SkiCat's Dream Build: [Saving The] Planet 180 - The Making Of An Epic Aquacultured Mixed Reef

[SkiCatTX]

Man...that looks epic.

Do you have two sterilizers? What brand and size did you end up going with?

Yes, there are two Pentair 40 watts. I originally planned a single 80 watt HO, but the tubes are over 6" in diameter and I couldn't find a way to fit that in the stand or anywhere behind or near the tank.

When I thought about it, I decided to go with 2x 40 watt, which are about 3-4" wide and fit behind the tank just fine. This way I can connect one to each return pump and run them at different rates. I figure by default one at a fast algae rate, and the other at a slower pest rate. If needed I can put them both at the same rate to focus on one or the other. BRS talked about this in some of their videos, seemed like a good idea.

 

[MaddyP]

Wow, this a well thought out, beautiful build! Following along so I don't miss the wonder!

 

[reef-rc]

Yes, there are two Pentair 40 watts. I originally planned a single 80 watt HO, but the tubes are over 6" in diameter and I couldn't find a way to fit that in the stand or anywhere behind or near the tank.

When I thought about it, I decided to go with 2x 40 watt, which are about 3-4" wide and fit behind the tank just fine. This way I can connect one to each return pump and run them at different rates. I figure by default one at a fast algae rate, and the other at a slower pest rate. If needed I can put them both at the same rate to focus on one or the other. BRS talked about this in some of their videos, seemed like a good idea.

That's awesome; the two gives more ability to adapt imo. I like to include a sterilizer at some point sooner rather than later myself and that 6" you mentioned is a bit of a height challenge. I went with the stock sump setup so the one return pump can be constraint.

 

[SkiCatTX]

Wow, this a well thought out, beautiful build! Following along so I don't miss the wonder!

Thanks.

You're quite the CAD master yourself, and I'm very interested to see how your high-tech custom DIY comes out!

 

[SkiCatTX]

That's awesome; the two gives more ability to adapt imo. I like to include a sterilizer at some point sooner rather than later myself and that 6" you mentioned is a bit of a height challenge. I went with the stock sump setup so the one return pump can be constraint.

Yeah, I just want as much redundancy as possible (batteries, multiple pumps, multiple control systems, etc.). Historically at least, I travel a lot, and when I leave the tank to the family, something always goes wrong, and the fewer major things that CAN go wrong the better. I'm really trying to make this tank run itself...we'll see.

Unfortunately, using Neptune equipment isn't always the first choice for reliability, especially given the cost of it. You'd think it would be more reliable, but that's not been my experience...you just can't beat their integration with everything (off the shelf at least). I'll be watching Ecotech, GHL, Hydros, etc. to see how those systems turn out. Also, I'm getting more interested in DIY with Raspberry Pi and others (like @MaddyP and others ), they seem way more reliable, and even more programmable and generally can be cheaper...just require a bit more work initially...we'll see.

 

[MaddyP]

Yeah, I just want as much redundancy as possible (batteries, multiple pumps, multiple control systems, etc.). Historically at least, I travel a lot, and when I leave the tank to the family, something always goes wrong, and the fewer major things that CAN go wrong the better. I'm really trying to make this tank run itself...we'll see.

Unfortunately, using Neptune equipment isn't always the first choice for reliability, especially given the cost of it. You'd think it would be more reliable, but that's not been my experience...you just can't beat their integration with everything (off the shelf at least). I'll be watching Ecotech, GHL, Hydros, etc. to see how those systems turn out. Also, I'm getting more interested in DIY with Raspberry Pi and others (like @MaddyP and others ), they seem way more reliable, and even more programmable and generally can be cheaper...just require a bit more work initially...we'll see.

DIY controller route is certainly more fun...

 

[SkiCatTX]

DIY controller route is certainly more fun...

No doubt!

I'm going to start by replacing the main board on my Ender 3D printer with this new silent driver, color touch screen, and auto bed level sensor.

Then I want to get a RPi3 to control it without needing to copy a micro TF card over each and every time I want to print something...

If that goes well, I might try another Pi project in the near future...

 

[SkiCatTX]

I ran the power and control wire to the light fixture this morning.

The problem was that the wall behind the tank has horizontal supports between the joists halfway up since the ceiling is 14 feet high. I knew this, and even drilled it previously when I ran the AC wires down from the attic, but had forgotten when I drilled and planned for the lighting wires. Unfortunately, the space above the tank in the attic is now covered with the RODI system, so I can't drill it from the top anymore.

I had to just cut a hole in the wall at the support, run the wires around it, then down. I'll have to cover it, but since it's behind the tank, a painted blank faceplate should do...

Now the AC cables for the T5 fixture and the Radion power, and the 0-10v wire for dimming the two T5 channels from the Apex, run properly out behind the stand.

And the bird's nest of wires on top of the light.

The coolest part is the 1 to 5 C13 "squid". Normally used for rack server power supplies, I can plug up to 5 Radion power bricks into one AC outlet and not need 5 separate cables and plugs. It cuts down a little bit on the cabling I need to hide up here. Still, I only have 2 right now and that's a lot of wires...

And the view from the room...look ma, no wires! and no cables hanging down from the ceiling!

 

[GoVols]

I ordered 3 bags of Tropic Eden Reeflakes dry

Back on page 5, but love Topic Eden Reeflakes, cleanest sand that I've ever used.

 

[GoVols]

Chiller came in this week.

I wouldn't otherwise have gotten this yet, but I needed to plumb it into the system.

SkiCat,

Got a 2014 TK-1000 and it still has not missed a beat, and it saved our reef two summers back.
AC was out 16 days in the heat of the summer.

Great build and love your taste, craftsmanship and detail that you provide us on your thread.

Thanks for taking the time and look forward to catching up, to your present postings.

 

[SkiCatTX]

SkiCat,

Got a 2014 TK-1000 and it still has not missed a beat, and it saved our reef two summers back.
AC was out 16 days in the heat of the summer.

Great build and love your taste, craftsmanship and detail that you provide us on your thread.

Thanks for taking the time and look forward to catching up, to your present postings.

I've heard lots of good things, I have high hopes for this one. It will have to work hard, as my office is 75-76 year round, and with all the pumps and lights on water temp tends to default to around 80-81 without a chiller. My JBJ is quite loud though, so I'm hoping this one is a bit quieter.

Thanks for the likes!

 

[SkiCatTX]

Here's a picture of it folded up in a maintenance position. I'll probably need to set up a hook or something so it doesn't drop if I knock it or something. It's pretty heavy, even without the rest of the Radions and the T5 bulbs.

 

[SkiCatTX]

In order to monitor the amount of battery left for the return pump and the MP40s, I bought cheap 12v digital displays and wired them up to some extra battery cables for the Ecotech batteries. I'll mount them around here somewhere, for now, they are just sitting on the shelf.

They just plug right into the extra 12v output on the battery. When connected to the charger and AC is on, they read about 14.5v, when the power is cut and running on battery they start at about 13.5v and run down to about 10v before the pump cuts off, which is about 24-36 hours depending on the speed setting. You can configure the battery speed on all Ecotech controllers in the settings.

Just solder on the extra connectors to the display cable.

 

[SkiCatTX]

The first step in upgrading the 3D printer is to install a new controller board. I'm using the new SKR Mini 2.0 from BigTreeTech, which is 32-bit and runs Marlin 2.x. I figured at the same time, I'd install their color TFT touch screen. The two boards totaled $60, so I figured it was a good deal. The new board will run completely silent, and support an auto-leveling sensor as well.

So, let's make a big mess...

OMG, that's a lot of wires...

In the end, I got it working. I just went real slow, wire-by-wire, and it powered right up, no problems!

Next step, installing a Raspberry Pi 3 for OctoPrint, so I can print over Wifi, and not have to copy each and every file to a micro SD card, carry it to the printer, put in the card, select all the menu options, then say print...

 

[SkiCatTX]

Continuing with the Raspberry Pi install...Mess number 2...

I printed a whole bunch of parts, like a case for the Pi, camera arm and cover, and auto level sensor mount. Then wired everything up to test and install software.

Camera to monitor prints.

The sensor installed on print head, and all put back together.

The Pi is in the little black case in the front middle with the USB ports. Notice the color screen! Now if I can just get it calibrated and printing...

I have a bunch of power brick and wire holders I need to print.

 

[SkiCatTX]

I finally got all the parts to install the exhaust vent tubing. I had to mount a vent bracket to the back of the little fridge cooler and the top of the chiller.

Had to reverse the fan from sucking in, to blowing out as well.

Need to drill a hole in the hood of the chiller, then attach the vent.

Then partially block the normal vent so the air mostly goes out through the new vent hole. I left some room to relieve pressure if the fan pushes too hard, the hose gets blocked, or the attic suction fan stops working. I first put some (Actual HVAC) Duct tape on first, then covered it with black gaffer tape.

Finally, everything connected to the exhaust port with 2.5" dust vacuum tubing and a Y connector.

 

[reef-rc]

Man...awesome stuff.

I was curious why u think you may need a chiller? I only ask assuming you would be using LEDs for lighting.

I am on the northwest side of Houston so weather-wise I assuming it's similar.

 

[SkiCatTX]

Man...awesome stuff.

I was curious why u think you may need a chiller? I only ask assuming you would be using LEDs for lighting.

I am on the northwest side of Houston so weather-wise I assuming it's similar.

Thanks!

My office temperature stays in the 75-77 range just about year-round. That results in a default water temperature in my other tanks around 80-82, and that gets hotter when we're out of town and the AC runs in away mode. It would be way worse if the AC went out for some reason. Using fans also works for very small tanks, but for a 200 gallon system, that would raise the house humidity significantly.

I have run a chiller on my tanks for the last 10 years or so just to keep things constant. Also, even though I have heaters, they almost never kick on.

 

[SkiCatTX]

UPSs came for the tank, one for each dedicated GFCI circuit.

So here's my "battery room" as it were:

 

[SkiCatTX]

Last year I installed a drain that runs from the back of the closet to the toilet drain stack nearby. I originally had a pump here that I could use for my nano tanks for water changes, but I modified it for use as a drain for auto water changes and for the output of automated testing machines, like the Trident.

I'm hoping it will work closed like this, but if I have to vent it, I can expand on the right side. I'll probably run additional tubing up to a high point, or maybe into a container, in case the drain backs up for some reason.