Starting a 46 gallon bow front reef, any suggestions welcomed

[Dante]

I recently purchased a second hand 46 gallon bow front with the stand and was going to upgrade my current nano 10 gallon to this new tank at some point.

I have never drilled a tank before but I have drilled glass before so I'm confident I can do this. The tank has a tempered glass sticker so I made sure to check the back glass using the white lcd and polarized lenses method. The back and sides shouldn't be polarized based on my test so it should be safe to drill right?

I wanted to build my own sump and I think I'll only be able to squeeze a 10 gallon or 20 gallon long under my stand, so I've drawn up what it might look like along with some potential plumbing.

I wasnt going to drill a spot for the return bulkhead but figured why not if I'm already drilling for the overflow. I'm sure I could use the same drill bit and template that comes with the eshoppes eclipse m overflow I plan on using. I also plan on using the BH50 skimmer from reef octopus and the DC4000 return pump from Jecod.

I wanted to post this as sort of a build thread that I can update as the build progresses. I'm opened to all forms of help and suggestions considering it's my first time doing this. Currently I'm looking for reassurance that everything I'm doing is on track. Thanks a million and I'll keep updating this

 

[dankaqua]

Just came across your thread...

The tank has a tempered glass sticker so I made sure to check the back glass using the white lcd and polarized lenses method. The back and sides shouldn't be polarized based on my test so it should be safe to drill right?

I can't comment on the "white lcd and polarized lenses method" but a lot of times aquarium makers use non-tempered glass in conjunction with tempered glass (especially for curved glass). I'd contact the manufacturer and ask them directly if the back glass is safe to drill.

Regarding your sketch, you might consider a "bean animal" overflow instead of the "herbie" design. The former has 3 pipes: one at full suction, one at a very low rate (for balancing purposes) and a third for the emergency overflow.

The pipe on the right is the "full suction" side. This overflow design is ultra quiet.

Going with your herbie overflow, you might put that gate valve a bit higher than the sketch indicates.

Last point I'd make is regarding the mesh inside the glass baffle. I can see trying to clean up the water before it returns to your display, but typically mesh is put where the water first enters the sump.

Filter socks (5 or 10 micron) do a really good job of catching debris and are usually placed where the water is entering the sump. Those socks are also easy to remove and clean.

Good luck with the tank!

 

[Dante]

Just came across your thread...


I can't comment on the "white lcd and polarized lenses method" but a lot of times aquarium makers use non-tempered glass in conjunction with tempered glass (especially for curved glass). I'd contact the manufacturer and ask them directly if the back glass is safe to drill.

Regarding your sketch, you might consider a "bean animal" overflow instead of the "herbie" design. The former has 3 pipes: one at full suction, one at a very low rate (for balancing purposes) and a third for the emergency overflow.

The pipe on the right is the "full suction" side. This overflow design is ultra quiet.

Going with your herbie overflow, you might put that gate valve a bit higher than the sketch indicates.

Last point I'd make is regarding the mesh inside the glass baffle. I can see trying to clean up the water before it returns to your display, but typically mesh is put where the water first enters the sump.

Filter socks (5 or 10 micron) do a really good job of catching debris and are usually placed where the water is entering the sump. Those socks are also easy to remove and clean.

Good luck with the tank!

Thanks for the reply and I did consider using the large eshoppes overflow and doing a bean animal but figured that the overflow box was kind of overkill due to tank size. Is there a reason to move the gate valve up? I figured it could stay low for easy access when I just open the stand instead of reaching behind. It would drain less water into the sump also if I needed to close it.

Also I know the mesh section is a bit unconventional but I watched a video on building a 10 gallon sump that showed it off and it looked cool, was just a thought. I'll try to link the video if I can find it.

 

[dankaqua]

Removed

 

[Dante]

[Removed]

 

[gabrieltackitt]

Last point I'd make is regarding the mesh inside the glass baffle. I can see trying to clean up the water before it returns to your display, but typically mesh is put where the water first enters the sump.

I actually am doing the same thing. It’s less for filtering the water and more for keeping Fuge junk out of the return section, mine keeps Chaetomorpha out of my return. I don’t do a fine mesh, just the eggcrate, I found that more than enough but still will let pods from the refugium get sucked up the return.

 

[dankaqua]

What?! Lol

Could you edit your post please? No idea how that posted to this page and not in the PM it was intended for...

 

[Dante]

I actually am doing the same thing. It’s less for filtering the water and more for keeping Fuge junk out of the return section, mine keeps Chaetomorpha out of my return. I don’t do a fine mesh, just the eggcrate, I found that more than enough but still will let pods from the refugium get sucked up the return.

I believe those were the reasons mentioned in the video I saw but I couldn't find it. I was thinking it would be as easy as pulling them straight up and out

 

[Reef-junky]

Get rid of the check valve they are not reliable. Also get rid of the ball valve. You shouldn’t be closing a valve against the return pump. The valve on the overflow I would leave low like it is.

 

[Dante]

Get rid of the check valve they are not reliable. Also get rid of the ball valve. You shouldn’t be closing a valve against the return pump. The valve on the overflow I would leave low like it is.

I figured I have the check valve as more a piece of mind, I wont plan on it working but it might be nice for piece of mind, it couldn't hurt right?

I also saw this syphon stoppers that people say is good, just keeping an opened mind.

Fish Tank Siphon Stopper® Aquarium Output Nozzle - Custom Aquariums

Our fish tank Siphon Stopper minimizes the risk of a back siphon into your sump, giving flexibility to manipulate water flow of your aquarium.

www.customaquariums.com

And the idea behind the ball valve wasnt to restrict flow but just for maintenance, thought maybe it would make it easier.

 

[Reef-junky]

I figured I have the check valve as more a piece of mind, I wont plan on it working but it might be nice for piece of mind, it couldn't hurt right?

I also saw this syphon stoppers that people say is good, just keeping an opened mind.

Fish Tank Siphon Stopper® Aquarium Output Nozzle - Custom Aquariums

Our fish tank Siphon Stopper minimizes the risk of a back siphon into your sump, giving flexibility to manipulate water flow of your aquarium.

www.customaquariums.com

And the idea behind the ball valve wasnt to restrict flow but just for maintenance, thought maybe it would make it easier.

Check valves are notorious for failure so I hardly call the a pice of mind. If you are using lock line then just put the output barley below the water line. Your sump should be designed so it can handle the water that will back flow from the return pipe if you turn your pump off. Your valve really doesn’t have much of a point as all it would do is stop a small amount of water from draining from the tank. You are putting a check valve but even the article you posted says they are propane to failure. That siphon stopper thing is a waste of money as all you have to do is put the lock line just below the water line to stop a siphon.

 

[Dante]

Check valves are notorious for failure so I hardly call the a pice of mind. If you are using lock line then just put the output barley below the water line. Your sump should be designed so it can handle the water that will back flow from the return pipe if you turn your pump off. Your valve really doesn’t have much of a point as all it would do is stop a small amount of water from draining from the tank. You are putting a check valve but even the article you posted says they are propane to failure. That siphon stopper thing is a waste of money as all you have to do is put the lock line just below the water line to stop a siphon.

You're right and I agree, but would those syphon stoppers be worth it if I needed the lock line lower for better flow or just dont bother and use a powerhead for that I guess.

 

[Reef-junky]

You're right and I agree, but would those syphon stoppers be worth it if I needed the lock line lower for better flow or just dont bother and use a powerhead for that I guess.

The point of the return pump is not for flow but to run your water though your filtration and surface agitation. Power heads are for flow. A simple hole in the side of a return pipe just below the water surface will break a siphon as well so no I wouldn’t waste $35 on that thing.

 

[Reef-junky]

There are two basic sump designs

 

[Dante]

There are two basic sump designs

The bottom photo, is that return line just split for a rufugium with a gate valve to control flow? And another gate on the main return? My little sketch is based more off the top picture, I've seen it before.

 

[Dante]

I've also been wondering about lighting for this new tank. Originally I was going to use the Coral Box Moon LED I'm currently running on my 10 gallon and was planning on getting a second one to use on the new tank. I do however have a single 36" florescent fixture that I got with the purchase of the 46 gallon and stand.

What I'm asking is what T5 to use and if my best option is to use the one LED fixture and one T5 bulb or two LEDs or all three together.

 

[a4edwin]

There are two basic sump designs

What’s the point of the second one?

 

[Dante]

What’s the point of the second one?

To me it looks basically the same as the first picture but the middle and right chambers are flipped. The return is in the middle and is split to slowly release water to the right side with a gate valve, possibly for a fuge. Then it just runs over and back into the middle to be sent to the display. What confuses me is the gate valve on the main return, not sure why you'd want to add extra head pressure to your return pump.

 

[Reef-junky]

What’s the point of the second one?

They are bleeding the speed off the return pump and feeding the refugium with it. Very common design.

 

[Reef-junky]

To me it looks basically the same as the first picture but the middle and right chambers are flipped. The return is in the middle and is split to slowly release water to the right side with a gate valve, possibly for a fuge. Then it just runs over and back into the middle to be sent to the display. What confuses me is the gate valve on the main return, not sure why you'd want to add extra head pressure to your return pump.

Don’t know why they put that other valve there. The only thing I can think is for pump maintenance so they don’t have to drain the line.