Test results are in and its not looking good! Any advice?

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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good deal. and, your animals come from those temp ranges as well, not a huge change. the oxygen usage and metabolic rate changes / gas exchange rates change within the tank at higher temps relative to their usual surroundings, but its also neat to see how well things adapt. we/ten thousand pico reefers shoved a whole reef into a system so small you can pick it up and carry across the room full running :)

too small, too hot, all are boundary investigations. mainly I think if you'll export the tank/change water and detritus compounds siphoned out more often when its warm, then lesser when cool, that change with the seasons will help stability. I think cpr-style actions need to peak with warmth and then trough out with anything near 80 back to normal reefing mode.
 
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Jon Fishman

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Have you tested the TDS of your RO water? If you’re getting RO fast enough to wash the dishes, I just question how good it is filtering. How old are the filters?
 

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Ralph, I think it has already been established that you entered into this hobby without having adequate time to do the research first and without some of the equipment you will need to be successful long term. Okay so some of this livestock came into your care without having time to prepare as well. I would suggest that you now go and do that research if you want to continue this hobby. The internet is littered with information (both on this forum and other sources). It can be frustrating and very time consuming and one of the main reasons so many people exit the hobby within a few years.

I understand you have a lot of questions, but I honestly believe it is time to take a few steps back from this thread and search for the information you need, now that you believe the livestock are doing well in your tank.
 

Rilo

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The only reason I think it is a false positive is because the Nitrite tests are coming up empty and the bacteria transferred to the reservoir has confirmed its existence by converting ammonia levels into Nitrite. I tried to create a zero and failed by using RO water with synthetic salt. It came back blue which isn't even a valid result color.

If this is not a false positive than this can only mean that there is a steady supply of ammonia in the tank from uneaten food which is a very reasonable conclusion and that there is enough bacteria to convert the Nitrite immediately into Nitrate.

The red algae growth has now become a problem and I I had to brush a lot of it off, now that the remaining Torches are doing great, the Star Coral Polyps started hiding.

I have had so many different kinds of pets, and excluding a gecko that was chased down and eaten by my cats, none of them were ever this problematic! If they really want to die than so be it, it will be a fish only tank. They have everything they need right now. After brushing off the red algae the star coral did start to bloom again but this is ridiculous! Its obvious these corals are suicidal.

Of course I'm being dramatic but even though they're doing well now I'm very frustrated with how problematic they are. The fish-only option is becoming more and more likely every day.
Keeping coral isn't for everyone. It miles easier to have a FOWLR tank. cheaper in the long run to. This is just the beginning for coral care.
 
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Ralph Ritoch

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I hate to beat this dead horse, but what exactly should I be using to test the Ammonia that is more accurate? I found some chinese brand that claims to be better, and Tetra easy test strips. API clearly dominates this market and I don't see any notable better options.
 

CatfishCatfish

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Ralph, I suggest you watch this and check out other videos on this channel
BRS 52 weeks of reefing ammonia
Ammonia spikes

It may point towards things you have discovered already, but will also be packed with new information too.

Here is a test kit review from another reefer
Test kit review

There are a lot of brands out there and lots of reviews too. Most of these kits will be available on eBay and from other online sellers.

I typed “test kits” into the search function on this forum and found this and heaps of other discussions
Test kits

Chances are a lot of the questions you have, have already been answered in other discussions and threads and a quick search will come up with those results if they’re here.
Wishing you all the best.
 
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Ralph Ritoch

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As a final update to this situation the Ammonia test result doesn't change and it now matches the color from testing the reservoir. I believe this color is the zero for this API test with NSW and maybe there's something off about the chemistry giving a false reading.

The reservoir has fully cycled with the Nitrite level gone down to zero. A big surprise is that the Nitrate level of the tank dropped from 40ppm to 20ppm, possibly due to the algae, I don't know. Next week will be my first water change with this water but I don't expect any problems.

I also don't know why the star coral has suddenly closed. It happened a few days ago right after increasing the salt content and a shift in local weather. I again lowered the salt content, using RO water, to the original measured value of 1.022 under the assumption that the meter if reading lower than the actual value but this hasn't lead to any notable change. I'll just let this value creep back to the 1.024 level by keeping the reservoir around 1.024.

I still haven't received the quick start but whenever it arrives I'll add some to both tanks even though they're already cycled since I trust it more than this wild bacteria. I'm not sure if I still want to build a larger system anymore, maybe just an oversized sump that could handle a larger system and if the effects on this system are notable maybe reconsider the option of a larger system.
 

Drew in Texas

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Ralph, I agree with Bill. I'm a chemical engineer and grew up on a farm. The two biggest water pollutants from industry and agriculture, usually found in rivers and near to shore in the ocean are nitrogen and ammonia. If you think about it, it makes perfect sense. Think about all the junk and chemicals that wind up on the ground that wash into the water. The closer to shore you are, the higher the concentration of all that crap is in the water. If you go a couple of hundred yards off shore and away from river estuaties, the chemistry of your salt water will be significantly better. I had a 900 gallon that I used exclusively ocean water in, but ALWAYS went out more than 1 mile to get my water.If you can do that, I'll bet your ammonia issue goes away.
 

Daoz126

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I'm going to add some Prime to the system and do a 10% water change. If this survives another month I'll add led lighting. Anyone know how I could add activated carbon to this system? The RO filter I have doesn't work well without about 20-30 PSI so I don't see how I could add activated carbon to this system.
I do recommend prime I usually do water changes every 2-3 weeks 20-30% but if I ever gotta push it back another week or so prime is your best friend now it's not a solution but it will by you some more time. For carbon I usually buy the bags from Amazon and leave them in my wet dry sump and switch it every month or so plus I have a hang on filter with sponge and carbon also keeps the water crystal clear
 
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Ralph Ritoch

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So.. The lights are in! The aquarium itself is stable but the Star Coral did die and one of the 4 torches has retracted for a few days. Hopefully he'll come out for the lights! 165W of LED power on a 40 gallon. As for the stats, still getting the false 0.25 PPM reading but I'm not so worried about it. There is a lot of algae growth and I'm hoping it pulls down the nitrate soon, nitrate is at 40ppm.

20190812_132824.jpg
 

ZaneTer

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You NEED to lift that light up or you WILL cook whatever is underneath it. I highly recommend a par meter and watching the BRS episode on lighting.
 
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Ralph Ritoch

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You NEED to lift that light up or you WILL cook whatever is underneath it. I highly recommend a par meter and watching the BRS episode on lighting.

Maybe you can't tell from the picture but there's no way to lift the light up. I have blue at about 50% and the multi-color at about 25% and there's no signs of heating. The lights have fans and I have an extra fan left of the light that I can use on hot days.
 

ZaneTer

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Cooking a coral doesn’t refer to heat it means too much PAR. It’s your problem that the light is too low and you have nobody to blame but yourself. You are the architect in this scenario.

You also have a hard time listening.

You won’t last in this hobby and all the better for it. The countless fish and corals saved by you exiting will be eternally grateful.
 
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Ralph Ritoch

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Cooking a coral doesn’t refer to heat it means too much PAR. It’s your problem that the light is too low and you have nobody to blame but yourself. You are the architect in this scenario.

You also have a hard time listening.

You won’t last in this hobby and all the better for it. The countless fish and corals saved by you exiting will be eternally grateful.

You are incredibly rude! If I wasn't listening I wouldn't have responded! I am trying but no, I wasn't born with a PHD in marine biology! Now go away, troll, you are NOT helping. Even if you are right about the light, which I hope you are not because I literally have no way to attach it other than where it is, at this time!

Lastly, I just read another article on the subject which says the farther away the light is, the less the intensity, so lowering to 50% and 25% ultimately has the same effect as far as I can tell!

Also, I am NOT the architect! I hired someone to build this for me!
 
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Ralph Ritoch

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As per a quick assistance and while I don't have any better options right now I changed the lighting intensity to about 75% blue, and 15% white (multi). There are no corals near the top of the tank to cook, so whatever happens, its on me right! No point in trying? Again, I wasn't born with a PHD in Marine Biology!
 

ZaneTer

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You are the only person I have ever been short tempered with on this forum. You dismiss anything you don’t agree with as troll advice and have been unbelievably rude to many of the “masters” on this forum.

You have made almost every possible mistake so far. Nobody expects you to have a phd. We do expect some common decency out of you.
 
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Ralph Ritoch

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You are the only person I have ever been short tempered with on this forum. You dismiss anything you don’t agree with as troll advice and have been unbelievably rude to many of the “masters” on this forum.

You have made almost every possible mistake so far. Nobody expects you to have a phd. We do expect some common decency out of you.


I dismissed you as a troll because you were being rude! Apparently you didn't notice that I followed a LOT of advice. I bought the led lighting, I've used quick start bacteria, and a number of other suggestions in my processing. If you don't like me then don't respond. You aren't helping at all!! Your advice was EXTREMELY POORLY delivered! Luckily someone else came in with better advice that was actually applicable to the situation!
 
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Ralph Ritoch

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You are the only person I have ever been short tempered with on this forum. You dismiss anything you don’t agree with as troll advice and have been unbelievably rude to many of the “masters” on this forum.

You have made almost every possible mistake so far. Nobody expects you to have a phd. We do expect some common decency out of you.

Also I want to point out, they are your masters, NOT MINE! There were a few people here like Brandon that truly helped me. The fish are doing well and the remaining coral was doing great for a little while but the red algae is attacking the colony. If you are too much of a snowflake to handle me disrespecting your masters, that is on you, not me! I wasn't rude, I just called things as I saw them and I was right. The moderator even stepped in and deleted many of the trolling posts against me!
 

Bryson.bobby

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Ralph, I agree with @ZaneTer to an extent. You’ll want to raise that light, even maybe a few inches if that’s all you can do. Looks like you have at least that much if u can figure out how to hang it with little room
 
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