Setting up running reef for 20+ year success???

[TCoach]

Ok, after I followed @brandon429 rip clean advice for my 92 tank move and had amazing success, I've been doing a ton more reading on the tank/maintenance threads of @PaulB, @HuduVudu, and @Subsea. Just finished PaulB's book (amazing and interesting read, great job!). I want to move my reef towards the kind of setup these long term reefers are running. I really do agree with PaulB's statement that our fish should live happy and healthy in our aquariums and die of old age. So for many of our fish that is living for +20 years in our care!

So with that in mind, how would you change a currently running reef to a reef aimed at 20-50 years of longevity?

Currently, my 92 corner reef is 5 days past my adoption of it, but the prior owner had it running for ~16 years. It has a bunch (weight unknown) of most likely Fiji live rock. I did put new rinsed CaribSea live sand in it, but the old sand in on the back porch waiting for a use.

Equipment wise I have:
Sump
2 Hydra powerheads
Red Octopus DC return pump
ATO system using kalkwasser water
Skimmer
Titanium heater
Current USA lights (horrible par)
Seneye

FIsh/Coral/Inverts:
1- Sailfin Tang
1 - Clown (occelaris or percula, not sure)
2 - Pajama Cardinals
1 - Malanarus Wrasse
1 - Coral Beauty
1 - Firefish
1 - Long Spined Black Urchin
Ton of Shrooms and zoa's
4 Frogspawns

Prior owner was feeding New Life Spectrum flakes, so I'm continuing that. However, I've added frozen mysis and brine shrimp. I'm also trying some Nori.

I think some initial steps are:

1. Start feeding live and/or whole frozen clams/shrimp? Are there other foods that would be good?
2. Build a white worm culture and feed them. (Looks like I can hide white worms, a black worm culture is probably out of the question with wifey)

Longer term:
1. Replace lighting - probably going to get 3 100W Nicrews.

What other steps would you recommend?

I'm assuming that my tank has parasites in it, but the current residents are healthy enough to handle them. So not sure what the recommended way would be to add any other inhabitants. At some point, I'd love the add some snails and hermits to help with clean up duty.

Thanks for help/advise.

 

[fish farmer]

I'd first get a handle on what the water parameters from this tank. It would interesting to see where the nitrates and phosphates are at in an old tank.

I notice it has hardier corals as well. Do you know the previous owners maintenance routine?

 

[rwreef]

A 16yr old reef is not going to like many sudden changes. The move alone will be/is a huge change. I recommend taking it very slow and not changing anything you don't need to. Pace yourself. Let the tank settle in for a few months then start thinking about changes.

Feed whatever the previous owner was feeding with success. Change over time if it helps / needed.

 

[TCoach]

I'd first get a handle on what the water parameters from this tank. It would interesting to see where the nitrates and phosphates are at in an old tank.

I notice it has hardier corals as well. Do you know the previous owners maintenance routine?

I don't know the pre-move water parameters and the owner was not testing. He was using fish and coral being healthy as his judge. (I guess with 16+ years on the tank, he knew his animals).

However, I know he was quality feeding flakes, doing water changes ever 1-2 weeks (I believe), and running an ATO with kalkwasser. He was also running some nitrate/phosphate reducing media in a separate media chamber.

We did a RIP move on Sunday and I sampled the water on Tuesday.
PH 8.18 (ordering calibration fluids for pinpoint monitor)
Ca: 434 - Hanna
Alk: 8.2 - Hanna
PO4: 0.89 - Hanna
Salinity: 1.024 - Hanna
Nitrate: 0 - API (I know, working to get NYOS, but they have been out of stock.)
NH3 0.001 - Seneye

I'm not concerned today about the PO4 as one point does not make a trend. I'll be monitoring the parameters weekly to look for trends. I don't want to chase numbers as much as chase healthy long living animals.

 

[FishTruck]

I read Paul Bs book too. I think the two most important take-away points are to 1 provide excellent nutrition with uncooked stuff from the Ocean and live foods - to promote healthy gut flora and biodiversity. Second, to maintain the live rock sand sand bed with some sort of regular agitation.