Switching from Radion G5 Blue to T5

Reefcowboy

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6 bulb with two XHO reefbrites will be plenty. Sunpowers are par monsters and the reefbrites add par as well.
I would do three blue plus, two coral plus and a purple plus. The RBs will add a nice royal blue and pop nicely. Set it and watch corals grow.
Be careful acclimate the corals to the new lights or they will burn
 
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6 bulb with two XHO reefbrites will be plenty. Sunpowers are par monsters and the reefbrites add par as well.
I would do three blue plus, two coral plus and a purple plus. The RBs will add a nice royal blue and pop nicely. Set it and watch corals grow.
Be careful acclimate the corals to the new lights or they will burn

how do you recommend I acclimate? Only use 4 of the 6 bulbs and keep reef brites off?
 

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Acclimation is not as big of a deal with T5 or MH... this was mostly an issue when LEDs came around... it is not nothing, but you don't have to worry as much. Just put the fixture on... run the T5s for 5 hours and add 15 minutes every few days. You can use the RB XHOs to view for extended hours. You can also raise the fixture up if you are worried... and lower it back down slowly. You will find that the corals do not really mind as long as you don't blast them with 12 hours of light on the first day with the fixture right off of the surface with frags 4 inches under the water.

I put in new bulbs or move frags in my tanks all the time with no regard to acclimation. The new bulbs are a 20-30% instant PAR jump and nothing minds at all. The only real worry was WAY back in the day when people switched to lower K MH bulbs since they can be 3-5x more power and this was a problem for a few people, but not everybody.
 

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If you haven't ordered yet I would get an extra blue+ and a coral+ and experiment with them to get the look you want. Any combination will grow and color coral no problem.
 
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Acclimation is not as big of a deal with T5 or MH... this was mostly an issue when LEDs came around... it is not nothing, but you don't have to worry as much. Just put the fixture on... run the T5s for 5 hours and add 15 minutes every few days. You can use the RB XHOs to view for extended hours. You can also raise the fixture up if you are worried... and lower it back down slowly. You will find that the corals do not really mind as long as you don't blast them with 12 hours of light on the first day with the fixture right off of the surface with frags 4 inches under the water.

I put in new bulbs or move frags in my tanks all the time with no regard to acclimation. The new bulbs are a 20-30% instant PAR jump and nothing minds at all. The only real worry was WAY back in the day when people switched to lower K MH bulbs since they can be 3-5x more power and this was a problem for a few people, but not everybody.
Thank you!
 
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If you haven't ordered yet I would get an extra blue+ and a coral+ and experiment with them to get the look you want. Any combination will grow and color coral no problem.

right now I’m trying to figure out how I’m going to mount this in my canopy. I may have to fab up some aluminum mounts, as soon as I can figure that out I’ll get the order placed today. Thanks for the input!
 

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right now I’m trying to figure out how I’m going to mount this in my canopy. I may have to fab up some aluminum mounts, as soon as I can figure that out I’ll get the order placed today. Thanks for the input!

Just keep in mind you will need an inch or so above the unit for the fan to suck in air, and at least 3-4" on one side where the hot air exhausts out the unit.
 

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how do you recommend I acclimate? Only use 4 of the 6 bulbs and keep reef brites off?
I personally have burned corals, especially lps when I switched from orpheks V3+ to a 6 bulb sunpower.
Fresh bulbs added to those reflectors can and will toast corals.
I recommend running less bulbs for the first two weeks, preferably blue+ only, add a caral plus then a second spaced out by a few weeks.
Yes I agree with grandis leds came out toasting everything with 1000+ par laser beam fixtures 10 or so years ago, but a full spectrum t5 bulb mounted 8 inches off the water with ATI reflectors can do damage
 

Skynyrd Fish

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I’m running a six bulb with six blue+. On a 60”x18”wx24”tall. I’m growing Acro and clams just fine. The cooling for an ati is important for the fixture and bulbs to provide that extra par bump. Make sure the air intake and exit on the fixture is unobstructed. Always run it with the shield on. Also place the bulbs with the label away from the end of the fixture where the exhaust is. I’m not sure why, but someone will chime in that knows. Enjoy the new light setup. Sorry you had issues with the G5’s.
 

A. grandis

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I personally have burned corals, especially lps when I switched from orpheks V3+ to a 6 bulb sunpower.
Fresh bulbs added to those reflectors can and will toast corals.
I recommend running less bulbs for the first two weeks, preferably blue+ only, add a caral plus then a second spaced out by a few weeks.
Yes I agree with grandis leds came out toasting everything with 1000+ par laser beam fixtures 10 or so years ago, but a full spectrum t5 bulb mounted 8 inches off the water with ATI reflectors can do damage
Common sense here... every system needs to be adapted to any new lights in use. There is no exception for that as a prevention to shock. All new corals to be added to any system will also need adaptation. Also when changing bulbs after a year or so... adaptation is important to prevent any issues.
 

A. grandis

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I’m running a six bulb with six blue+. On a 60”x18”wx24”tall. I’m growing Acro and clams just fine. The cooling for an ati is important for the fixture and bulbs to provide that extra par bump. Make sure the air intake and exit on the fixture is unobstructed. Always run it with the shield on. Also place the bulbs with the label away from the end of the fixture where the exhaust is. I’m not sure why, but someone will chime in that knows. Enjoy the new light setup. Sorry you had issues with the G5’s.
Yes, T5 bulbs will perform much better and with greater efficiency, accordingly to ATI, if placed in the ATI fixture with the labels (the written part on the bulb) facing the opposite side of the opening (where the acrylic shield comes out). That is to assure the bulbs will receive proper cooling on the right spot from the fans.
 
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Reefcowboy

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I believe recommended spread x tank width os a bulb for every 3 inches of tank. This would depend on how tall the fixture is above the water line. I think this measure is way conservative and a 6 bulb would easily cover 24".
 

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Hi,

I’m currently running 4 XR15 Gen 5’s Blue a 48” 120G with canopy. With all of the mobius issues and now cracked lights i’m looking for any feedback on switching. Mixed reef with LPS and just started adding SPS and a couple acros, all are doing great.

Budget is 2k
How many bulb fixture would I need to support sps?
Recommendation on bulbs? I do like the color of ab+, maybe more on the blue side
Should I add 2 Orphek or Reef Brites right away? I enjoy the dusk/dawn effect. Looking at the Orphek UV and Blue
I have an Apogee 510 to test par, currently sitting at 110 on the sand. Should i expect more par from this setup?

Been years since I used T5’s, I appreciate any help
2456112C-6A84-4B67-AC07-A8B99B00A07E.jpeg


I recommend going with 2 ReeFi Duo Extremes mounted in parallel to your tank length. If you want to future proof for mature SPS colonies, then go with 3 ReeFi Duo Extremes mounted in perpendicular to your tank length. ReeFi Duo Extreme will give you T5 look with soft light cast using ReeFi's exclusive ReeFlectors. Each LED diode has it's own reflector instead of optical lens. Unlike optical lenses, ReeFlectors will provide even color blend (no disco effects, no diffuser needed), T5 like soft light cast instead of sharp contrast between light and dark, and no blinding slide glares.

3 ReeFi Duo Extremes will be under your $2000 budget shipped with ReeFiLove promo.

Here's a picture of 3 ReeFi Duo Extremes on Red Sea 650 on display at LFS (Cuttlefish and Corals):
reefi_cuttlefish.jpg
 
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I recommend going with 2 ReeFi Duo Extremes mounted in parallel to your tank length. If you want to future proof for mature SPS colonies, then go with 3 ReeFi Duo Extremes mounted in perpendicular to your tank length. ReeFi Duo Extreme will give you T5 look with soft light cast using ReeFi's exclusive ReeFlectors. Each LED diode has it's own reflector instead of optical lens. Unlike optical lenses, ReeFlectors will provide even color blend (no disco effects, no diffuser needed), T5 like soft light cast instead of sharp contrast between light and dark, and no blinding slide glares.

3 ReeFi Duo Extremes will be under your $2000 budget shipped with ReeFiLove promo.

Here's a picture of 3 ReeFi Duo Extremes on Red Sea 650 on display at LFS (Cuttlefish and Corals):
reefi_cuttlefish.jpg

wow that’s beautiful! I’ll check it out!
 
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Hydrored

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Update: Ecotech responded and is sending me the parts to fix all 4 lights. Decided I’m still going to replace them, I’m still stuck that I will have to either get a different hood or accept the fact the lights will be in my way unless I go with a complete different light company.
 

RCS82

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Update: Ecotech responded and is sending me the parts to fix all 4 lights. Decided I’m still going to replace them, I’m still stuck that I will have to either get a different hood or accept the fact the lights will be in my way unless I go with a complete different light company.
I like Hamilton for a different light company. Just throwing it out there lol.
 

RedSea500MaxS

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I am switching now. Chose a dimmable DX-18 four bulb 48” with ATI Blue Plus bulbs run by my Apex and VDM. Plus I am using a Reef Brite LED XHO Actinic Strip into VDM....while I phase out my Hydra 26 LEDs.

FYI....WWC, BRS and Budmans Corals to game a few use T-5 and RB actinic strips. Not bad company!

Good luck. Let’s us know your progress. Thx!
 

Reefcowboy

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Just get a powermodule....

15864284538525383331777148033050.jpg
I run halides now, but before ran a sunpower. Before I got it, was pulling the trigger on a powermodule. ATI T5+LEDs seem like the answer to the holy grail of lighting.
That was until I saw one on and noticed how much heat that thing puts out. The issues with the early version LEDs also kept me away. I'm sure they corrected them, they used to burn and toast the whole led enclosure.

My spectra MH is also hot, but not even close to the PM. Nonetheless, the light the PM puts out is simply beautiful
 

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