Something is VERY wrong with my fish

Paul B

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Sounds like melypr has a good plan. :)
 
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Breakthecycle2

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I think you should tackle one problem at a time. Focus and fix one thing at a time. First kill the ick. Keep the copper in the QT at the proper dose and for the recommended amount of time. Then slowly lower the copper until it's gone and treat for any other secondary infections/problems. If the only thing to do after treating the ick is to fatten up your fish, then I think your doing good. You can do it!
I wasn't planning on stopping treatment, but its hard waking up and seeing fish struggle with no visible signs of anything wrong. The copper should have knocked most parasites out by now with the exception of flukes. The Tang and my snow bass were the first two fish I took out. Both had cloudy eyes and signs of white spots on them. All that went away after a few days in QT. Now other fish that have been in there for awhile are suddenly just dropping dead, struggling to breath and now the Tang is not eating and looks very skinny. Copper sensitive? Maybe, but something is still going on. Flukes? Could be which explains the labored breathing. Internal parasites? Also could be, but the copper should have been somewhat effective by now, correct? Do I just have everything going on? I can't answer that. What I can say is, Im tired of seeing seemingly "healthy" fish drop dead when I am doing what was recommended to me to do.
 

melypr1985

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I'm so sorry I know its hard. In a situation like this, there is no win-win. Its do the best you can and hope/prey that it's enough. There's no way your going to save them all.... as you've already seen. You can't treat for everything (assuming you knew what everything was) at the same time anyway. So that's why I say to complete the copper treatment first, then move on to the next worst problem and treat that. It's one step at a time... Take a step, reevaluate, take another step, reevaluate.

This is awful, and I've been following along from the beginning in hopes that it will all turn around for you and have a happy ending. I only speak up when I think my words will make a difference. I truly believe that full commitment to one treatment, then committing to the next treatment for the next problem is the best way to confront this problem. Sometimes, you can only do your best. This is one of those times.

Again... I'm so sorry for this terrible situation.
 

vedros74

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First sorry to hear about what's going on with your tank. I to never qaurantined my fish in the past and was lucky until one day my fish just starting dropping. I lost everything but a pair of clowns which I still have. I tried my hardest to hurry and qaurantine but no such luck. I personally like the fish just a bit more than corals so I decided to upgrade to my current tank after the disaster. I still don't know what it was or which fish brought it in but I now qaurantine every single fish that enters my tank no matter how healthy or sick it looks. I use a product called copper power rather than cupramine,it's supposed to be 60 times less toxic on the fish. I've successfully ran sensitive fish through Qaurantine with copper power including powder blue,potters, and black leopard wrasse. Also let my new tank run fallow 72 days since I used most of my old tank water. I understand what your going through but all I can tell you is melypr1985 is giving you sound advice, all you can do is run the treatment and hope for the best. Once you are through this rough patch and you start qaurantining you will be able to enjoy your tank again. Best of luck
 

4FordFamily

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I think you should tackle one problem at a time. Focus and fix one thing at a time. First kill the ick. Keep the copper in the QT at the proper dose and for the recommended amount of time. Then slowly lower the copper until it's gone and treat for any other secondary infections/problems. If the only thing to do after treating the ick is to fatten up your fish, then I think your doing good. You can do it!
And if the tang doesn't eat, it wasn't well anyway.

I have had 13 tangs in copper for 4 months now due to two moronic mistakes requiring fallow periods and they're thriving. I had several others I bought and established that I sold to make room for others until I got the right mix and mix of temperaments I wanted. No problems.
 

Humblefish

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How long were the fish in copper before you removed it? What brand of copper are you using and did you test to ensure it remained at therapeutic levels? Sorry, you've probably already answered these questions but I can't remember.

If you're concerned about flukes, the easiest thing to do is FW dip one of the fish that is breathing heavy to check for that. Or FW dip them all just to be sure. If no flukes fall out after 3-4 mins in the dip, you'll know no gill flukes are present so there's no need to use Prazipro.

If any of your fish had internal parasites you would see a shrunken stomach and white stringy poop.
 
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Breakthecycle2

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They were in copper for 16 days. Im just reducing it to see if it the appetite picks back up. To be honest, what looks like white poop to me, might not be to someone else.
 

NeuroticAquatics

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I do not see a down side to the freshwater dip suggestion. It either eliminates a possibility or shows at least part of what is going on. Humblefish...would you add Methylene Blue?

The white stringy poop is usually pretty obvious. When healthy, it is usually solid and greenish.
 
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Humblefish

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I do not see a down side to the freshwater dip suggestion. It either eliminates a possibility or shows at least part of what is going on. Humblefish...would you add Methylene Blue?

The white stringy poop is usually pretty obvious. When healthy, it is usually solid and greenish.

Methylene Blue is excellent to use with either a FW dip or chemical bath (except acriflavine). I usually dose one capful per 2 gallons of water. However, I only use Methylene Blue in a small glass aquarium or white bucket so I can still see the fish and how well he's breathing thru the dye.
 
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Breakthecycle2

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Methylene Blue is excellent to use with either a FW dip or chemical bath (except acriflavine). I usually dose one capful per 2 gallons of water. However, I only use Methylene Blue in a small glass aquarium or white bucket so I can still see the fish and how well he's breathing thru the dye.

I am afraid of FW dips. I have done it 4 times and killed them all. I matched PH and temp and left them in for 3-5 minutes.
 

Humblefish

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I am afraid of FW dips. I have done it 4 times and killed them all. I matched PH and temp and left them in for 3-5 minutes.

I've done probably hundreds of FW dips over a 35 year period and have never lost a fish that wasn't already on death's doorstep.
 

4FordFamily

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I've done probably hundreds of FW dips over a 35 year period and have never lost a fish that wasn't already on death's doorstep.
This.
 

Lowell Lemon

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Sorry for your continued losses. Have you checked for stray voltage in the QT? Induced voltage is created by any magnetic impeller driven pump. Check to make sure your heater is not cracked or you have a voltage leak somewhere else. I use titanium ground probes in all my tanks to prevent induced voltage. Just a thought based on past experiance. May not be related to your losses...but worth a check.
 

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