Starting a cycle with Fritz Zyme 9, how much should I dump in my system?

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E556C24D-A25C-4F61-A36A-65EC3493B844.png

How’s it looking so far? Haven’t ghost fed anything yet or dosed ammonia.
It’s tough for me to estimate where exactly the API test kit is reading… any tips?
 

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Wondering why you have Ammonia and Nitrate already with new rock and new sand.
 
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Wondering why you have Ammonia and Nitrate already with new rock and new sand.
Pretty odd right? If I run the tests again and post pictures of the test tubes next to the results color charts - do you think you’d be able to tell me if I’m approximating the values correctly?

or would that be difficult to tell via a picture
 

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To my eyes, it looks like 5ppm of Nitrate and .25ppm of Ammonia.
Could be the new dry rock and live sand that is causing the anomaly, I wouldn't worry about it. Don't know if you decided to cycle the tank with ammonia or fish but here's some interesting statements by Brightwell in regards to dry seeded rock. (Pitfalls #5)
 
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To my eyes, it looks like 5ppm of Nitrate and .25ppm of Ammonia.
Could be the new dry rock and live sand that is causing the anomaly, I wouldn't worry about it. Don't know if you decided to cycle the tank with ammonia or fish but here's some interesting statements by Brightwell in regards to dry seeded rock. (Pitfalls #5)
Okay good looks, I did not give the bacteria any ammonia to feed on. Was thinking about getting some of that “fishless fuel” that Fritz makes… either that or ghost feeding.

Thanks for your response and for that link too!
 
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To my eyes, it looks like 5ppm of Nitrate and .25ppm of Ammonia.
Could be the new dry rock and live sand that is causing the anomaly, I wouldn't worry about it. Don't know if you decided to cycle the tank with ammonia or fish but here's some interesting statements by Brightwell in regards to dry seeded rock. (Pitfalls #5)
Hmm… I wonder if the same concept applies to Fritz Zyme 9? I definitely wish I knew that about “live sand” before I decided to go with it in my tank.

Not the end of the world but sounds like my cycle might take longer, and I might need to double my dosage of Zyme 9.
 

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Years ago I tried Fritz Zyme 9 and found it not very effective but Their Turbo Start 900 was spot on but hard to find locally.
 
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Years ago I tried Fritz Zyme 9 and found it not very effective but Their Turbo Start 900 was spot on but hard to find locally.
My LFS stocks it in a refrigerator at the back of their store - you think I would have any issues adding some turbo start 900 in addition to the Zyme 9 I’ve already dumped in?
 

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The Fritz Zyme 9 was for a new tank with nothing live and that took close to a month.
The Turbo Start 900 was for a quarantine/hospital tank and also nothing live which took a little over a week. There is a lengthy thread where a member tested various bottled bacteria ( which seems to have disappeared) and if I remember correctly, he said there was only a few that worked as stated which was what steered me to Turbo Start.
If you are going the fishless route, I wouldn't go out of the way to add the Turbo Start. If your going to add those two orange storms then I would go and get the Turbo Start to be safe.
 

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Hi, I'm back after a long day at work. I just want to emphasize that if you use a high quality nitrifying bacterial product (that's not expired and according to its directions), have a system with plenty of rock surface (for the bacteria to colonize), and have major parameters in acceptable ranges and that are relatively stable (temp, salinity, etc.), then you are instantly cycled. There's no need to wait days, weeks, or months. You are "cycled". API test kits are practically useless as most on R2R will tell you. The only thing the API ammonia test is good for is to tell you if you have a HUGE ammonia problem (as in a big dead fish under a rock somewhere).
The old practices of cycling work just fine if you want to go that route. However, with the bottled bacteria products, why use the old-fashioned methods? Add a couple of somewhat hardy, not-too-expensive, and pre-quarantined fish and/or a handful of cleanup crew and start having fun.
 

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Have you considered a fishless cycle with ammonia, 3 companies has the product (Tim's Aquatics, Fritz Aquatics, Brightwell Aquatics).
Imo, you would end up with a stronger bacteria bed since there is plenty of food for the bottled bacteria and the cycle would in most likelihood be quicker.
I'm using AlgaeBarn's Nitrocycle for fishless cycle, with Fritz Turbostart 900. The Nitrocycle is nice as it's one dose. :)
 

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I have reached the point of being ready to start the cycle in my newly set up Waterbox Marine X 90.3, and I will be using Fritz Zyme 9 to get the cycle started.

I have a 32oz bottle of Fritz Zyme 9 which recommends using:
4oz per 5 gallons for new systems and
2oz per 5 gallons for established systems.

My display is 59.3 gallons and my sump is 25.7 gallons.

In the display I have 60 pounds of caribsea arag-alive special grade sand, and a fair amount of carib sea liferock. (see attached pictures).
I'm going to put some more liferock in the sump before I start the cycle... but my question is this:

Should I run out and buy another 32oz bottle of zyme 9? Roughly 85 gallons of volume in my system, minus ~10(?) gallons from rock and sand displacement (maybe more?). Plus my sump isn't filled to the brim, so subtract another 10 gallons? Therefore, there is approximately 65 gallons of water in circulation.?

my maths....
(85 - 10 -10 = 65g)
(4oz per 5 gal)
(65/5 = 13)
--> 13*4 = 52 oz
So if I follow the directions, I would need 52oz of fritz zyme 9, since this is a new system.

Should I go buy another bottle? Or would 32oz be fine?

Not sure if my rock/sand volume displacement estimations are even close, please see the attached images for reference.

Also, will be doing a full build thread! Excited to get started.

tempImageYprLkN.png tempImagemnveJg.png
Nice tank!
FZ9 is my preferred starting bacteria, I don’t really measure. I just pour it directly over the media, wait a week or two and pour the other half in…
 

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