Should we rethink and refine means and methods for cycling tanks?

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LRT

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While I think about answers to your questions, what qualifies as a fully seasoned tile? What is it made of?
Ceramic as seen in this photo. Sat in sump for a cpl months before transfer. Been as how you see them under the lights with corals growing on them around 3-4 months.
Dont mind how dirty they look thats just how dirty the filters im using makes them appear. They do have coraline growing on them. I can also throw a few shrooms with rubble thats been in system around 2.5 years.
20211013_155516.jpg
 
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@Dan_P

I can do a cpl experimental tanks here but I'm shooting for something to closely mimmick your everyday bottle bac dry rock start up that we see on the boards.
Do you consider it would be cheating to use media from established system?
Maybe we could figure out bare minimum based on your surface area studies?
I'm not sure id even need bottle bac at all if I use the tiles either.
But I wanted to do a tank with biospora only because you have already done the work that could be easily applied.
I think any reefer here can source healthy corals with with plugs, discs or rubble stuck to them.
I dont want anyone saying the common reefer wouldn't be able to achieve same results.
 

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Yeah the terms being coined for certain things really are silly.
At the end of the day nothing has changed or is changing..
We are technically proving the old school method of "cycle" for "livestock ready" works and works super well.
If anything we may be able to prove just how super well and see just how using different methods may actually benefit the "cycle for fish ready" and maybe give folks a better idea of how much and how soon they can actually stock a tank.
I see countless threads on boards of tanks fully cycled, collecting algae with hardy any livestock in them.
What are we waiting for here in these tanks? Are we waiting for this bioload to magically appear on its own overnight?
Could it actually be more beneficial to reasonably stock these tanks. Using data we collect here. And get this macrobiodiversity in them to achieve what we are waiting for to magically appear?
@MnFish1 I almost posted your exact thoughts on how crazy it actually is that any of this is still under debate haha
I think folks are super nerdy, geeked out on certain things and highly passionate about it. Which makes it fun and interesting for me.
I think where @brandon429 is mostly passionate is the stuck cycles.
For validation I have seen in my own observance how the color charted kits really can show extremely high levels of ammonia, stuck, all the while seneye was tracking ammonia at super low concentrations. Sometimes in the thousandths. Same tank at same time. Ive seen others post same observances in real time so that much I can at least cosign. I have actually gone back and forth quite a few times on the validity and accuracy of some results even with Brandon in alot of threads. As Dan said the slides do age and degrade over time and it does need to be re calibrated for correct readings quite often. In @NeonRabbit221B work thread he did show inaccuracies and even issues with calibration but in controlled dosing threshold of the inaccuracies where lower than some ammonia levels that some folks are dosing reefs with to keep fuge healthy. It will be interesting to see how seneye tracks out with hanna checker.
All seneye is really good for, but really good for is showing the peak ammonia(whatever that may be) and tracking it back to 0. To me thats all I need to see to consider tank "cycle for fish ready" Let's see what hanna says with it in real time.
I didn’t read the post but the Hanna checker is freshwater correct?
 
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Why recent, it's been known for quite sometime. And why controversial, something is or isn't. I know I'm oversimplifying plus I think freshwater is often entry point into the hobby so there's a lot of carryover of practices without understanding reasons behind them.
I don't mean the topic is recent, but the discussion became refueled recently about the toxicity of nitrite and whether or not it is important to measure it specifically. Although there is long-term history behind the basic understanding, there seems to be recent controversy on importance of nitrite considerations and measurements specifically. If you read the linked threads and the contents of this thread, I think you will understand what I mean.

Your point about carry-over from freshwater and lack of understanding is exactly part of why there is discussion/controversy happening.
 
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@Dan_P

I can do a cpl experimental tanks here but I'm shooting for something to closely mimmick your everyday bottle bac dry rock start up that we see on the boards.
Do you consider it would be cheating to use media from established system?
Maybe we could figure out bare minimum based on your surface area studies?
I'm not sure id even need bottle bac at all if I use the tiles either.
But I wanted to do a tank with biospora only because you have already done the work that could be easily applied.
I think any reefer here can source healthy corals with with plugs, discs or rubble stuck to them.
I dont want anyone saying the common reefer wouldn't be able to achieve same results.
I just thinking the same thing as to transferring media is a completely different thing from starting with sterile rock, water and sand.
 

Lasse

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As insignificant as it truly was it was a recorded cycle by definition.
I try a last time. Because fully cycled is defined by that the nitrification process should happens seamless it was cycled minute 1 because you introduce a huge amount of biofilm that had the capacity to process the load from your 4 fish . Basically you only change the water and the shell around an already functional ecosystem. If you had introduce 50 fish and higher food input - it is not sure that the tank was fully cycled because the biomass of the biofilm may be to low for processing all of the produced NH4 even if the corals would help you to lower the load of NH4. Once again this is not new findings I have done it since the seventies

Sincerely Lasse
 

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@taricha briefly looked at the ammonia oxidizing capability of his aquarium and I believe samples of his sand bed. I am looking at the same thing for Bio-Spira biofilms on glass microscope slides and slides coated with aragonite sand. This gives me the cababilty to measure the ammonia consumption for a fixed surface area.
Dan, did you ever see anything that showed a surface area limit to the nitrifier population? Everything I saw starting up my dry sand mini tanks with biospira was that as I kept adding ammonia, the nitrification rate of a few mL of surface sand kept going up.
when I quitadding ammonia, I could put 2mL of sand in 100mL of water (2% sand) and it would nitrify 2.5ppm ammonia/day.

I'm sure at some point if you dump enough ammonia in, that it becomes surface area or O2 diffusion-limited. But I don't think we're near there in reef tank stocking. I think that's wastewater treatment regime.


Calculation of bioload capability is known. Ditto for how much ammonia to expect from fish. I don’t know about other organisms like snails and crabs. I wonder if you can estimate the initial capability of a new system from the rate of ammonia consumption per hour and compare that produced by inches of fish.

This could be invaluable and bet we could come up with a really good way to estimate the initial capability of a new system from the rate of ammonia consumption per hour and compare that produced by inches of fish. Among other things.
fish don't make up their own ammonia, right? they use the N from food and we can ballpark ~80% of it gets re-released as ammonia. I think It's much easier to count the N going in from food (measure mass, read labels) , than to try to account for the N release by body mass of fish+inverts. right?
 
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I just thinking the same thing as to transferring media is a completely different thing from starting with sterile rock, water and sand.
Yeah one tank has to be something simple that any reefer can duplicate.
The other will utilize methods to accelerate.
 

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Ceramic as seen in this photo. Sat in sump for a cpl months before transfer. Been as how you see them under the lights with corals growing on them around 3-4 months.
Dont mind how dirty they look thats just how dirty the filters im using makes them appear. They do have coraline growing on them. I can also throw a few shrooms with rubble thats been in system around 2.5 years.
20211013_155516.jpg
Got it. The biofilm on those tiles is probably nothing like the sterile surface of a new system. I want to but have yet to see what happens when Bio-Spira meets such a surface. My guess is it will not do well. Those ceramic times might consume ammonia but produce no nitrite or nitrate. I have yet to grow a nitrifying biofilm on a clean surface by placing it in my aquarium.
 

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@Dan_P

I can do a cpl experimental tanks here but I'm shooting for something to closely mimmick your everyday bottle bac dry rock start up that we see on the boards.
Do you consider it would be cheating to use media from established system?
Maybe we could figure out bare minimum based on your surface area studies?
I'm not sure id even need bottle bac at all if I use the tiles either.
But I wanted to do a tank with biospora only because you have already done the work that could be easily applied.
I think any reefer here can source healthy corals with with plugs, discs or rubble stuck to them.
I dont want anyone saying the common reefer wouldn't be able to achieve same results.
Media from an established aquarium might not be a suitable surface for nitrifying bacteria to colonize. I am still trying to sort this out though. You might find that the cultured tiles don’t take up much ammonia. If you try though, I ‘d be interested in what you observe. You don’t have to set up an aquarium. Just a container big enough to hold the tiles, and cover them with water and aerate. I found that established biofilms can be disturbed by a change in water, say aquarium water to Instant Ocean, and will start producing ammonia. So do the experiment in ammonia spiked water from where the tiles came from.

To give Bio-Spira the best chance and mimic a new system, start with clean surfaces. I imagine a thin layer of clean aragonite would be more than sufficient to determine whether a robust nitrifying biofilm can be established in a couple days. Glass and plastic could work too but I found aragonite sand out performs just glass. Don’t know why yet.

I think @taricha has stopped in already, but I am calling this topic to his attention.
 

Dan_P

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Dan, did you ever see anything that showed a surface area limit to the nitrifier population? Everything I saw starting up my dry sand mini tanks with biospira was that as I kept adding ammonia, the nitrification rate of a few mL of surface sand kept going up.
when I quitadding ammonia, I could put 2mL of sand in 100mL of water (2% sand) and it would nitrify 2.5ppm ammonia/day.

I'm sure at some point if you dump enough ammonia in, that it becomes surface area or O2 diffusion-limited. But I don't think we're near there in reef tank stocking. I think that's wastewater treatment regime.





fish don't make up their own ammonia, right? they use the N from food and we can ballpark ~80% of it gets re-released as ammonia. I think It's much easier to count the N going in from food (measure mass, read labels) , than to try to account for the N release by body mass of fish+inverts. right?
I have not pushed my biofilms to see if they max out. Still trying to get my biofilm on glass to catch up to biofilm on aragonite, which is kinda like trying to max it out. Definitely will look at that next.

Yes, use daily food input to estimate ammonia production.

How important is a nitrifying biofilm in a well lit established aquarium?
 

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How important is a nitrifying biofilm in a well lit established aquarium?
Its more sensitive than most people think but how important it is another question. In a total new aquarium - the only ammonia producer is the fish (if you start with a fish like I do) In a well established aquarium the breakdown of organic matter by the heterotrophic bacteria is more important for the ammonia production on daily bases than the fish - IMO. That´s important because the most ammonia production from fish is around 15 - 120 minutes post feeding but the ammonia production from heterotrophic bacteria is 7/24/365. In my aquarium with a high load of photosynthetic bacteria and reversed photo period for my refugium an ammonia molecule probably have a rather low surviving period. But there is a lot of FO aquarium out there that not get help from photosynthetic organisms. Because that I have followed my NO2 concentrations for a while (with Hanna nitrite checker and Lab analyses) I have seen that my NO2 concentration vary between 0 and 0.05. I have also a denitrification filter in my aquarium - hence a risk for NO2 spill from incomplete denitrification. The second step is the most sensitive in the process and variation in the NO2 concentration can indicate the health of an aquariums microbiological ecosystem - IMO

Sincerely Lasse
 

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Its more sensitive than most people think but how important it is another question. In a total new aquarium - the only ammonia producer is the fish (if you start with a fish like I do) In a well established aquarium the breakdown of organic matter by the heterotrophic bacteria is more important for the ammonia production on daily bases than the fish - IMO. That´s important because the most ammonia production from fish is around 15 - 120 minutes post feeding but the ammonia production from heterotrophic bacteria is 7/24/365. In my aquarium with a high load of photosynthetic bacteria and reversed photo period for my refugium an ammonia molecule probably have a rather low surviving period. But there is a lot of FO aquarium out there that not get help from photosynthetic organisms. Because that I have followed my NO2 concentrations for a while (with Hanna nitrite checker and Lab analyses) I have seen that my NO2 concentration vary between 0 and 0.05. I have also a denitrification filter in my aquarium - hence a risk for NO2 spill from incomplete denitrification. The second step is the most sensitive in the process and variation in the NO2 concentration can indicate the health of an aquariums microbiological ecosystem - IMO

Sincerely Lasse
What do you think about the following? NO2 can be present if there is a sudden burst of ammonia oxidation and the nitrite oxidizing bacteria cannot keep up (in saltwater they seem to grow more slowly than the ammonia oxidizers). The other possibility is there is no burst in ammonia oxidation but something is affecting nitrite oxidation. Which might be the more likely reason for the presence of NO2 In an aquarium?
 

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Ceramic as seen in this photo. Sat in sump for a cpl months before transfer. Been as how you see them under the lights with corals growing on them around 3-4 months.
Dont mind how dirty they look thats just how dirty the filters im using makes them appear. They do have coraline growing on them. I can also throw a few shrooms with rubble thats been in system around 2.5 years.
20211013_155516.jpg
I keep seeing this picture of Ric’s and Shroom’s…let’s get some difficult Acro’s in that tank and put it to the test. :)

IDK man, those tiles look very dirty with a lot of Vermetid snails. Hehe ;Hilarious
 

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What do you think about the following? NO2 can be present if there is a sudden burst of ammonia oxidation and the nitrite oxidizing bacteria cannot keep up (in saltwater they seem to grow more slowly than the ammonia oxidizers). The other possibility is there is no burst in ammonia oxidation but something is affecting nitrite oxidation. Which might be the more likely reason for the presence of NO2 In an aquarium?
The first mechanism absolutely happens. Usually, when I challenge some nitrifying material with ammonia - the ammonia oxidizers respond first and there is a lag of multiple days during which nitrite is measurable - before the nitrite oxidizers catch up. This doesn't always happen though. Sometimes if the ammonia challenge is low enough, nitrite oxidiation capability stays caught up and NO2 is not observed though ammonia drops and NO3 increases.
(this mechanism, though can't explain the persistent low and variable amount of nitrite that both you and @Lasse have observed.)
Other mechanisms I'd just have to speculate on. I wonder if the nitrite being such a transient species and a narrow niche for microbes means that in some systems, nitrite oxidizers have basically faded into nonexistence. (aquabiomics finds no nitrite oxidizers in like half the tested systems).
 

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The first mechanism absolutely happens. Usually, when I challenge some nitrifying material with ammonia - the ammonia oxidizers respond first and there is a lag of multiple days during which nitrite is measurable - before the nitrite oxidizers catch up. This doesn't always happen though. Sometimes if the ammonia challenge is low enough, nitrite oxidiation capability stays caught up and NO2 is not observed though ammonia drops and NO3 increases.
(this mechanism, though can't explain the persistent low and variable amount of nitrite that both you and @Lasse have observed.)
Other mechanisms I'd just have to speculate on. I wonder if the nitrite being such a transient species and a narrow niche for microbes means that in some systems, nitrite oxidizers have basically faded into nonexistence. (aquabiomics finds no nitrite oxidizers in like half the tested systems).
Good reminder about Aquabiomic findings. I imagine, but don’t know for sure, that the AOB and NOB bacteria co-exist in the same biofilm. If this is true, I don’t understand how AOB but not NOB are detected. Is there another bacteria in the biofilm that uses NO2 faster than NOB organisms? I might try placing a nitrifying biofilm into the aquarium and monitor what happens to its NOB activity.
 

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Good reminder about Aquabiomic findings. I imagine, but don’t know for sure, that the AOB and NOB bacteria co-exist in the same biofilm. If this is true, I don’t understand how AOB but not NOB are detected. Is there another bacteria in the biofilm that uses NO2 faster than NOB organisms? I might try placing a nitrifying biofilm into the aquarium and monitor what happens to its NOB activity.
good questions. I feel safe arguing that nature is going to demand that NOB populations cluster around the locations where the Nitrite is generated (so ought to be tight correlations with AOB).
The near-absence of NOB might point to how small a percent of ammonia actually enters the classical nitrogen cycle.
 

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I'm thinking 10 gallons. If we can put solid #'s to the questions asked we should have at least a good base we can scale up from.
I'm taking corals from recent instastock shroom lagoon tank. This tank recently went through full system transfer and is what got me thinking about all this to begin with. I'm seeing some pretty amazing things with this transfer tank that im hoping to replicate with a brand new start up tank.
20211015_063648.jpg

Thats great. I was thinking about this over the last day or two - what in very curious about is what would constitute a ‘biodiverse environment’ - and I’m wondering if replication or coralline aglae would be a reliable indicator of this.
I’m also curious as to what is required to support coralline algae. We know the environment needs to be more mature - but what specifically is the support mechanism and trigger. Further to this question in my mind would be - if we think coralline is a sufficient bio marker of biodiversity - does truly insta-cycle and additional of X coral density per gallon result in a faster achievement of coralline algae.
 

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What do you think about the following? NO2 can be present if there is a sudden burst of ammonia oxidation and the nitrite oxidizing bacteria cannot keep up (in saltwater they seem to grow more slowly than the ammonia oxidizers). The other possibility is there is no burst in ammonia oxidation but something is affecting nitrite oxidation. Which might be the more likely reason for the presence of NO2 In an aquarium?
Thast´s the normal explanation and I know that it is true even at a given and stable load of ammonia. We can´t see this is in aquaria because our measurements tools are not sensitive enough. However - I have measure the ammonia and nitrite oxidation in several fish farms - hour for hours during 24 hours cycle. The pattern was this. Feed start 8:00 and continue to 20:00 - feed frequency - every 10 minutes. Ammonia start to rise around 1/2 hour after first feed and rise during the whole day till around 1/2 an hour after the last feed slowly going down to the same amount as the day before at 08:00. Nitrite follow the same cycle but around another 1/2 hour later than the ammonia graph. At 21:00 nitrite start to drop till it at 08:00 the next day was the same as the day before normal 0 for both parameters. Because the feeding only was between 8 - 20 we could not get down the concentrations to zero during feeding time. The population of nitrifier was determined of the whole load of food in 24 hours

However - there is a lot of studies that show the free ammonia (NH3) is capable to suppress the second step (NOB). the studies have been done in freshwater and at higher NH3 levels that you normally have in saltwater - but I do not know the needed concentrations in saltwater
I don’t understand how AOB but not NOB are detected. Is there another bacteria in the biofilm that uses NO2 faster than NOB organisms? I
NOB can be species that´s not is sequenced yet hence you can´t see them. I do not no which species DNA the analyze use. I know of two different families of NOB - nitrobacter and nitrospira. There can be more. These families consist of many different species of which there may be many where the genome is not sequenced

In saltwater not only AOB is important in the first step - AOA (Ammonia Oxidizing Archaea)are probably more important , especially for the speed this process have in the start

Sometimes if the ammonia challenge is low enough, nitrite oxidiation capability stays caught up and NO2 is not observed though ammonia drops and NO3 increases.
This is the base for my 15 steps - i have observed this for many years. This is the safest method in order to establish a good nitrification cycle (cycle the aquarium) You get a seamless transition - and you can increase the load a little a day and it will still be seamless. This is the reason why I´m against this ideas with adding a lot of ammonia day 1, 3 and so on. It is only create a stalled nitrification cycle. If you want to do it the chemical way - add trace amounts of ammonia and rise it very little each third day. If you want to do it with fish - follow the 15 steps

Sincerely Lasse
 
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