SDReef's 330G CDA Acropora Dominant Mixed Reef

[sdreef]

Be carefull with liquid phosphate control items, usually contains lanthanum Chloride which is especially bad for tangs and other fish can't tolerate it either. I have read and seen horror stories of people losing tanks and sometimes almost all their fish ..

Thank you, that's definitely worth mentioning. I agree with your comments. I'm not currently using any lanthanum based products.

I have in the past used TM Elimi-Phos (Not to be confused with Elimi-NP for carbon dosing). Elimi-phos is a lanthanum based product, and when I used it I followed the instructions going very slow for that very reason. I never encountered problems, but it always made me nervous. I dosed to an area with high water flow in the sump prior to the mechanical filtration and skimmer. I never dosed to the display. Richard Ross and others who use lanthanum more regularly have discussed dosing into the body of the skimmer so that the floculant is essentially immediately skimmed out.

At this point, GFO and the other export methods have been successful in maintaining the levels in my system and gradually bringing it down.

 

[1ocean]

yes I agree...GFO is safer.. I am building a GFO reactor cause I need a bigger one for the 300. So I am re purposing a used reactor I bought. I think it was for calcium or carbon at one time.

 

[sdreef]

I posted some of this on the Wrasse lover's thread recently, and new addition continues to do well and a new brief video.

New addition, Anampses lennardi, wanted to share my early experience getting her acclimated to the system

I pre-ordered from the vendor. She basically went from the airport to the vendor where I picked her up at the time of arrival.

Since I believe she'd spent a fair amount of time in the bag, I decided to follow Biota's acclimation guide to basically temperature acclimate and add to the system. The salinity in the bag measured 34 ppt compared to my system's 35 ppt. System temp is 75-76.

I have a large acclimation box that is invaluable, but historically I haven't used for sand dwelling wrasses. Not sure what others do. In this case, I decided to use the box and added about 1-1.5" of sand to one end for the first time. This added a fair bit of weight and I needed to employ a larger magnet.

Day 1, emerged from sand around noon, ate a few live black worms
Day 2, emerged around 11 am, eating live black worms, but no frozen
Day 3, Started eating frozen mysis, ocean plankton, and brine shrimp

Day 5, emerged with lights on around 8 am adjusting nicely to light cycle. Released into system in the evening as lights were close to dimming. Immediately started picking at rocks, and no compatibility issues encountered.

Day 10: Fully adjusted to light schedule. Actively picking at rocks and taking frozen from the water column. Hangs out by automatic feeder and is learning to seek food here. I haven't seen her take freeze dried mysis yet, but it is looking promising.

Here's a video from this morning. Eating frozen around the 2 second mark.



In retrospect, I would use the same process. I suspect using the box was helpful in managing initial stress and facilitating early feeding. With the fish in a more comfortable setting, I also believe it helped in adjusting to the lighting schedule.

 

[Hydrored]

Hi,

Are you happy with your Geo sump? I’m in the market for a new sump and have decided to not use Advanced Acrylics again.

Thanks

 

[sdreef]

Hi,

Are you happy with your Geo sump? I’m in the market for a new sump and have decided to not use Advanced Acrylics again.

Thanks

Yes, I like my sump. Does exactly what I wanted it to do.

The communication with Geo was always good. I had a problem with the fit of one of the plastic grids for my automatic filter roller and he was very responsive in helping me troubleshoot and getting out a replacement part. I like the quality of the product, but the professionalism when things don't go as expected is important for me.

After two years, there's not much I would have changed about it. Perhaps the dimensions, I could have gone a little larger. The refugium light grows chaeto, but I've ordered an additional refugium light to see if additional light may increase the growth rate of the chaeto, but that's more of me experimenting than anything else.

 

[Hydrored]

Yes, I like my sump. Does exactly what I wanted it to do.

The communication with Geo was always good. I had a problem with the fit of one of the plastic grids for my automatic filter roller and he was very responsive in helping me troubleshoot and getting out a replacement part. I like the quality of the product, but the professionalism when things don't go as expected is important for me.

After two years, there's not much I would have changed about it. Perhaps the dimensions, I could have gone a little larger. The refugium light grows chaeto, but I've ordered an additional refugium light to see if additional light may increase the growth rate of the chaeto, but that's more of me experimenting than anything else.

I was thinking of just telling him to build your same sump for me, how much larger would you go? I should be at about 470 gallons of display volume

 

[sdreef]

I was thinking of just telling him to build your same sump for me, how much larger would you go? I should be at about 470 gallons of display volume

Short answer is make sure it can accomodate the water volume when the returns are off. I originally used 1" random flow generators on the return lines and had to put them deeper into the tank to avoid sucking air from the surface. When I turned off the returns, I did not have sufficient volume in the sump to hold all the water backing up. As a result I ended up having to reconfigure the return line going back to the tank and ditched the random flow generators.

If the sump is going to be out of the stand, you'll have more freedom with size. Will your sump be in or out of the stand?

In my case, the sump measures 66x20x15. When I turn off the return pumps, the water now fills to within a few inches of the top of the sump. That's adequate, but I think the more room the better. My display volume is approximately 330 gallons and with a larger display this would definitely be a consideration. Here's what it looks like with the drains off for a minute, it would fill up a bit more if I gave it a little more time before snapping the photo.

The 15" height makes it easy to work in the sump, and having easier access to the sump in the stand was important. If the sump will be out I would definitely add height. In the stand, I'd consider going to 16".

The 66" length was the max I felt I could accomodate while leaving some working room on the side of the tank. I made a little diagram at the time anticipating how I was going to lay it all out. I ended up putting the the trident in the back of the tank and nixed the electronics cabinet when I routed all the electrical to the closet behind the tank, so perhaps could have gone longer. It is nice though to have room around the sump in the stand. I like room in the front of the sump too, but could simply have gone deeper to add water volume.

Here's how I have the sump layed out, and some more detailed thought reflecting on each section.

Drain | Mechanical Filtration | Skimmer | Dual Return | Reactors | Refugium

I have two filter rollers in series. I don't like socks but I know many who don't mind them. The filter rollers work, but occasionally will roll up on an angle. Then I have to play with them to get them rolling back in line, and this happens maybe once a month. Not sure if the new red sea roller design may be better. This is not too big of a deal for me, and they've worked and spared me having to deal with socks which has been a plus. More importantly is the consistency for the system of having the mechanical filtration changed. I would put off changing socks (still do) in my smaller tank.

I do run the first roller on a timer while the second runs off the float. I do this to maximize the rolls, otherwise I was going through the first roll much faster. I end up using about two rolls for the first roller a year and 3-4 rolls for the second roller a year. So 5-6 replacement rolls a year between the two. The filter rollers turn off when the returns are off as well.

The skimmer chamber was built to fit the foot print of the Bubble king Deluxe 200. If you decide to go with filter rollers, undersize the skimmer. But this chamber can be adjusted to fit whatever skimmer you select. I ordered my skimmer and return pumps through Geo as well. He built lids for each chamber, but I don't use them.

The return section was also sized to accomodate the specific return pumps I selected. If you have larger return pumps, then this section would need to be bigger.

Each return feeds one media reactor that then puts water out back into the skimmer section. I like the integrated reactors because it's tidy and easy to swap out media. The schedule 80 fittings are not necessary for function, but I like the quality for unions I'm opening and closing regularly. I use one reactor for GFO and the other for carbon.

The refugium is post returns. We sized the return and skimmer sections more tightly to maximize this section. The water gets fed to this section off of a manifold from the returns. With occasional die off of chaeto or from other sources, I still get detritus in this section. Not a big deal, and easy to clean. I don't get coralline in the other sections which is a positive of the form factor of this reefbrite light.

If I ever implement a calcium reactor (the first thing I purchased for this system), I would send the effluent to this section. I have thought about the best way to stabilize pH when using a calcium reactor. I'm not sure whether it would have been better to simply have the water move through the refugium passively post skimmer and have effluent go to the skimmer section to blow off CO2 prior to going to the refuigum where more CO2 would be utilized by the macro algae. I don't know the answer to this, but something to consider.

For the returns, the outlet of the return pumps is 1" and I went to 1" plumbing. I believe you have less friction loss from the returns if you upsize the plumbing. Not a big deal as I have more than enough power in the pumps, but simply a more efficient way to plumb. The one inch plumbing carries up all the way to the tank and in the tank I split to 3/4" loc-line.

 

[1ocean]

nice sump... I have a 300 and I built my own sump out of cast acrylic. 60x24x18 last year. Now I am upgrading it, removed my reactors from the sumps chamber dedicated to reactors and added 100 pounds of Florida LIve rock I got from a reefers tank tear down. I am building a box now to keep all my reactors in next to my sump under the 300....Started out building using friends commercial table saw, now have a 5x8 cnc router table and a 4x5 laser and getting a acrylic bender. I already built a few sumps for friends here as my test project. Building ato containers now for friends to test market.
I agree with sdreef you need to be able to handle the main tank drain when you feed or if the power goes out. You can figure out tank drop to the inch and also sump handle capabilities by calculating volume. My tank drops 12.5 gallons per inch. I allow only a 1 inch drop but my sump can handle a 5 inch drop. If I take out the overflow pipes it drop 3 inches and the sump handles it fine for cleaning....Don't get a small sump always go bigger cause you do not know what the future needs will be...
Next big project here will be the house addition to the garage to build a 600 gallon acylic...

 

[Hydrored]

Short answer is make sure it can accomodate the water volume when the returns are off. I originally used 1" random flow generators on the return lines and had to put them deeper into the tank to avoid sucking air from the surface. When I turned off the returns, I did not have sufficient volume in the sump to hold all the water backing up. As a result I ended up having to reconfigure the return line going back to the tank and ditched the random flow generators.

If the sump is going to be out of the stand, you'll have more freedom with size. Will your sump be in or out of the stand?

In my case, the sump measures 66x20x15. When I turn off the return pumps, the water now fills to within a few inches of the top of the sump. That's adequate, but I think the more room the better. My display volume is approximately 330 gallons and with a larger display this would definitely be a consideration. Here's what it looks like with the drains off for a minute, it would fill up a bit more if I gave it a little more time before snapping the photo.

The 15" height makes it easy to work in the sump, and having easier access to the sump in the stand was important. If the sump will be out I would definitely add height. In the stand, I'd consider going to 16".

The 66" length was the max I felt I could accomodate while leaving some working room on the side of the tank. I made a little diagram at the time anticipating how I was going to lay it all out. I ended up putting the the trident in the back of the tank and nixed the electronics cabinet when I routed all the electrical to the closet behind the tank, so perhaps could have gone longer. It is nice though to have room around the sump in the stand. I like room in the front of the sump too, but could simply have gone deeper to add water volume.

Here's how I have the sump layed out, and some more detailed thought reflecting on each section.

Drain | Mechanical Filtration | Skimmer | Dual Return | Reactors | Refugium

I have two filter rollers in series. I don't like socks but I know many who don't mind them. The filter rollers work, but occasionally will roll up on an angle. Then I have to play with them to get them rolling back in line, and this happens maybe once a month. Not sure if the new red sea roller design may be better. This is not too big of a deal for me, and they've worked and spared me having to deal with socks which has been a plus. More importantly is the consistency for the system of having the mechanical filtration changed. I would put off changing socks (still do) in my smaller tank.

I do run the first roller on a timer while the second runs off the float. I do this to maximize the rolls, otherwise I was going through the first roll much faster. I end up using about two rolls for the first roller a year and 3-4 rolls for the second roller a year. So 5-6 replacement rolls a year between the two. The filter rollers turn off when the returns are off as well.

The skimmer chamber was built to fit the foot print of the Bubble king Deluxe 200. If you decide to go with filter rollers, undersize the skimmer. But this chamber can be adjusted to fit whatever skimmer you select. I ordered my skimmer and return pumps through Geo as well. He built lids for each chamber, but I don't use them.

The return section was also sized to accomodate the specific return pumps I selected. If you have larger return pumps, then this section would need to be bigger.

Each return feeds one media reactor that then puts water out back into the skimmer section. I like the integrated reactors because it's tidy and easy to swap out media. The schedule 80 fittings are not necessary for function, but I like the quality for unions I'm opening and closing regularly. I use one reactor for GFO and the other for carbon.

The refugium is post returns. We sized the return and skimmer sections more tightly to maximize this section. The water gets fed to this section off of a manifold from the returns. With occasional die off of chaeto or from other sources, I still get detritus in this section. Not a big deal, and easy to clean. I don't get coralline in the other sections which is a positive of the form factor of this reefbrite light.

If I ever implement a calcium reactor (the first thing I purchased for this system), I would send the effluent to this section. I have thought about the best way to stabilize pH when using a calcium reactor. I'm not sure whether it would have been better to simply have the water move through the refugium passively post skimmer and have effluent go to the skimmer section to blow off CO2 prior to going to the refuigum where more CO2 would be utilized by the macro algae. I don't know the answer to this, but something to consider.

For the returns, the outlet of the return pumps is 1" and I went to 1" plumbing. I believe you have less friction loss from the returns if you upsize the plumbing. Not a big deal as I have more than enough power in the pumps, but simply a more efficient way to plumb. The one inch plumbing carries up all the way to the tank and in the tank I split to 3/4" loc-line.

Thank you, I always appreciate your insight. I'm still not 100% sold on placing the sump in the garage, I can place all of the electronics and UV on the garage wall keeping under the stand for only plumbing and the sump.

nice sump... I have a 300 and I built my own sump out of cast acrylic. 60x24x18 last year. Now I am upgrading it, removed my reactors from the sumps chamber dedicated to reactors and added 100 pounds of Florida LIve rock I got from a reefers tank tear down. I am building a box now to keep all my reactors in next to my sump under the 300....Started out building using friends commercial table saw, now have a 5x8 cnc router table and a 4x5 laser and getting a acrylic bender. I already built a few sumps for friends here as my test project. Building ato containers now for friends to test market.
I agree with sdreef you need to be able to handle the main tank drain when you feed or if the power goes out. You can figure out tank drop to the inch and also sump handle capabilities by calculating volume. My tank drops 12.5 gallons per inch. I allow only a 1 inch drop but my sump can handle a 5 inch drop. If I take out the overflow pipes it drop 3 inches and the sump handles it fine for cleaning....Don't get a small sump always go bigger cause you do not know what the future needs will be...
Next big project here will be the house addition to the garage to build a 600 gallon acylic...

I was looking for a local custom sump maker in Texas, I couldn't find anybody still in business

 

[1ocean]

Thank you, I always appreciate your insight. I'm still not 100% sold on placing the sump in the garage, I can place all of the electronics and UV on the garage wall keeping under the stand for only plumbing and the sump.



I was looking for a local custom sump maker in Texas, I couldn't find anybody still in business

have you checked getting a used one to save money?

 

[sdreef]

An update on the system. Overall system is doing well, but I noticed polyp extension on my largest millie colony has been getting a little worse over the past couple weeks.

Looking at some of the other millies in the system, polyp extension looked good. (I should have stopped the flow to get sharper photos of the polyps)

TGC Redwing is immediately adjacent to the colony with nearly identical light and flow.

Unknown Millie

RRC Splice

As a sidenote, here is the original splice frag. It had pink a little pink when I got it which it lost while on the frag rack in my other system. The piece was able to go from all green to where it's at now. Didn't do much the first year, it got the pink back and encrusted slowly. This past year growing at a steady pace.

2/2021

12/2021

OG Sapphire Millie

Given the other millies in the system are doing well, I'm thinking the polyp extension for the colony is worse due to a local biologic issue and has nothing to do with the water chemistry which has been otherwise stable. Originally, there was a granulosa colony located where the millie is now. I noticed some of the granulosa remnant has grown, encrusted, and is now abutting the millie. The base of the millie has turned bright green as well which I now think is a sign of stress. You can see the granulosa growing up to the newly bright green base of the millie in the photo. I believe the millie's energy is getting diverted to fight the granulosa and this is likely contributing to polyp extension is getting worse.

In this case, I wanted to help the millie and I decided to remove the encrusted granulosa. I've seen others talk about letting the corals battle it out, but I'm concerned I would risk losing the millie as I think it's losing the fight.

Not sure if there are any tricks, but I basically cut the encrusted base away with coral cutters. I'll see how the millie polyp extension responds. In the coming days I'll re-inspect the area I scraped. I'm considering applying some putty or F-aptasia to make sure I've completely cleared the area of any remaining tissue.

A few other corals in the system:

The acrolandia tenuis in October

Two months later, here's the acrolandia today. Clearly better polyp extension, tissue looks healthier, and colors are improving.

TGC Bugatti

TGC Cherry Bomb, colors improved substantially since this summer

Walt Disney, I lost my old WD and this is a relatively recent addition to the system that has acclimated well and looks happy.

 

[mstgkillr]

Still happy with your lighting choice?

I'm second guessing my choice of (3) Stratons for my Red Sea Reefer-S 1000 (82.7'x26.75"x25.6") predominantly SPS (acropora) mixed reef, or maybe just not getting 4 fixtures instead of 3. Honestly, I think I'm just old school and want MH.

I'm heavily leaning towards the Giesemann Spectra 72" MH with 250W or 400W Radiums and 4x80W T5. I always tend to overdue things, so my first reaction is to go with 400W, but your tank says otherwise.

I keep my house at 74* year round, so I think I can get away with Giesemann Spectra 72" MH 3x250W fixture without a chiller.

Thoughts? Anything you would do different? Do you think the Reef Brite XHO Blue 72" x 2 are worth the effort, or is there a better T5 combo with the Giesemann fixture?

 

[sdreef]

Still happy with your lighting choice?

I'm second guessing my choice of (3) Stratons for my Red Sea Reefer-S 1000 (82.7'x26.75"x25.6") predominantly SPS (acropora) mixed reef, or maybe just not getting 4 fixtures instead of 3. Honestly, I think I'm just old school and want MH.

I'm heavily leaning towards the Giesemann Spectra 72" MH with 250W or 400W Radiums and 4x80W T5. I always tend to overdue things, so my first reaction is to go with 400W, but your tank says otherwise.

I keep my house at 74* year round, so I think I can get away with Giesemann Spectra 72" MH 3x250W fixture without a chiller.

Thoughts? Anything you would do different? Do you think the Reef Brite XHO Blue 72" x 2 are worth the effort, or is there a better T5 combo with the Giesemann fixture?

What's making you unhappy with the stratons? I'm considering re-doing my QT tank, and was thinking about trying a Straton or Straton pro when they become available.

Regarding my display, I'm happy with the lights. No second thoughts. I have acros growing on the rock work at all depths and even on the tank periphery. I don't know that there would be a benefit to 400W, and on the downside there would be greater heat and power utilization. The lights have been able to produce growth and I've been happy with the colors of the corals.

When I initially setup the tank, I made a few PAR maps. One with the halides/T5s/RBs and a second with only the T5s and RBs. Would likely be a little different in your display, but your dimensions are similar. Here's the post with the maps.

Large Build - SDReef's 330G CDA Acropora Dominant Mixed Reef

Tank is looking great!!! Thank you! I'm trying to have patience to let the system mature. I feel like I'm transferring a new "tester" coral in the system daily now, but it is nice to see some flow and color in the system now.

www.reef2reef.com

After 2 years no chiller, and I'm able to manage with fans. If the room temperature goes above 75, the tank does start to get warmer, and usually at that point I turn on the AC.

Currently, I only run the halides for 4.5 hours per day, T5s 10 hours a day, XHOs 12 hours a day. I like the Reefbrites for the aesthetic and the fluorescence they demonstrate in the corals, but I don't think they're necessary for coral growth. For myself, I like the XHOs and would get them again.

Regarding the T5 combo, the first year I went with all Blue plus, but it was too blue for me. This past year, three Blue plus and one purple plus. I'm due to change my bulbs and I'm going to stick with 3 B+. For the fourth bulb I'm debating between a KZ Fiji Purple or Coral Plus. On my old system with the ATI powermodule I have 6 B+ 2 C+ for the color of light the combo produced, but not sure the coral plus wouldn't end up being too much white light in combo with the halides. I'm undecided on what the best bulb combo is. I'm still experimenting and open to any insights.

 

[glency]

So nice. Mira Mesa here.

 

[sdreef]

So nice. Mira Mesa here.

Thank you!

 

[mstgkillr]

What's making you unhappy with the stratons? I'm considering re-doing my QT tank, and was thinking about trying a Straton or Straton pro when they become available.

Regarding my display, I'm happy with the lights. No second thoughts. I have acros growing on the rock work at all depths and even on the tank periphery. I don't know that there would be a benefit to 400W, and on the downside there would be greater heat and power utilization. The lights have been able to produce growth and I've been happy with the colors of the corals.

When I initially setup the tank, I made a few PAR maps. One with the halides/T5s/RBs and a second with only the T5s and RBs. Would likely be a little different in your display, but your dimensions are similar. Here's the post with the maps.

Large Build - SDReef's 330G CDA Acropora Dominant Mixed Reef

Tank is looking great!!! Thank you! I'm trying to have patience to let the system mature. I feel like I'm transferring a new "tester" coral in the system daily now, but it is nice to see some flow and color in the system now.

www.reef2reef.com

After 2 years no chiller, and I'm able to manage with fans. If the room temperature goes above 75, the tank does start to get warmer, and usually at that point I turn on the AC.

Currently, I only run the halides for 4.5 hours per day, T5s 10 hours a day, XHOs 12 hours a day. I like the Reefbrites for the aesthetic and the fluorescence they demonstrate in the corals, but I don't think they're necessary for coral growth. For myself, I like the XHOs and would get them again.

Regarding the T5 combo, the first year I went with all Blue plus, but it was too blue for me. This past year, three Blue plus and one purple plus. I'm due to change my bulbs and I'm going to stick with 3 B+. For the fourth bulb I'm debating between a KZ Fiji Purple or Coral Plus. On my old system with the ATI powermodule I have 6 B+ 2 C+ for the color of light the combo produced, but not sure the coral plus wouldn't end up being too much white light in combo with the halides. I'm undecided on what the best bulb combo is. I'm still experimenting and open to any insights.

Thanks for the detailed response!

Honestly, at this point, there isn't anything specific I have experienced that I particularly dislike other than they have been discontinued in the US, and I would prefer a slightly bluer spectrum/pop.

My primary concern is the unknown, as I really don't know if these are a proven fixtures... the ATI SunPower and Giesemann Spectra are. With so many variables with great SPS color/growth, it would be nice to take the lightning variable out of the equation.

I believe the Stratons can perform well. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to find many success stories, but have found a few who had issues.

 

[sdreef]

Thanks for the detailed response!

Honestly, at this point, there isn't anything specific I have experienced that I particularly dislike other than they have been discontinued in the US, and I would prefer a slightly bluer spectrum/pop.

My primary concern is the unknown, as I really don't know if these are a proven fixtures... the ATI SunPower and Giesemann Spectra are. With so many variables with great SPS color/growth, it would be nice to take the lightning variable out of the equation.

I believe the Stratons can perform well. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to find many success stories, but have found a few who had issues.

Thanks, happy to know your experience.

I had a similar thought process when considering lights. I'm not a lighting expert, but I knew from experience coral grows well under T5s and there is a long track record of halides growing acropora. I added the XHOs for the fluorescent pop.

Inevitably some strains of coral may prefer one type of lighting or another, but that's not possible for me to predict. These lights are solid, I like the aesthetics of the color light produced and a broad variety of corals have grown well.

 

[sdreef]

Lennardi is doing great. She's started eating freeze-dried mysis from the auto feeder

Here's a video from this morning

December 23, 2022

youtube.com

 

[SaltyT]

Lennardi is doing great. She's started eating freeze-dried mysis from the auto feeder

Here's a video from this morning

December 23, 2022

youtube.com

She looks great!

 

[Mjl714]

Lennardi is doing great. She's started eating freeze-dried mysis from the auto feeder

Here's a video from this morning

December 23, 2022

youtube.com

she’s a beautiful!