Supplemental LED bars for ATI Sunpower - images / videos.

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A. grandis

A. grandis

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Does nyone know what would be those Kessils on post 13?
 
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rc1626

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I'm attaching a few pics as well as a short video. Hope it helps someone. Initially mounted Kessils to Sunpower housing with the sticky square and a large zip tie. Over a few weeks the double sided tape would let go from the Sunpower from the heat I believe. Plus the mounting angle was too horizontal in nature. New mounts put lights more vertical pointing more light down into the tank. Any other questions feel free to ask. T5 Combo from front to back are ATI:
B+
C+
Actinic - Sunrise/Sunset only
B+
AB Special
Actinic - Sunrise/Sunset
C+
B+
IMG_295470703_040329.jpg IMG_295461109_103102.jpg IMG_295480720_054024.jpg
 

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A. grandis

A. grandis

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They look like A350's or A360we's.
Also sorry for horrible pics above. Using Camera X app on galaxy S10 and tried to get color as close to natural as possible.
They are great! I like the shimmer! I would have whiter shimmers on my own tank if I had those. Your Kessils (A160WE Tuna) are cheaper than the A350 or the A360WEs.
What about those A80 nano? Anyone?
I can't believe there are no bars around...
Very nice video, rc1626! Thanks very much!
If you want you could please make a video with the whites?
I love this hobby!
 

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Bpb... Where is your video, man (post 10)? LOL!
Forgot to yesterday. I’ll try to get some footage tonight when the MH turn off. I don’t like cutting those on and off manually if I can avoid it. Like to let them just run their schedule. I could be wrong but I feel like turning on and off is hard on the bulbs
 

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I've been running a SPS tank for about 2 years solely on the Orphek OR bars..... very pleased, great growth and color!
 
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A. grandis

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Forgot to yesterday. I’ll try to get some footage tonight when the MH turn off. I don’t like cutting those on and off manually if I can avoid it. Like to let them just run their schedule. I could be wrong but I feel like turning on and off is hard on the bulbs
Not hard on the bulbs if only one time here and there, but I don't like to do that too. There is no need, so we wait. Thanks very much.
 
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A. grandis

A. grandis

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I've been running a SPS tank for about 2 years solely on the Orphek OR bars..... very pleased, great growth and color!
What bars do you have?
Can you show us a video of each different bar ON, please?
And with them all ON? That will be great!
Good shimmers?
Thanks.
 
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Bpb

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Ok here’s a cell phone video. You can see the beam shimmering in the water column but the shimmer on surfaces is very flat and gentle. Hard to even notice sometimes. But as many know, dim blue light just isn’t perceived as bright by the naked eye so shimmer doesn’t flicker quite like white light does. It’s a Vimeo upload so resolution should be decent. Edit: Sorry upon second viewing the resolution is terrible. I tried. I’m a tech grandpa though so not sure how to fix that


Here’s a couple pictures of the actual light setup inside the canopy. They pretty much function as t5 supplements would. They do fill in some shadows due to angles of incidence from the source. While it may night be real apparent when the halides are on, there are shaded pieces under overhangs and even insides/undersides of sps that light up like Christmas when just the blues are on, though they appear shaded when the mh are on. Just let’s me know light IS reaching them directly, just lower intensity and that is fine. PUR is very high in the shaded zones as it is only blue and violet reaching them pretty much. I show a closeup of the word CREE here printed at the end of one of what appear to be PCB style construction. The optics are glued down and impossible to remove otherwise I would. They come with a plastic cover which the violets will burn black within about a year. I will likely just cut holes where that happens
B5A10984-1A37-4D10-97A9-A2ADF8B596E2.jpeg
2374848C-EC2A-4AA2-BE57-5E3A230FE376.jpeg
20B83380-4321-4466-9A88-275AF72008D1.jpeg
C3D22A0A-6A0E-4E6F-8D41-4C876BC93602.jpeg


Lastly. A white balance correct image comparison of the 20,000k Hamilton’s alone, and then with led supplements.

MH alone
83766B9B-3378-4B39-96FB-D6F3E1CEE2DE.jpeg


MH/LED
DFFF3C11-5878-4340-A2FB-66334591152D.jpeg


I know the spirit of the post was for ATI fixtures but since I’m running led strips I figured it would be somewhat helpful. They do make a very noticeable visual impact when they are running. They cast a more violet hue to counter the greenish tint MH bulbs tend to have. I don’t notice the green until the leds aren’t running then it is super obvious. That’s Mercury for you.

@A. grandis, I only knew about your Giesemann spectra. You have a second tank?
 

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I have been thinking about buying an Orphek blue bar for like three months but just haven't done it. Not sure why really. Would like some blue pop at night for the ol' Sunpower.
 

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I’m looking at pulling the triger on returning my Gen 5’s. I just created a post on it for going to T5’s. With my budget of 2k for a new fixture, bulbs, should I just buy 2 light bars right away? I don't know if an Orphek UV and a blue is overkill.
 
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A. grandis

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Ok here’s a cell phone video. You can see the beam shimmering in the water column but the shimmer on surfaces is very flat and gentle. Hard to even notice sometimes. But as many know, dim blue light just isn’t perceived as bright by the naked eye so shimmer doesn’t flicker quite like white light does. It’s a Vimeo upload so resolution should be decent. Edit: Sorry upon second viewing the resolution is terrible. I tried. I’m a tech grandpa though so not sure how to fix that


Here’s a couple pictures of the actual light setup inside the canopy. They pretty much function as t5 supplements would. They do fill in some shadows due to angles of incidence from the source. While it may night be real apparent when the halides are on, there are shaded pieces under overhangs and even insides/undersides of sps that light up like Christmas when just the blues are on, though they appear shaded when the mh are on. Just let’s me know light IS reaching them directly, just lower intensity and that is fine. PUR is very high in the shaded zones as it is only blue and violet reaching them pretty much. I show a closeup of the word CREE here printed at the end of one of what appear to be PCB style construction. The optics are glued down and impossible to remove otherwise I would. They come with a plastic cover which the violets will burn black within about a year. I will likely just cut holes where that happens
B5A10984-1A37-4D10-97A9-A2ADF8B596E2.jpeg
2374848C-EC2A-4AA2-BE57-5E3A230FE376.jpeg
20B83380-4321-4466-9A88-275AF72008D1.jpeg
C3D22A0A-6A0E-4E6F-8D41-4C876BC93602.jpeg


Lastly. A white balance correct image comparison of the 20,000k Hamilton’s alone, and then with led supplements.

MH alone
83766B9B-3378-4B39-96FB-D6F3E1CEE2DE.jpeg


MH/LED
DFFF3C11-5878-4340-A2FB-66334591152D.jpeg


I know the spirit of the post was for ATI fixtures but since I’m running led strips I figured it would be somewhat helpful. They do make a very noticeable visual impact when they are running. They cast a more violet hue to counter the greenish tint MH bulbs tend to have. I don’t notice the green until the leds aren’t running then it is super obvious. That’s Mercury for you.

@A. grandis, I only knew about your Giesemann spectra. You have a second tank?
Thank you so much for the post!
My old 75gal. zoa system had ATI since the beginning (2008).
I made a new 75gal. system with the Spectra when I bought it, but then the plans for the house have changed and I had to sell that new system.
So I moved the spectra to the old system to see what could happen, and placed the ATI in storage until now. The transformation was stunning!
Now the zoas have amazing colors, but it is very hard to keep them on check and they are growing madly no matter what I do. LOL! With the ATI I could control growth much better than this.
Right now I'm still running the Giesemann Spectra cause I just love the halides and the color they produce, nothing comes close IME, but the way the system was originally made runs much better and easier with ATI to control the growth and to lit it more uniformly too. There are too many verticals in that tank.
It would be great to use the halides on the system I made a while ago when I tested LEDs in the past with horizontal rock work.

Anyway... it's going to be hard to keep trimming the zoas so often and at the same time to loose those natural pigments they have now... But I was thinking that could happen in the future. And I'll miss the nice shimmer too...
We'll see...
It's hard to find videos with the different bars available.
I hope the LED lovers will appreciate this thread.
I like the way Kessils emits shimmer.

I appreciate your detailed post! Tank is doing great! Nice Acros! Thanks again!
 
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A. grandis

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I have been thinking about buying an Orphek blue bar for like three months but just haven't done it. Not sure why really. Would like some blue pop at night for the ol' Sunpower.
I’m looking at pulling the triger on returning my Gen 5’s. I just created a post on it for going to T5’s. With my budget of 2k for a new fixture, bulbs, should I just buy 2 light bars right away? I don't know if an Orphek UV and a blue is overkill.
Well... let's wait and see more videos and hopefully that will help you guys to decide. I feel great to know I'm helping some of you. Hopefully this thread could serve as a great future reference.
 
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pjr

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Here's some pics.... nothing fancy, older Nikon 5100, Sigma Lens, in auto mode. Photos are untouched....

First pic is tank (72x18x24) lit with 6 foot of Orphek OR actinic and 6 foot of Orphek OR Daylight.

DSC_0758.JPG



Closer view, same light, but for some reason it looks bluer than the first and bluer than reality!
DSC_0761.JPG



Final pic is same combo, plus a BML (Build My LED) 6 foot strip, full array of LEDs but comes out to about a 12k color. It actually is lower in PAR than the Orpheks, but it gets 8 hours of peak daylight use.

DSC_0745c.jpg
 

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