Tank Trials: Ultra Low Maintenance Tanks | BRStv Investigates

[WestonNanos]

ULM cycling to me would be to do just that, let it cycle. Add your chaeto, pods, a little bacteria and leave it untouched.

 

[WestonNanos]

ULM cycling to me would be to keep your hands off. Add your chaeto, pods, a little bacteria, let them run wild and leave it untouched.

 

[don_chuwish]

Loved the new video. Especially since I've been considering getting rid of my tank side ATO and just using my large RO container instead. I can gravity feed to the sump from it so many of the products mentioned would help me get there. Even automating the refill of the RO container since I already have the auto flush kit. Especially handy for vacation time.

 

[Finhead]

Great videos so as usual. Did I miss it in the last video, what Salt did you end up going with?

 

[MikeO5422]

Have to comment on ULM ATO. I have been piping my RO to my tank for a bit over 2 years. First I tried to refill the auto top off chamber then use that to top off the tank. After quite some time of being partially full and never rinsed the container got nasty and the pipes began to clog so be cautious there if you are gravity feeding....especially if you have cats (lots of hair). Now I pipe it directly to a float valve in the tank (yes i do replace my RO filters more often).

I use redundant solenoids that fail shut without power, time limits on the ato (can only be on for X minutes per run, can only run for X minutes total in a day), and redundant float switches where water detected opens the circuit. I do recommend a float and an optical though. The floats can get gross as we all know. Also close monitoring to understand how often it should be running and how long it normally runs each time. The point is, people say its dangerous (and it is) but I completely agree that you can take lots of reasonable precautions and be successful long term.

 

[dvbrien]

Update... http://m.liveaquaria.com/product/39...l-reef-salt?pcatid=3912&c=3753+3756+3834+3912

I got the water parameters done
Salinity is 1.026
Calcium 400 ppm
Magnesium 1360 ppm
Alkalinity 10 ppm
Ph 8.4

This card is what they say the levels will be... and it's a bit better.

I'l be switching now.

 

[Berlibee]

I've cycled several tanks last year and I think the best and easiest approach to cycle the tank can be described in a few easy steps:

1. Lights OFF on the main display, but ON on the refugium.
2. Ghost feeding every other day for the first week.
3. Skimmer OFF for the first week.
4. Using Dry Live Rocks with no left organics or bacterias, same for the sand dry Aragonite like CaribSea Aragonite line soaked in RO/DI for a few days before.
5. Using bacteria like BIO-Spira, ONE and ONLY or BioDigest. I like some extra material in a mesh bag in the sump as well for these bacteria like Seachem Matrix (POND version).
6. Adding PODs after 30 days of the cycle.
7. Start dosing phytoplankton to support bugs live (6) and corals in feature.

Good luck with your projects!

 

[Okinawa_reefer]

My idea of ULM: Please for the love of everything holy quit putting the order invoices in the box with my packages when I order them. I don't know how many more times I can handle answering to the wife when she sees how much money I spend.

 

[Rip Van Winkle]

Update... http://m.liveaquaria.com/product/39...l-reef-salt?pcatid=3912&c=3753+3756+3834+3912

I got the water parameters done
Salinity is 1.026
Calcium 400 ppm
Magnesium 1360 ppm
Alkalinity 10 ppm
Ph 8.4

This card is what they say the levels will be... and it's a bit better.

I'l be switching now.

Sorry but I don't understand the point of this post in regards to this thread? Did I miss something?

 

[Jgarcia]

Was discussing with mark.
There needs to be a tds meter coupled with a shut off valve on your ro system.
This way you will never have to keep a eye on your resign nearly as much and get alerts to your phone if it can be added to you apex system

 

[Jgarcia]

Was discussing with mark.
There needs to be a tds meter that you can link up to your apex and it can shut off your ro water when gets to high. Also give you an alert to your phone or email. This will really reduce they amount of checking on the color changing resin. And especially if yours isn’t color changing at all and requires you to constantly do check ups
Even have it inbetween each stage so you know exactly which one is going out

 

[Servillius]

I just read over the reviews for the Neptune auto topoff. I’m in the market for two new units and I wanted to compare it to Tunze after watching your latest show.

Was this really a wise choice? The reviews are brutal and consistent with other problems I’ve had with Apex. I know we’re not here to look backwards, but what do you know the reviewers don’t?

 

[Servillius]

I’m going to say something very unpopular when it comes to cycling. I wouldn’t do this on a 20 gallon, but at 60 gal plus, the real champion cycling method is still to add one small sturdy fish. As long as you keep the feeding very light the ammonia spike will be very gentle and as RHF has pointed out, Nitrite is not the issue in salt water that it is in freshwater. I also add Dr. Tim’s. This seems to produce a much more even nutrient load because the fish is converting the food into waste at a constant rate and done right it’s harmless to your finned friend.

I’ve also had great success with the Zeovit 14 day method and would consider it even if Zeovit were not my long term plan. This has always produced a very clean, low algae low waste cycle that you ramp up from slowly.

 

[Shawn Dahl]

I believe surface area is key to a cycle in a ULM tank. Since I believe that bare bottom tanks are best for the ULM tanks, you must find ways to add more surface area for the nitrifying bacteria to reproduce. What I would do is put some Marinepure bricks and plates anywhere I could in the sump. I would put a brick at the bottom of the refugium and plates between baffles. The brick will give an area for the anaerobic bacteria to convert the nitrates to nitrogen gas and the plates between baffles will allow more area for the nitrifying bacteria to get populated and get the ammonia converted rapidly. I know others believe sand is a must but I just don't believe this to be true. In the long run maintenance will be much less with the marinepure bricks.

Also very important to a cycle is keeping the lights off. The same components that the bacteria will be consuming to build their population also feeds nuisance algae and without the light for photosynthesis the algae will be outcompeted by the bacteria. This is a very important step in the long run of a successful ULM tank. The bacteria only need heat and food source to reproduce rapidly.

To get the cycle started I would put a shrimp in a media bag and place it somewhere in the tank that it will be easily removed. Let it sit there for about a week and check for ammonia. Once ammonia is present in the system I would put in a bottle of Biospira, replace my decaying shrimp with a new one, and start checking ammonia daily. I would replace my shrimp weekly and do this process until I can put a shrimp in and I get an ammonia spike and have it drop within 24 hours. This should take 4-5 weeks. At that time I would do a large water change and add my cheato to the refugium with good lighting over the fuge like the Kessil H380 on grow setting. Once the cheato takes off I'd add some pods to the refugium and the display tank. After giving the pods a few days to start populating I would add a small clean up crew and feed small amount to keep them from starving and a week later, the tank will be ready for a short lighting period and a small fish or 2. I personally like adding 2 juvenile clowns at this point

 

[Rip Van Winkle]

I believe surface area is key to a cycle in a ULM tank. Since I believe that bare bottom tanks are best for the ULM tanks, you must find ways to add more surface area for the nitrifying bacteria to reproduce. What I would do is put some Marinepure bricks and plates anywhere I could in the sump. I would put a brick at the bottom of the refugium and plates between baffles. The brick will give an area for the anaerobic bacteria to convert the nitrates to nitrogen gas and the plates between baffles will allow more area for the nitrifying bacteria to get populated and get the ammonia converted rapidly. I know others believe sand is a must but I just don't believe this to be true. In the long run maintenance will be much less with the marinepure bricks.

Also very important to a cycle is keeping the lights off. The same components that the bacteria will be consuming to build their population also feeds nuisance algae and without the light for photosynthesis the algae will be outcompeted by the bacteria. This is a very important step in the long run of a successful ULM tank. The bacteria only need heat and food source to reproduce rapidly.

To get the cycle started I would put a shrimp in a media bag and place it somewhere in the tank that it will be easily removed. Let it sit there for about a week and check for ammonia. Once ammonia is present in the system I would put in a bottle of Biospira, replace my decaying shrimp with a new one, and start checking ammonia daily. I would replace my shrimp weekly and do this process until I can put a shrimp in and I get an ammonia spike and have it drop within 24 hours. This should take 4-5 weeks. At that time I would do a large water change and add my cheato to the refugium with good lighting over the fuge like the Kessil H380 on grow setting. Once the cheato takes off I'd add some pods to the refugium and the display tank. After giving the pods a few days to start populating I would add a small clean up crew and feed small amount to keep them from starving and a week later, the tank will be ready for a short lighting period and a small fish or 2. I personally like adding 2 juvenile clowns at this point

With the exception of the marinepure instead of the sand, sounds almost exactly like what I posted. Great minds think alike, I guess

 

[Ryanbrs]

I just read over the reviews for the Neptune auto topoff. I’m in the market for two new units and I wanted to compare it to Tunze after watching your latest show.

Was this really a wise choice? The reviews are brutal and consistent with other problems I’ve had with Apex. I know we’re not here to look backwards, but what do you know the reviewers don’t?

Well, part of the reason I chose it is because on paper it looks better in many ways. However, I won't know for sure until I have used it for long periods of time. So there are elements of it being ULM on paper and I am putting some trust into this being accurate. I'd understand if that isn't the approach many would take and just went with the tried and true osmolator : )

From what I have gathered most of the complaints are related to the secondary sensor being fairly close to the primary. Looking at this myself it appears to be an inch or so higher. This is satisfactory for the way I design my systems. However, if your system design allows for large swings in sump volume I think this might be an issue. That said it is mobile and you can move it higher if you want. My suggestion to Neptune might be to sell or include an accessory magnet to be able to move the back up sensor higher as an option.

Some of the other complaints seem to be related to triggering the internal timer and it not being long enough for a specific install. I can't comment on this yet but again why I am using it here. Stay tuned : )

 

[jeffrey holloway]

Late to the conversation: Question for Ryanbrs. I didn't see any mention of ECO System Miracle Mud as viable ULM filtration system. I have been using it for over two yrs. now with great results. I only dose KH, CA, & MA, the mud releases all the other trace elements. What sold me besides all the heavyweight that swear by this stuff is the fact that u only have change half the filter once a year. The biggest headache for me was having to pull out at least half the cheato once a month and throw it out. No Nitrate or Phos problems ever. It does call for a small weekly water change in the DT to remove detritus build up. To me that's low maintenance, Just asking.

 

[Mical]

RE: ATOs - I'd like to warn all those considering the Neptune ATK - it's a great concept but if you dose kalk you'll be cleaning sensors multiple times a week. I have two and BOTH need constant cleaning multiple times weekly. I nearly ran a return pump dry because of it. Contacted Neptune and their recommendation was to move return line upstream of sensors. Problem w/that - you lose the redundancy of float.

 

[Ryanbrs]

RE: ATOs - I'd like to warn all those considering the Neptune ATK - it's a great concept but if you dose kalk you'll be cleaning sensors multiple times a week. I have two and BOTH need constant cleaning multiple times weekly. I nearly ran a return pump dry because of it. Contacted Neptune and their recommendation was to move return line upstream of sensors. Problem w/that - you lose the redundancy of float.

I have never seen precipitate build up on an optical sensor before. We will be dosing kalk in at least one of these tanks so I will be sure to explore that.

 

[Mical]

I have never seen precipitate build up on an optical sensor before. We will be dosing kalk in at least one of these tanks so I will be sure to explore that.

I hadn't either until purchasing the ATKs. They stay cleaner a little longer using citric acid you recommended in one of your videos. You know as well as anyone, living in Minnesota kalk is pretty much "standard operating procedure" in winter time.