Can you clarify this part?
Symbiodinium. Got any treatment ideas?
- Thread starter ScottB
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Follow up on the bacteria experiment.
Neither the MB7 nor the Pro Bio samples exhibited anything different from the control sample over a period of 4-5 days. Beyond that period I failed to keep the salinity stable enough for a valid test.
Neither the MB7 nor the Pro Bio samples exhibited anything different from the control sample over a period of 4-5 days. Beyond that period I failed to keep the salinity stable enough for a valid test.
bishoptf
Valuable Member
Tagging along think I am dealing with the same thing...I did come across this on reefcentral - symbiodinium looks like he did a three blackout and dosed phyto and pods while blackout. I am wondering about dosing silicates to see if they will out compete the dino's, I never tried that in the past but I think that is next on the list. I have a tester and have some water glass just need to figure out how much to dose.
@ScottB what do you think about dosing silicates, I have much less to lose, I only have a 2 leathers and a hammer. I so want to turn the corner, lol.
@ScottB what do you think about dosing silicates, I have much less to lose, I only have a 2 leathers and a hammer. I so want to turn the corner, lol.
I am well aware of dosing silicates to increase diatom populations in order to outcompete LC Amphidinium. I cannot say I know much about symbiodinium competitors yet to give you a high conviction answer. Very low risk of anything bad happening from it though.Tagging along think I am dealing with the same thing...I did come across this on reefcentral - symbiodinium looks like he did a three blackout and dosed phyto and pods while blackout. I am wondering about dosing silicates to see if they will out compete the dino's, I never tried that in the past but I think that is next on the list. I have a tester and have some water glass just need to figure out how much to dose.
@ScottB what do you think about dosing silicates, I have much less to lose, I only have a 2 leathers and a hammer. I so want to turn the corner, lol.
There is another thread out there where a few people have had success by treating the tank with fluconazole. I am not personally a fan of treating the whole system with an anti-fungal unless it is overrun by bryopsis. You don't really have any choice. With these guys, I think we have choices.
Here is the thread I mentioned above. The first several pages really discuss stuff that didn't work much, generally flailing about.
www.reef2reef.com
Chrysophytes?! Help me cure it?
They don't grow any longer than that. They stay mostly white. But I get no long stringing or bubbles.That does sound a very good match, though sometimes prorocentrum dinos can appear more yellowish than brown. And I saw one freakish case of stringy diatoms with similar appearance.
www.reef2reef.com
bishoptf
Valuable Member
I will dose some silicates and see if it makes any difference, running UV from before and started dosing some MB7 which doesnt appear to make any difference but shouldn't hurt.
Well, my ICP is in and looking fine. High calcium (equal parts of ESV does this) and high Lithium which is another nothingburger.
www.triton-lab.de
Nitrates are 5-10
Triton Lab Showroom - Explore this water test results and click on the image above.
Someone wants to show you the water test results and shared this link to the evaluation. Click on the image above to explore the water test results.
www.triton-lab.de
Nitrates are 5-10
Reef and Dive
Valuable Member
Crysophytes also have a sillica wall. Dosing might actually worsen the problem.
Symbiodinium are the dinoflagellates that make symbiosis with out corals => the so called zooxantellae. The can be expelled and acquire flagella when there’s too much light but do not often survive enough to become what we call “dinoflagellate tank problem”.
If your problem is dinos it is very unlikelly it is caused by Symbiodinium...
Last but not least, if you do not have Ostreopsis, I suggest checking Cruz Arias (Elegant Corals) method.
bishoptf
Valuable Member
I've had small cell amphids, these are different like @ScottB has mentioned, they look like Dino's but they do not move at all under the scope, I have some pics in the other thread. Mine appear to be getting worse and would like to figure something out before it gets really bad. following along to see what may work, dosing silicate may not help but at least we will know, I do not have a lot of corals in the tank so easier for me to try stuff vs some others.
These are quite unlike our commonly found captive system dinos.
These are also a little different from the less gelatinous, more cellulose structured crysophytes. In the tank, they look somewhat like ostreopsis, but under the scope they are super tiny (1/10th) and are not motile.
They've got me flummoxed for sure right now. Seem to appear just after a bit of cyano popped up when my NO3 versus PO4 ratios got a little noisy.
In my case at least, all my sticks are charging ahead so not going to do anything too drastic to treat these uglies. And they are ugly.
Hmmmm. Can't hurt to test in a beaker, right?
Will try 1ml per liter, with light & heat.
bishoptf
Valuable Member
Bingo, I know h2o2 is not very effective on the other flavors but was thinking maybe just maybe it might be on this type...just thinking about all the other things that have been tried, thought that one would be easy to test out.
sfin52
So many pedestrians so little time
Just a thought. It helped with dino. I used a 5 micron sock sucked all I could filtered through the sock and back into the tank the water went. This could be very useful here.
Reef and Dive
Valuable Member
These could be Crysophytes / Golden algae IMHO
Silica starvation (the same as diatoms) is the solution if this diagnosis is correct.
Thanks for the idea as it might be a more effective method of removal. Dinos are HUGE (40-50 micron IIRC) compared to these guys, but the gelatin substance should hold them together long enough to remove.
OK the H2O2 test is ON. However I have reduced the dosage amount significantly to a "common" daily treatment level I've seen around here of 1ml per 10 gallons.
So rough math is .04ml/liter which -- in case you are wondering -- is 1 drop of 3% H2O2.
The before picture:
So rough math is .04ml/liter which -- in case you are wondering -- is 1 drop of 3% H2O2.
The before picture:
You could well be correct. What I have seen around here labeled as crysophytes looks a bit different than the stringy goop I see in my tanks. Under the scope, they are more similar. The taxonomy on these are all over the place -- and there are thousands of different species.
My silica level is in range (0 - 200) according to my Triton results of 122. I could strip it with some GFO perhaps as I have a little PO4 to spare.
So, @Tom Bishop is about to dose silicates. If that makes these accelerate, I might take a swing at reducing silicates.
How else does one strip silicates? My RODI is 0 TDS.
Reef and Dive
Valuable Member
That does not mean you do not have. If your DI resin is not new, try changing, maybe adding a second unit or a bigger one.
Silica can also enter the tank with our hands, new rocks, new substrate, new equipment, water used to clean stuff, air dust...
GFO helps removing some if your phos is not crazy high.
bishoptf
Valuable Member
I've dosed some silicates, I have yet to take a reading but will do that today. Mine appear not to be returning as quickly as you are seeing. Mine are only on the back glass and one spot in my sump and are not a daily occurrence. I've cleaned the glass yesterday and will be watching for a return, I do have high silica levels, i even added a Silica buster cartridge to my RODI setup but I get diatoms on my glass after a few days. I've confirmed that its diatoms under the scope, since I have a bare bottom I can only assume its coming from my dry rock, nothing else in the tank.
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