Rudzbrewski's Journey to the Reef-er xl425

Rudzbrewski

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This thread will be my complete journey from planning, to building, to starting up my first Reef Tank. Being new to R2R I thought it would be too early to start a build thread, but I have been encouraged by other members to start my build thread to document my planning and decision making process all the way through hopefully establishing a successful tank. Up to this point, I have been watching countless hours of videos on Youtube (especially BRS 5 minute guide and 52 weeks of reefing), reading a number of articles, visiting my LFS to discuss plans with them, and of course reading R2R. I feel like I have learned a ton, but still have plenty more to go to successfully own my personalized piece of the ocean.

Background:
I first got the itch to own an aquarium 1.5-2 years ago after learning about the hobby from a friend. Approximately 1 year ago I decided to start with a 38 gallon freshwater aquarium to prove to myself I enjoy the hobby and can stick with the maintenance schedule of a basic setup before making the financial and time commitment to the saltwater world. After learning the basics from this aquarium and taking a vacation to the Caribbean where I snorkeled and scuba dove some amazing reef, I was sold that a Reef Tank was in my future. As a result, the last few months of research commenced.

Vision:
1.) My motivation behind having a Reef Tank is to have a colorful, active focal point in the center of my home. Sleek and visually appealing setup with all of the equipment and cords hidden out of sight.
2.) Having a variety of interesting, beautiful fish that can't be rivaled with my current freshwater aquarium along with a combination of corals that create an aquascape resembling the ocean is my focus versus keeping the most unique, rare, and tough corals around. With that in mind, I plan on having a tank well stocked with fish and mainly "easy to care for" softies/LPS corals.
3.) Lighting will have to be mounted from tank because suspending from ceiling is not an option. Most likely looking to use 2x LED fixtures.
4.) Tank equipment and setup will focus on being user-friendly and convenience (need to be able to go on 1-2 week trips with none to minimal check-ins by individuals with no experience)

Equipment:
This is where I currently am in the planning process. Choosing which components are best to fully design my system prior to starting the actual build process, as well as outlining the steps and timeframe of initial setup.

The following is a list of components I am considering as well as any of my initial thoughts. Any feedback or missing components is greatly appreciated.

Tank: Red Sea Reefer 350 w/ sump (73 gallon display tank / 91 gallon total - 47"x21"x20")
Was also considering the Reefer 250 and XL425, but think the Reefer 350 is a good compromise on size and price

Lighting (x2 LEDs mounted from tank): Undecided
AI Prime 16
AI Hydra 32
Kessil A360WE
Ecotech Radion XR15 (might be out of price range unless I find a deal)

ATO: Tunze Osmolator universal 3155

Return Pump: Sicce Syncra Silent 3.5 multifunction pump (660 GPH)

Skimmer: Reef Octopus Classic 110 Int 4" internal
Red Sea RSK 300 Reefer Internal
Reef Octopus Essence S-130 Internal

Powerheads (x2): Undecided
AI Nero 5
Ecotech Vortech MP10
Ecotech Vortech MP40

Heater (x2 for redundancy): Jaeger True Temp 125W

Controller: Neptune APEX

Media Reactor: BRS GFO & Carbon Reactor w/ SIcce Syncra pump

RODI: BRS 4 stage value plus (75 GPD) + x2 Brute garbage cans
Confirmed with LFS no chloramines in area

Battery Backup: Undecided, depends on other components

Substrate: ~50-80 lbs dry rock + CaribSea live sand

Supplementation: Undecided
Red Sea Mixed Reef Recipe
Kalkwasser

Quarantine Tank: Undecided on setup, but something basic and inexpensive

Initial Stages:
1.) Have electrician wire "Reef Tank" outlet to its own breaker switch
2.) Have electrician add outlet in basement at RODI station
3.) Purchase ~80 pounds of dry rock, RODI system + Brute garbage cans + float switch, heater, and bacteria starter to cure dry rock for weeks/months

I will post some pictures in the near future of the locations I have picked out for my tank and RODI station. I'm looking forward to beginning my journey to the Reef and moving through the planning to build stages with everybody's feedback and help!
 
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Peace River

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It is never too early to start a build thread once you have started thinking about having a tank! By putting your plan out there is gives others a chance to provide feedback, it gives you a chance to further hone your plan, and it gives you something to look back at in a year to see how close (or far) you were to your original plan. Good luck - we're cheering for you!
 
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Rudzbrewski

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As promised, here are the two areas I plan on using for my tank and RODI setup.

The first picture shows the area I will be upgrading from my 38 gallon freshwater tank to what I plan on being the Reefer 350. The current tank is approximately 32" across, so the 48" Reefer 350 will take up pretty much all of the space to the table on the right, while being close to the same height. It is tough to tell from the picture, but there is actually a decent amount of space from the end of the couch to the from of the tank (the view is not obstructed by that).

The second picture shows where I plan to clean up and set up my RODI station in the basement. Hopefully can install and outlet and plumb the RODI unit to the utility sink fairly easily. Depending on how I go about a quarantine tank, that will probably be located in this area as well.

Let me know what you guys think!

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Rudzbrewski

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Looks like you have a solid plan. Watch R2R’s sale forum..I got a great deal on two of my XR15 g4 Pros.
Thanks for the advice! I keep going back and forth between what pieces I want to go with for lights and powerheads. I am stuck between the couple I previously listed, so I need to finalize my decision and I will be sure to constantly monitor that forum for a deal as you suggested!
 
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Rudzbrewski

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Update 2/20/2020: Phase 1

After stumbling upon some videos and threads on budget 10 gallon reef tanks, I decided to start with a 10 gallon reef tank that would eventually transition into my QT tank when I upgrade to my ultimate goal Reefer DT. My plan for this initial phase is to get my feet wet in the saltwater world by starting with a "budget" 10 gallon tank with parts that will either be utilized as a QT tank down the line or transplanted to the DT tank. I know many would suggest a 20 or 29 gallon tank vs the 10 gallon, but locations for this tank limited me to the 10 gallon. I am currently thinking about placing it in my office on my desk as there seems to be extra space, I am in there regularly, and there is room in the foot area to place the ATO reservoir. I plan on stocking the tank with a CUC, a few beginner fish, and some beginner corals just to start growing them out and practicing before having a larger area to cover. I do not have a full stock list yet, so suggestions are definitely welcome...more to come. So far, I have been able to acquire a majority of the components on sale ($1 per gallon sale, BRS sales, etc) or as open box deals! Special thanks to me LFS and their awesome employees for the guidance and dealing with all of my questions on starting this journey @A Reef Creation !

"Budget" 10 Gallon Equipment:
Tank: 10 gallon Aqueon w/ rim ($1 per gallon sale)

Filter: HOB Aqua Clear 50

Heater: Eheim Jager True Temp 75 watt

Powerhead: Hydor Koralia Nano 240 gph


ATO: Tunze Osmolator 3155 (will eventually be transitioned to DT)

ATO reservoir: 5 gallon plastic container

Thermometer: Zacro digital

Light: AI Hydra 32 --- I know, not a budget light and way overkill here. Got a fantastic open box deal that I couldn't resist. I plan on running it at a super low intensity, or will swap out for a cheaper $60 light and save for my DT. Will continue searching for another great deal for a second unit for that DT.

Light mount: undecided / not purchased yet

Background: Plasti dip spray

Rock: not purchased, most likely live rock from LFS

Sand: none because plan is to eventually use as QT tank

Scraper: Flipper

Salt mix: Red Sea Blue Bucket

Starter bacteria: Red Sea (coming middle of next week)

Test kit: Red Sea

Refractometer

Ammonia badge: not purchased at this time, if I decide to get one will be copper compatible for when transitioned to QT tank

Magnetic surface skimmer: Not purchased...yet. Oceanbox Designs has a cool surface skimmer/overflow looking product specifically designed for the Aqua Clear filter, so I may add this to help with filtration and improve overall aesthetics.

RODI Setup:
RODI unit: BRS 4 Stage Plus (modified to equivalent by LFS)

Reservoirs: 2x 44 gallon Brute cans w/ added float switches

Thermometer: Zacro digital

Heater: Eheim Jager True Temp 150 watt

Powerhead: Hydor Koralia Nano 425 gph

Step 1:
Re-arrange and organize the RODI location (pictured in original post) to setup RODI mixing station. Going to keep it fairly simple for now with the Brute cans w/ float switches to prevent overflow and transfer the water via siphoning and jugs to the tank. Even a 50% water change will only be a single 5 gallon jug, so this should be adequate for now.

Step 2:
Mix up some RODI and Saltwater to get the tank and ATO system ready for live rock and cycle. Will fill the tank ~3/4 with saltwater to calibrate the heater.

Step 3:
My LFS was out of test kits, so a delivery should be in around the middle of next week. At that time, I will pick up the test kit, starter bacteria, and live rock to add to the tank and start the cycle and monitoring process. Prefer to develop a relationship with a local business and don't mind waiting a few days to support them to get the tank started.

Looking forward to your recommendations, comments, and constructive criticism as I start my reefing journey! More pictures to come as the setup progresses throughout the next week.
IMG_4838.jpg
 
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Rudzbrewski

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Today was the day we finally got the party started!

Step 1:
Over the past few days I took the time to clean up and rearrange my water mixing area and install my RODI unit. This took much longer than expected due to the Brute cans at my local hardware store coming with surprise gifts of dirt, grime, and possibly dead animals in them after being stored outside. I rinsed them out with the hose, sprayed them down with 1:15 bleach in water solution wiping them down until clean, and finally rinsing them thoroughly 3 times. I need to pick up a few pieces to finish it up and install the float switches, but it was functional enough to make RODI water to get things up and running.

Step 2:
Tank is pretty much all set up with components all spaced out and ready to go. Currently have just the heater and powerhead running to get the heater calibrated and water up to temp before mixing in the salt based on manufacturers recommendations (might need to grab a cheap kitchen scale to measure salt). Will then finish up my cable management to keep things neat and organized.

Step 3:
Just waiting to get the salt added and the LFS to give me the word that the final supplies have arrived to start the cycle!

Here are your pics:
IMG_4843.jpg
IMG_4842.jpg
 
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Rudzbrewski

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Calibrated the heater today to get the temperature locked in at about 77-78 degrees. Also mixed in the Red Sea blue bucket salt with a reading right about 1.025. Tunze ATO hooked up and kicked on to make sure it was working.

Now ready to move onto Phase 3 and head to the LFS tomorrow or the next day to start the cycle!
 
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Rudzbrewski

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Phase 3:
Picked up 8-9 pounds of live rock from the LFS and the Red Sea Reef Mature starter kit. Set up my aquascape and will start today as Day 1 of the cycle process! Directions say to let aquascape be for 24 hours and the first additives get dosed tomorrow for Day 2. Excited to get this party going!

ATO troubles:
Noticed my water level was a bit low and the Tunze Osmolator wasn't kicking on. After playing around with it for a little while it does kick on when I take the sensor out of the water, so maybe it just needed to be unplugged and plugged in to reset for some reason. I will have to keep an eye on it. Luckily salinity was still right on.

Aquascape:
Had a few thoughts on how I wanted this to look (some type of arch with some flow and depth). After playing around for well over an hour I settled on the second arrangement. It is definitely challenging to get a decent amount of character in the design for a small 10 gallon tank.
image1 (1).jpeg
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SebastianM

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As promised, here are the two areas I plan on using for my tank and RODI setup.

The first picture shows the area I will be upgrading from my 38 gallon freshwater tank to what I plan on being the Reefer 350. The current tank is approximately 32" across, so the 48" Reefer 350 will take up pretty much all of the space to the table on the right, while being close to the same height. It is tough to tell from the picture, but there is actually a decent amount of space from the end of the couch to the from of the tank (the view is not obstructed by that).

The second picture shows where I plan to clean up and set up my RODI station in the basement. Hopefully can install and outlet and plumb the RODI unit to the utility sink fairly easily. Depending on how I go about a quarantine tank, that will probably be located in this area as well.

Let me know what you guys think!

unnamed.jpg
unnamed (1).jpg
I have a BRS RODI value system, 150 gpd. It comes with an awesome feature that screws onto your utility sink faucet with a valve that controls water flow between faucet and RODI system, it can be set up and taken down in minutes, it also comes with backets and can be mounted/plumbed for a more permanent setting.
 

SebastianM

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I have a BRS RODI value system, 150 gpd. It comes with an awesome feature that screws onto your utility sink faucet with a valve that controls water flow between faucet and RODI system, it can be set up and taken down in minutes, it also comes with backets and can be mounted/plumbed for a more permanent setting.
Didn’t read the entire thread and realized we have the same setup towards the bottom. :)
 
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Rudzbrewski

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Didn’t read the entire thread and realized we have the same setup towards the bottom. :)
Yes, it sounds like our setups are very similar. Eventually I might add additional plumbing once I get more used to the process and know exactly what I would want to make life easier. For now, the volumes are small enough it is manageable as is.
 
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Milestones and updates:

We are now ~40 days into the tank being wet. Since the last update we have finished the Red Sea Reef Mature program and continued to dose 1 ml of NOPOX and 1 ml of KHGRO daily. There are two pictures that summarize the dosing, water changes, and levels of the tank's history. I also have the AI Hyrda 32 mounted ~14 inches above the water and set to ~20-30% with mostly blues and violets and only small percentages of red, green, and white,

As a follow up, the Tunze Osmolator has been working flawlessly since the previously reported issue. One question I have about it is besides unplugging it, is there any way to "pause" it while you perform water changes or maintenance, etc?

During this unique time of "social distancing" I have had the time to work on numerous projects around the house. After looking at numerous mixing station posts, I decided to take this opportunity to upgrade my mixing station (from largely recycled materials) and plumb the Brute cans to eliminate the need for siphoning that was quite time consuming. I based my plan on the "Let's Mix It Up" thread. I have it plumbed in a similar way where I can eventually add an external pump to fully automate the system in the future. For now, I am very happy to have it clean, organized, and plumbed to easily transfer water.

Finally, the first livestock was added this past weekend! After talking with the LFS, I decided to add a single Emerald Crab as a hardy invert that will serve as a member of the cleanup crew, but also allow me to make sure with small feedings and an inhabitant how my chemistry fluctuates before adding the next resident. It is a small addition, but an exciting first step in the process!

Next, I am planning to continue adding livestock as chemistry permits. I am working on formulating a stocking list. Ideally, I would like to have 2 small clowns as the fish inhabitants, but there is concern about the tank being large enough for even one. Seems as if there are many mixed opinions on the topic. Then again, in 6-12 months I plan to be in a much larger tank, so if I get two of the smallest I can find in the LFS they shouldn't outgrow the tank prior to the planned future upgrade. Other than that, once we get to the 90 day mark I am hoping things are holding steady and going well enough to allow "beginner" corals like softies and zoas to be introduced.

Would love any thoughts or suggestions on stocking options! Most importantly, here are some updated pictures!

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SebastianM

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2 small clowns should be fine. I have a black ocillaris and a royal gramma in my 10 gallon and they get along great. Just remember the weekly water change! As long as you stay on top of that it will provide adequate nutrient export and element replenishment. I change 10-20% every Saturday and I hold 10 DKH, 460 calc and 1500 magnesium steady. I am pretty much stocked at capacity with LPS coral and softies, all are fairly hardy and are a bit more forgiving on the parameter side. I was told by my lfs that I brought a water sample to that the tank was “too clean” and should steer closer to a 10% change in order to keep some nitrates. My iPhone camera doesn’t do the blue lights any justice
733BFECB-140D-466D-BE26-866DBDCDE642.jpeg
 
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Rudzbrewski

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2 small clowns should be fine. I have a black ocillaris and a royal gramma in my 10 gallon and they get along great. Just remember the weekly water change! As long as you stay on top of that it will provide adequate nutrient export and element replenishment. I change 10-20% every Saturday and I hold 10 DKH, 460 calc and 1500 magnesium steady. I am pretty much stocked at capacity with LPS coral and softies, all are fairly hardy and are a bit more forgiving on the parameter side. I was told by my lfs that I brought a water sample to that the tank was “too clean” and should steer closer to a 10% change in order to keep some nitrates. My iPhone camera doesn’t do the blue lights any justice
733BFECB-140D-466D-BE26-866DBDCDE642.jpeg
The tank still looks great! It’s encouraging knowing others are having success with a similar setup, stocking list, and coral selection as I am planning. I’m looking forward to adding some fish in the near future and coral a few weeks later. I’m going to test my water every 3-4 days now that I am feeding to trend it, but I do plan on a 10% weekly water change as you suggest. Luckily these changes on a 10 gallon are nice and easy. Especially now that my mixing station is more user friendly! Looking forward to following along on your tank, too!
 
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Another milestone hit! This past weekend I finally was able to add fish. Added 2 of the smallest o. Clownfish that we could find to allow them the time and ability to grow in the 10 gallon tank. Hopefully, if all things go as planned, I will be in a larger tank before they are full grown and feeling any type of cramped. Picked out one Davinci and one misband. They have been making the one corner home to this point, but seem to be doing well and eating frozen mysis. I plan on keeping an eye on their behavior incase they are unable to handle the flow from the Hydor Koralia nano 240 vs just being shy.

I plan on testing the water every 3 days or so to ensure the tank is keeping up with the new bioload. Other than that, parameters gave been holding with 10% weekly water changes and Emerald crab makes celebrity appearances out of his rock holes every so often.

In about 2 more weeks I will probably try adding my first coral (any suggestions?).
0008561C-E2E0-451F-835A-7C950761CE52.jpeg
 

SebastianM

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Another milestone hit! This past weekend I finally was able to add fish. Added 2 of the smallest o. Clownfish that we could find to allow them the time and ability to grow in the 10 gallon tank. Hopefully, if all things go as planned, I will be in a larger tank before they are full grown and feeling any type of cramped. Picked out one Davinci and one misband. They have been making the one corner home to this point, but seem to be doing well and eating frozen mysis. I plan on keeping an eye on their behavior incase they are unable to handle the flow from the Hydor Koralia nano 240 vs just being shy.

I plan on testing the water every 3 days or so to ensure the tank is keeping up with the new bioload. Other than that, parameters gave been holding with 10% weekly water changes and Emerald crab makes celebrity appearances out of his rock holes every so often.

In about 2 more weeks I will probably try adding my first coral (any suggestions?).
0008561C-E2E0-451F-835A-7C950761CE52.jpeg
Nice! I would try some trumpet corals (candy canes) or some Acan Lords (micromusa lord). The candy canes are super hardy and forgiving to lighting and parameters. The Acans are relatively the same, prefer lower light and come in some awesome color variations. Zoas are hardy also, but are such effective growers that they are know to “take over” wherever you put them. (Recommend a separate structure or to fill bare spots) Euphylia (also LPS) does really well in my 10 gallon under the AI prime 16HD light. Also, if you can find any local hobbyists on a Facebook market place or offer up that are trading/selling coral, I’d recommend that. Much cheaper than LFS pricing. Don’t forget to dip the coral before placing in your tank! Don’t want to introduce any parasites into a nano tank, Coral RX works great. :cool: I have a 2” royal gramma and 2” black ocellaris (she’s mean to my hand but nice to her tank mates so I can’t complain) and a small skunk cleaner all doing great with the Hydor Koralia 240 with the controller set a 1 minute intervals.
 
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Nice! I would try some trumpet corals (candy canes) or some Acan Lords (micromusa lord). The candy canes are super hardy and forgiving to lighting and parameters. The Acans are relatively the same, prefer lower light and come in some awesome color variations. Zoas are hardy also, but are such effective growers that they are know to “take over” wherever you put them. (Recommend a separate structure or to fill bare spots) Euphylia (also LPS) does really well in my 10 gallon under the AI prime 16HD light. Also, if you can find any local hobbyists on a Facebook market place or offer up that are trading/selling coral, I’d recommend that. Much cheaper than LFS pricing. Don’t forget to dip the coral before placing in your tank! Don’t want to introduce any parasites into a nano tank, Coral RX works great. :cool: I have a 2” royal gramma and 2” black ocellaris (she’s mean to my hand but nice to her tank mates so I can’t complain) and a small skunk cleaner all doing great with the Hydor Koralia 240 with the controller set a 1 minute intervals.
Thanks for all of the advice! I plan on picking up some $10 coral that is colorful, but beginner friendly to avoid taking up space with drab looking corals just because they are hardy. One thought I had was to start with zoas (shocker) since they come in such a variety of colors that are appealing for any level of reefer and over time combine some cool color variations on the "pedestal structure" to see if a neat zoa garden blends around the base or even the entire thing.
 
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The last 7-10 days have been discouraging and a major setback. Just over a week after adding the two clowns I noticed the Davinci clown was having some white stringy poop. After research and consulting the LFS we decided to change their diet from frozen mysis, since this ban be a benign cause and it was behaving regularly. Two days later I went to bed and both were normal only to wake up to the Davinci having vanished. All water parameters were checked as I was monitoring every 3 days since addition of fish and were normal. Checked out of the tank, filters, everywhere imaginable with no signs. Assumed the emerald crab either killed it or found it dead (would it really go downhill in <8 hours that fast) and dragged it deep into the rock.

Started testing water and 2-3 days later saw some ammonia building. Other clown was still acting as it had since I added them with no signs or symptoms of issues. Then it happened again! Went to bed clown acting fine, less than 8 hours later GONE! Once again searched everywhere and even took out the rock to look into nooks and crannies with a flashlight with no luck. 2-3 days later tested water again and ammonia is still on the rise. Pretty sure the crab is pulling them into the rockwork deep because he disappears for days (during day and night) after they disappear. Unfortunately, I don't know if he is killing or scavenging. Either way, the decision was made that he will be removed to eliminate one variable moving forward.

Unfortunately, I have not been able to find where the remains are to remove them to prevent ammonia build up. I am going to try again to remove and thoroughly search the rock a third time. Otherwise, I am forced to wait weeks while the bodies decompose and ammonia returns to zero. Then I will be able to try again adding some inhabitants and eventually corals.

Tough break going from 2 days away from adding the first corals to being set back past zero. The most frustrating part is not knowing what the cause was, if it was bad luck, keeper error, or rogue crab. Not overly convinced it was disease as they were acting relatively normal for clowns, eating, and no visual issues besides some minor fin damage that I would chalk up to regular "clowning around".

Hopefully better things are to come.
 

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