Shopping list for first build

HJ99

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We so far have picked up two tanks used. The DT is 125gal 72x18x21 and a 55g 48long 12 wide for the sump. The sump will be in the basement with a head height of about 8 ft. Here's what I have picked out so far. Pan World 50PX-X external return rated 1110gph 13ft head, Marine Depot HOB overfow rated 1200GPH with two 1"drains, Aquamax AF-1 filter roller rated 1320gph, two Ehiem Jager 150w heaters in sump with a controller. I know the HOB boxes aren't popular but the DT has a bright orange label TEMPERED GLASS DO NOT DRILL. I know there is a lot more to come but does this sound like a reasonable plan so far ?
 

T-J

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Couple of suggestions:
Your pump may not be a great choice. I went to their website and with 8 feet of head pressure, you're only going to be pushing around 400gph. Link to their curve is below.
Also, with almost 200g total system volume, I would go bigger with your heaters. I run a 120 display with around 30 gals in the sump, and I run 600w BRS heater.

http://www.panworldpump.com/downloa...1=50PX-X 60Hz (Curve)&ServerFilename2=catalog
 

neo1738

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Same concern you really want 10x volume actually moving w return so after head pressure want 1250gph movement. Also I have 600w heater for 100g DT and 40g Sump w a 300w backup heater. I would use 1 heater as a backup 1 150w for mixing salt water and get at least a 600w for main heater. Might get away w 300w total but only if on all the time and they will probably die quickly.
 
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HJ99

HJ99

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Thanks ! I was wondering about the head and couldn't find that info on the spec list. Going bigger on the heaters won't be a big deal but I would prefer two for the redundancy.
 

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Pan World is great, but I would go for more power to match the flow you need. I know you are already committed by purchasing the used DT. But if that DT (that cannot be drilled) is dictating several other decisions, I would reconsider whether you just buy, new, precisely what you want in a tank. So much in this hobby can be found used locally, as people upgrade lights, pumps, powerheads, etc. But tanks show wear and tear, and if it is not precisely what you want. I bought my tank pre-drilled for this reason.
 
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HJ99

HJ99

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Couple of suggestions:
Your pump may not be a great choice. I went to their website and with 8 feet of head pressure, you're only going to be pushing around 400gph. Link to their curve is below.
Also, with almost 200g total system volume, I would go bigger with your heaters. I run a 120 display with around 30 gals in the sump, and I run 600w BRS heater.

http://www.panworldpump.com/downloads.php?ServerFilename=20160713163953907.pdf&ServerFilename1=50PX-X 60Hz (Curve)&ServerFilename2=cataloLink doesn'twor

Couple of suggestions:
Your pump may not be a great choice. I went to their website and with 8 feet of head pressure, you're only going to be pushing around 400gph. Link to their curve is below.
Also, with almost 200g total system volume, I would go bigger with your heaters. I run a 120 display with around 30 gals in the sump, and I run 600w BRS heater.

http://www.panworldpump.com/downloads.php?ServerFilename=20160713163953907.pdf&ServerFilename1=50PX-X 60Hz (Curve)&ServerFilename2=catalog
Link doesn't work for some reason.
 
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HJ99

HJ99

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Here's the PDF of the head pressure curve.
Thanks, I found the website. From what I can tell from the graphs the 150PS would do about 900 at 8ft and the 200PS about 1500. I suppose it would be better to go with the 200PS and cut it back with a valve if needed ?
 
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HJ99

HJ99

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Pan World is great, but I would go for more power to match the flow you need. I know you are already committed by purchasing the used DT. But if that DT (that cannot be drilled) is dictating several other decisions, I would reconsider whether you just buy, new, precisely what you want in a tank. So much in this hobby can be found used locally, as people upgrade lights, pumps, powerheads, etc. But tanks show wear and tear, and if it is not precisely what you want. I bought my tank pre-drilled for this reason.
The wife says we are sticking with this. LOL I intended to drill it on the back side when I bought it but it had under gravel filters still in it so I didn't see the label. I've been researching and I'm pretty sure it's a Perfecto now Marineland. I've read threads that say only the bottom is tempered and that's where the label is. I also have read all the tests but haven't tried the sunglasses thing yet. I'm retired from autobody and I know what shattered tempered glass looks like. I figured I'd skip all the drama and use an HOB since there are testimonials from people using them for years with no issues. I also figured to keep the return sump section as small as possible and use a overflow sensor as an emergency shutoff.
 

T-J

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The wife says we are sticking with this. LOL I intended to drill it on the back side when I bought it but it had under gravel filters still in it so I didn't see the label. I've been researching and I'm pretty sure it's a Perfecto now Marineland. I've read threads that say only the bottom is tempered and that's where the label is. I also have read all the tests but haven't tried the sunglasses thing yet. I'm retired from autobody and I know what shattered tempered glass looks like. I figured I'd skip all the drama and use an HOB since there are testimonials from people using them for years with no issues. I also figured to keep the return sump section as small as possible and use a overflow sensor as an emergency shutoff.
You mentioned under gravel filters. Do you know if this tank was previously used for freshwater? If so, make absolutely sure that whoever had it NEVER used any copper based treatments in that tank.
 
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HJ99

HJ99

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You mentioned under gravel filters. Do you know if this tank was previously used for freshwater? If so, make absolutely sure that whoever had it NEVER used any copper based treatments in that tank.
yes that is what he used it for and I have no idea. In the stuff he gave me with it the only med I saw was aquarium salt. Are you saying treatments are absorbed into the glass ?
 

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yes that is what he used it for and I have no idea. In the stuff he gave me with it the only med I saw was aquarium salt. Are you saying treatments are absorbed into the glass ?
Possibly.
Make sure you have flow. Get some power heads or gyres.
Some of the best:

Ecotech Marine Mp40 or 60s
AI Nero 5
Maxspect Gyres
(They have a new Jump line but if your gonna get more than then you want their XF line which comes with a controller that you can plug 2 units into)
Reef breeders RPM
Sicce X-Stream


Personally I’d get 2 gyres and 1 or more MP40QD

Side note there are many gyres on the market but Maxspect is the original.
 

T-J

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yes that is what he used it for and I have no idea. In the stuff he gave me with it the only med I saw was aquarium salt. Are you saying treatments are absorbed into the glass ?
Not in the glass, but in the silicone seams. Copper can be absorbed into the silicone and leached back into the water. Personally, I have never used a freshwater tank to convert to saltwater because of this.
 
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HJ99

HJ99

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Not in the glass, but in the silicone seams. Copper can be absorbed into the silicone and leached back into the water. Personally, I have never used a freshwater tank to convert to saltwater because of this.
Oh OK. I'm resealing all the exposed silicone so that shouldn't be an issue. Thanks for the heads up.
 
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HJ99

HJ99

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So you're going to scrape off all the current silicone and reseal?
Yes. It doesn't leak now but it's loose at the edges and has some bubbles in it. I'm a retired autobody guy so not a big deal for me. I have more time than money. LOL
 
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HJ99

HJ99

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Good news ! I called Marineland which took over Perfecto. I described the tank and sticker in detail and the fellow , without hesitation, stated that only the bottom is tempered. I had read this on forums but thought I'd give a call. He sounded like it wasn't the first time he was asked. I'm still going to double check with the sunglasses trick but looks like I'll be drilling. Fingers crossed.
 

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