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Interesting to this old heathkit builder. I especially liked the use of the 12 volt relay to isolate the 120v AC from the water. I have seen and heard of some that used the float switched to directly control the 120v ac pumps which is extremely dangerous. Like killing dangerous.I do have two thoughts, question, concerns, and or general confusions. LOL
The first is siphon problems. Most would have the sump near for floor in the cabinet. With the ato pump/bucket at the same or above height wouldn't a siphon form through the pump and keep filling the sump with the pump off? Could there also be a reverse siphon through the pump with the pump off? In the latter case you just have the pump output above the sump water level to break the siphon. But with the first I can't see a way of preventing that unless the ato supply is below the sump level. Secondly (and the testing I forgot to do in my first sump resulting in a flood months later. LOL) what about a drain failure (siphon break or blockage). The sump level goes down, display up, ato kicks in and continues running until the ato supply runs dry. With the real possibility of a display flood before running dry. Wouldn't it be a very good idea to add a display level float switch in series with the lower ato float switch so that both have to be below a certain level for the pump to kick in. So if the display goes up through a drain failure, the ato pump turns off. Just a couple of random thoughts. Hey I may even use these to keep my FW tank with no sump topped off. I get tired of carrying water to it. LOL my .02