Dan I
Well-Known Member
I run the BRS 4 Stage 150 GPD plus water saver. I have a booster pump, but don't use it. Last time I installed it the booster pump it was not working properly. I need to go back and try to reinstall it and fine the issue.
So what's everyone's Tap TDS and how do you handle it?
- Thread starter JoshH
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I run the BRS 4 Stage 150 GPD plus water saver. I have a booster pump, but don't use it. Last time I installed it the booster pump it was not working properly. I need to go back and try to reinstall it and fine the issue.
This is a Awesome idea for a thread!!
I use the brs 75 gpd 6 stage
187-TDS from tap
60-PSI
Palm Springs California
The summers are so extreme here the tap water runs warm and it causes my unit to make 5 gallons every 1hr 15 min with 5-7 tds coming from the membrane then 0 after the duel di
I run a brs 150gpd I think it's a 4 stage with dual membrane. I am on well water in western New York. I had to adjust my bladder tank pressure and regulator to get up to around 60 psi at the unit. I only run my unit when my ato is getting low or when I need to fill my mixing station. When I first start the unit I read around 90ppm, so I flush for about 20 minutes and it drops down to less than 10ppm. I've never changed any cartdridges, membranes or resins and always get 0ppm out of it. However my filters do have an orange rusty tint to them. I have high iron in my well I think. Should I be changing any of the resins, filters, or membranes even if I get 0 ppm? It's literally been 2 years since I set it up.
;Facepalm3 months ouch
Woah?! I would start to heavily doubt those tds meters haha
JoshH
Tank Status: Wet...ish, growing things....
I thought so
I don't think I've seen two situations/setups that are the same yet. Are you happy with the 60PSI going through the 6 stage? Do you thinking boosting it might increase your overall production? How often do you run your system? Two years might be a little long for your carbon and DI and your membranes are probably pretty close to there life expectancy. Honestly I was in the same position you are in now, filters were yellow, DI resin had pretty much all turned yellow and I was still getting 0 TDS (After a year). But for the $25 it cost to replace the sediment, carbon and DI resin I just replaced them all anyway. The membranes are definitely more pricy though but after two years of use I'm sure they have more than paid for themselves anyway.
I thought so
60 psi is plenty for the six stage with one membrane and it exceeds the 75gpd bench mark.
especially in the summer here haha it’s unreal.
JoshH
Tank Status: Wet...ish, growing things....
What was the issue with the pump?
Ahhh I thought for sure you'd be running dual RO with that TDS. On that note, what do you run in your 6 stage if not dual RO or DI???
Oh @JoshH you must have missed it. At the end of my first post I mentioned I have 0 tds after my Duel DI
Dan I
Well-Known Member
Not sure, I thought I installed it wrong then I as I went over with BRS customer service. It was fine. I sent it to them and they tested it to find any defects. It worked fine. They sent me it back and still no luck. I think I just need to spend a day tinkering with it. Last time I did, I closed the flush valve I was able to adjust the psi when I adjusted the booster pump. However, when I opened the flush valve my psi just goes back to 35.
chipmunkofdoom2
Always Making Something
Exactly, glad to see you say that. People go crazy with expectations of PSI and RO/DI systems.
I can't speak for dual membrane setups like the unit from BRS, but I can say that while more pressure is better, it's certainly not necessary. Dow rates their 75GPD membrane at 50PSI. This means that at 50PSI of pressure, you should get the exact product water and rejection rates that Dow quotes in their manual.
Dow's manual also shows a graph of what type of product water flow you can expect at various pressures. Dow's 75GPD membrane is the top line in the graph below. Note that the product water is 75 GPD at 50PSI:
I don't mean to say that there's no reason to ever run a membrane at higher than 50PSI. But, if your pressure is "only" 50 PSI, relax. For Dow 75GPD membranes, that's plenty. Again, this is only for single membrane setups. But my point stands.
JoshH
Tank Status: Wet...ish, growing things....
Exactly, glad to see you say that. People go crazy with expectations of PSI and RO/DI systems.
I can't speak for dual membrane setups like the unit from BRS, but I can say that while more pressure is better, it's certainly not necessary. Dow rates their 75GPD membrane at 50PSI. This means that at 50PSI of pressure, you should get the exact product water and rejection rates that Dow quotes in their manual.
Dow's manual also shows a graph of what type of product water flow you can expect at various pressures. Dow's 75GPD membrane is the top line in the graph below. Note that the product water is 75 GPD at 50PSI:
I don't mean to say that there's no reason to ever run a membrane at higher than 50PSI. But, if your pressure is "only" 50 PSI, relax. For Dow 75GPD membranes, that's plenty. Again, this is only for single membrane setups. But my point stands.
I wonder what dows recommended PSI is for dual membrane setups. I've never checked the PSI after my first membrane so it would be neat to know, although I guess as long as it's no less than 50 that's all that matters.
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I run one sediment filter one 5 micron carbon block and one single micron universal carbon block
My water supply doesn’t use chloramines and very little chlorine
I think they answer this on a brs video between 60-70 psi idk for sure but I’ll double check and they don’t use a pressure gauge in between membranes just before. tho running one in between might help gauge when the first one would need replacement more accurately I would think
JoshH
Tank Status: Wet...ish, growing things....
I'll have to watch the vid again it's been quite a while TBH. And an extra in between the two I'm sure wouldn't hurt either. I might pick up another PSI meter just for that purpose.
That would be cool please post your findings if you do!
Greybeard
2500 Club Member
AirWaterIce Hurricane dual home/reef... slightly upgraded.
The base unit comes with an inline carbon filter, I added a standard canister for normal carbon cartridges. It also came with a single stage DI cart, I added a 2nd stage.
Well water comes in ~300 on my TDS meter. Through sediment, 5m carbon (just one, I don't have to worry about chlorine or chloramine), and RO membrane. Normally, RO water runs 7-9 on the TDS meter after the RO membrane. Waste water goes to the swimming pool during the summer, down the drain in winter. RO water stored in a 5g pressure tank, feeds a faucet at the kitchen sink, and feeds the ice and water in the fridge. Premeate pump keep the pressure in the storage tank equal to well pressure. From there, it goes back through the 2 stage DI, and to my sump room. Splits there to the timed solenoid/float valve arrangement on my ATO reservoir, and to a manual valve for filling my water change barrel.
The base unit comes with an inline carbon filter, I added a standard canister for normal carbon cartridges. It also came with a single stage DI cart, I added a 2nd stage.
Well water comes in ~300 on my TDS meter. Through sediment, 5m carbon (just one, I don't have to worry about chlorine or chloramine), and RO membrane. Normally, RO water runs 7-9 on the TDS meter after the RO membrane. Waste water goes to the swimming pool during the summer, down the drain in winter. RO water stored in a 5g pressure tank, feeds a faucet at the kitchen sink, and feeds the ice and water in the fridge. Premeate pump keep the pressure in the storage tank equal to well pressure. From there, it goes back through the 2 stage DI, and to my sump room. Splits there to the timed solenoid/float valve arrangement on my ATO reservoir, and to a manual valve for filling my water change barrel.
Potatohead
Valuable Member
Exactly, glad to see you say that. People go crazy with expectations of PSI and RO/DI systems.
I can't speak for dual membrane setups like the unit from BRS, but I can say that while more pressure is better, it's certainly not necessary. Dow rates their 75GPD membrane at 50PSI. This means that at 50PSI of pressure, you should get the exact product water and rejection rates that Dow quotes in their manual.
Dow's manual also shows a graph of what type of product water flow you can expect at various pressures. Dow's 75GPD membrane is the top line in the graph below. Note that the product water is 75 GPD at 50PSI:
I don't mean to say that there's no reason to ever run a membrane at higher than 50PSI. But, if your pressure is "only" 50 PSI, relax. For Dow 75GPD membranes, that's plenty. Again, this is only for single membrane setups. But my point stands.
I guess so. I mean it works yes of course but at 75 psi you are now making 118 gpd while saving a bit in resin consumption and water expense. If you live in a cold area where your cold water may only be like 40° at 50 psi it's going to take a really long time if you need to make 30 gallons of water.
Most good units have a gauge before the membrane, I also use a second one before my sediment filter. You could put another one after the membrane I guess but I don't believe pressure matters much at that point.
JoshH
Tank Status: Wet...ish, growing things....
My spectrapure came with a pressure gauge preinstalled, what we were talking about was adding a second one after my first membrane but before my second membrane(BRS Water saver upgrade so no preinstalled gauge). Mostly to just see the pressure loss after the first to see what my second one is getting
curiosity you knowSimilar threads
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