Tank is crashing and I’m so confused

[vetteguy53081]

Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[Uncle99]

When many corals look tired and slowly recede, I’d take a close look at your phosphate at 0.04ppm, it may be lower than you think. Your nitrate is fine but you need both.
In my system, as soon as phosphate is lower than 0.05ppm, my corals lose colour and PE, I need to run 0.1ppm to be sure they don’t starve.
While hobby grade tests are what we use, 0.04ppm could be zero.
I’d dose up that phosphate to 0.08ppm
If this is the problem, you should see a difference in two weeks.

 

[schuby]

Can you post a pic with white light before you siphon it out? How did you confirm it is cyano?

 

[lba4590]

Can you post a pic with white light before you siphon it out? How did you confirm it is cyano?

This is about a week ago or so, it’s worse now. Already blew everything off so it looks ok at the moment. Microscope confirmed it was cyano.

 

[lba4590]

When many corals look tired and slowly recede, I’d take a close look at your phosphate at 0.04ppm, it may be lower than you think. Your nitrate is fine but you need both.
In my system, as soon as phosphate is lower than 0.05ppm, my corals lose colour and PE, I need to run 0.1ppm to be sure they don’t starve.
While hobby grade tests are what we use, 0.04ppm could be zero.
I’d dose up that phosphate to 0.08ppm
If this is the problem, you should see a difference in two weeks.

I was wondering about this as well. Seems odd that my nitrates were around 50 and PO4 hasn’t changed at all (has always been between 0.07-0.04 since starting) but now that the nitrates have dropped significantly I would expect that to drop too. I have some I could dose but I was afraid of fueling the cyano even more.

 

[LateStageReefer]

If nopox is the only thing that can keep your nitrates in check we must look at how many times you interact with your tank.

Less food will help reduce the nitrates and phosphates when coupled with regular water changes.

I have only experienced Cyano from dosing nopox. Yes it will do its job but just as a user in your thread stated you cannot control what will use the carbon once you add it to the system. Nopox is like a bomb in your tank and it can create a lot of collateral damage to your bacteria.

GFO reactor is your next option and may be the only option. Thats what I did. Never needed to dose that "wanna-be chemical company Nopox" crap in my tank again.

Two little fishies brand with their phosbanL is the GFO reactor I use. Its small and doesn't get in the way. Careful not to put to much into the reactor though if you go this route as it can do the same thing and strip all the phosphates out of your tank and open the door to cyano or even dino.

Stay away from Red Sea products. People may have their opinion but they are NOT a chemical company. They are a commercial company who pushes their brand onto reefers.

Don't trust what their labels say.

 

[amazongb]

How's the flow where the cyano is most prevalent?

 

[lba4590]

How's the flow where the cyano is most prevalent?

I cranked it up a little more, it’s pretty high with good coverage all over the tank. The cyano doesn’t seem to care. It grows long strands in the areas with more flow. Mats are thicker in the few dead areas I have. But it’s everywhere.

 

[lba4590]

Thanks again everyone. I manually removed all the cyano, will swap filter socks every day along with blowing off rocks and sand, skimming wet, and dialed back the nopox. I’m going to hold off on Chemiclean for now and see if I can somewhat get it under control first and then I’ll give it a try. Not putting any more bacteria products in there!