Discussion in 'Reef Aquarium Discussion' started by Broadfield, Oct 27, 2015.
I was feeling all proud of myself until I saw the last post
That there is some sexy plumbing! ️
Looks really nice. What are all those reactors?
I had the EXACT same issue and ended up using touch up paint from my car to cover the holes in the black vinyl. I cut small pieces of rubber from bicycle tubes about 4 inches long and put those underneath the thumbscrews so they don’t do that again.
Thanks. That's what I ended up doing. Doesn't match exactly but if I didn't point it out you wouldn't see the touch up areas.
I'm finishing up the plumbing and getting my new 525 ready for water this coming weekend. The Red Sea ATO just doesn't give me a really good feeling of confidence in it. I guess it's the gravity feed and the float that make me nervous. Does it work OK? Any mods need to be done to make it reliable? Or should I just get an optical ATO?
Worked on the 525 some more today. Maxspect Ethereal lights are up, power conditioner is in and connected to a dedicated GFI circuit, battery back up is in, Sicce pump is in place, aquascape is done (I think), got an e-mail from the LFS owner that the gyre 250's arrived, skimmer goes in the sump tomorrow, then the plumbing and wiring gets cleaned up and labeled.
What do you think of the rock formation? The pictures don't really show all of the caves, tunnels, etc., properly. It's set up so the gyres will be mounted on the back glass and there's a lot of flow channels front to back to minimize dead spots. The rock is elevated on 3/4" PVC tees with most cut in half (open "L" shapes parallel to the bottom) to avoid dead spots in the substrate and make it easier for the future sand sifters to move around without crashing the rock down.
The plan is to put the water in this coming weekend. I'm hoping it will be a good New Year!
I’ve yet to have any issues with mine. I did remove the silly flow adjuster that comes on it stock as I found it wildly unnecessary and head it tends to get blocked by salt creep.
I used two optical sensors and a solenoid on mine to allow my RO tank to fill it up as needed.
Only gripe is that it makes it hard to reach the return pump section of the sump. This has been the major reason for a lot of people when it comes for removal of the reservoir.
I kept ATO in place and full, but I don’t use it. It’s just a redundancy to maintain the level and protect the return in case my regular float switch/litermeter ATO goes empty or fails for some reason. I don’t have a need for the space and I like redundancy so it stays for now.
save yourself some money and go with the 230's, I have two on my 525xl and I don't even need to turn them above 50%.
Thanks. I think I'll leave it for now and see what happens. The tubing on mine seems very long. It actually drapes down into the sump. I'm guessing it needs to be a straighter line to the float valve since it's gravity feed?
Mine became much shorter when I removed the adjustment valve
I'll try that tonight.
I would not put my rocks on PVC. Over time you'll knock them off moving something around in the tank. I should have put a sheet of plastic down like Mike Paletta did in his ELOS build because the rocks slide on the glass bottom easily.
The rocks aren't sitting loose on the PVC. I used Instant Ocean aquarium epoxy and put three to five pieces on the bottom of each rock to secure them and made sure none of them wobble in the least.
I was looking over what you did here and was wondering why you went up to 1” for the drain lines. Was trying to save a few bucks in plumbing supplies by using 3/4” all the way to the sump but if there is an advantage to going up to 1” I will do that. Thanks!!
Edit. It says on the first paragraph you can use 3/4. This means you need a different fitting since the one shared is threads to 1” slip. I went with the 1”.
Run into a little issue trying to connect return line to pump.
Jebao pump has those two adapters, one is too big, can't slide the pump on it, even after heating up the pipe it's impossible.
The other is much bigger, for now I slid the pipe inside adapter to run leak test on whole aquarium.
Any adapters or ideas on how to tackle this ?
You'll need an adapter to 5/8". I found one at my LFS because they know that Red Sea has this really weird size. I'm not sure if yours is 5/8", but that's what mine was.
Look for a 5/8" barb adapters. They're really hard to find. I found some on amazon that cost a lot, and you have to get a lot of like 15. I got mine for $5 from the LFS. They ordered a bunch exactly for this reason.
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