copepods to swarm in. As I am new to this, I don't know for sure that it is optimal for reef keeping, but i like it.
 

Shooter6

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A mix of all sizes, but in a basket elevated off the bottom, and as much flow as I can get passing through. On my 1200gal + build I've got a 20gal trash can full of rock with 1inch holes cut along the bottom on each side. On top of it I have a tote with holes in the bottom and emergency drains in the side. At the bottom of the tote there's a stack of eggcrate with floss matting sitting on it. In the trash can theres rock filling it to the tote. My drains are 2 inch pvc with up turns, so the water comes out like a fountain. This not only maximizes gas exchange but also the water flowing over and through the rock works like the sea breaking on the rocky shore. I figure there probably som life forms that live in this break zone that won't survive being constantly submerged. So far this setup works amazingly well.
 

Shooter6

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Why not sand in the sump? People say sand has more surface area than live rock, and especially for those who don't want sand in the display.... better yet, a fluidized sand filter in the sump?
fluidized sand filter.jpg
This is something I'm strongly considering, can you elaborate on ? Sand used, and the reactors?
 

willieboy240

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Cryptic zone. I’m a huge fan of it. Plus clean slow area for bio bricks. But it has to be a place with it won’t get too much detritus.
 

lapin

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My sump is pretty bare. Socks take out most of the crud before it gets far. I do have 1 large basket of rocks that has a bunch of sponges. They are cryptic... My sump is under the tank and not lit.
 

srobertb

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I currently have 2 Brightwell ceramic plates in mine but not sure they really add much. Sponges love to grow on them but I don't care for sponges in my tanks. They become a nuisance and choke out corals.

I don't think adding rubble is worth it unless you specifically want an area for detritus to collect for pods.
I have cubes and a block. The block is about 50% melted at this point leaving a super fine sand…which was totally on purpose…DSB for the win! The ceramic porous balls hold their shape indefinitely. I just replaced mine because they were gross. It didn’t do anything to the tank to pull out about 10, 3” balls that had been in for a year so I’m with you I’m not sure that stuff does a lot.
 

Oregon Grown Reef

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I voted other. I've got a mix of larger rocks and rubble. I run my tank with a clarisea sk-5000, so I don't have to worry about detritus, plus I have hermit crabs and peppermint shrimp there too so they eat what doesn't get filtered. Within a week after adding the rock/rubble, things started taking off. There were some other changes at that time, but I believe this to have played a huge role in stability. Plus, you'll never have to worry about cycling a tank if you've got a bunch of extra live rock laying around.
 

Mastering the art of locking and unlocking water pathways: What type of valves do you have on your aquarium plumbing?

  • Ball valves.

    Votes: 44 46.8%
  • Gate valves.

    Votes: 50 53.2%
  • Check valves.

    Votes: 21 22.3%
  • None.

    Votes: 25 26.6%
  • Other.

    Votes: 9 9.6%
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