Tank already improving!

TCoach

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Hey everyone.

Thanks to @Ditto, @Billldg, and @[email protected] and their posts, videos, and guidance. I’ve had my GHL running for a little over 24 hrs. One benefit I’m seeing is much better temp control. I took my heater and direct connected it to the power bar and controlled via the temp probe. As you can see, the tank has a way more stable temp!

So loving this. Can’t wait till I can get more stuff under its control.

Thanks everyone for your help, even if it was just from videos you’ve posted.

72FA7D89-9F06-486F-A017-676008AC3DCD.jpeg
 

jimk60

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One thing to consider is that the constant on/off of your heater that you have now will probably shorten it's lifespan. So be ready for that.
Hey everyone.

Thanks to @Ditto, @Billldg, and @[email protected] and their posts, videos, and guidance. I’ve had my GHL running for a little over 24 hrs. One benefit I’m seeing is much better temp control. I took my heater and direct connected it to the power bar and controlled via the temp probe. As you can see, the tank has a way more stable temp!

So loving this. Can’t wait till I can get more stuff under its control.

Thanks everyone for your help, even if it was just from videos you’ve posted.

72FA7D89-9F06-486F-A017-676008AC3DCD.jpeg
 
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TCoach

TCoach

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One thing to consider is that the constant on/off of your heater that you have now will probably shorten it's lifespan. So be ready for that.
Why do you say that. The constant on/off is at the powerbar. The internal heater thermostat does not trigger and should always be on, so the heater internals are not getting "used up". It's the internal thermostat that tends to fry heaters.

Anyway, heaters are on the list of stuff that needs to be replaced every 1-2 years. :)
 

Lasse

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If you use a "dumb" titan heater - it does not matter. Now when you have a good temperature control - get a "dumb" titan heater - it is more safe. The one with internal thermostats should not be used in SW - IMO. My is 4 years old now - nothing in it that can go wrong.

Sincerely Lasse
 

Macca_75

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Looking good, but the powerbar does have a limited number of "cycles" on the relay.

If you want you can further refine that accuracy - instead of using "two position" to control the temp probe you can set it to use a pulse. But that will cause the powerbar to turn on/off even more.

But whatever you have set certainly seems to be a lot more stable than what you had.
 
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TCoach

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Looking good, but the powerbar does have a limited number of "cycles" on the relay.

If you want you can further refine that accuracy - instead of using "two position" to control the temp probe you can set it to use a pulse. But that will cause the powerbar to turn on/off even more.

But whatever you have set certainly seems to be a lot more stable than what you had.
I don't understand what you mean by "use a pulse". Would you please elaborate?
 

workhz

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Just curious about the peaks and valleys previously. That looks like a 1.6 degree swing. I'm just using my inkbird currently to track temp and as a fail safe with 2 eheim heaters and temps are dead constant. Are you using 1 heater or 2? That seems like a large swing in a short period but don't know what others experiencing.
 

Lasse

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If you look here - you can see that you can chose different mode for the controller unit. With the normal "twoposition controller and hysteresis at 0.15 - the switch channel will react 0.075 from your nominal value. If you have your switch channel 1 (as an example) to function Temp 1 increase and nominal value at 26 degree C - the channel will switch on at 25.92 and off at 26.08.

1632754963389.png



If you instead use the the function "pulse variable" and max pulse 1 minute and pause 1 minute this will happen. If you are outside the hysteresis - i,e. below 25.92 - the switch will be on for 1 minute and off in 1 minute. If the temperature is between 25.92 and 26. The on time will be adjusted (automatically) to be shorter and shorter as close the real temperature is to 26 degree C (in our case) - but it will still wait 1 minute before it switch on again. The max pulse length and the fixed pause length can be adjusted to fit into your system. I have the probe in the same apartment as the heater (and you should have it in that way to avoid overheating if your return pump stops)

1632755751420.png


Here you can see my way of configuration

1632755855113.png


And this give this chart - the last month- 17/9 I lower from 24.5 to 24.9 degree C

1632756074205.png


My swing is normally 0.1 degree C (0.18 degree F)

Sincerely Lasse
 
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TCoach

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If you look here - you can see that you can chose different mode for the controller unit. With the normal "twoposition controller and hysteresis at 0.15 - the switch channel will react 0.075 from your nominal value. If you have your switch channel 1 (as an example) to function Temp 1 increase and nominal value at 26 degree C - the channel will switch on at 25.92 and off at 26.08.

1632754963389.png



If you instead use the the function "pulse variable" and max pulse 1 minute and pause 1 minute this will happen. If you are outside the hysteresis - i,e. below 25.92 - the switch will be on for 1 minute and off in 1 minute. If the temperature is between 25.92 and 26. The on time will be adjusted (automatically) to be shorter and shorter as close the real temperature is to 26 degree C (in our case) - but it will still wait 1 minute before it switch on again. The max pulse length and the fixed pause length can be adjusted to fit into your system. I have the probe in the same apartment as the heater (and you should have it in that way to avoid overheating if your return pump stops)

1632755751420.png
I don't have the "Operation mode controller" option. My Temperature 1 ends with the "Summer switching". Is there something I need to do to enable it?
 

Lasse

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In MyGHL - you find this symbol

1632766512836.png


Klick on that

activate expert mode

1632766600468.png


Or in GCC check expert mode here

1632766652780.png


In the phone app - go to app settings and activate expert mode

If you have a 5:1 - be sure that you not use the outlet that could be used for dimming (socket S5) for the heater. I does not manage a high load IME

Sincerely Lasse
 

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