BRS

Corgigirl

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 6, 2020
Messages
674
Reaction score
799
Location
Northern VA
Some great tanks here....my max E 260 is a up and running almost a week now :). Basic out of the box build right now, just added an ato. An apex is next on my purchase list once things are up and running. Hope my tank turns out as nice as some of yours.

696D7718-9417-49DB-BC8A-E8266BD8267E.jpeg
 
Aquarium Specialty - dry goods & marine livestock
Aquarium Specialty - dry goods & marine livestock

Tastee

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 19, 2018
Messages
1,103
Reaction score
862
Location
Sydney, Australia
Can anyone direct me to some good Reefer 525 xl builds? I’ve found a few going through the thread but I’ve only made it through 100 pages.
Here is mine. Pretty basic but may give you some ideas.

 

Tastee

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 19, 2018
Messages
1,103
Reaction score
862
Location
Sydney, Australia
This is my Reefer XXL 625. Still cycling the tank before adding anything. Ran across this thread looking to see if I could find anyone who made a siphon break in the return line to the display tank. Anybody know the best way to accomplish this?
Nice tank, very well setup!

You may find that 1.5 litre dosing container is a little small. I have a RSR 525XL and have 3 of the 5 litre versions of your container instead - currently dosing 66 ml of Aquaforest 3 part/day so that gives me about 10 weeks. I expect that to grow to double or more as I add corals and they grow.

Why do you want a siphon break in your return line?
This is only needed if the top of the sump water level is higher than the DT bottom. In your case gravity will prevent a siphon.
 

Shanel

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 14, 2020
Messages
246
Reaction score
1,116
Location
USA
Nice tank, very well setup!

You may find that 1.5 litre dosing container is a little small. I have a RSR 525XL and have 3 of the 5 litre versions of your container instead - currently dosing 66 ml of Aquaforest 3 part/day so that gives me about 10 weeks. I expect that to grow to double or more as I add corals and they grow.

Why do you want a siphon break in your return line?
This is only needed if the top of the sump water level is higher than the DT bottom. In your case gravity will prevent a siphon.

Thanks for the info. The reason I want a siphon break is cause I installed a drop down fitting on the return outlet in the DT. That puts the return outlet lower in the water. It prevents the surface water from splashing. I have the return pump setup to pulse at certain times of the day to stir up the DT water. I have a check valve installed in the return line but eventually it will fail and when it does I want to be certain my sump doesn't overflow.

 
Maxout

Hasted

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 26, 2020
Messages
654
Reaction score
846
Wanting to order a RFG for my XL300. Anyone know if this is the correct one / what I need to buy?

Screenshot_20201009-175102_Chrome.jpg
 

OCDean

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 11, 2019
Messages
351
Reaction score
413
Location
Winnipeg, Canada
Wanting to order a RFG for my XL300. Anyone know if this is the correct one / what I need to buy?

Screenshot_20201009-175102_Chrome.jpg
Yes this looks like the right one! Using the same kit for my RSR 525xl and it fits well. My understanding is that if you go with the 3/4 kit you need a pretty high powered pump.

There is a lot of fans of the random flow generators but I wound up taking mine out and just using the y-splitter with the locline in the end.
 
OP
Broadfield

Broadfield

Red Sea Reefer Consultant... Non Affiliated
View Badges
Joined
Feb 8, 2014
Messages
2,495
Reaction score
4,400
Location
Normal, IL
Well, I turned my 450 back to a reef... I couldn't take it any longer lol. If any of you ever hear me mumble that I am going to shut my reef down and turn it into a freshwater planted setup.... SLAP me! Not that I didn't enjoy the planted setup and what I created, but it's no reef... not by a long shot.

I am going a different route this time, because why not. In an effort to maximize flow through the Red Sea return stand pipe, I ditched the bottleneck elbow at the top of it and came up with a 100% legit modification. I will also be doing a straight shot from the return pump... just a high quality Georg Fischer check valve and a Neptune 1" flow sensor. No manifolds/reactors or any of that jazz attached to the return pump. A custom Bashsea sump with a 6-24 twisted skimmer in the sump. I moved all of my Apex gear to the basement below the tank. So that frees up the entire right side of the cabinet for externally plumbed Bashsea reactors etc. I am using a COR-20 for the return and a COR-15 for the skimmer. I had them, so I might as well use them. Then I'll run a Sicce pump for each reactor and so on.

Here is what I did for the return pipe. If this mod has been done already, I apologize. I have not kept track of this thread for the last year or so. I skimmed over the last year real quick and I didn't see anything like what I have done. If anyone wants to attempt this, I have all of the measurements for the length of the two new PVC sections; one to connect the elbow to the union and one to connect the elbow to the bulkhead. Also how much to cut off one side of the elbow and the backside of the bulkhead. Lastly, the part #'s for the bulkhead, elbow, union and Loc-Line adapter.... as those need to be exact parts in order to work with my measurements etc. Most importantly, always remember to seat your PVC all of the way into the socket when gluing and hold it there, with a lot of pressure for, for a good 20 seconds or so... longer when gluing to the ABS bulkhead.

DISCLAIMER: I do not know which tanks this will be an exact fit for. I have a 450... so I assume also the 425, 525, 350 and maybe the 250. Don't quote me on any of this though. Maybe more, maybe less!?!

Part #s

  • 3/4" PVC Elbow: LASCO 806-007
  • 25mm x 3/4" Union: LASCO 8697-025
  • 3/4" Bulkhead - THREAD X SLIP: Bulk Reef Supply 202947
  • NPT Connector for 3/4” Modular Hose - Loc-Line: Bulk Reef Supply 202807 You can then attach whatever Y fitting, segments, nozzles etc. I am currently using a 3/4" to 1/2" Y... as that's what I had on hand. But I will be switching it out for a 3/4 Y and 3/4" segments/nozzles for unrestricted flow. My flow sensor will tell me if it makes any difference.


As seen in this first image, there's a huge bottleneck on the Red Sea elbow compared to a 3/4" PVC elbow.

IMG_1421 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

I went with a 3/4" bulkhead that is THREAD x SLIP. That way you can thread in a 3/4" Loc-Line adapter:

IMG_1413 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

The first thing is to hog out the Red Sea saddle that locks into the top of the weir. There is a lip around the front edge that needs to be removed. I used a 1" sanding drum attached to a die grinder. Just keep sanding a way until the bulkhead slips through the front.

Unmodified saddle:

IMG_1411 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

Modified saddle:

IMG_1412 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

You will also want to grind down the backside to remove the threads... this is so the bulkhead retaining nut threads on far enough to clear for the 3/4" PVC elbow.

IMG_1415 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

Next up is cutting a 1/2" off of the back of the bulkhead and a 1/2" off one end of the PVC elbow. Then simply gluing a small section of 3/4" PVC to the bulkhead to attach the elbow. You want the elbow and bulkhead to touch when glued. This should be a 7/8" long piece of 3/4" PVC... but you can double check the depth of the bulkhead and elbow, then add them together. But it should be really close to that or everything isn't going to line up in the overflow. NOTE: remember to thread the bulkhead nut on before you glue the elbow on:

IMG_1416 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

IMG_1417 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

IMG_1420 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

I sourced a true union that is 3/4" x 25mm. Glue the union to the elbow assembly with a 2.5" length of 3/4" PVC pipe.

IMG_1424 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

You will cut the Red Sea return stand pipe down to 15-7/8", measuring from the base of the pipe:

IMG_1418 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

IMG_1419 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

Finally, glue the 25mm side of the union to the fresh cut standpipe. NOTE: Don't forget to slide the union nut onto the standpipe first!

Then behold your new, high-flow return pipe!

IMG_1425 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

IMG_1427 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

IMG_1428 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

IMG_1431 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

Lastly, I used that same 1" drum sander to make room for the larger elbow that now sits under the overflow cover:

IMG_1434 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

IMG_1433 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
 
Last edited:

xclintonx

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 17, 2020
Messages
61
Reaction score
140
Location
Seattle
This is my 300XL. I sit pretty close to the tank so I built this hanging canopy out of leftover cedar to help with light bleed. I have two cedar “beams” across my ceiling and the cedar feature wall, so I felt the cedar worked with the room.

737D0720-C806-43DA-B739-E78C73602457.jpeg 785A718B-0B80-4F65-8FE7-82E7A61DFC68.jpeg
 

Zoajohn

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 16, 2015
Messages
467
Reaction score
177
Location
Georgia
Considering two options for lighting my reefer 350. I have an Aquaticlife t5 hybrid above it now and contemplating using two hydra 26's i have on another setup with the T5's, or selling them and going with 3 Radion XR15's. What would you all suggest?
 
BRS
BRS

If Reefing was a school what letter grade do you think you would be making?

  • A

    Votes: 63 11.3%
  • B

    Votes: 248 44.4%
  • C

    Votes: 183 32.7%
  • D

    Votes: 41 7.3%
  • F

    Votes: 22 3.9%
  • Other (please explain)

    Votes: 2 0.4%

New Posts

Battlecorals
Top