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SkiCat's Dream Build: [Saving The] Planet 180 - The Making Of An Epic Aquacultured Mixed Reef

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SkiCatTX

SkiCatTX

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I ordered a selection of snails and a pair of urchins from Pacific East Aquaculture. They were shipped overnight, but good old UPS had TWO mechanical shipping delays so they showed up after two days in transit. Fortunately, most things survived, but one bag of Cerith haven't moved in several hours so might be a total loss. I think they might have been fine for two days, but it's been in the 90's with heat index of over 110F, so depending on where they spend that time, they may have been baked...

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They are going into QT for 72 days, so hopefully I can keep them alive and fed for that long. This will be my first time QTing snails. They were covered in limpets and various worms so I scrubbed each one down (that took a while) and rinsed them in HO, then a few baths of tank water before putting them in. ...all except the urchins, which I just rinsed...:)
 
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SkiCatTX

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Good work. The tank is coming along nicely.
Thanks, it is a very stressful time with everything in QT, losing a fish already, and trying not to cross-contaminate any tank...
 
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So far I have been unhappy with the build quality of the IceCap CO2 scrubber. The materials are fine, and the thing is heavy and solid, but in putting it together they did a terrible job. Every single piece had leaks between all the acrylic connections. I ended up doing some repairs, and now it's working much better.

You can see here, I reinstalled the unit on the evening of September 1, resulting in about a 0.15 increase in pH over the last two days.

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Initially, after a week of use, there was no noticeable improvement in the pH, so I ordered some adapters to better seal the silicone tubing to the various quick-connect fittings.

IMG_2568.jpeg


After installing these, I noticed bubbling of the water inside the unit. Air was seeping through cracks in the glue. I fixed this by adding a bead of Weld-On (everyone should have some of this around, it's amazing for welding Acrylic) around the bottom between the bottom panel and the clear acrylic tube.

Once this was dry, I tried blowing in one hole while blocking the other, and air seeped out through every other connection, even between the two circular top white pieces. So I added more Weld-On to all the joints, this appears to have fixed the leaks.

IMG_2567.jpeg


So, with the adapters installed, and clips to hold the quick connect fittings tight, it now appears to be working.
 
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Updated PAR FTS.

IMG_4585 2.jpeg


This is after raising the XR-15s about 3/4", adding the two additional T5s, and changing their order in the fixture. I mounted a few more frags as well and put the rest on the rack on the glass.

I also just finished cleaning the left side of the back and overflow...what a pain...
 
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SkiCat,

;Sorry... for the loss of your clownfish.

If you don't mind:
What par levels do you shoot for with acros?

We used to hit 400 +, but seems like BRS likes 350 to 250.

Thanks!!
 

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I love what you’ve done with all the DIY and 3D printing, any chance you’d share your files for the loc line and RFG nozzles? I’m going with 1 inch returns, and happens that the only way to get 1 inch lock Line is to 3D print it.
 

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I love what you’ve done with all the DIY and 3D printing, any chance you’d share your files for the loc line and RFG nozzles? I’m going with 1 inch returns, and happens that the only way to get 1 inch lock Line is to 3D print it.
Check out Thingiverse. I found this with a quick search. 1” Loc line
 
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SkiCat,

;Sorry... for the loss of your clownfish.
Thanks, the wife and daughter are bummed, but not out. We're more anxious than ever to get some more fish...only one more week of QT and the clown and lawnmower are in the tank...and I'm already looking into the next round of captive-bred fish.

If you don't mind:
What par levels do you shoot for with acros?

We used to hit 400 +, but seems like BRS likes 350 to 250.

Thanks!!
I've only ever had a few, historically I have had tanks full of LPS, softies, and anemones. I got a few a couple of years ago, which did great in the nano tanks, but in the last year, I have lost all but one with neglect (building the new tank) and some dyno/cyano outbreaks.

I only recently got the PAR meter, so I don't know historically the numbers, but based on reading people here with awesome tanks I'm going to shoot for the 300-500 range probably. I think the key is to gradually raise the PAR over weeks or more and let them adapt, and also to keep the various parameters up and stable, so they can handle the faster growth.

I have 4xT5s and 2 Radion XR15s now, and plan to go up to at least 4, maybe 5 depending on what PAR I see, once I start putting in some acros. That will hopefully be around the end of this year if all goes well and I think the tank could support them.

For now, I only have the blue-green styo in there, which is already struggling a bit. I'm hoping it is just the stress of dipping and moving, though it could also be the new tank still getting settled in.
 
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I love what you’ve done with all the DIY and 3D printing, any chance you’d share your files for the loc line and RFG nozzles? I’m going with 1 inch returns, and happens that the only way to get 1 inch lock Line is to 3D print it.
Check out Thingiverse. I found this with a quick search. 1” Loc line
Yes, that's where I got my original models for some things. You can just upload the STL files into something like TinkerCAD and modify them. It's a bit of a pain, since you don't have the original source parts, but making cuts and additions isn't too difficult.

I have thought about posting them on Thingiverse, I'd have to set up and account I guess, and make sure I give the proper credit for the originals. I made all the holders and mounts myself, but the Loc Line items are at least based on some originals that others have posted. I kind of cut and pasted the best parts from multiple sources.

My modifications are somewhere between 3/4" and 1" so wouldn't fit with actual LocLine fittings, but as long as they are all printed together it wouldn't matter. Only the 3/4" NPT threaded piece needs to match the bulkheads. For 1" NPT you would just need to scale it up.

If you are actually targeting 1", then yeah, just go download the STL files on Thingiverse would be your best bet. Make sure to print with PETG or maybe ABS rather than PLA, as I understand that's not good for the water, or for later dipping in (diluted) Bleach, Vinegar, or Citric Acid for cleaning.
 

Tom Stevens

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Yes, that's where I got my original models for some things. You can just upload the STL files into something like TinkerCAD and modify them. It's a bit of a pain, since you don't have the original source parts, but making cuts and additions isn't too difficult.

I have thought about posting them on Thingiverse, I'd have to set up and account I guess, and make sure I give the proper credit for the originals. I made all the holders and mounts myself, but the Loc Line items are at least based on some originals that others have posted. I kind of cut and pasted the best parts from multiple sources.

My modifications are somewhere between 3/4" and 1" so wouldn't fit with actual LocLine fittings, but as long as they are all printed together it wouldn't matter. Only the 3/4" NPT threaded piece needs to match the bulkheads. For 1" NPT you would just need to scale it up.

If you are actually targeting 1", then yeah, just go download the STL files on Thingiverse would be your best bet. Make sure to print with PETG or maybe ABS rather than PLA, as I understand that's not good for the water, or for later dipping in (diluted) Bleach, Vinegar, or Citric Acid for cleaning.
I found a lot of cool stuff to build on this thread https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/3d-printed-aquarium-parts-archive-thread.599807/
Check it out if you have not found the thread already.
 
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Gablami

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Doors are on!

IMG_2588.jpeg


I might need to get some knobs. It was fine when it was just bare wood, but with shiny new paint, I can't get them open... :0

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View attachment 1771351
Looks really nice! Get those push out door things, where you push it and it pops it out so you can open it. NO KNOBS...please please. It would pain me and it’s not even my stand.

I guess they’re called magnetic push latches.
 
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Kenneth Wingerter

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As for feeding, I'm sure I'm totally overdoing this for just a few LPS and Anemones, but I need to up the Phosphate and Nitrate anyway, and I want to foster the right balance of bacteria and pods over the next few months when I will start to add more SPS and fish.

A8CEEF5E-2647-4269-BE94-EB53405C88BE_1_105_c.jpeg


Daily, I'm adding the following:

30ml OceanMagik Phyto (mixed with about 20ml each PNO Yellow Sno and PNS Pro Bio, for about 15 minutes), then dumped into the tank. These are all from Algae Barn.

Spot feed later in the day about 1 heaping micro spoonful each of Reef-Roids and Coral Frenzy, 1ml CoralAmino, 4ml Reef Energy AB+. I set up feeding mode with the Hydros (triggered by the Apex) to run all the wavemakers at 5%, and leave on the return pumps while feeding with a long tube, and turn off the UV Sterilizers and Skimmer for about a half-hour afterward. I'm also going to adjust the skimmer to be a litter drier so I'm not pulling so much of this back out, while still aerating the water.

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I pre-mix the spot feeding in 1oz cups and put them in the mini fridge. I try not to make more than a week's worth, usually only 4-5 days so it doesn't go bad, but recently I've been so busy I would rather make more than miss feedings.
Is this food line-up still working well for you? I'm having really decent success (in an NPS system, actually) using most of the same (I'm using Coral Feast instead of the Roids and Frenzy).
 
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