Setting up a new Biocube 32 LED

jonesjohnm

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Hi All,

I’m back in the hobby after a several year hiatus, due to working out of state. When I stopped I had a 120 gallon system with a 45 gallon sump. The maintenance became a bear due to infrequent hours and a crazy schedule. I decided to start back with something smaller and a little easier to maintain. If all goes well maybe next year I’ll get a big tank again.

I picked up my biocube new last week from my LFS. I’m looking for equipment suggestions... not garbage gear, not cheapo stuff. I’m looking for quality components that I can put in my tank. I have the following:


Back chamber
Chamber one: heater
Chamber two: biocube stock filter, then descending on the OEM rack on tier one I have double bonded filter floss. Tier two chemipure elite. Tier 3 purigen. At the bottom of the rack I have 3 lbs or rubble from my rock scape.
Chamber 3: sponge, ATO sensor, return pump.

Heater: Cobalt 100 thin heater
ATO: tunze 3155
Lights: stock
Stand: I fabricated a stand from 1 1/2” steel square tubing, I’ve got adjustable feet on the bottom for perfect leveling.

I’m looking for advice on how many, brand, flow, and powerhead placement. I’d also like input for any helpful mods/ accessories.

I started my fish less cycle with pure ammonia and used Turbo start for bacteria.
54a61fe9c1db7e8ed12f721fbe9b3546.jpg
 

Ranjib

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if you have not already purchased the above mentioned equipment, i'll suggest these:
- What are your stocking plans? Are you aiming for SPS/sticks? Do you plan to keep the hood? it will influence a lot of things. Follow is a list of suggestion assuming you are gutting the hood (which will also help in temperature control)
- A single MP10 for flow
- Kessil A360 for light
- Smart ATO micro for ATO
- Jaeger or neotherm for heater
- Tunze DOC 9002 or Aquamaxx HoB 1.5 for skimmer
- RO buddie for RO/DI setup
- Sicce syncra for return pump (not a necessity)
 

BedrockIOMC

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lapin

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Howdy....looks like you are on the right track for a great tank.
 
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jonesjohnm

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Most of my gear will all be Tunze. My ATO and my powerheads are, I’m thinking about ordering the 9001 skimmer so it can fit in the back with the lid on.

I’m working on a deal for a used AI prime HD... the only issue is it is white, I’d have to have it painted dark grey/ or black for my system.
 

lapin

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Masking tape and rattle can paint are cheap. I like darker if its going to be seen, unless contrast is needed.
 

hdsoftail1065

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Agree, sounds like your off to a great start. Some of the differeces I see from my setup is - I'm using poly pads and ditched the stock filters, they plug fast in our system. Running cheato in the bottom of the middle chamber with a cheap light taped to the back of the unit. Kept the hood and running Steve's LEDs.
 
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jonesjohnm

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I really don’t know what’s going to go in the tank yet. It will definitely be both fish and coral, I don’t know which end of the spectrum it will favor. Since this is a much smaller tank, the cost of corals will be much less than that of a bigger tank... so I may do the obligatory clownfish pair, pistol shrimp/ goby... then mostly coral. Who knows. As have gone through this process before I’m going to take my time and just feed ammonia for a while to build up my bacteria for quite a while before even considering adding fish.
 

Rock solid aquascape: Does the weight of the rocks in your aquascape matter?

  • The weight of the rocks is a key factor.

    Votes: 10 8.5%
  • The weight of the rocks is one of many factors.

    Votes: 43 36.8%
  • The weight of the rocks is a minor factor.

    Votes: 35 29.9%
  • The weight of the rocks is not a factor.

    Votes: 28 23.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 1 0.9%
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