SkiCat's Dream Build: [Saving The] Planet 180 - The Making Of An Epic Aquacultured Mixed Reef

[SkiCatTX]

I also hooked up the WaveEngine just to configure it and see how the app works. Not very intuitive for sure, I had to go back and watch the videos just to get it set up initially.

I just plugged in one XF-350 Gyre and got it to turn on. I'll play with it more this weekend. I got an Apex 0-10v cable as well, so we'll see how that goes to control feed modes and whatever.

 

[SkiCatTX]

Final time for the M2 on two Ecotech batteries was about 15 hours at 250gph, which was about 40% setting on the driver.

I am sure I could get a bit more at a lower setting, which I might try just to see. You can also get more time by setting an interval and have it run on for some time, then completely off for some time.

Generally though, this is fine, as the battery is mostly for the times with the power is cut for a few hours here and there. For a hurricane, or something more significant, I'll have to get a generator, which I'm considering for later this year.

 

[SkiCatTX]

I now have both XF-350 Gyres, a one MP40 hooked up to the WaveEngine.

I finally got to try out one of the 3D printed white covers for the MP40 wet side. At this point, I don't have anything for the Gyres, but I could look at it someday. Maybe it's OK to have just a few old fashioned-looking devices in the tank?

At this point, I plan to put two MP40s on the back in white, and the two Gyres on the top sides, mostly out of the way.

The WaveEngine, of course, goes underneath. I set the lights to increase on the left side when the left side pumps are running, and then on the right for the right pumps. Way better than the disco flash mode which has absolutely no use at all on an actual tank...

Another issue with the Hydros device is that it has absolutely no cable management savvy. It's going to be a real pain trying to route all those front connections out of the way on the control panel...

 

[SkiCatTX]

This afternoon I started working on the mounting panels for various equipment. I built a shelf and panel that just fits above and to the right on the sump, just inside the right-side door. I used marine grade 316 stainless steel angle brackets, so hopefully they won't rust right away.

On the outside, there are the two M2 drivers with room for another S2 driver for the frag tank in the future, and one FMM, which handles the four return flow sensors, one each for left and right main and UV.

Below the panel, there is just enough room for a small 4 chamber dosing container, and a left-over lab-grade refrigerator we had sitting in the garage. Actual cable routing I'll do some time in the future after I've painted everything the final coat.

The shelf on the other side can hold up to two GHL Doser 2.1s side-by-side. I only have one right now, but there's room for another. I figure I'll use the doser and container for 2-4 part initially, then once the tank is ready for a CA reactor, I'll use it for trace or other things.

The fridge, I can use for dosing small bottles of food, phyto, or whatever. It can maintain down to 38'F/~4'c at room temperature, so it's serviceable for short term, like a week's worth at a time. Its heat exchanger exhaust output will be hooked up to the same vacuum as the chiller and sent outside so it doesn't add to the stand and room temperature.

 

[SkiCatTX]

On the left, there is a similar panel with a single DOS used for AWC on one side. Not sure what else yet, likely lots of wires passed through from the other side at least. In fact, I will probably move the DOS up higher so that it clears at least 24-25", since I would put the CA reactor under that spot, and many of them need 24" for the main cylinder...

On the outside of the panel, there will be at least 2 MP40 drivers, with room for a third, the WaveEngine controller, plus another FMM for the chiller flow sensor, two optical sensors, and at least one floor sensor. I might need a third FMM module for another leak sensor for the floor of the stand, and possibly other optical sensors. Not sure where that would go, maybe next to the DOS on the inside?

 

[SkiCatTX]

Now that I have finished up most of the pre-wiring and prep work in the garage, it's time to paint the stand and get it moved into my office.

I emptied the tank and sump, then removed all the equipment and plumbing, which makes quite a pile!

I have to sand and prime a few more pieces, then paint everything, starting with the stand. It is looking quite bare now after having been nearly built for the last few weeks!

Here it is all prepped for painting. I put some filler in a few extra holes, and covered some of the permanent screws with silicone. One more sanding and wipe down, then I'll paint it, probably this weekend.

 

[SkiCatTX]

All priming is complete, except for the doors, and I put one coat of paint on the stand, over the primer. It's almost time to move the stand frame inside for the last few steps before moving the tank, so I built a sturdy shelf with various leftover wood. We will use this in the garage once it's done holding the tank up.

My wife and I were able to push the tank across by ourselves, though we'll hire some people to come and move it inside once we're ready for that...

This will do nicely. Now I need to lightly sand the stand and apply one more coat of paint. Then I can start to work indoors for much of the rest of the build, except of course for the remaining painting of wood parts.

 

[SkiCatTX]

Stand is painted and ready to go.

Started working on the space in my office.

Along the wall, the large white pipe is a vent for the chiller and minifridge to send hot air outside, then new salt water, new RODI, outside air in for skimmer, and two 20a GFCI circuits. I'm going to add a few more, like an in-wall connection from behind the tank to the shelves on the left side, and to the right where my future display frag tank will be.

The wire in the 2" pipe is USB for the APEX gear in the attic that controls the RODI. I forgot to run it when I installed the pipes, so rather than go drill more holes, I just ran it through the air pipe and sealed the hole...it doesn't have to be water tight. I also have a 4" duct fan to actually suck the air out. At a low setting it's completely silent, so should help with heat in the office.

We went to Lowes to get a little cart, as my wife and I can't carry the stand all the way from the garage, around the house, and into the office...so we'll wheel it most of the way. It says it can hold 1000 lbs, we'll see...stand is maybe 150, but awkward.

The tank is over 400 lbs, so we'll have to hire the LFS to come move that when I'm ready in a few weeks.

 

[SkiCatTX]

Installed the exhaust fan in the attic that sucks the air outside yesterday, and we moved the stand into the office. I'll do some measuring and order parts to connect the future frag tank on the right, the cabinet on the left (which will house some additional equipment), and the lights above, so I can run wires and tubing out of sight.

Also, a lot of painting left to do. With the high humidity and temperatures right now, the pieces need to dry for several days between paint layers and sanding...might take a couple weeks to get all the wood painted at this rate...

 

[SkiCatTX]

I had to actually work most of the week, but I'm back on the tank installation this weekend!

Making a mess in the office, I have to drill a few more holes. First, two conduits connecting the cabinet/shelves to the left of the tank with the stand. This is where I'll put additional equipment, like Trident or whatever, which clearly is not going to fit under the tank. But, I don't want the wires and tubes running along the front of the wall...

Also, now that most of the boards are painted and dried, I'm installing some of the brackets and holders.

 

[SkiCatTX]

Finally, we got the stand in the office!

And I cut a bunch more holes in the wall...man that's a lot of holes...what a mess...

It will be totally awesome when it's done though...I hope...once it's all covered and cleaned up with no visible wires or pipes in the room....

 

[SkiCatTX]

Also, for the holes in the equipment mounting panels, I printed a bunch of grommets. I originally planned on white, but I think black is better contrast, especially since all the equipment will be black.

Later I'll print some inserts that will snap in and cover the holes, once I know which wires will go through each one.

 

[SkiCatTX]

While I was working, I used a bit of extra wood and paint and made a coat rack for my mom!

I thought the routing around the edges turns out quite nice!

 

[SkiCatTX]

Then...it was time for a break!

Oh yeah...

 

[SkiCatTX]

Yesterday, I cleaned the garage and set out the next round of paintables on all new cardboard.

And went to get the wood for the lighting frame.

 

[SkiCatTX]

Today, the plan was to finish up the wall work, but ran into some problems. I bought some flex PVC which was supposed to span the holes on the right side from the tank to the frag tank stand, but the pieces were too short.

I tried to make it work, but in the end I didn't like how it looked and I didn't think the flex pipe and fixtures glued well. Using the blue electrical boxes also made the fixtures come out in all different angles.

For the final saw, I read the label on the Flex PVC which claimed it was known to cause cancer in CA and was not to be used except for irrigation. In the end, I ripped it back out and ordered 25' of FDA approved replacement Flex PVC which should be here next week.

 

[SkiCatTX]

The conduit on the other side went well, however. This consisted of a pair of 1.5" PVC pipes, white 3D printed grommets for the end, and 45' fixture to aim toward the wall box.

I read that Weld On for Acrylic worked to glue PLA to PVC, but it didn't hold at all. I ended up just using silicone caulk, which will hold it in place fine. I covered the other ends with brush openings for AV wiring.

This turned out OK. I'll run RODI, test water lines, and USB cables (like the one here) through these to keep them out of sight. I painted the cover plates, which I'll put on tomorrow after they dry.

Though I won't be using the ones I drilled anymore, I'll have to get two new ones now as well.

 

[SkiCatTX]

On the 3D printing front, I have this wire raceway for routing wires, but it's too thin for some uses. I thought I could print a taller version. However, PLA is too brittle for this use, it just snaps off if you push it just a bit. I'll try PETG, but that might be the same issue, just stiffer. I'll probably have to use ABS, but I don't have any right now.

The model is perfect though, works great with the covers I already have.

 

[justingraham]

Nice attention to detail there

 

[SkiCatTX]

Nice attention to detail there

Many Thanks!

Yes, my family at this point seems to feel...too much attention to detail... As in, "Are you ever actually going to set up a tank, or are you just going to work on that stuff forever...?"