So many salt mixes, which one is the best one?

[Belgian Anthias]

Differences between salt-mixes are the salts used. technical grade, natural sources, the way the salt buffers the water. About parameters after being mixed with RODI water, commercial salt-mixes all result in good seawater, close to natural parameters. Some contain so called "probiotics" etc.., . A comparing test.


What if no RODI water is used? Do we need expensive RODI water to set up a new tank?

A clean new glass tank is filled with fresh made seawater and cycled. Nothing else is added. Pumps are turning and enough light is available to complete the first step, bringing in carbon, fixing CO2. The tank walls and bottom turns brown, diatoms and other micro algae are consuming the nutrients and building materials available. The growth of bacteria is limited. Algae growth and carbon input will be limited by the availability of one or more nutrients ore and essential building materials, the energy source is unlimited if enough light.
What difference will the favored salt-mix make on this process?
After a period of patience, the brownish will disappear , sometimes slowly, sometimes fast, grazed and reminerelized by bacteria. Most of the carbon is cycled, released as CO2, the first carbon cycle is completed. From now on algae growth will have to compete with bacterial growth.
What difference will the favored salt-mix make on these processes?

The water used to make the favored salt-mix , what difference will it make?

Managing a closed system, what is used from the water column will not constantly be replaced.

How the favored salt-mix will support cycling the tank? And what will be left over of the favored parameters in the chosen mixture after completing the first carbon-cycle?

Till now only natural carbon is introduced, nothing else is added, only what is and was available in the water is used. Usable nitrogen is limited available, diatoms are favored for fixing carbon as they are the only photo-autotrophs having an ureum cycle. They may get competition for the limited available nutrients by nitrogen fixing cyano, very effective in fixing phosphorus. What happens in the first cycle and what is favored is meanly driven by the limited availability of nitrogen and phosphorus in fresh made seawater.

Nothing is added, the tank is yet not cycled. And certainly not conditioned.

Some may now add so called " life rock", not a small piece but fill up 1/3 of the tank. What about the ideal parameters of the preferred salt-mix?

My opinion, a salt-mix used for starting up a new tank should support cycling the tank in a way it may support essential primary growth.
Salt-mixes for to be used in an established tank, for water changes, should they be different? The conditions and needs are completely different.

 

[Clownfish_Boy]

You can't go wrong with IO basic or Reef Crystals (if you want extra calcium, etc), it's as good a salt as any and the price is hard to beat.... And is commonly available.

 

[Clownfish_Boy]

What if no RODI water is used? Do we need expensive RODI water to set up a new tank?

You can use tap water treated with a cloramine detoxifier, but I would much rather use RODI water. I would advise getting a RODI system from BRS; it is far better for a marine aquarium and will pay for itself. When I used to use treated city water I had a problem with cloudiness.

 

[maleks.reef]

You can't go wrong with IO basic or Reef Crystals (if you want extra calcium, etc), it's as good a salt as any and the price is hard to beat.... And is commonly available.

Ive opted for the regular red sea salt. I think it will best suit my lps and softies tank.

 

[Clownfish_Boy]

I have always used IO or IO Reef Crystals with excellent results. Mixes fast and easy, and makes crystal clear water.

 

[Belgian Anthias]

You can use tap water treated with a cloramine detoxifier, but I would much rather use RODI water. I would advise getting a RODI system from BRS; it is far better for a marine aquarium and will pay for itself. When I used to use treated city water I had a problem with cloudiness.

My tap water does not contain chloramine, aerating it may be sufficient.

To set up an aquarium I think I do not need RODI water. During the first cycle, everything present in the salt mix and water is used up and is recycled. Only a bit of DOC is produced. I think what is present in my tap water may make a difference, although not that much,
So, why it is far better to use RODI water to set up a marine aquarium? Why should I buy an expensive RODI system?
One salt mix being better than another? For keeping corals? After the first cycle, the production of TOC, not much difference is left over.

Most Salt mixes are very good but want to mimic natural seawater, not many nutrients are present. How a sufficient carrying capacity may be installed in a closed system only using the nutrients present in the salt mix? After cycling, to condition the tank I think I need a lot more building materials anyway.

 

[Clownfish_Boy]

My tap water does not contain chloramine, aerating it may be sufficient.

I think what is present in my tap water may make a difference, although not that much,
So, why it is far better to use RODI water to set up a marine aquarium? Why should I buy an expensive RODI system?

I had an issue with haziness of newly made water when using city water. After acquiring my RODI system, I no longer had a problem with that, the new water comes out crystal clear each time. But if you have no such issues with your own water, you can get by just fine with simple treated tap water. Really clean artisan well water would probably be as good as RODI water.

 

[Belgian Anthias]

I had an issue with haziness of newly made water when using city water. After acquiring my RODI system, I no longer had a problem with that, the new water comes out crystal clear each time. But if you have no such issues with your own water, you can get by just fine with simple treated tap water. Really clean artisan well water would probably be as good as RODI water.

The haziness is normal as most salt mixes are made to be used with RODI water and must buffer that RODI water. It should clear up. if tap water is used, this water is buffered. My tap water has pH 8.1. For some salt mixes, the manufacturer's instructions are to use RODI. Such a mix is in a total of course a lot more expensive.

 

[rusgum]

For me, Preis-aquaristik salt comes first. Tropic Marin comes in second.

 

[Andreas' Reef]

You can be successful with all salts, but I choose Fritz Rpm because is supplies magnesium.

 

[Clownfish_Boy]

For some salt mixes, the manufacturer's instructions are to use RODI. Such a mix is in a total of course a lot more expensive.

Not expensive for me, as I have my own RODI system. It pays for itself in a few months; buying RODI water would bankrupt me !

 

[Belgian Anthias]

Not expensive for me, as I have my own RODI system. It pays for itself in a few months; buying RODI water would bankrupt me !

Making good RO/DI, a lot of good drinking water is wasted. Certainly when a new tank is set up.
Fresh GAC has to be used. Membranes have to be replaced. A good RO/DI system is expensive!!
If the RO/DI system is not a continuous system, algae or and bacteria may grow in the filter, on the membranes, in this case, membranes have to be cleaned or replaced before each use. GAC should be removed or replaced after each use, otherwise, it will become fouled. If such a system is used from time to time, the produced RO/DI water may become very expensive.

In many regions, demineralized water may be available very cheap, delivered in bulk (1000l). Professional window cleaners use it in high quantities.

Anyway, using a salt mix specially formulated for neutral RO/DI , I think the RO/DI water may become an important part of the total budget, the total price of the salt-mix.

 

[ShepherdReefer]

I use the Pro-Reef below. I think if I start another tank, looking at something large after the room addition... possibly around 1000-gallon. I will be using the ESV salt mix.

 

[hawk82]

I just use regular purple bag IO, but what do I know my tank is only a year old, and im only keeping leathers/softies. But everything does seem to be growing well. Fish happy also. Cant beat the price on Amazon.

 

[Casket_Case]

Woah you just provoked some things hahaha.

I personally use Instant Ocean’s Reef Crystals... that’s what the Georgia Aquarium uses and plus it’s cheap.

 

[maleks.reef]

Making good RO/DI, a lot of good drinking water is wasted. Certainly when a new tank is set up.
Fresh GAC has to be used. Membranes have to be replaced. A good RO/DI system is expensive!!
If the RO/DI system is not a continuous system, algae or and bacteria may grow in the filter, on the membranes, in this case, membranes have to be cleaned or replaced before each use. GAC should be removed or replaced after each use, otherwise, it will become fouled. If such a system is used from time to time, the produced RO/DI water may become very expensive.

In many regions, demineralized water may be available very cheap, delivered in bulk (1000l). Professional window cleaners use it in high quantities.

Anyway, using a salt mix specially formulated for neutral RO/DI , I think the RO/DI water may become an important part of the total budget, the total price of the salt-mix.

So would you say it is better if i buy RODI from the LFS rather than get a small unit one day?

 

[Clownfish_Boy]

So would you say it is better if i buy RODI from the LFS rather than get a small unit one day?

You can get a 50 GPD unit for like under $200; probably wouldn't take long to pay for itself. RO membranes last 2-3 years, and the other filter and carbon blocks and DI resin are replaced semi-annually. I don't know where the previous poster got that bit about replacing something after each use, you merely flush the RO membrane. If you make a lot of water for changes, I would think it less costly than buying water.

 

[maleks.reef]

You can get a 50 GPD unit for like under $200; probably wouldn't take long to pay for itself. RO membranes last 2-3 years, and the other filter and carbon blocks and DI resin are replaced semi-annually. I don't know where the previous poster got that bit about replacing something after each use, you merely flush the RO membrane. If you make a lot of water for changes, I would think it less costly than buying water.

There is this RO Buddie unit that some people suggested since my tank is 34 gals only. Im thinking of buying it but honestly the entire changing the membrane and carbon thing is holding me back. Im not sure where i can get these membranes to begin with. Also, are they membranes or the carbon expensive?

 

[smokin'reefer]

So many options.
I would suggest that if you have a lfs that you buy most of your fish and corals from. Check what salt they use. It would make acclimating anything you purchase from them easier on the fish and coral. Imo.
Probably doesn't matter though. Salt is salt.

 

[Robinson]

There is this RO Buddie unit that some people suggested since my tank is 34 gals only. Im thinking of buying it but honestly the entire changing the membrane and carbon thing is holding me back. Im not sure where i can get these membranes to begin with. Also, are they membranes or the carbon expensive?

The RO Buddie is a good system and you can get the replacement sediment and carbon cartridge on amazon ($7.99 and $9.99) Also the membrane replacement around $16.00 - $40.00 range. Even you can buy a bundle of all three for $45.00.

How long they will last depends of your tap water quality. In my case I replace the sediment and carbon around 6 to 8 months, and the membrane around 2 years.

Also you can add an DI resin cartridge for $18 and then just buy DI resin in bag and replace the one in the cartridge when is exhausted.

Im using this system for 100 gallons tank at it works fine.