Tang and blenny actin strange or normal?

[RichtheReefer21]

Ok.. So... I saw that mandarins do not do well on Mel's stickie chart thread with the Chelated Copper Powder, but every other fish I have will be fine.....

Would the Mandarin need to be QT'd on its own with different treatment plan?

a bowl of Live Sand should be fine to keep to twinspot goby happy in QT?

My time Line up to this point:

-APPX 4 days of strange behavior and confirmed disease in just the Tang.
-Suspected Blenny showing symptoms as well
-All the other Fish seem ok for now

If I get this QT up and running tonight... How long should I run it before I add my fish? If I Soak the Sponges and Media I am cramming into the HOTB Filter with Bacteria Boosters would it be ok to Start quarantine asap?

Or should I let it run for a bit? Or Just get the dang QT started and Ill keep RODI Mixed Saltwater ready to change daily?

I don't wanna rush the fish into the tank if they are gonna die from an immediate spike anyways... or overnight while I sleep...

But I know I may be running out of time to save them...

:help: ;Writing

 

[cmcoker]

Sooner is better, ammonia is a risk but so is leaving them where they are. Get setup and start retrieving fish. Start making more water.

An Ammonia badge is your friend, if/when it starts changing color then do water changes. I'll also mention here, do NOT use prime or any other ammonia reducers, they turn copper toxic.

Suck up any uneaten food or fish waste to help keep up water quality.

You may need 2 containers, some bow quite a bit when full of water. Stacking 2 of them gives is more rigidity.

 

[HotRocks]

Ok.. So... I saw that mandarins do not do well on Mel's stickie chart thread with the Chelated Copper Powder, but every other fish I have will be fine.....

Would the Mandarin need to be QT'd on its own with different treatment plan?

a bowl of Live Sand should be fine to keep to twinspot goby happy in QT?

My time Line up to this point:

-APPX 4 days of strange behavior and confirmed disease in just the Tang.
-Suspected Blenny showing symptoms as well
-All the other Fish seem ok for now

If I get this QT up and running tonight... How long should I run it before I add my fish? If I Soak the Sponges and Media I am cramming into the HOTB Filter with Bacteria Boosters would it be ok to Start quarantine asap?

Or should I let it run for a bit? Or Just get the dang QT started and Ill keep RODI Mixed Saltwater ready to change daily?

I don't wanna rush the fish into the tank if they are gonna die from an immediate spike anyways... or overnight while I sleep...

But I know I may be running out of time to save them...

:help: ;Writing

In addition to what @cmcoker said, you could also add some bacteria in a bottle, like Dr Tims or Biospiria to help "seed" your biofilter. I haven't encountered any ammonia issues using Dr Tims in QT.

 

[cmcoker]

Oh.. yeah, the mandarin is an issue, maybe, keep him in the 10g? I think you need CP to treat him. Have a friendly veterinarian?

 

[RichtheReefer21]

Ugh... I dont have another filter to run the 10g for him. Siiiigh

 

[RichtheReefer21]

Gonna manage it for now while the QT cycles... and then transfer and fallow. Got med dosing and gonna continue FW DIPS every day for a bit to see how he reacts to dosing and wait for cycle to finish on QT. Buying time basically

 

[RichtheReefer21]

So day 4... did 1 dip a day for first 2 days...

Gave it a rest on day 3.

Heres day 4...

Any thoughts or comments from what u can see?

 

[RichtheReefer21]

I raised water temp to 81°F and have been 1/2 dosing twice a day with this:

I am getting the QT started tomorrow.

 

[cmcoker]

Drop the temp back down, raising it doesn't help like in freahwater.

Raising the temp increases life cycle of parasite, and reduces available oxygen in the water. Neither of which are good, especially with a parasite that attacks the gills, their breathing ability is already compromised.

 

[cmcoker]

Since they're still alive, it could possibly be ich, the spots look a little larger and less numerous in the dip. @4FordFamily is the guy for looking at tangs, I have never kept them so he may spot something that's not obvious to me.

 

[4FordFamily]

Since they're still alive, it could possibly be ich, the spots look a little larger and less numerous in the dip. @4FordFamily is the guy for looking at tangs, I have never kept them so he may spot something that's not obvious to me.

It’s so hard to tell, it has stress spots and damage from some sort of parasite it appears.

If you’re dealing with ich you should leave the temp alone and remove all fish, treat in a quarantine (copper power or CP) and leave the DT fishless for 76 days.

I think ich is a good bet here.

 

[RichtheReefer21]

Ugh... any chance I've caught it early enough with the dips to get all the rock and corals out tomorrow to the 125 I'm setting up tomorrow without too much risk of spreading it to the new tank?

 

[cmcoker]

Ugh... any chance I've caught it early enough with the dips to get all the rock and corals out tomorrow to the 125 I'm setting up tomorrow without too much risk of spreading it to the new tank?

If you have a new tank going up tomorrow, I would remove the rocks and sand from old tank, put them in the new tank but it will still need to be fallow for 76 days. The parasite has likely encrusted on your substrate or coral somewhere and you can't see it or dip to get rid of it.

Your current tank, once empty of rocks, sand, inverts can be used to quarantine the fish until the fallow period has passed. I'd do a full copper treatment, when that's done I'd go ahead and do a prazipro treatment for flukes. You should then have a clean slate for the fish to go into the new tank, after the fallow period.

Corals, rocks, snails, etc (anything wet) can potentially bring in parasites to your fish, using a quarantine protocol for fish and inverts, will allow you to address those issues before all the fish are exposed.

 

[RichtheReefer21]

If you have a new tank going up tomorrow, I would remove the rocks and sand from old tank, put them in the new tank but it will still need to be fallow for 76 days. The parasite has likely encrusted on your substrate or coral somewhere and you can't see it or dip to get rid of it.

Your current tank, once empty of rocks, sand, inverts can be used to quarantine the fish until the fallow period has passed. I'd do a full copper treatment, when that's done I'd go ahead and do a prazipro treatment for flukes. You should then have a clean slate for the fish to go into the new tank, after the fallow period.

Corals, rocks, snails, etc (anything wet) can potentially bring in parasites to your fish, using a quarantine protocol for fish and inverts, will allow you to address those issues before all the fish are exposed.

This is exactly what I planned to do... that's crazy that u just confirmed my plan. Thanks alot.

 

[RichtheReefer21]

Alright, I have spent the last 3 days reading through as much material I could from @Humblefish 's write-ups. And omg thank you so much, I would be clueless without all your information. Truly a fishlife saver as well as a stress saver for me. I Appreciate all ur time and efforts to put all that information together for the public. Cheers.

So heres my update, I did not remove the sand, I simply bought all new sand and the 125 has all my rock, corals, and inverts in it and is cycled and running fine. Corals are happy. I even added 2 coral banded shrimp to keep it lively. Fallow timer started.

So the old tank, the 55 (just has fish, sand, and a tonga branch I am throwing out after I'm done) ... It has been at .4 - .5 on the tests for 4 days. (Using Liquid Cupramine)
I was worried about velvet so ramped to .4 in 2 days, dosing 1/3 doses 3 times a day.

Already lost my Starry Blenny, and my 2 spotted Goby . I feel like it was the rush of copper treatment due to my fear of Velvet's speed.
The gromma didn't make It through the move.

My LFS took the psych dragonette in trade when I went to get QT supplies.

Ive still got my tang(who looks better every day) 2 clowns, damsel, and the 6 line wrasse doing what I feel like is well in the QT/Cupramine tank.

Doing 20% WC's every 4 days and using Seachem Stability in the HOTB.

July 4th was my fallow date start (when everything got moved into the new tank)
July 4th is also my copper treatment start..

Plan is 1 month copper QT, than Cuprasorb and 15% water changes once a week until copper levels are zero in the water. That should give me about the same time frame as when the fallow period is done (76 days)

I FW dip the tang (only one who appears to have physical damage/spots from ich/velvet) every other day.

Still debating going to pick up some chem bath/ antiobiotics to do as well... not sure on the frequency either, or is it included in the FW dip?

Does it sound like I am doing this right so far? Opinions, Recommendations, Criticisms... please, I'll take anything I can get.

I know I lost 3 fish already, but I've saved 5. Doing the best I can considering I only started doing SW 4 month ago. ::exhausted and stressed and deflated::

 

[cmcoker]

Good job on saving the fish you have. I'd lay off the freshwater dips since you have copper on board. I can't recall cupramines therapeutic dose, is it 0.5? With the sand and rock you may see absorption so keep up the monitoring. The hannah copper checker has shown to be easy to use and I really like mine. Much easier to tell where the level is without having to compare to color charts.

 

[RichtheReefer21]

Good job on saving the fish you have. I'd lay off the freshwater dips since you have copper on board. I can't recall cupramines therapeutic dose, is it 0.5? With the sand and rock you may see absorption so keep up the monitoring. The hannah copper checker has shown to be easy to use and I really like mine. Much easier to tell where the level is without having to compare to color charts.

No... thanks to you, and the others that responded quickly.

Color charts are my new Hate in Life. I don't see how its accurate at all.

 

[cmcoker]

No... thanks to you, and the others that responded quickly.

Color charts are my new Hate in Life. I don't see how its accurate at all.

No worries, thats what everyone is here for.

Yeah, can't stand color charts. The hannah checker would be well worth the $50 plus a box of reagents. BRS and most other salty webstores have them now. Theres a couple threads on them. Let me find a link

Here ya go:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/c...ents-high-range-copper-checker-hi702.389436/

 

[RichtheReefer21]

Well... day 8 and all 5 fish are looking good. White spots are all gone on the tang and everyone seems good.

68days to go before they finally get to enjoy their new home in the 125.

Big thank you to everyone who pitched in advice and help in such short notice.

Love this forum. R2r4life

 

[RichtheReefer21]

Update:

All fish doing well. Spots are all gone. Behavior is back to normal. (The tang hides under the single tonga I left in there for comfort every time I come near the tank... So his aggression has been pacified by the FW dips etc...

Q1: When is it safe to start removing copper with Cuprasorb?

Q2: If I wanted to maintain the copper levels at .25 (therapeutic) Could I pick up a few more fish and Add them to this already-QT'd copper-treated setup?

I still have 7 weeks left before 125g is officially "fallow"

I am thinking it will be fine to get them acclimated with the other fish now while I am Maintaining these levels of copper... Am I wrong?