Tank cracked - two questions-

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pbrown

pbrown

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Aquatic collection in Hayward usually has Red Sea tanks in stock. I think i max e 170 would be perfect for what your looking for
Yes. This looks good and the 200 xl- 53 is actually 42 gal in tank. The only redundancy is I already have a nice sump… nine months new that I bought from BRS for $250
I like the simplicity of this as I have zero plumbing skills and need to depend on non reefer hubby to help- which he does but simpler is better.
thanks for the feedback
 

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fishface NJ

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Beautiful piping and sump. What tank and sump do you have?
Thanks! Both are Aqueon 40B. I drilled the DT for a Modular Marine overflow. The sump I used a Fiji sump kit that I bought on ebay. Pipes are from BRS and fittings from Lowes.

If you don't want to drill your own tank, then buy from @glasscage. You can use their overflow , or use your overflow: send them the template and they will drill it for you.
 
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So after my research today I think I am going to go with the Red Sea reefer 200 xl. Will be the 42gal interior I desire plus comes with stand, sump (with small ato). Eventually will convert that section to refugium and will put 5 gal ato receptacle ilater. I will also get the screen for the top of the tank and use with my kessil lighting.
I have a large reef octopus skimmer that will fit in sump.
Would like feedback from folks that have views on this tank.

my son (18) and I are looking forward to getting the new tank set up. He is excited that he can finally get the black ice clown pair he has wanted. ( next spring once they tank settles on again. )

thanks for all the great tank and plumbing ideas. My family’s next step is to watch the plumbing ideas.
 
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pbrown

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Thanks! Both are Aqueon 40B. I drilled the DT for a Modular Marine overflow. The sump I used a Fiji sump kit that I bought on ebay. Pipes are from BRS and fittings from Lowes.

If you don't want to drill your own tank, then buy from @glasscage. You can use their overflow , or use your overflow: send them the template and they will drill it for you.
My local frag supplier stated he would help me drill the overflow if I desired. He's amazing. Did you build your own display stand? My husband and son built my last stand/hood last year.
This is definitely an option if they are up to it. We learned a lot on the first go.
Do you use a screen on your 40B and if so where did you resource. I would be concerned about adding a hood onto a thinner glass wall. A tweak of the frame and glass could cause a stress fracture over time. I think my niece leaned on my tank hood causing the thicker glass on my nano to crack. (just my intuition there).
If you did build the stand for the 40B would be interested in your sketches/stand plans.

I looked on glass cage but by the time I buy the tank and stand it is equivalent to the Red Sea.

You have peaked my interest as the 40B is only $100 at Petco...huge savings if we build the stand and do the plumbing. Plus, my son and husband have the summer off...so sounds like a good father/son project to me. :) They both love the tank too and my son has two fresh tanks in his room. Whole family is into fish keeping.

You have been amazingly helpful on our journey...thank you!
 
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fishface NJ

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I did build the stand myself. First time doing so. I even drilled pocket screw holes. I used @RocketEngineer plans.

Right now at Petco the 40B is on sale $49.99. I built a screen top using BRS net and window screen kit for the frame from Lowes/Home Depot. My suggestion is use a bean animal overflow if possible and that will accept 1" pipes for the water going to the sump. Bean animal overflow boxes are quite. You won't hear a sound from it



DIY Stands Template and Calculator

The reason for starting this thread is to provide a template for a relatively simple DIY stand design. This design is a compilation of several designs into one place and includes the calculations needed to generate a cut list for any custom design.

StandTemplate.jpg~original


The basic principle of the design is two box frames connected by four legs. The upper one supports the tank and transfers the load to the legs. The legs are made of several pieces of 2X4 to assist in construction and sheething the stand in plywood for strength and cosmetics. The bottom frame transmits the load of the tank into the floor.


Design notes:
*The plan for this stand consists of 21 pieces. Like color pieces are the same length and of the same board size.
*The box frames are screwed together first, then the legs are built off the bottom frame, the top frame is then placed on top and secured to the legs.
*The green pieces are screw strips. These provide limited load strength but serve to make assembly easier and help keep the stand square.
*The blue piece between the upper rails (red) works to keep the upper rails from twisting.

Ok, now to the cut list:
First off: The calculations below are based off of a stand that is "W" inches wide X "D" inches front-to-back X "H" inches high.

(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length: 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g); 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable; For longer spans and larger tanks 2X8s are recommended.

(2) Yellow - Upper Ends: Length = D-3"
Theses will be made of the same material as the upper rails.

(4) Green - Screw Strips: Length = H-2"
These 2X4s are shorter then the tank is tall.

(8) Purple - Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = H -7"
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = H-9"
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = H-10.75"
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. The ones on the short sides of the stand provide a flat surface for attaching a plywood facing and while they do provide some strength, they are optional.

(2) Orange - Bottom Rails: Length = W
These 2X4s act to spread the weight of the tank over a larger area.

(3) Blue - Bottom Ends: Length = D-3"

Covering the sides of the stand with plywood will help to stiffen the stand against twisting and shifting. Doors can be mounted to the legs as desired.

So there it is. 21 pieces in 6 lenghts equals a tank stand that should fit the bill for most people. There are other plans out there but this is a simple design using simple tools and common wood sizes. It may not suit everyone's application but it should fit the bill for most common size tanks.

Should someone wish to have me calculate beam strengths for a specific application, PM me with the tank dimensions and I will be happy to run the numbers. To strike a great deal on personal care products from CVS ad, try the Extrabucks rewards.

Happy building.


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-RocketEngineer
 
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