SPS STN from the tips, looking very brittle. NOT ALK SWING

reefwiser

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Get a Triton test and send it in. Better than guessing if you have a chemistry issue. You should see changes in your Alk reading it should not stay steady at 7.7 every reading should move upwards or downwards.This shows coral growth. This is common SP"S issue that you will see develop in the 3 to 4 week time period when a coral has been introduced to the aquarium. Causes of light shock and parameter shock are the most common causes.
Placing corals low in the aquarium and leaving them there for several months then slowly bringing them to the spot you want them to be is the best coarse of action for light acclimation. When putting a coral into your tank Drip acclimate the coral to your water chemistry. I generally drip acclimate they corals for 2 hours before placing them in my aquarium.
 
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Get a Triton test and send it in. Better than guessing if you have a chemistry issue. You should see changes in your Alk reading it should not stay steady at 7.7 every reading should move upwards or downwards.This shows coral growth. This is common SP"S issue that you will see develop in the 3 to 4 week time period when a coral has been introduced to the aquarium. Causes of light shock and parameter shock are the most common causes.
Placing corals low in the aquarium and leaving them there for several months then slowly bringing them to the spot you want them to be is the best coarse of action for light acclimation. When putting a coral into your tank Drip acclimate the coral to your water chemistry. I generally drip acclimate they corals for 2 hours before placing them in my aquarium.

I have gotten 2 triton test and posted the unwanted heavy metals on the first post of this thread, definitely not guessing on what those levels are. I do have no idea where they are coming from though. Why should my alk change when I am dosing 2 part and monitoring my alk everyday? If it is not as pink on salifert as the day before at .5 then I will raise my 2 part alk dose and look very careful the next day. I should not want my alk moving in either way. I think this is something completely different then light acclimation, etc because the reefers I am getting them from have very similar setups.
 
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I am not sure if this is anything but before the move of the tank when my corals did great. My rose bubble tip anemone used to extend very very long and almost look like a long tentacle anemone. Now in the new home it is a lot smaller and bubbles up like the pictures you see on live aquaria etc. Would that prove anything?
 

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Cody, I would think that is a normal reaction moving from one water source to the next. Regardless if your alk/calc...etc look the same on a test result your water chemistry from place to place is different. I have moved a few times and each time the coral react differently, sometimes its a good thing and sometimes its not to good imo.

A lot of good comments have been made. IMHO I would think it could be a few different things. The metals you are getting could be causing the delayed stn reaction, you may have a pest like aefw but if you have dipped and show nothing...then probably not. That aside I believe its two different things causing this. Alk being to low or your dry rock and maturity of the tank. Get a hanna alk checker as they are the BEST testing alk kits out there. I have had issue after issue with bad alk testing of titration methods for yrs(salifert was biggest issue I've had). The other possibility is your dry rock leaching something as I truly don't believe dry rock has cycled for a year or so, and your sps will slowly die like this for the first year in response to the dry rock. Other than that I can't see anything else. If you have checked all your equipment impellers for rust.....idono.
 
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Cody, I would think that is a normal reaction moving from one water source to the next. Regardless if your alk/calc...etc look the same on a test result your water chemistry from place to place is different. I have moved a few times and each time the coral react differently, sometimes its a good thing and sometimes its not to good imo.

A lot of good comments have been made. IMHO I would think it could be a few different things. The metals you are getting could be causing the delayed stn reaction, you may have a pest like aefw but if you have dipped and show nothing...then probably not. That aside I believe its two different things causing this. Alk being to low or your dry rock and maturity of the tank. Get a hanna alk checker as they are the BEST testing alk kits out there. I have had issue after issue with bad alk testing of titration methods for yrs(salifert was biggest issue I've had). The other possibility is your dry rock leaching something as I truly don't believe dry rock has cycled for a year or so, and your sps will slowly die like this for the first year in response to the dry rock. Other than that I can't see anything else. If you have checked all your equipment impellers for rust.....idono.

Thanks for the reply. I am starting to think it is just the new tank and dry rock even though thats exactly the same as I had in my old setup and never had a problem so while it makes absolutely zero sense. I guess that is what I have to go with. which sucks because there are so many instances of people adding SPS within the first month and it being completely fine, this is why dry rock too. I am only 6 months with this tank and great coralline growth everywhere.
 

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Alk will move down or up over time due to growth of corals as they grow so should the uptake of Alk and Cal and mag.
Tin (Sn at 4.3)
Copper (Cu at 6.97)
Aluminum (Al 8.5)
Silicon (Si 273)
Lithium (Li 453)
These have been reported by many hobbies. You could check your RO water to see if your source water contains these levels.
 

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I would do these first. Check alk with a different test, tips usually high alk indicator. Bugs start at bottom. Also what is your par? Did you buy any rock or sand used previously in a tank? Could be leaching coppper.
 

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I would kind of reset your tank. Do a couple 50% water changes a few days apart from each other to get out whatever could be in the tank. Then I would go back to basic stuff and quit dosing things. It's weird your corals look worst when you stopped dosing and went back to basics.
 
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I would kind of reset your tank. Do a couple 50% water changes a few days apart from each other to get out whatever could be in the tank. Then I would go back to basic stuff and quit dosing things. It's weird your corals look worst when you stopped dosing and went back to basics.


I check alk with 2 different salifert tests, both the same which i used on my old tank when I had great success with SPS. Exact same equipment from last setup. Only difference is I started with dry rock from BRS when before I did an acid bath of old live rock. I am really really starting to think that the dry rock from BRS is leaching this stuff and nothing thing I can do is wait it out and do water changes. I am going to do some 30g water changes coming up to try to get as much new and pure water as possible, I do not want to do anything more then 30g change at once though. I am going to stop dosing the FWS and coral booster when I do the water change which is tomorrow, once I get the new DI canister setup. Then we will go from there to see how things look.
 
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I would do these first. Check alk with a different test, tips usually high alk indicator. Bugs start at bottom. Also what is your par? Did you buy any rock or sand used previously in a tank? Could be leaching coppper.

no idea what par is, never tested because this light is used by many so i just have it at the same height and not worrying about that. I am starting to think my dry rock from BRS that i started with is leaching stuff.
 
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I would stop dosing anything besides 3 part. Eliminate the variables. You don't need vitality and FWS

this is exactly what I am doing, I am looking into dosing a little bit of iodine though. I have seen multiple posts that they had slow stn from tips after they put new corals in their tank because they had a lack of iodine and when they started dosing it, the problem went away
 

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What were the iodine levels on your Triton test?
 
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The updated coral pics you put up on RC look promising ;)

Thank you. So strange because I was just about to post here and that is why I came on that the water changes really helped. I am going to start a thread on here later once I get more time.
 

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It always seems if things are going bad, a couple of large water changes helps reset things. Hopefully your tank is back on track!
 
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It always seems if things are going bad, a couple of large water changes helps reset things. Hopefully your tank is back on track!

Yup this is true I am finding out and I am going to do consistent water changes going forward because of this. Just have to make sure you mix the alk so it is the same.
 

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