Tenecor's $29* ReefPoint® 3 Gallon DIY Frag Kit Drops This Thursday

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OP
Tenecor Aquariums

Tenecor Aquariums

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I like the DIY aspect, something I have not really seen before for tanks.
I grew up in Amsterdam. My first tank was a little 5 gallon Dutch planted with five fish. The day Kennedy got shot I got my sixth fish. A gourami. Back then and over "there" I watched Bonanza, Gunsmoke and Flipper. Flipper was my favorite. Hooked on the hobby since then. Trying to keep this affordable for everyone
 

Tamberav

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Mine came today but just got a chance to peak now. Tank came beautifully packed. No way you charged me enough for shipping :face-in-clouds:

8D9FB62A-BE7F-4FAC-ABDE-3D354900EDB0.jpeg
 
OP
Tenecor Aquariums

Tenecor Aquariums

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Mine came today but just got a chance to peak now. Tank came beautifully packed. No way you charged me enough for shipping :face-in-clouds:

8D9FB62A-BE7F-4FAC-ABDE-3D354900EDB0.jpeg
It's all good.
 

demonclownfish

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Do you guys do custom acrylic work? I've been wanting a rotational chaeto barrel fuge that I can light from the side with a Par38 grow lamp. Whether it has 3 point spray bar or just 3 slanted veins that water flow would create a rotation. I guess the top wouldn't even need a hinge, just a set on top would be fine too.
Screenshot 2023-01-24 at 10.21.45 PM.png
 

Bret

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I am game to do some cad renderings for the pedastal sump if everyone can agree on the designs.

@Bret , your proposed drawing has the sump at 21" total length. This means it will be about 10" past the tank, just me but I do not think this will be aesthetically pleasing as it is almost twice as long as the tank.

I agree with @Tenecor Aquariums that the inclusion of a filter cup/sock as currently proposed will not be feasible when buried under the tank. I might be able to design an alternate that puts it in a more easily accessible place but will have to play with it.

Like I said I am up for doing some drawings. Probably wont be able to do them till Thursday night or Friday morning but if you can all hash out requirements by then I can work on a design.

What would be helpful for my drawing is a list of required components and overall acceptable dimensions. Then also a list of nice-to-have features that I can try to incorporate if I can make them fit.
I realize that dimension was confusing after I posted. Total length is 16” as originally proposed by Tenecore. The extra 5” was just to show the dimensions of that chamber.
hadn’t really thought out sock access lol. You would have to lift the tank off
Another feature I think would be real cool is to make the baffle which supports the back wall of the tank out of 1/2” thick acrylic, extend the height about 1/2” above the top of the sump, then mill the forward face into an L shape so the back wall of the tank still sits flush on top of the sump, but has a “stop” to register against. This will help to keep the tank located securely in position on top of the sump. Let me know if this does not make sense.
I could go on for days with cool little features to add.
a horizontal heater holder, probe holders, dosing tube holders. We could really trick this thing out.
 

dlsorensen

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I think I'm going to give this one a try.


Been wanting to try these over my 4 foot tank so figure this little one would be a good way to see if I like the light spectrum.
Thank you! Looks like a great affordable option!!
 
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Good morning Reefers!

One of the second shift guys put together the first mockup of the sump pedestal. It's going to work, with changes. After dry fitting it, just for fun, they wanted to see how strong it was. It held together, with tape only, up to around 600 pounds before collapsing. Below are some images (before the load test :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes: ),

Comments on each pic below. Takeaways on the next post.

a1.jpg

this is the sump area. the baffle on the left will have a generous single opening. the right side will remain solid. the pump will sit in front of the left side.

a3.jpg

this is the bottom of the tank bottom viewing front to back. Protective paper.

a4.jpg


Front corner detail. Nice, tight tolerances. Notice the front panel covers the edge of the side panels.

a5.jpg


Top view. Lots of changes coming on this one. See next post.

a6.jpg


a7.jpg


Laser etched logo, Can be reversed for no logo.

a8.jpg


a9.jpg


Again, please notice the corner detail.
 
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The baffles will be factory notched so that they will field assemble as shown below. Two green, one red. They can be glued together (recommended) but importantly, not glued to the sump pedestal itself. That way, the baffle assembly can be removed for cleaning/maintenance if required. Crayola drawings further explain the concept. One interesting thing to note is that the tank bottom is clear. With no substrate, you will have some light shine down into the sump area. Should make for some interesting flora and fauna. This will be a very stable environment. Adding rubble to one or more of the chambers is also an option. Thoughts?
aa.jpg

aa1.jpg

aa2.jpg
 

AdamD76

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The baffles will be factory notched so that they will field assemble as shown below. Two green, one red. They can be glued together (recommended) but importantly, not glued to the sump pedestal itself. That way, the baffle assembly can be removed for cleaning/maintenance if required. Crayola drawings further explain the concept. One interesting thing to note is that the tank bottom is clear. With no substrate, you will have some light shine down into the sump area. Should make for some interesting flora and fauna. This will be a very stable environment. Adding rubble to one or more of the chambers is also an option. Thoughts?
aa.jpg

aa1.jpg

aa2.jpg
Looks great! I can't wait.
 

Tamberav

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The baffles will be factory notched so that they will field assemble as shown below. Two green, one red. They can be glued together (recommended) but importantly, not glued to the sump pedestal itself. That way, the baffle assembly can be removed for cleaning/maintenance if required. Crayola drawings further explain the concept. One interesting thing to note is that the tank bottom is clear. With no substrate, you will have some light shine down into the sump area. Should make for some interesting flora and fauna. This will be a very stable environment. Adding rubble to one or more of the chambers is also an option. Thoughts?
aa.jpg

aa1.jpg

aa2.jpg

Something like this would make it possible to accommodate a skimmer with the flow over set to common nano skimmer heights.

It would also mean the last chamber will have the evaporation. In your current sketch, the entire thing will evaporate down. With such a small chamber doing all the evaportation, I would recommend people use an regular ATO or a gravity ATO which would be hidden behind the tank anyways (they have water bottle style ones on amazon for $12).

and yes people need to realize to deep clean you need to have easy disconnect on plumbing and drain the tank part way to move it to access the sump. No real good way to run socks/floss. Those things are optional and some people don't use them. I would suggest not using them tbh since if it is not easy to clean, it doesn't get done regularly.

It would make a good 'cryptic' type sump though.

If people don't use sand and light shines through, you will likely get algae growing with no CUC in there or at least a film all along it that will eventually block a good amount of light but also probably not look very pleasing.

A person could grow coralline eventually blocking the light into the sump or add starboard to the bottom of the tank if they want bare bottom.

1674661816807.png
 
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Tamberav

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Also there is nothing that says a person couldn't buy this, decide to not use it as a pedestal and use it as a normal sump. So anyone not keen on stacking the tanks, there is nothing that is preventing you from not stacking them :)
 

dedragon

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I think I'm going to give this one a try.


Been wanting to try these over my 4 foot tank so figure this little one would be a good way to see if I like the light spectrum.

Thank you! Looks like a great affordable option!!
Dont, I tried getting this last week and they are out of stock for this for at least 6 months, my light was refunded. If you want the 50/50 10" those are in stock though, just not what I was looking for personally
 

Tamberav

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Dont, I tried getting this last week and they are out of stock for this for at least 6 months, my light was refunded. If you want the 50/50 10" those are in stock though, just not what I was looking for personally

This tank is so small and shallow...

Maybe he regular ones are in stock?

 

dedragon

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This tank is so small and shallow...

Maybe he regular ones are in stock?

I thought about it but the led colors given arent the best either. Would have to buy a 2:1 and then just the blue, so im using an old abi par38 bulb i had lying around which should work for at least another year until I can figure something better out
 

Bret

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The baffles will be factory notched so that they will field assemble as shown below. Two green, one red. They can be glued together (recommended) but importantly, not glued to the sump pedestal itself. That way, the baffle assembly can be removed for cleaning/maintenance if required. Crayola drawings further explain the concept. One interesting thing to note is that the tank bottom is clear. With no substrate, you will have some light shine down into the sump area. Should make for some interesting flora and fauna. This will be a very stable environment. Adding rubble to one or more of the chambers is also an option. Thoughts?
aa.jpg

aa1.jpg

aa2.jpg
I agree with what @Tamberav said about the back chamber being split up for a possible skimmer and a flow-over baffle to control water height.
Also, I think the "forward" green baffle is unnecessary and would severely limit your heater choices by shortening the effective length of that chamber

Another thing I though of is how salt creep might be an issue at the interface between the tank and sump. A small eaurobrace top pies could help eliminate this.
 

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