Starting over after 30 yr downtime.

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Hello All. What a fantastic site.
Retired now and time is on my side. Or not.

Ready to order a Waterbox 60.2. Attached is a excel speed sheet of the items. Still working on my pumps. I want all DC pumps and even heaters. No AC power in the tank. Had a bad dream yrs ago in color of being electrocuted.

I believe simple is best. in the 80's I didn't have a Par meter or anything fancy. Move stuff up or down and if your Eyes said something didn't look good do some partial water changes.

Plan is cycle out with dead and some live rock . I'm crazy about a bubble anemia and pair of clowns.

UV will be mostly off, I swear by it. Use if needed. I also wasn't a fan of over bio loads. Just more bio to die if things go sour.

All recommendations welcomed.

Pics are of a 1980 90 build.

IMG-3111[571].jpg IMG-3113[573].jpg IMG-3112[572].jpg
 

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HeyLookItsCaps

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Yeehaw welcome back, be prepared to get a LOT of new info and a lot of technology that you didn’t think was possible (if you’re going that route). I was gone for about a decade and when I came back halides were the minority, turn over rate was useless, 0 sum numbers for things were considered bad, and the testing is far more accurate. If you’re like me this may seem like riding a bike, but there is SO much new fun stuff to play with, and with 30 years in the game you can probably afford some of the more advanced parts.

You can check out my build thread if you’re interested and please reach out if you have questions or want second opinions, us old schoolers are different and have to break some “big no no’s” from back when
 
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Syr I left out a huge part. Going all soft at first and few gobies and shrimp. All mated pairs.
 
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Yeehaw welcome back, be prepared to get a LOT of new info and a lot of technology that you didn’t think was possible (if you’re going that route). I was gone for about a decade and when I came back halides were the minority, turn over rate was useless, 0 sum numbers for things were considered bad, and the testing is far more accurate. If you’re like me this may seem like riding a bike, but there is SO much new fun stuff to play with, and with 30 years in the game you can probably afford some of the more advanced parts.

You can check out my build thread if you’re interested and please reach out if you have questions or want second opinions, us old schoolers are different and have to break some “big no no’s” from back when
I get the NO No's. That's why I'm asking. We didn't have forums like this. We hung out at the fish store and asked folks. I'm excited to venture. thx
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Nowadays we care deeply in what you do with your nitrite
 

SillyReef

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Yeah keep is simple is best. At least it’s pretty easy to watch YouTube videos and find things out.
 

pelicansreef

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Welcome back. I understand about being out of the hobby for an extended period of time. My wife and I had a reef back in the early 90's then got out of the hobby for a while when our kids went to college. After the kids were on their own and it was just us for a while we got back in the hobby and were surprised by the changes that had taken place. However, the basics never really change. Our understanding of those basics change but fish are still fish and corals are still corals. Alk and Ca. are still related to each other and they still affect pH the same as it always did. There is a heck of a lot of new gadgets and bell and whistles but they are like a cell phone. They can be useful or they can drive you nuts. It's up to you to decide how much automation you want or can afford, From None to way more expensive than necessary.
 

Rock solid aquascape: Does the weight of the rocks in your aquascape matter?

  • The weight of the rocks is a key factor.

    Votes: 10 8.6%
  • The weight of the rocks is one of many factors.

    Votes: 42 36.2%
  • The weight of the rocks is a minor factor.

    Votes: 35 30.2%
  • The weight of the rocks is not a factor.

    Votes: 28 24.1%
  • Other.

    Votes: 1 0.9%
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