Sump and overflow box please help

[DividedDummies]

I have a 130 gal glass aquarium. I'd like to get everything set up but I am having difficulties trying to decide on an overflow box and sump set up. I have a sicce 5.0 return pump. I believe I need to have 2 1" holes for the overflow to compensate for the flow rate as well as an emergency overflow. I can not decide on what to buy as far as overflow box. Any recommendations or a site? My LFS only had the hang on overflow and I would like to stay away from that. As for the Sump I have a 29 gal aquarium I was going to do a custom build but I don't think it will be large enough for my needs. I would like to have it somthing like this. Overflow to filter socks > carbon media > protein skimmer ( reef octopus classic 150int 6" or the red sea rsk 300) > Refugium > return pump. Any of your recommendations and opinions would be great! I find my self in a never ending research loop and I would like to start making some progress.

 

[andrewey]

Are you building the sump yourself or are you looking for a sump that's already made?

In terms of over, I personally run a bean animal for my plumbing and usually make my own, but I've been very impressed with Reef Savy's overflows (not sure if they are still selling them as seperate overflows anymore). Otherwise, have you checked out synergy or modular marine?

 

[DividedDummies]

Are you building the sump yourself or are you looking for a sump that's already made?

In terms of over, I personally run a bean animal for my plumbing and usually make my own, but I've been very impressed with Reef Savy's overflows (not sure if they are still selling them as seperate overflows anymore). Otherwise, have you checked out synergy or modular marine?

I was originally going to build the sump myself but the aquarium I was going to use is a 29 gal and not a 40 that I originally thought. I am still up in the air about which route to go. All the pre made sumps I've found seem to be around $300 plus. Which I find a little crazy since an empty sump does not do much lol. I wasn't to sure if I should go with a herbie or bean animal. I haven't considered making the overflow myself but that's not a bad idea. Did you use acrylic for yours? I'll def check out synergy and modular Marine. Thanks for the input

 

[andrewey]

Yes, I've usually just bought sheets of black acrlyic and glued them together myself. The trickiest part of building an overflow is the teeth- you can either buy this piece directly or make a jig for maintaining consistent spacing/depth using a table saw or router. Any reason you went with the 29 as opposed to the 40? Was it what was on hand, space under the tank, etc?

 

[DividedDummies]

Yes, I've usually just bought sheets of black acrlyic and glued them together myself. The trickiest part of building an overflow is the teeth- you can either buy this piece directly or make a jig for maintaining consistent spacing/depth using a table saw or router. Any reason you went with the 29 as opposed to the 40? Was it what was on hand, space under the tank, etc?

So by glue you are talking silicone correct? And yes it's just an old one I had laying around. I know 29 will not be large enough for what I am trying to do. Just trying to map out best cost effective option. I still need to purchase a lot of stuff like skimmer, five light, powerheads, salt so trying my best to limit the cost on the sump overflow ect

 

[andrewey]

I use weld on. It will permanently bond the acrylic- silicone really doesn't stick to acrylic well and you're likely to have issues long term.

If the 29 is not going to be large enough, have you considered biting the bullet on the 40 (waiting until Petco's $1 per gallon sale) and picking one up then? You could then convert your 29 into a QT tank, frag tank, etc. Just a thought.

Either way, so long as you map out your dimensions of your sump compartment, you can simply cut the acrlyic for baffles (or buy a kit) and silicone those in place. In this case, the bonds don't have to be structural, so acrlyic to glass is perfectly fine. In the case of your overflow, if any of the panels were to seperate, water could enter the overflow from below the weir and allow more of your tank to drain. If your sump could not handle the extra volume, this could cause a flood. That's why in many applications, it's important that the overflow box is watertight or at the very least, structurally sound.

 

[DividedDummies]

I use weld on. It will permanently bond the acrylic- silicone really doesn't stick to acrylic well and you're likely to have issues long term.

If the 29 is not going to be large enough, have you considered biting the bullet on the 40 (waiting until Petco's $1 per gallon sale) and picking one up then? You could then convert your 29 into a QT tank, frag tank, etc. Just a thought.

Either way, so long as you map out your dimensions of your sump compartment, you can simply cut the acrlyic for baffles (or buy a kit) and silicone those in place. In this case, the bonds don't have to be structural, so acrlyic to glass is perfectly fine. In the case of your overflow, if any of the panels were to seperate, water could enter the overflow from below the weir and allow more of your tank to drain. If your sump could not handle the extra volume, this could cause a flood. That's why in many applications, it's important that the overflow box is watertight or at the very least, structurally sound.

I would like to start this pretty soon so hopefully they have a sale that you mentioned because all the 40's I've seen were over $100. Do you use the weld on to connect the box to the aquarium as well? Thanks again for your input. There are so many options out there I find myself getting lost in the research and not being able to decide

 

[Reefing Madness]

Coast to Coast Overflow box | Melev's Reef

If you want a full length overflow to run along the back of your reef, you'll want a coast-to-coast overflow box. It's four-sided with no backpanel: the front, the ends, and a bottom piece. Usually, the box is 5" tall and 4" deep. Length to be determined by you. For a peninsula tank, you may...

www.melevsreef.com

 

[homer1475]

For an overflow "box", you typically drill the tank, and the box is held in place by bulkheads. Your plumbing to the sump "hangs" from the bottom of the box.

Any box you can buy will require you to drill holes in the tank, unless you go with an over the top style box.

 

[DividedDummies]

For an overflow "box", you typically drill the tank, and the box is held in place by bulkheads. Your plumbing to the sump "hangs" from the bottom of the box.

Any box you can buy will require you to drill holes in the tank, unless you go with an over the top style box.

Yes I'm not worried about drilling the holes just trying to figure best option. I know I seen on a brs video they drilled the holes but the box was held on with silicon as there was no back panel. Idk if I should have 2 small ones on each side or a bigger one in center

 

[DividedDummies]

Coast to Coast Overflow box | Melev's Reef

If you want a full length overflow to run along the back of your reef, you'll want a coast-to-coast overflow box. It's four-sided with no backpanel: the front, the ends, and a bottom piece. Usually, the box is 5" tall and 4" deep. Length to be determined by you. For a peninsula tank, you may...

www.melevsreef.com

Thank you I will check it out

 

[DividedDummies]

Also if any of you guys have any recommendations for an online store for equipment and or plumbing fittings. I like BRS but they seem a bit more expensive than others. I've also been on live aquaria and marine Depot. What's your go to for online shopping?

 

[Fernthereefer]

I went with a used CPR overflow box. Best decision ever. I find the priming to be more robust (with pump) than other commercial models. My tank is tempered glass (yes check my weird choice of tank in the build threat you'll understand).

However, if I had a choice, I would have drilled. Doing so will make the system not dependent on pumps/electricity, thus more reliable.