Philt56

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With the arms in the back, yes...just lift the front and slide the lid forward an inch and it pops off. For the sides, you'd probably have to raise the arms a little more (like 3/8" from the glass lip) so the lid could slide back easily. Could put a spacer to sit on the glass under the clamp to keep the arm up a little higher but still be sturdy.
Thanks!
 

jwt1603

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Anyone using Maxspect Ethereal lights on a 525? I don't seem to be able to get the settings right to keep all the corals happy.
 

jwt1603

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"Oh and got this in today I'm going to try on the new 425. Don't expect it to be nearly as nice as the artfully acrylic one I had on the 250, but for $55 I think it's worth a shot."

Please let us know what you think of it. I'm currently shopping for a lid for our 525. Specifically, fro me anyway, what do you think of the cross brace in the center? Does it interfere with the lighting?

Also, where did you get it?
 

Philt56

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Can someone share what measurements they provided for the cutouts on a lid for a Radeon arm mount? Or if the lid manufacturer did it on their own when you told them it was for a Radeon? If so, can you measure the cutout and post? One place wants me to provide the measurements myself. Not sure if the cut should extend all the way where the screw sticks out (red markup) or only the clamp part (blue markup).

Thanks again

FA6C3E04-8F34-4BF2-A847-F60EA665A63E.jpeg
 

Rick Krejci

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Can someone share what measurements they provided for the cutouts on a lid for a Radeon arm mount? Or if the lid manufacturer did it on their own when you told them it was for a Radeon? If so, can you measure the cutout and post? One place wants me to provide the measurements myself. Not sure if the cut should extend all the way where the screw sticks out (red markup) or only the clamp part (blue markup).

Thanks again

FA6C3E04-8F34-4BF2-A847-F60EA665A63E.jpeg
If you want the arm to sit on the glass, you'll have to do the larger cutout, and probably even the screw if you want to be able to lift the lid up at all.

If you sit the arm about 1/4-3/8" off the glass using a spacer of some sort, then you can do the smaller cutout and could lift the lid enough to slide it under the screw.

Here is the picture I provided Matt at Octo Aquatics and it fit great, but I had the brackets behind the tank rather than on the side.

Here were the instructions I sent him:
"Lets go 1/8” inside the tank (thus ¼” above the glass rim). I should be good to go without cutting out for the overflow, even with the overflow lid on. And I can raise the RX15 mounts ¼” to keep the light mount cutouts minimal. Please see attached revised drawing…should look nice and clean and tight and will hopefully make it easier to get the netting more evenly tight"

IMG_0286.JPG
 

Philt56

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If you want the arm to sit on the glass, you'll have to do the larger cutout, and probably even the screw if you want to be able to lift the lid up at all.

If you sit the arm about 1/4-3/8" off the glass using a spacer of some sort, then you can do the smaller cutout and could lift the lid enough to slide it under the screw.

Here is the picture I provided Matt at Octo Aquatics and it fit great, but I had the brackets behind the tank rather than on the side.

Here were the instructions I sent him:
"Lets go 1/8” inside the tank (thus ¼” above the glass rim). I should be good to go without cutting out for the overflow, even with the overflow lid on. And I can raise the RX15 mounts ¼” to keep the light mount cutouts minimal. Please see attached revised drawing…should look nice and clean and tight and will hopefully make it easier to get the netting more evenly tight"

IMG_0286.JPG
What did you mean by “go 1/8” inside the tank)? Do they need the inside dimensions at all? If you turn the lid upside down, is there a lip at all or is it completely smooth? So barring any obstructions like a light mount, the lid just sits on the top tank edges, there no clips or anything that keeps it from sliding around? I’m not worried about it sliding (or getting knocked) off, just want to understand so I don’t goof up an order.

I’m assuming all these shops essentially model them the same way.
 

Rick Krejci

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What did you mean by “go 1/8” inside the tank)? Do they need the inside dimensions at all? If you turn the lid upside down, is there a lip at all or is it completely smooth? So barring any obstructions like a light mount, the lid just sits on the top tank edges, there no clips or anything that keeps it from sliding around? I’m not worried about it sliding (or getting knocked) off, just want to understand so I don’t goof up an order.

I’m assuming all these shops essentially model them the same way.
The lid is a piece of acrylic 3/8" thick with tabs to hold it above the glass. It's made to fit partially inside the tank with the tabs above the glass. By default, those tabs are 1/8" which means the lid would set with 1/4" below the glass lip. I chose to have the tabs be 1/4" thick, which would make the lid only go 1/8" inside the tank, which would allow the lid to be above the overflow with the overflow lid on.

You do need to give him glass thickness, but the rest of the dimensions are to the outside edges

Here's the cad drawing Matt sent me before starting on the lid

krejci.jpg
 

finallysalty

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Loving the XXL 625. It was surprisingly easy to get zoned it. The main drain valve was stuck out of the box but easy enough to fix. Apex up and running, much better ATO than the stock one. Still need to do some wire management but very impressed so far with the Red Sea Reefer!
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blkhwkz

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Don't think I have ever posted any pics of my XL425 or at least not in a long time. Took some quick cell phone shots. One of these days, I will have my wife break out her DSLR and take some nicer pics without the reflections and stuff in some of these. Need to get some harlequin shrimp to take care of all these asterina starfish on the glass. Tank was supposed to be SPS and clams only, but few random corals in there from when I was saving frags from an issue in another tank. The torch has gotten so big I might just leave it in there. The toadstool in the back outgrew another tank and is pretty much getting to big for this one now.

Lighting is T5's, 4 B+ and 4 C+ with a ReefBrite XHO blue strip.
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jp_75

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Finally joining the Red Sea club! I just put an order on XL 425. What return pump would you recommend?
 

Philt56

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I will be filling my 425 this week. I got a Simplicity 240 skimmer for it. Not sure if I will need to put it on a platform since the sump water level is so high. The other I’m wondering is how to tune it. My other tank has a Reef octopus 110 and you just turn the tube to adjust the water height in the skimmer column. The simplicity has the same plus a dc pump which is adjustable. Do I run the pump full power and then adjust with the tube or do I need to adjust both the pump and tube?
 

finallysalty

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I will be filling my 425 this week. I got a Simplicity 240 skimmer for it. Not sure if I will need to put it on a platform since the sump water level is so high. The other I’m wondering is how to tune it. My other tank has a Reef octopus 110 and you just turn the tube to adjust the water height in the skimmer column. The simplicity has the same plus a dc pump which is adjustable. Do I run the pump full power and then adjust with the tube or do I need to adjust both the pump and tube?
Probably will need a platform. My reef octopus is dead on the suggested sump high when running but I had to put two pieces of egg crate under it to get right.

The main return is adjustable, so your pump will depend on the flow you want. The return pump on my 625 only runs at 30% and is very quite.
 

jp_75

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I already have few things like:2 Radions XR30, MP 40, Gyre Maxspect and Nyos Quantum 160.
Now have to decide what return pipe, socks( mesh or felt?) and heaters...
 

Philt56

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Probably will need a platform. My reef octopus is dead on the suggested sump high when running but I had to put two pieces of egg crate under it to get right.

The main return is adjustable, so your pump will depend on the flow you want. The return pump on my 625 only runs at 30% and is very quite.
I meant the pump on the skimmer not the return. I checked Simplicity’s web site, they say run the pump at full speed, so I guess just adjust with the tube and air intake.
 

jp_75

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No socks at all?
Also, where you getting customized net covers?
 

High pressure shells: Do you look for signs of stress in the invertebrates in your reef tank?

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