jdTrader
Active Member
Hello fellow Red Sea Reefers! Brand new to the site, signed up today. Picked up my 525XL. Looking forward to updating my progress on youtube and here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/jonas-red-sea-reefer-525xl.357255/
Show Off and Discuss Your Red Sea Reefer Series
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jsker
Reefing is all about the adventure
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Welcome to R2R, Congratulations on the 525
mta_morrow
Of course I have room for 1 more fish!
Welcome to R2R! Sweet tank!
Bob The Reefer
Community Member
Yesterday I printed out one of these to split the return flow on my 350 and was impressed with the way it softens the flow without changing the volume. Today I printed another one with the "spare tyre" added to give a positive stop in the return nozzle. It wants a bit of a clean up and some PTFE tape but should be fine 
drawman
2500 Club Member
That's awesome! Is it threaded?Yesterday I printed out one of these to split the return flow on my 350 and was impressed with the way it softens the flow without changing the volume. Today I printed another one with the "spare tyre" added to give a positive stop in the return nozzle. It wants a bit of a clean up and some PTFE tape but should be fine
Looking for suggestions on MP40 placement on my reefer 250 eventually wanting SPS, but i'm prolly going to stick with LPS for now.
I'm thinking mostly montipora on the right side with MAYBE something else. Right side would be the higher demanding flow for SPS.
I'm thinking mostly montipora on the right side with MAYBE something else. Right side would be the higher demanding flow for SPS.
Bob The Reefer
Community Member
No just a push-fit like the original straight thingy
Faraday
Community Member
Yesterday I printed out one of these to split the return flow on my 350 and was impressed with the way it softens the flow without changing the volume. Today I printed another one with the "spare tyre" added to give a positive stop in the return nozzle. It wants a bit of a clean up and some PTFE tape but should be fine
Sweet! Can you share the stl file for this design?
Bob The Reefer
Community Member
Sure here you go ..... needs about 4 turns of PTFE ..... non-commercial use only please
Bob The Reefer
Community Member
Philt56
Active Member
If it is 48” wide then it’s a 350. The 250 is 36”.A picture of the current plumbing and sump would be really benefical to offer some concrete advice. Generally the flexible tubing connections can be replaced with hard pvc connections, but without seeing what you have, its hard to make a recommendation.
I plan to use 3/4” hose which connects to the return outlet perfectly and also the barb on my vectra M1. I bought 3/4” ID silicon hose from amazon which flexes nicely without kinks like the stiffer vinyl tubing sold at hardware stores. I also got 1” nylon clamps to hold the tubing on the barbs more securely.
Philt56
Active Member
For those of you that have the custom lids made for their tank with cutouts for the radion mounts, how closely did you have them make the cutout? Did you cut the tightening screw on the mount so that it only goes up to inside edge? Were they able to make the cutout so it wraps closely around that notch or do i need to cut straight across and have that gap? See second attachment.
Rick Krejci
Active Member
I just raised the Radion mount up a hair from the glass lip and just kept it to a very small cutout with the clamp part only, avoiding the issue altogether. I also had them make the tabs a bit thicker and have it stick into the tank only 1/8" rather than the standard 1/4" so I could leave the overflow lid on. All fit perfectly (used Octo Aquatics)For those of you that have the custom lids made for their tank with cutouts for the radion mounts, how closely did you have them make the cutout? Did you cut the tightening screw on the mount so that it only goes up to inside edge? Were they able to make the cutout so it wraps closely around that notch or do i need to cut straight across and have that gap? See second attachment.
Rick Krejci
Active Member
I put both of mine about the same height as yours but on the back wall. Really helps with no dead spots since they work with the nozzle flow to create a gyre like flow. Can't have them too strong though or the sand will blow in the front. I can go about 35-45%, which is a lot of flow for the 250 really.Looking for suggestions on MP40 placement on my reefer 250 eventually wanting SPS, but i'm prolly going to stick with LPS for now.
I'm thinking mostly montipora on the right side with MAYBE something else. Right side would be the higher demanding flow for SPS.
Philt56
Active Member
Gotcha! Thanks I see now that part would be above the lid, so I just actually need the cutout to allow the max depth of the inside lip.
mta_morrow
Of course I have room for 1 more fish!
Just flipped the switch on a new maxspect razorX
Philt56
Active Member
Can you lift the lid off completely without messing with the arms? For doing sand cleaning, aquascaping, etc.
I was thinking of doing the ecotech multi light track, so the arms would be midway on the tank sides. I was thinking with this config I could lift the lid up and push it straight back about half way and it would be resting on the overflow lid while doing cleaning.
Thanks
Rick Krejci
Active Member
With the arms in the back, yes...just lift the front and slide the lid forward an inch and it pops off. For the sides, you'd probably have to raise the arms a little more (like 3/8" from the glass lip) so the lid could slide back easily. Could put a spacer to sit on the glass under the clamp to keep the arm up a little higher but still be sturdy.
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