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The question: Is it reasonable to use the distance from the bottom glass to the top of the water level as my "level" given the top rim (and/or bottom rim) is not even?
I have been going nuts trying to get my 40B "standard" tank level on my DIY (Using RocketEngineer plans) stand. The tank is not new, I picked it up with a sump from another reefer 10 years ago and never got it put together. My stand was level before I started to level the tank and it was sanded to a level plane. It sits in a 2'x3' sump tray in the basement so the usual shim method can't really be used. I figure out what I need, drain the tank, tilt the stand, and add the appropriate shimming. To make things fun, the basement floor is not really level nor even a plane.
This seemed to work when I had the tank backwards so I could work on the rear plumbing. I added a 1/8" strip under one side to fix the level over the length and a few composite shims in one corner fix the front to back level. Visually the water line seemed in line with the top rim. Huzzah!
When I rotated the tank after doing the rear plumbing it appeared to me dramatically out of level. Boo.
What I discovered is that the top rim is actually lifted 1/8" in one corner. I determined this by measuring between the bottom rim and the top rim. There is a 1/8" difference. So.. now.. when you add the 1/8" lift with the shim I used to account for it before, it visually appears to be 1/4" out. Weirdly, the bottom rim is perfectly level on all three reachable sides. Maybe the bottom trim is off?
TLDR: Tank trim not useful for leveling, need other method.
What I am left with:
Left to right:
Stand: out of level 1/8" high (the height of the shim under it)
Top rim out of level from bottom trim, 1/8" difference in "window" height left to right.
Bottom rim - currently perfectly level - may also be out of level since I know the stand is shimmed "up" one side.
Glass on bottom to water level - currently 1/8" too low on one side.
Front to back: less than 1/16", will keep current shimming in the one corner that had been dipping a little. It is "close enuff".
Q: Is it reasonable to use the distance from the bottom glass to the top of the water level as my "level" given the above? I expect if i remove the original strip of shim material I will still be < 1/16" off but I consider that good enough for a rimmed tank like this.
Thanks for your help.
I have been going nuts trying to get my 40B "standard" tank level on my DIY (Using RocketEngineer plans) stand. The tank is not new, I picked it up with a sump from another reefer 10 years ago and never got it put together. My stand was level before I started to level the tank and it was sanded to a level plane. It sits in a 2'x3' sump tray in the basement so the usual shim method can't really be used. I figure out what I need, drain the tank, tilt the stand, and add the appropriate shimming. To make things fun, the basement floor is not really level nor even a plane.
This seemed to work when I had the tank backwards so I could work on the rear plumbing. I added a 1/8" strip under one side to fix the level over the length and a few composite shims in one corner fix the front to back level. Visually the water line seemed in line with the top rim. Huzzah!
When I rotated the tank after doing the rear plumbing it appeared to me dramatically out of level. Boo.
What I discovered is that the top rim is actually lifted 1/8" in one corner. I determined this by measuring between the bottom rim and the top rim. There is a 1/8" difference. So.. now.. when you add the 1/8" lift with the shim I used to account for it before, it visually appears to be 1/4" out. Weirdly, the bottom rim is perfectly level on all three reachable sides. Maybe the bottom trim is off?
TLDR: Tank trim not useful for leveling, need other method.
What I am left with:
Left to right:
Stand: out of level 1/8" high (the height of the shim under it)
Top rim out of level from bottom trim, 1/8" difference in "window" height left to right.
Bottom rim - currently perfectly level - may also be out of level since I know the stand is shimmed "up" one side.
Glass on bottom to water level - currently 1/8" too low on one side.
Front to back: less than 1/16", will keep current shimming in the one corner that had been dipping a little. It is "close enuff".
Q: Is it reasonable to use the distance from the bottom glass to the top of the water level as my "level" given the above? I expect if i remove the original strip of shim material I will still be < 1/16" off but I consider that good enough for a rimmed tank like this.
Thanks for your help.
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