Semi-emergency... Velvet, Cupramine and moyeri leopard wrasse.

4FordFamily

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I've been adding stability, though I know this is not an "active" bacteria product. Do you think I'd get better results with biospira?

Stability did absolutely nothing for me in quarantine and turned me off of all bacteria products. I decided to try Biospira and Dr Tims and it was literally night and day different. In short, I highly recommend throwing stability away as it is useless (in my opinion) and investing in either bio spira or dr tims.

Also, any thoughts on Prime with copper safe?

Do not do this. Prime and other ammonia detoxifying products used in conjunction with copper will turn the copper fatally toxic.
 
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I've been adding stability, though I know this is not an "active" bacteria product. Do you think I'd get better results with biospira?
If you have a spare sponge, take some Stability and put it in a small container with the sponge along with some food to rot in it. Let it sit for 3 or 4 days then try using it in your QT. I have had good luck with Biospira, but I always seed it before treating with copper.

Also, any thoughts on Prime with copper safe?
Don't do it!!!!
 
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Josh Kraft

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If you have a spare sponge, take some Prime and put it in a small container with the sponge along with some food to rot in it. Let it sit for 3 or 4 days then try using it in your QT. I have had good luck with Biospira, but I always seed it before treating with copper.


Don't do it!!!!

I'm pretty sure he meant to say soak the sponge in biospira, not prime. Do not use prime with copper.
 

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I'm pretty sure he meant to say soak the sponge in biospira, not prime. Do not use prime with copper.
Doh!!! I meant stability! ;Facepalm I need to edit that!
 
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If you have a spare sponge, take some Stability and put it in a small container with the sponge along with some food to rot in it. Let it sit for 3 or 4 days then try using it in your QT. I have had good luck with Biospira, but I always seed it before treating with copper.


Don't do it!!!!

I actually have a bag full of some seachem denitrate or something like that in there that I pulled from the tank at the same time as the fish. It was well seeded but this is two tangs, two clowns, a leopard wrasse, flasher wrasse and small goby in 10 gallons so I'm sure it's just overloaded. I'll bump the volume up to 20 gallons today when I do the water change then staty adding biospira dailym
 

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staty adding biospira dailym
If you get a bottle of Biospira, add 1/2 of it into the tank and the rest into a sponge in your filter off to the side in clean saltwater with fish food. Give it 2 days to "take" and then put it in your filter.

There isn't a good reason that I am aware of to not add all of the Biospira at once.
 

leahfiish

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If you still have stability you can use lot more than the recommended dose. Make sure you have enough media for the bacteria to colonize. And good aeration
 
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wow night and day difference with this biospira. I did a 50% water change yesterday then brought the total hospital tank volume up to 15 gallons. Added an entire bottle of the small biospira (says it's good for 30g) and there's barely any total ammonia today.
 
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Sorry to get off topic but any pics of your moyeri wrasse?
Yup

29662382_10106201188655142_5917560294900472708_o.jpg
 

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wow night and day difference with this biospira. I did a 50% water change yesterday then brought the total hospital tank volume up to 15 gallons. Added an entire bottle of the small biospira (says it's good for 30g) and there's barely any total ammonia today.
Exponentially better, isn't it?
 

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He looks like he hasn't eaten much. I'd get some blackworms, or try live brine. They're known for dying and a skinny leopard (particularly fragile ones like Kuiteri and Choates) is very much at risk.

Beautiful fish, I failed on all 3 attempts with mine.
 
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He looks like he hasn't eaten much. I'd get some blackworms, or try live brine. They're known for dying and a skinny leopard (particularly fragile ones like Kuiteri and Choates) is very much at risk.

Beautiful fish, I failed on all 3 attempts with mine.

That was taken over a month ago. He eats frozen.
 
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Velcro

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tangs are still pretty sluggish. Kinda just sitting in one spot of the tank. No interest in food.
 

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wow night and day difference with this biospira. I did a 50% water change yesterday then brought the total hospital tank volume up to 15 gallons. Added an entire bottle of the small biospira (says it's good for 30g) and there's barely any total ammonia today.

Biospira is some good stuff. I spent over $60 (wholesale) on Seachem Stability to cycle my QTs and weeks later the bacteria still couldn’t process 2ppm ammonia in under 24 hours. Switched over to Biospira to seed some other QTs and those were completely cycled in less than a week. ;)
 
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Velcro

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Quick question. My understanding is that I can remove these fish from hospital after 10 days of therapeutic copper and observe for two weeks in a new QT (minimizing water transferred from old tank). I've decided that I'm going to treat all new fish (that can handle copper) with copper power followed by observation before going into the display now.

My question is, if I add a new fish to the current hospital tank, can I still remove the OTHER fish that have been in for 10 days or should I wait for all the fish to have been through 10 days?
 

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Quick question. My understanding is that I can remove these fish from hospital after 10 days of therapeutic copper and observe for two weeks in a new QT (minimizing water transferred from old tank). I've decided that I'm going to treat all new fish (that can handle copper) with copper power followed by observation before going into the display now.

My question is, if I add a new fish to the current hospital tank, can I still remove the OTHER fish that have been in for 10 days or should I wait for all the fish to have been through 10 days?
Copper treatment should be 30 days at the therapuetic level. Not 10.

If you add a single fish at any time you have to start the 30 days over.

Copper only kills the final free swimming stage of the parasite looking for a fish to host. So if the fish you add has a parasite attached, it will not kill it, the parasite can complete the cycle to the point of releasing free swimmers. The free swimming stage is the only stage that cannot survive in copper. That is why you have to restart the 30 days.
 
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Velcro

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Copper treatment should be 30 days at the therapuetic level. Not 10.

If you add a single fish at any time you have to start the 30 days over.

Copper only kills the final free swimming stage of the parasite looking for a fish to host. So if the fish you add has a parasite attached, it will not kill it, the parasite can complete the cycle to the point of releasing free swimmers. The free swimming stage is the only stage that cannot survive in copper. That is why you have to restart the 30 days.

So what about this from the velvet sticky

Screenshot_2018-05-06-11-57-12.png
 

HotRocks

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Correct I misread your first post. That is like a combo TTM with copper.

You still won't want to add any fish.

And if you are dealing with ich it has a slower cycle. So I'm not sure it would work the same.
 

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