Tank has finally arrived and now the fun begins....Have questions

FreshSaltyGuy

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Here is my 40 gallon tall tank. I would have bought a breeder long tank but as some of you know from my first post I got a steal on this and couldn't pass it up. So attached are pics of the tank obviously still wrapped until I can determine where to move it. The instructions that came with the tank are real bad so I'm hoping you all can help answer some questions I have. BTW the glass on the tank is 0.47" thick.

Here are my questions:
1.) What is the small box above "Biological Filter Media" that has holes in the bottom of it and a little drawer to pull out? What goes in there?

2.) As you can see it came with bags of Crushed coral and Bio Ceramic media. First do I take these out of the bags they came in and dump it into where it says "biological Filter Media" or keep it in the bags? Second part to that is I wanted to put Live sand with some CUC in the Filter media area and then maybe some of the crushed coral but not all of it, can I put the rest on the right side of the sump where the pump goes along with the bio ceramics?

3.) Is there a wrong way and right way to place the white floss stuff on that section of the tank? Is it normal for it to stick above the tank like it is now?

4.) Any idea where the 2 rectangular pieces of glass with the white frame is for and why is 1 of them cut at an angle?

5.) The top of the tank has that black cover with the holes in it. Since I'm putting a hanging light on the tank I can just remove that correct and get a screen mesh to go over the top?

6.) Since my sump is so small, and I have that basket think above the filter media section, where in the heck do I place a light for the algae and any plants that I'll be keeping in there?

7.) The flow pipes go up through the bottom back right of the tank is this ok and safe to have this kind of setup?

Any other advice for this size tank/sump etc.. I'd really appreciate.

Thank you all again for all the help!

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RocketEngineer

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So I guess where I'm confused is the existing hole has basically 2 in 1 pipe going through it. There is a small 1/2" pvc Going up the middle of a 1.5" pipe. Then the open space around the 1.5" pipe is for drain back into the sump and the 1/2" pipe up the middle of it is the return. How do I change that out to be Return only?
So, to be clear, you want the existing hole to be the drain. The gravity drop from the display back to the sump. The pump then goes up over the back wall of the tank.
Returns:
F9CB10B3-98AC-40D2-99D9-EAF77D9C5265.jpeg

166568F7-7F00-4B4A-ACDC-0094E6CC3E78.jpeg
 
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FreshSaltyGuy

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So, to be clear, you want the existing hole to be the drain. The gravity drop from the display back to the sump. The pump then goes up over the back wall of the tank.
Returns:
F9CB10B3-98AC-40D2-99D9-EAF77D9C5265.jpeg

166568F7-7F00-4B4A-ACDC-0094E6CC3E78.jpeg
Ok ok I think I'm following. Here's a few questions I have from the pics you posted. The corner drain, the hole I have at the bottom is I'm guessing 2" diameter so how do I secure that so it doesn't let and then downsize to the smaller pipe? Are you running 3/4" pvc for ALL (drain & overflow) ? I saw where you said just make that your drain but I don't know of anything that will cover the hole so that I don't use the Y adapter that moves was to Sump and the other portion sends water back. Also that drain you have there what does the pipe do at the very top is it open to suck in air or just capped off?
I just drove 30 min to my favorite LFS and they truly disappointed me...the owner wasn't there who may have been able to help better, but they didn't have anything I needed and also were clueless when I explained my situation.
Is that long black box your overflow or what is that called and how did you attach it to your tank if you didn't drill holes in the glass I don't see it hanging on the back? Then from that black box it runs down to your pump in the sump right since that is the returns, do you use the clear soft hose for that part or did you run PVC all the way?
Other question on the 2 return water lines, I don't want mine exposed like that I'd like them to go into the water and then add Loclines?
I want this to be a ultra quiet tank "IF POSSIBLE" since it will be in the living room where we spend a lot of family time and watch movies, etc..
Thank you again I'm getting there...a little slow since this is all new to me lol but getting there.

OK EDITED THIS TO ADD PICTURES OF WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT - SEE ATTACHED OF THE PLUMBING I HAVE.
The picture that has the blue and grey pipe standing up, the blue larger pipe will go over the grey pipe so that the grey pipe sits in there. You can see the thing the 2 green hoses are connected to inside it does both drain and return, so how do I get rid of that piece and you can see the rubber gasket it has, what do I use to ensure the large 2" hole is sealed so that when I go through it with the new PVC drain pipe, it's done right and won't leak.

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BaliReefBox

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you dont need the lfs for this you need home depot...you need a bulkhead fitting for the bottom of the tank and then maybe a reducer then a stand pipe. There are a million ways to fix your issues and everyone will have a slightly differing opinion which is better suited. As for me I would be drilling the back wall for the return as I feel it looks a heap cleaner without pvc pipes hanging over the back...but that just me..if you have a friend that is a plumber ask him to help.
 

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RocketEngineer

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Let’s start with the hole in the glass. You need to take a good measurement of the diameter. This will help you select the bulkhead fitting BaliReefBox mentioned. Now, my big box stores don’t carry the best selection so I typically buy online. I’m partial to BulkReefSupply but many other vendors carry bulkhead fittings. The goal is to get one as big as possible BUT small enough to fit into the hole.

Bulkheads come with a gasket and nut. The gasket goes against the flange of the fitting. Then the fitting goes through the glass. Finally the nut is installed. The nut should be tightened by hand as much as possible, then using a strap wrench/channel locks/pipe wrench, carefully tighten 1/4 turn more. Note: it doesn’t matter if you install the nut inside the tank or outside the tank, as long as you place the gasket on the flange of the fitting. The idea is the gasket seals the plastic to the glass. You don’t need silicone or grease on the gasket, they are more likely to cause issues. Also, the plumbing attaches inside the fitting, not the treads on the outside. Those threads are only for the nut.
 
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RocketEngineer

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Forgive me for answering in stages. Helps me organize my responses.

Plumbing sizes: ideally you want bigger drains than returns because the drains will have air in them to reduce noise. So, my last few systems have run 1” drain, 3/4” returns. Now, since you only have one drain pipe, it looks larger than a 1” bulkhead. If the bulkhead you find that works best is a 1.25” or 1.5”, I would run that size drain to the sump.

So, we now have the bulkhead installed, we now come to the overflow box. The box itself serves to keep the water in the display from draining out when the power goes out as well as pull the gunk from the water surface. However, water falling 18+ inches is noisy so we add a pipe to the bulkhead, inside the box, to keep the level in the box closer to the surface, reducing noise. The water flowing down the pipe can still be noisy so this clever fellow called Durso came up with a silencer for drains. The upside down U muffles the sound while the tube at the very top let’s air in through a valve. Adjusting the air flow let’s you dial in the system to minimize noise. Now there are other standpipe mufflers, other drain setup that use more than one hole/pipe, but Durso is the oldest and most common.
 
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RocketEngineer

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The returns I showed are looking from behind during assembly and from the hood being open. Here is what they looked like from the front:
0740C1AC-9D1D-411B-B2A5-C26C007A9514.jpeg

I also used Locline to position the flare outlets right at the water surface so I got no noise or splashing from them. They connected to my sump using black vinyl pipe:
50465C3B-65F0-462D-838A-661D4CE5E9BB.jpeg

You can see it above the red valve handle going to the side.

Hope this makes thing a bit clearer. Keep the questions coming, that’s what this forum is here for.
 
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FreshSaltyGuy

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you dont need the lfs for this you need home depot...you need a bulkhead fitting for the bottom of the tank and then maybe a reducer then a stand pipe. There are a million ways to fix your issues and everyone will have a slightly differing opinion which is better suited. As for me I would be drilling the back wall for the return as I feel it looks a heap cleaner without pvc pipes hanging over the back...but that just me..if you have a friend that is a plumber ask him to help.
Ahhh yes bulk head that's it!!! Now I know what it's called, I think I'm able to figure it out. I decided to drill the tank too, but question since there is a hole at the bottom already why don't I drill another hole next to it and have a reef style plumbing. If I do come through the back of the top of the tank what size box do you recommend for 40 gal? Best place to buy?
Also, wanted to ask what size PVC for drain and returns? Is the PVC pipes the BRS better quality than what I can get at home Depot or is the stuff at HD fine? Thanks!
 
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BaliReefBox

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you may want to go with something like this

I would buy the style of fitting you like/want, there are plenty out there. th above may be enough flow in the cube without having additional wave makers if you upgraded th return pump. I think you mentioned you were going to. Buy the fitting then drill the appropriate size hole. Just remember to position it so it doesnt drain your tank into the sump. There are articles on its position relative to the wier combs. There are some on the market with a syphon break built in
Yes you could drill th bottom also and have a perspex housing made and incorporate it into the corner...as I mentioned before there are a million ways to do this...
good luck
 
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FreshSaltyGuy

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Let’s start with the hole in the glass. You need to take a good measurement of the diameter. This will help you select the bulkhead fitting BaliReefBox mentioned. Now, my big box stores don’t carry the best selection so I typically buy online. I’m partial to BulkReefSupply but many other vendors carry bulkhead fittings. The goal is to get one as big as possible BUT small enough to fit into the hole.

Bulkheads come with a gasket and nut. The gasket goes against the flange of the fitting. Then the fitting goes through the glass. Finally the nut is installed. The nut should be tightened by hand as much as possible, then using a strap wrench/channel locks/pipe wrench, carefully tighten 1/4 turn more. Note: it doesn’t matter if you install the nut inside the tank or outside the tank, as long as you place the gasket on the flange of the fitting. The idea is the gasket seals the plastic to the glass. You don’t need silicone or grease on the gasket, they are more likely to cause issues. Also, the plumbing attaches inside the fitting, not the treads on the outside. Those threads are only for the nut.
Got it thanks so much! So how about my question on plumbing it like a reef style tank where there is a drain hole and then a return hole both at the bottom of the tank, but in my case it will be in the back right corner instead of the back middle.
The returns I showed are looking from behind during assembly and from the hood being open. Here is what they looked like from the front:
0740C1AC-9D1D-411B-B2A5-C26C007A9514.jpeg

I also used Locline to position the flare outlets right at the water surface so I got no noise or splashing from them. They connected to my sump using black vinyl pipe:
50465C3B-65F0-462D-838A-661D4CE5E9BB.jpeg

You can see it above the red valve handle going to the side.

Hope this makes thing a bit clearer. Keep the questions coming, that’s what this forum is here for.
Question totally not related to plumbing I think but more towards your skimmers. What is the one on top of the legos called is that a Dry Skimmer or Calcium reactor? I'm also trying to figure out if I should trash the small sump my system came with and try to cram a 20 gallon tall tank underneath which basically takes up the entire length and width and leaves me with about 8-10 inches to ceiling of cabinet, then I figured I would add the electronics *i.e. power strip etc.. to the back of the tank on the outside. What do you think? Thank you for your help and all the pictures it's really helping. I'll have more questions tomorrow I promise LOL.
 
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RocketEngineer

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Got it thanks so much! So how about my question on plumbing it like a reef style tank where there is a drain hole and then a return hole both at the bottom of the tank, but in my case it will be in the back right corner instead of the back middle.

Drilling glass takes nerve and patience. The willingness to ruin the tank if something goes wrong. However, lots of people have done it successfully first time, myself included. I broke the glass panel the third time I drilled glass though, so I’m aware of the risks. In my case it was for the overflow box on the outside of the tank before installation so not a big issue.

To be safe, you want one diameter of the hole you are drilling worth of glass on all sides of the new hole. For example, if you go to drill a 2” hole, you will need a 6” circle of clear space with no edges or other holes (2” center hole +2” on each side). This is the safe spacing, and you may not have that much room. Just keep in mind, the closer you are to the edge or another hole, the greater the chance of a crack/break.

Drilling glass is not like drilling other materials. You are effectively grinding a hole, not cutting. So lots of water, medium bit speed, and minimal pressure. The idea is to let the bit do it’s job. A guide is highly recommended as is a portable drill.
 
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BaliReefBox

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this is it or something simlilar. it is just siliconed or sikkaflexed into the tank. it hides the plumbing. you can put a acrylic plate onto the wier and adjust the flow etc. downside they need to be vacuumed once in awhile to clean out the poop. your standpipe is in the corner so you would just get an "L" in the corner. they do take up a bit of internal area but imo gives a cleaner finish
 

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BaliReefBox

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if you get a perspex/acrylic cover made get him to laser cut a drilling guide...all you need is a 6" square with a hole in the centre. like rocket said lots of water and dont press to hard on the drill. once half way tape the template to the other side and start again. this will leave you a nice clean hole. ( rotating is optional )
 
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