Show Off and Discuss Your Red Sea Reefer Series

CDavmd · Jul 6, 2018

Dolelo96 said:
Your setup looks great! My problem is how can you design a manifold when you don’t even understand how all the parts work? I stood in front of a wall of pvc fittings and my eyes glazed over. I’ve seen some great setups, but was hoping to find a “parts list”. I have a pump, skimmer & 2 reactors I want to plumb. Also want a better way to control fluctuating water level in overflow.

I’ll try to get you the parts list for my manifold. May take a couple days as I’m working this weekend.

You basically want to do what I did. It’s really not that hard.

Dolelo96 · Jul 7, 2018

CDavmd said:
I’ll try to get you the parts list for my manifold. May take a couple days as I’m working this weekend.

You basically want to do what I did. It’s really not that hard.

That will be awesome! I’m sure with the pieces I can figure it out from there. Thank you so much

powers2001 · Jul 7, 2018

Z3speed4me said:
I think a piece is still in the works but Broadfield has gone dark; prob busy with his business which totally makes sense

Does anyone else know anything about this piece? Will it be 3D printed?

CDavmd · Jul 7, 2018

Dolelo96 said:
That will be awesome! I’m sure with the pieces I can figure it out from there. Thank you so much

So question as I write up the list-

-are you using flow meters? As you can see in my build thread I am using two.
-do you want to have the option as I do, to recirculate within the sump or simply have a manifold for the reactors. If you do not need to recirculate, then the entire right side of my manifold can be eliminated as well as the Ball valve I have at the return "U"

Dolelo96 · Jul 7, 2018

CDavmd said:
So question as I write up the list-

-are you using flow meters? As you can see in my build thread I am using two.
-do you want to have the option as I do, to recirculate within the sump or simply have a manifold for the reactors. If you do not need to recirculate, then the entire right side of my manifold can be eliminated as well as the Ball valve I have at the return "U"

Yes, I do want the option to recirculate and to be honest, I’m not sure about flow meters. I’ve never heard of them. Why would they be needed?

CDavmd · Jul 7, 2018

They are part of the Apex system. I use them to dial in my flow in the algae reactor and display tank. If you don’t have an apex don’t worry about them. It will simplify your manifold

Dolelo96 · Jul 7, 2018

CDavmd said:
They are part of the Apex system. I use them to dial in my flow in the algae reactor and display tank. If you don’t have an apex don’t worry about them. It will simplify your manifold

I do have an Apex and if it helps getting the flow right in the display tank I’m in. It’s been difficult to get it right.

ZoWhat · Jul 7, 2018

Just wondering if you guys with these Cavalcade of Customs Show Tanks allow your fish to actually POOP in them (?)

Lmxo

CDavmd · Jul 7, 2018

skimjim said:
Just wondering if you guys with these Cavalcade of Customs Show Tanks allow your fish to actually POOP in them (?)

Lmxo

[emoji848][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

CDavmd · Jul 8, 2018

Dolelo96 said:
I do have an Apex and if it helps getting the flow right in the display tank I’m in. It’s been difficult to get it right.

Okay, here is the parts list for my manifold. Essentially my manifold is based off of @Broadfield and @Reefer525XL manifolds with a slight modification for the recirculation, incorporation of the flow meters and the smaller 425xl sump size.

PVC PIPING

1 inch SCH 40 Red
1/2 inch SCH 40 Red
3/4 inch SCH 40 Red

FITTINGS SCH 40

4 - 1 inch 90 degree Elbows
2 - 1 inch 45 degree Elbows
2- 3/4 inch 45 degree Elbows
2 - 1 x 1 x 1/2 inch "T"s
1- 1 x 1 x 1 inch "T"
1- 1 x 1/2 inch reducing bushel
4- 1/2 inch MPT x 1/2 inch SLIP adaptors for top of reactors
2- 3/4 inch MPT x 1 inch SLIP Adaptor (for connecting to the red sea return and main drain pipe)
1- 3/4 inch MPT x 3/4 in SLIP Adaptor (for emergency drain)
2- Red Sea barbed return assemblies ( you will remove the barbed portion and use the union to connect the manifold to the Red Sea parts)
5- 1/2 inch 90 degree elbows
3- 1/2 inch Unions
1- 1 inch Union

VALVES

1- 1 inch Gate Spears Gate Valve
2- 1/2 inch Spears Gate Valve
1- 1inch Cepex True Union Ball Valve
1- 1/2 inch Cepex True Union Ball Valve

OTHER PARTS

(8) O-Ring (ID of 11/16" with an OD of 7/8" and thickness of 3/32")- Best to buy the O-Ring Kit from Northern Supply. You will need 4 per reactor.
(2) Aquamaxx XS Reactors
(4-5) 1 inch PVC straps
Plumbers Tape
Clear PVC Primer and Cement (Don't use the purple, it will make a mess!)

NEPTUNE APEX FLOW METERS ( if you plan on incorporating them)

(1) 1 inch Flowmeter
(1-2) 1/2 inch Flowmeter
FMM Module (You can alternatively buy the Kit which includes various meters).
Rectorseal 5

You have the choice of using Schedule 40 fittings as I did which are white or Schedule 80 which are dark gray. If you go with the white, I would recommend purchasing Furniture grade fittings as they have a nicer cleaner finish. The only fittings not available in furniture grade are the 1 x 1 x 1/2 inch T's. You can remove the printed numbers on them with acetone or simply plumb them toward the back.

You can get the colored PVC at BRS and Aquarium Specialty, there are also some other vendors (google furniture grade PVC pipe). I purchased the majority of my fittings at pvcfittingsonline.com and my valves through BRS.

If you have never plumbed or used PVC cement, I strongly urge you to view some videos online. BRS has a good one. Practice on some spare pieces to get a feel. Since we are not using purple primer you have to be very careful that you are completely priming the circumference of the pipe and fitting. I prime both ends, then quickly apply glue to the female end, then male end, then female end again. Insert the pieces together and rotate one 90 degrees and hold together tight for 30-40 seconds. If you are careful and thorough you should have no leaks. Attention to detail is a must. Let them cure for 24 hours before wetting. Also be precise when lining things up and make small tick marks after dry fitting so you can line them up when you cement. Be aware that when you are cementing, the fittings will go in further than during the dry fit, so make sure you have your marks or your distances will be off.

For the Flowmeters, you must use the Rectorseal 5 pipe thread cement. DO NOT RELY ON PLUMBERS TAPE. BRS has a video on how to install them. I placed my main one on the run after my return pump. This is the best location for the 425XL. You can use the 1/2 inch flow meters on the reactors but these are optional. I am using just one on the feed to my Pax Bellum that I need to keep at 150-200 gph, otherwise I would have not incorporated it. When installing put just a little Rectorseal on the first 3-5 threads on the female union. Do NOT over tighten! The 1 inch Flow meter comes with the unions which are SLIP by British Standard. If you end up needing extra you will have to obtain from Neptune. You cannot use standard 1 inch unions with the flow meter.

The Reactors require the modification described by @Broadfield and shown in the video by @pelphrey. You can find the video on you tube.

Connecting the manifold to the return as well as the new emergency drain and main drain require the modification by @Broadfield. You need the Red Sea Barbed Fitting mentioned in the parts list. You already have one that came with the tank. Remove the barb part. Take your purchased MPT x Slip adapter. Wrap 15 turns of plumbers tape around the threads. Leave the first 2-3 threads unwrapped so that you can screw in with the threads finding themselves properly aligned. You can optionally also include the 0-Ring from the assembly. Screw together until fully seated. You then cement your manifold/drain pipes into the slip side.

My build thread has photos and video of the final manifold. It should be fairly clear when you have the parts, how I put things together.

Feel free to PM if you have questions.

Good Luck!

Dolelo96 · Jul 8, 2018

CDavmd said:
Okay, here is the parts list for my manifold. Essentially my manifold is based off of @Broadfield and @Reefer525XL manifolds with a slight modification for the recirculation, incorporation of the flow meters and the smaller 425xl sump size.

PVC PIPING

1 inch SCH 40 Red

1/2 inch SCH 40 Red

3/4 inch SCH 40 Red

FITTINGS SCH 40

4 - 1 inch 90 degree Elbows

2 - 1 inch 45 degree Elbows

2- 3/4 inch 45 degree Elbows

2 - 1 x 1 x 1/2 inch "T"s

1- 1 x 1 x 1 inch "T"

1- 1 x 1/2 inch reducing bushel

4- 1/2 inch MPT x 1/2 inch SLIP adaptors for top of reactors

2- 3/4 inch MPT x 1 inch SLIP Adaptor (for connecting to the red sea return and main drain pipe)

1- 3/4 inch MPT x 3/4 in SLIP Adaptor (for emergency drain)

2- Red Sea barbed return assemblies ( you will remove the barbed portion and use the union to connect the manifold to the Red Sea parts)

5- 1/2 inch 90 degree elbows

3- 1/2 inch Unions

1- 1 inch Union

VALVES

1- 1 inch Gate Spears Gate Valve

2- 1/2 inch Spears Gate Valve

1- 1inch Cepex True Union Ball Valve

1- 1/2 inch Cepex True Union Ball Valve

OTHER PARTS

(8) O-Ring (ID of 11/16" with an OD of 7/8" and thickness of 3/32")- Best to buy the O-Ring Kit from Northern Supply. You will need 4 per reactor.

(2) Aquamaxx XS Reactors

(4-5) 1 inch PVC straps

Plumbers Tape

Clear PVC Primer and Cement (Don't use the purple, it will make a mess!)

NEPTUNE APEX FLOW METERS ( if you plan on incorporating them)

(1) 1 inch Flowmeter

(1-2) 1/2 inch Flowmeter

FMM Module (You can alternatively buy the Kit which includes various meters).

Rectorseal 5

You have the choice of using Schedule 40 fittings as I did which are white or Schedule 80 which are dark gray. If you go with the white, I would recommend purchasing Furniture grade fittings as they have a nicer cleaner finish. The only fittings not available in furniture grade are the 1 x 1 x 1/2 inch T's. You can remove the printed numbers on them with acetone or simply plumb them toward the back.

You can get the colored PVC at BRS and Aquarium Specialty, there are also some other vendors (google furniture grade PVC pipe). I purchased the majority of my fittings at pvcfittingsonline.com and my valves through BRS.

If you have never plumbed or used PVC cement, I strongly urge you to view some videos online. BRS has a good one. Practice on some spare pieces to get a feel. Since we are not using purple primer you have to be very careful that you are completely priming the circumference of the pipe and fitting. I prime both ends, then quickly apply glue to the female end, then male end, then female end again. Insert the pieces together and rotate one 90 degrees and hold together tight for 30-40 seconds. If you are careful and thorough you should have no leaks. Attention to detail is a must. Let them cure for 24 hours before wetting. Also be precise when lining things up and make small tick marks after dry fitting so you can line them up when you cement. Be aware that when you are cementing, the fittings will go in further than during the dry fit, so make sure you have your marks or your distances will be off.

For the Flowmeters, you must use the Rectorseal 5 pipe thread cement. DO NOT RELY ON PLUMBERS TAPE. BRS has a video on how to install them. I placed my main one on the run after my return pump. This is the best location for the 425XL. You can use the 1/2 inch flow meters on the reactors but these are optional. I am using just one on the feed to my Pax Bellum that I need to keep at 150-200 gph, otherwise I would have not incorporated it. When installing put just a little Rectorseal on the first 3-5 threads on the female union. Do NOT over tighten! The 1 inch Flow meter comes with the unions which are SLIP by British Standard. If you end up needing extra you will have to obtain from Neptune. You cannot use standard 1 inch unions with the flow meter.

The Reactors require the modification described by @Broadfield and shown in the video by @pelphrey. You can find the video on you tube.

Connecting the manifold to the return as well as the new emergency drain and main drain require the modification by @Broadfield. You need the Red Sea Barbed Fitting mentioned in the parts list. You already have one that came with the tank. Remove the barb part. Take your purchased MPT x Slip adapter. Wrap 15 turns of plumbers tape around the threads. Leave the first 2-3 threads unwrapped so that you can screw in with the threads finding themselves properly aligned. You can optionally also include the 0-Ring from the assembly. Screw together until fully seated. You then cement your manifold/drain pipes into the slip side.

My build thread has photos and video of the final manifold. It should be fairly clear when you have the parts, how I put things together.

Feel free to PM if you have questions.

Good Luck!

This is exactly what I needed! Going to take my time, so I can hopefully get it right the first time. Can’t thank you enough!

nyknicks2544 · Jul 8, 2018

This thread is truly an amazing resource. Thank you everyone who contributes hopefully I can give back as I start my tank build.

Another plumbing question - I am working through planning my manifold and all this heat has my contemplating whether a chiller is necessary on the tank. I want to leave the option. My plan was to have 3 - 4 T's with gate valves on the manifold itself for things like reactors and then the pipe continuing on to the return in line in the tank. My question is, can I T off where the manifold connects to the return in the tank and continue the plumbing on to a closed gate valve to leave the option for a chiller? Does the return need to be the "end of the line" essentially on the manifold or can you continue it past the return to something like a chiller and not lose a ton of flow to the tank?

CDavmd · Jul 8, 2018

Yes you can continue on. That is what I did for my sump recirculating plumbing you can see in my build thread. With the gate valve closed it will not affect your DT flow. Obviously when open your flow will drop depending on pump, manifold design, head pressure.
Hope that helps.

dragon99 · Jul 8, 2018

2 years in on my Reefer 350

OriginalUserName · Jul 9, 2018

Does anyone know about how much a peninsula 650 weighs? I have the tank and I'm trying to line up helpers to move it onto the stand. Is it doable for 2 strong guys?

jbarn1225 · Jul 9, 2018

OriginalUserName said:
Does anyone know about how much a peninsula 650 weighs? I have the tank and I'm trying to line up helpers to move it onto the stand. Is it doable for 2 strong guys?

It weighs 355lbs, I did it with five out of shape people but we had to walk 30 feet with it and get through a door. 2 people could lift it up off the ground and put it on the stand. But if you have to walk any distance I would have more than 2 just in case.

FernandesReef · Jul 9, 2018

dragon99 said:
2 years in on my Reefer 350

Very nice, thanks for posting a pic of your system and the sump.
Goes to show, simple works.
Keep it up.

OriginalUserName · Jul 9, 2018

jbarn1225 said:
It weighs 355lbs, I did it with five out of shape people but we had to walk 30 feet with it and get through a door. 2 people could lift it up off the ground and put it on the stand. But if you have to walk any distance I would have more than 2 just in case.

Great, thanks. I have 2 floor dollies to move it down the hallway. I'll probably at least get another person to help as a spotter.