STN on 7 corals. I’m bummed. Do you see cause?

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lubeck

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I can’t really pinpoint what might of caused it or what might stop it. I’m reading up on causes and treatment now.

it’s possible my parameters might have shifted one way too much but I don’t think so. I did get a trident and have noticed a swing in alk by .3 within six hours. I dose 3 part but not much. 16 ml per day.

potential reasons:
I started battling Cyno on the sand about 6-7 weeks ago. Still dealing with it but managing to only having to clean it once a week. I do realize I have an imbalance in the water column.

one thing that happened a couple weeks ago I found that my trident waste water was leaking into my DDR two part vessel. I couldn’t say how many days I was dosing contaminated two part but know the ddr liquid had a purple hue.

I will say that before the Cyno and leading up to it I was feeding the tank 4-6x per day. I would dose AB+ once per week. I would give reef roids 1x per week. My corals coloration was really amazing and had decent polyp extension. did I mention the corals really popped and looked super healthy. I don’t run a skimmer and have fuge in the back chamber.

Once the Cyno came, I stopped aminos, roids and reduced feeding. I lowered my lights for a little over a week. I noticed my corals starting to lose color quickly and started to brown out so I ramped up the light over ten days. could this be the reason? I have about 25 acros and 7 are STN. The others look pretty good and acclimating back to the light. I’m afraid if it will spread to the healthy acros?

I will try to add pics of the acros tomorrow.


Parameters below
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Miami Reef

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I’m a huge believer that temperature is one of the causes of STN/RTN. I raised my temp to 83F and immediately got STN. After I lowered the temp it stopped.

The apex temp probe is not calibrated out of the box. I’d check it with a good cooking thermometer.
 
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lubeck

lubeck

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I’m a huge believer that temperature is one of the causes of STN/RTN. I raised my temp to 83F and immediately got STN. After I lowered the temp it stopped.

The apex temp probe is not calibrated out of the box. I’d check it with a good cooking thermometer.
Yep. I’ve had to calibrate it a few times. it has been hot here and have had some swings. Do you think it’s enough? I need to get a fan. Any recommendation’s?
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Dorsetsteve

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Lots of changes there, to what appears to be a younger tank. Any one of the reasons you thought of may have started the ball or been the straw. Your Cyano was probably driven by your nutrient inputs, like the A&B etc, too mr it sounds like your running before you’ve walked.

If I was you I’d really just stop, remove or stop any non mandatory inputs and stop making reactive changes. Keep things steady and do some quality water changes.
 

jda

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Reducing feeding is never a good idea. You deprived your corals of the only sure thing that gets them nitrogen and also feeds the bacteria/micro-things that they might capture in their slime coats. Ammonia/ammonium from fish waste is the best thing for your corals. If you are having issues, then up the export, but don't cut the import.

Find a way to keep feeding your fish and having your corals be happy, but without letting backend nitrate and phosphate accumulate too much. This is the sweet spot - heavy import and heavy export.
 
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sculpin01

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I’d recommend the following strategy:

1) Dip the affected corals. Black bugs can present this way. I personally favor potassium based dips like Reef Primer.
2) If no bugs, consider bumping your phosphate up to 0.1-0.15. Phosphate is tank specific and what works for some doesn’t necessarily work for all. For instance, my “nursery” tank I put new/wild frags in runs ~0.20-0.30 and everything grows like gang busters. If I try to lower it, I get STN.
3) If all else fails, send a water sample to Aquabiomics to see if there’s a bacterial pathogen involved.
 
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lubeck

lubeck

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I’d recommend the following strategy:

1) Dip the affected corals. Black bugs can present this way. I personally favor potassium based dips like Reef Primer.
2) If no bugs, consider bumping your phosphate up to 0.1-0.15. Phosphate is tank specific and what works for some doesn’t necessarily work for all. For instance, my “nursery” tank I put new/wild frags in runs ~0.20-0.30 and everything grows like gang busters. If I try to lower it, I get STN.
3) If all else fails, send a water sample to Aquabiomics to see if there’s a bacterial pathogen involved.
Any pictures of the black bugs.
 
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