Show Off and Discuss Your Red Sea Reefer Series

Discussion in 'Reef Aquarium Discussion' started by Broadfield, Oct 27, 2015.

  1. Bob The Reefer

    Bob The Reefer Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Thanks - I grasped that there are 3 adjustments possible but I thought that the arm moved independently of the tube ..... will rush off home and check ...... time to leave the office
     
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  2. revhtree

    revhtree Owner Administrator Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Photo of the Month Award Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    Keep the tanks and updates coming!
     
  3. PaulK

    PaulK Member

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    I have a reef octopus regal 150 on my 525. It’s raised on a 2.5” stand. Works wonderfully; here’s three days of skimmate. image.jpg
     
  4. jwt1603

    jwt1603 Active Member Partner Member 2018

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    How long did it take to 'break in"?
     
  5. PaulK

    PaulK Member

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    Just a couple of days. I ran it in a water vinegar mix for an hour before installing—that’s supposed to help break it in faster.
     
  6. mta_morrow

    mta_morrow It costs HOW much?!!! R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Build Thread Contributor

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    New maxspect razorX on my 525!
    Hope to be wet this weekend.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
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  7. Kryssie

    Kryssie Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Can you raise it up with some MarinePure or some egg crate?
     
  8. drkcurrent

    drkcurrent Member

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    Quick question... What is the size of the main return line on the reefer 250?

    I just ordered a new custom sump and I would like hard plumb the return to the right back corner of the tank. Just put in a 90 below the adjuster and run it to the right.
     
  9. Bob The Reefer

    Bob The Reefer Member Build Thread Contributor

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    It seems that, in my case, patience was the key .... skimmer seems to have settled down now and is producing some appropriately grimy gunk. Thanks to all who offered advice.
     
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  10. mta_morrow

    mta_morrow It costs HOW much?!!! R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Build Thread Contributor

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    Scape is finally in! Lots of room for coral, caves and swim throughs for the fish, and room to clean all around.

    Sand goes in today, water tomorrow!
     
  11. ryboy707

    ryboy707 Active Member

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    20180202_111050.jpg 20180201_194303.jpg
    In case anyone needs to know, the adapter you'll need to hard plumb the reefer 250 is 3/4" with about 11 wraps of Teflon tape. The hose barb fitting that the reefer comes with is threaded.
     
  12. Philt56

    Philt56 Active Member

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    I just got my 425xl. If you are using tubing with the barb on the return pipe, are you using 3/4” or 1”? Looks like the top half of the barb fitting is 3/4” and the bottom half is 1”. My vectra pump has a 3/4” barb on it but I can change if 1” will make a difference in the flow.

    Also trying to decide whether to use silicone or black vinyl tubing. Any recomendion? Sounds like the silicon would be more flexible.
     
  13. jwt1603

    jwt1603 Active Member Partner Member 2018

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    I tried the black on my 525 but it was way too stiff to work a smooth radius turn in it. The semi clear silicone worked much better. My Vectra M1 feeds a 3.4 barb fitting and I have plenty of flow. I'm only running the M1 at about 50%.
     
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  14. Daltrey

    Daltrey Valuable Member Build Thread Contributor

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    I hard plumbed my 750xxl using all 1 inch pvc and no reducers. My vectra m1 runs at 100%.

    20180118_204227.jpg

    20180116_201140.jpg

    20180116_191728.jpg
     
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  15. mta_morrow

    mta_morrow It costs HOW much?!!! R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Build Thread Contributor

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    Wet at last!
    [​IMG]
     
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  16. Kavo11

    Kavo11 Active Member Build Thread Contributor

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    @Broadfield

    I noticed that you do not have a gate/ball valve on your return line to the tank. Do you adjust all flow via the pump/Apex? Just wondering if additional adjustment on the return via a gate/ball valve may be helpful to account for the various reactors since you are not always running all three of them.

    I also do not see a check valve to prevent back siphoning, how do you guard against that?
     
  17. mta_morrow

    mta_morrow It costs HOW much?!!! R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Build Thread Contributor

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    2 battery operated LEDs at BBB. $4.99 each. Velcro mounted above sump!
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
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  18. finallysalty

    finallysalty Member

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    625 xxl getting up and running. Been a long time coming. Finally![​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
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  19. Broadfield

    Broadfield Red Sea Reefer Consultant... Non Affiliated R2R Supporter Reef Squad R2R Excellence Award Reef Spotlight Award Photo of the Month Award Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    Unless you are using a grossly oversized, non-adjustable pump, then there's no reason to have a valve. If it's a controllable DC pump, then the flow is adjusted from its controller. If it's an AC pump, then it may have a flow adjuster on the inlet... like the Sicce Syncra Silent does. If there is no adjustment at all and it's not mega oversized, then just let it rip. Or just purchase a pump that is of the appropriate size for your needs. I always run my DC pumps at 100%. Even if I have all three reactors offline, then I still just let it ride at 100%. I then simply adjust the drain valve to match the flow of the pump. However, if I'm not using a reactor, I still run water through it... that way water does not get stagnate at the inlet to the reactor. But yeah, if you have a huge non-adjustable pump, then a valve will throttle it back just fine.

    As for no check valve, I prefer my setup to back siphon. When doing a water change, I drain the sump for my change. Since it back siphons, it fills the sump up more... so I get a slightly larger water change.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2018
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  20. Kavo11

    Kavo11 Active Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Thanks! No concern of overflowing the sump in case of a power failure with no check valve in place?
     
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