Show Off and Discuss Your Red Sea Reefer Series

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Crabs McJones

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IwantSum

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Hello. I have a red sea 350 and looking to place the Nero 5 in the back glass of the tank. Where will be the best starting location to place the wave maker in the back. Thanks
 

IwantSum

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Hello. I have a red sea 350 and looking to place the Nero 5 in the back glass of the tank. Where will be the best starting location to place the wave maker in the back. Thanks
 

adrianr514

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Hello. I have a red sea 350 and looking to place the Nero 5 in the back glass of the tank. Where will be the best starting location to place the wave maker in the back. Thanks
If you're only running one your best bet is put it on the side glass towards the front. If you're running two then one on either side of the Overflow as close to the waters surface without it sucking in air.
 

Leyth

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Hey guys, I have a reefer 350 and I hard plumbed it. It's running great, but now I got a 625 xxl. I'm thinking about just attaching a hose from the return pump to the reefer return barb. Do you guys advise against that? Also, what would be the right sized hose for the 625? I think it's the same as the 750.
 
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Broadfield

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I haven't posted here in quite some time... I'm happy to see the thread runs just fine without me lol.

I took a break from reefing a little while back... I'll get back into it at some point though. I thoroughly cleaned the tank and it has just been sitting dry. I ripped out my Apex insert and sold off my sump, plumbing, reactors, skimmer etc. Essentially putting the tank back to stock... empty and a barren cabinet. I didn't want to get away from having a tank though... and honestly, I didn't want the hassle of trying to sell my 450 lol. So I decided to try my hand at building a unique planted tank. Since most planted tank owners are super DIY and keep things simple overall, I figured I would go the opposite route and way over engineer it... which to me also means making it look cool everywhere. All new sump that I designed to have a cascade of three sock/media cup holders in line. Utilizing a filter sock at the first level, Seachem MatrixCarbon at the second level and lastly Seachem Purigen at the 3rd level. Custom Co2 diffuser and Pentair UV plumbed into the cabinet. Reusing my Apex to monitor it all and reuse my DOSs to perform daily, automatic water changes and dose fertilizers. Lastly reusing my Giesemann Spectra with a pair of 250 watt Hamilton 6500K MH bulbs.

Since the tank was completely drained, I wanted to come up with a different way to plumb the tank. I really wanted to put in standard bulkheads and plumb the entire overflow etc. But it just isn't feasible to safely get the Red Sea bulkhead assembly out, without cutting out the overflow and going at the bulkhead assembly from the side. I wanted to do something that the normal DIYer wouldn't be afraid to attempt. I also wanted to make sure the Red Sea standpipes would be removable for servicing, cleaning etc. So this is what I came up with:














I felt a planted tank deserved green plumbing. I still need to do my 1/4" dosing lines and water change lines... which all lead down to my basement. I will be doing something a little unique with all of those... as there will be 6-8 of them.



 

adrianr514

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I haven't posted here in quite some time... I'm happy to see the thread runs just fine without me lol.

I took a break from reefing a little while back... I'll get back into it at some point though. I thoroughly cleaned the tank and it has just been sitting dry. I ripped out my Apex insert and sold off my sump, plumbing, reactors, skimmer etc. Essentially putting the tank back to stock... empty and a barren cabinet. I didn't want to get away from having a tank though... and honestly, I didn't want the hassle of trying to sell my 450 lol. So I decided to try my hand at building a unique planted tank. Since most planted tank owners are super DIY and keep things simple overall, I figured I would go the opposite route and way over engineer it... which to me also means making it look cool everywhere. All new sump that I designed to have a cascade of three sock/media cup holders in line. Utilizing a filter sock at the first level, Seachem MatrixCarbon at the second level and lastly Seachem Purigen at the 3rd level. Custom Co2 diffuser and Pentair UV plumbed into the cabinet. Reusing my Apex to monitor it all and reuse my DOSs to perform daily, automatic water changes and dose fertilizers. Lastly reusing my Giesemann Spectra with a pair of 250 watt Hamilton 6500K MH bulbs.

Since the tank was completely drained, I wanted to come up with a different way to plumb the tank. I really wanted to put in standard bulkheads and plumb the entire overflow etc. But it just isn't feasible to safely get the Red Sea bulkhead assembly out, without cutting out the overflow and going at the bulkhead assembly from the side. I wanted to do something that the normal DIYer wouldn't be afraid to attempt. I also wanted to make sure the Red Sea standpipes would be removable for servicing, cleaning etc. So this is what I came up with:














I felt a planted tank deserved green plumbing. I still need to do my 1/4" dosing lines and water change lines... which all lead down to my basement. I will be doing something a little unique with all of those... as there will be 6-8 of them.



I am salivating at the work in the cabinet. I just use wet/dry sumps for my planted tanks but this is next level gorgeous. You're really going to like that GLA regulator, they are pricey but they are probably the best. I have yet to experience any needle drift or issues with mine. Do you have a parts list for the overflow modifications?
 
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Broadfield

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I am salivating at the work in the cabinet. I just use wet/dry sumps for my planted tanks but this is next level gorgeous. You're really going to like that GLA regulator, they are pricey but they are probably the best. I have yet to experience any needle drift or issues with mine. Do you have a parts list for the overflow modifications?
The parts are very simple:

(3) 1" Spigot Male Adapter - Spigot x MPT https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/1-sch-80-pvc-spigot-male-adapter-spig-x-mpt-861-010.html

(3) 1" Union - SLIP x FPT https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/1-sch-80-pvc-union-slip-x-fipt-899-010.html

I provided links because these unions actually fit. The 1" unions from BRS, for example, have too large of a diameter... so the return and emergency drain will not fit next to each other.

Then it's just a matter of cutting off the end of the Red Sea stand pipes and then sanding down the diameter of the male adapter until it slides up into the end of the freshly cut stand pipe. If you want to be able to still remove the stand pipes for whatever reason, then you will want to grind down the hexagon area on the male adapter... as seen in my images. Standard PVC cement will work to glue the adapter to the stand pipe. However, it takes longer to bond because the stand pipe isn't PVC. PVC to PVC only requires a few seconds to hold it in place. When glueing to the stand pipes, I would keep pressure on it for about 60 seconds to ensure it doesn't push out. Then just your typical Teflon tape around the 1" MPT.
 
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adrianr514

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The parts are very simple:

(3) 1" Spigot Male Adapter - Spigot x MPT https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/1-sch-80-pvc-spigot-male-adapter-spig-x-mpt-861-010.html

(3) 1" Union - SLIP x FPT https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/1-sch-80-pvc-union-slip-x-fipt-899-010.html

I provided links because these unions actually fit. The 1" unions from BRS, for example, have too large of a diameter... so the return and emergency drain will not fit next to each other.

Then it's just a matter of cutting off the end of the Red Sea stand pipes and then sanding down the diameter of the male adapter until it slides up into the end of the freshly cut stand pipe. If you want to be able to still remove the stand pipes for whatever reason, then you will want to grind down the hexagon area on the male adapter... as seen in my images.
I think I trust this method more than the Teflon around a 3/4" adapter. Thanks for the links.
 
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Broadfield

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I think I trust this method more than the Teflon around a 3/4" adapter. Thanks for the links.
Yeah, it's just more complicated than the other method. But I love having true unions there instead of the Red Sea assemblies.
 

Michael_NL

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Hi guys,

I cannot choose between two options so maybe you guys could help me out.
I'm planning on buying a 525XL and it will be a Mixed Reef.

I have two options for lightning;

3x Radion XR30 G4 Pro
5x Radion XR15 G4 Pro

I like the idea of creating multiple zones with the XR15's for SPS and LPS.

Thanks! :)
 

pelphrey

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Hi guys,

I cannot choose between two options so maybe you guys could help me out.
I'm planning on buying a 525XL and it will be a Mixed Reef.

I have two options for lightning;

3x Radion XR30 G4 Pro
5x Radion XR15 G4 Pro

I like the idea of creating multiple zones with the XR15's for SPS and LPS.

Thanks! :)
@Scubabum has three xr30's on his 525

 

adrianr514

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Hi guys,

I cannot choose between two options so maybe you guys could help me out.
I'm planning on buying a 525XL and it will be a Mixed Reef.

I have two options for lightning;

3x Radion XR30 G4 Pro
5x Radion XR15 G4 Pro

I like the idea of creating multiple zones with the XR15's for SPS and LPS.

Thanks! :)
You would need 6 XR15s to match 3 xr30s.
If you could swing 6 XR15s then go with that as you can adjust the light spread more evenly across your reef.

Also watch this from BRS, they compare numbers and spread between multiple XR15s vs. XR30s.

 
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Broadfield

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Hi guys,

I cannot choose between two options so maybe you guys could help me out.
I'm planning on buying a 525XL and it will be a Mixed Reef.

I have two options for lightning;

3x Radion XR30 G4 Pro
5x Radion XR15 G4 Pro

I like the idea of creating multiple zones with the XR15's for SPS and LPS.

Thanks! :)
I vote for the 3x Radion XR30 G4 Pros.
 
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