Lbacha’s 25g Lagoon & 8g Peninsula zoa & SPS garden

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lbacha

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Well I had some concerns about drilling the thin glass on the 15g column. All worked out so I’m happy about that

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Water test was successful, no leaks. I tested the par on the kessil and it is going to work out well over the lagoon

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Looking great! Anything with the 8020 stand that you would change? I'm starting to get my parts list together soon, so trying to figure out counter bore, corner brackets, etc....
 
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Looking great! Anything with the 8020 stand that you would change? I'm starting to get my parts list together soon, so trying to figure out counter bore, corner brackets, etc....

What size tank are you building

I went with single counter bites and anchors for each of the horizontal pieces. I then used 2 hole brackets in each corner on the horizontal plane for extra strength.

I have a little wobble due to the height of the stand but not a lot. I may add 45’ braces to the back to eliminate this
 

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It’s looking awesome Ibacha. Nice work. You’re leaps and bounds ahead of my similar build and looking way nicer! I can’t even get my doors on my stand to hang even [emoji1751]‍[emoji3603]
 

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Same tank with similar ghost style overflow, but will have a 24" sump, so I'll probably go 26" wide on the stand and 21" front to back. Most likely 32" high? I'll add a center piece on the top and bottom for added support and maybe side support as well? I'll be using the black 10 series extrusion from tnutz. The "legs" will go under the top extrusion and go to the floor with leveling feet, while the bottom will connect between the legs.
 
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Same tank with similar ghost style overflow, but will have a 24" sump, so I'll probably go 26" wide on the stand and 21" front to back. Most likely 32" high? I'll add a center piece on the top and bottom for added support and maybe side support as well? I'll be using the black 10 series extrusion from tnutz. The "legs" will go under the top extrusion and go to the floor with leveling feet, while the bottom will connect between the legs.

You should be fine with that setup
 
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So I put my neotherm heater in the display tank while I moved the sump. Evidently coralline algae was not a fan of the heat

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I would strongly consider using the RFG on your return, it's a simple way of adding random flow to the tank without adding multiple powerheads.
https://vividcreativeaquatics.com/product-category/water-movement/

Those are good but my flow isn’t high enough for it to work. I only do about 5 times turnover in my display tanks so for the new tank that will be about 100-125 gph. I rely on internal pumps for water flow. I have a 1k gyre and right now there is a ton of water movement at 80%. I will have to see how it is once I add rock work but I’m going with an open scape so there should t be too many dead areas. If there are I will add a second gyre or a mp10.
 

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Those are good but my flow isn’t high enough for it to work. I only do about 5 times turnover in my display tanks so for the new tank that will be about 100-125 gph. I rely on internal pumps for water flow. I have a 1k gyre and right now there is a ton of water movement at 80%. I will have to see how it is once I add rock work but I’m going with an open scape so there should t be too many dead areas. If there are I will add a second gyre or a mp10.
Sounds like a solid plan.
 

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Parts lists and diagrams of the stands would be awesome?!
 
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Parts lists and diagrams of the stands would be awesome?!

Here is what the frame looked like before skinning it with pine panels (it doesn’t have the center supports of the extra rear support yet)

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The aluminum all series 10 t slot

Front Legs - 2 x 2 slot (2 flat faces) x 36”
Back legs - 2 x 3 slot (1 flat face) x 36”
Front and back Horizontal supports - 4 x 3 slot x 34” with counterbores for anchors
Side horizontal supports - 4 x 3 slot x 22” with counterbores for anchors
Center supports - 2 x 4 slot x 22”
Rear support - 1 x 4 slot x 34”

I used tslot anchors for the supports and just normal 1 and 2 hole brackets for everything else
 
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I finished putting my water station together

Parts
BRS 4 stage RO unit
2 - 20 gallon upright containers
2 - quiet one 1200 pumps
2 - 1/2” quick disconnects from BRS (one set up with a hose and the other with a hard pipe for filling the saltwater container and 5 gallon jugs on the floor
1/2” cpvc to connect everything (the pump and disconnects came with 1/2” male threaded fittings so I just got female threaded fittings to connect everything)

I didn’t want to hard pipe anything outside the tanks since it’s a smaller setup so I went with separate pumps in each container.

I put an cpvc riser off each pump with a male disconnect end just below the lid on each container

I also created a U shaped fitting out of cobs with a disconnect on it that circulates the salt water in the salt container (there is also a 150w heater in there.

I bought cheap plug in switches from home depot to turn the pumps on and off

Quiet one 1200’s with 1/2” cpvc risers (the pump on the left us the quick disconnect as well
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Cpvc that I set up to fill the saltwater container and 5 gallon jugs. It extends to about a foot off the bottom of the tank
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1/2” Hose with a quick disconnect fitting on the end for filling smaller containers
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If you look in the saltwater container you can see the u shaped fitting I made to circulate saltwater. I need another quick disconnect fitting from BRS to finish it right now it’s just pushed into the cpvc pipe
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Fusion in reefing: How do you feel about grafted corals?

  • I strongly prefer grafted corals and I seek them out to put in my tank.

    Votes: 3 3.7%
  • I find grafted corals appealing and would be open to having them in my tank.

    Votes: 47 57.3%
  • I am indifferent about grafted corals and am not enthusiastic about having them in my tank.

    Votes: 23 28.0%
  • I have reservations about grafted corals and would generally avoid having them in my tank.

    Votes: 6 7.3%
  • I have a negative perception and would avoid having grafted corals in my tank.

    Votes: 3 3.7%
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