Fudsey
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The Blue Window - 500 G in wall, never ending build
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- Thread starter Dennis Cartier
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OP
OP
I am happy to report the 2 pneumatic cylinders showed up yesterday. I guess Ebay's Global Shipping combined 2 packages into 1 (the cylinder boxes were strapped together) and they had an extra shipping label, and stuck it onto a box containing women's shoes. I peeled the address label off that had my address on it, and the address under it was a lady in Kentucky. Unfortunately I don't think she will be getting her shoes as they were sent to the wrong area of the country, and in fact, the wrong country.
I have the 2 pneumatic cylinders mounted and working. I hope to be able to show a cool new feature of the build in the next week or so. Assuming it works, and turns out to be cool. Otherwise, I will sweep it under the rug and pretend it never existed.
I think I have found someone to help my with the facade and sump. Which is great news. I have been struggling to find someone that shares my vision as to how to fabricate the facade. I want removable panels with magnetic retention, preferably in a composite material and finished in white lacquer to match the Red Sea Reefer look. The new fabricator is suggesting PVC and gives 2 thumbs up for magnetic retention, so yeah, finally! As well, I had been thinking a stock tank for the sump, but it just felt wrong and out of place. So I will get a custom sump made for the build (about 108" x 24" x 18"). A stock tank may still make an appearance as an attached 150G frag tank, but that will be dependant on rearranging existing fishroom systems.
Dennis
I have the 2 pneumatic cylinders mounted and working. I hope to be able to show a cool new feature of the build in the next week or so. Assuming it works, and turns out to be cool. Otherwise, I will sweep it under the rug and pretend it never existed.
I think I have found someone to help my with the facade and sump. Which is great news. I have been struggling to find someone that shares my vision as to how to fabricate the facade. I want removable panels with magnetic retention, preferably in a composite material and finished in white lacquer to match the Red Sea Reefer look. The new fabricator is suggesting PVC and gives 2 thumbs up for magnetic retention, so yeah, finally! As well, I had been thinking a stock tank for the sump, but it just felt wrong and out of place. So I will get a custom sump made for the build (about 108" x 24" x 18"). A stock tank may still make an appearance as an attached 150G frag tank, but that will be dependant on rearranging existing fishroom systems.
Dennis
Fudsey
Jack of all trades, Master of none ;-)
Reef Squad
Excellence Award
Reef Tank 365
Photo of the Month
Hospitality Award
NHFS Member
My Tank Thread
You should be able to take it back to the shipping company that delivered it and they will send it back to the shipper or forward it at no cost to you. Glad you got the cylinders 
I think you will be happy with the sump decision. I run a stock tank sump and it has its issues. One is sloped walls so care is needed to get your dosing system to drip without hitting the wall. Another is getting a skimmer set up just right. I went external instead. Still another is micro bubbles from the return. Those are issues I have encountered anyways.
Look forward to seeing the sump you are having made.
Look forward to seeing the sump you are having made.
OP
OP
Probably time for an update. I had hoped to have a post about a new feature, but it is dragging on, so I will post about something else.
In my previous tank, actually 2 tanks back, I made my own controller. It was based on Raspberry Pi and Beaglebone boards. This was before the ReefPi project came to be. Every feature that I needed, I had a DIY version. AWC, ATO, several dosing heads, etc. I really enjoyed the experience of solving reefing's challenges in my own way. However, it also became apparent, that whatever state the module/system/device was in when I put it into use, that was the state that it would remain. Meaning, going back and tidying up wiring, etc. was not my strong point. That is one of the reasons why I am taking my time with this build. I am fairly certain that once it is wet, it will be pretty much pre-determined in how it will progress, or not progress, as it goes on.
With that in mind, I decided to try a different electronic hobbyist system for this build. I still want to build most of the solutions myself. To account for issues of quality control and/or reliability, I plan on engineering resistance to failure. I guess you could say, I expect failure and will be planning for it.
The first change, is that I am going to use the Grove system from Seeed Studios. They provide a variety of different boards with various capabilities, but what makes them unique is that the interconnection system is standardized using inexpensive pre-made cables. So no longer will I have messy wiring as the wiring already has simplicity included. By using a system that includes a wiring solution, the prototype and production version of an idea will require and use the same wiring. No more worry about wires becoming dislodged as all connectors have locks. At least for all the interconnecting cables.
Here is my order of various Grove parts that I expect to draw from when developing the control systems for the tank.
The control system will use Raspberry Pi, but I also plan on trying out the new NodeMCU boards and leveraging the built in WiFi. They are ridiculously inexpensive and can be used for basic controller duties (digital, PWM, Analog, I2C). I also included a few Arduino boards as they can be good for disconnected embedded solutions.
The other change, is that I am going to be planning for failure. The problems I had with my frag tank while on vacation this past winter, can all be traced to poor maintenance, so best plan to make the system be able to help alert me to issues before they become critical and capable of doing the tank harm.
With that in mind, I am planning on running multiple instances of each system. Everything will be duplicated as a minimum, or in some cases contain n+1 copies of a hardware item. That means duplicate return pumps, duplicate ATO, duplicate AWC, duplicate heater controls, duplicate float switches, duplicate power/circuit breakers, etc.
Duplicate systems will only be the start, this will also require failure detection and prevention in the form of failure prediction and testing. As an example, for heating, I will not have 2 heaters, I plan on having 2 banks of multiple heaters. Most likely 2 banks of 3 or 4 smaller heaters. Each bank would have its own temperature and relay controller, with the ability to perform automated testing of the heaters to detect failed units (E.g. failed off or failed on). So by operating n-1 units at a time, I hope to be able to detect hardware that needs replacement/attention. This failure detection will be extended to all the hardware, where possible. One of the issues I had recently, was a stuck float switch on an ATO. By providing a minimum of 2 float switches for an ATO, and having duplicate ATO's, a quorum can be established to determine the failed hardware point. For pumps that involve periodic operation (I will have a few of those), then the cycle time can be tracked and used to determine both changes over time for all pumps (E.g. a clean pump can lower or raise the water level for triggering a sensor in x time, but x+n is required as the pump becomes less efficient).
I will leave it there. I will post up a video later about the feature that is going to be long than planned.
Dennis
In my previous tank, actually 2 tanks back, I made my own controller. It was based on Raspberry Pi and Beaglebone boards. This was before the ReefPi project came to be. Every feature that I needed, I had a DIY version. AWC, ATO, several dosing heads, etc. I really enjoyed the experience of solving reefing's challenges in my own way. However, it also became apparent, that whatever state the module/system/device was in when I put it into use, that was the state that it would remain. Meaning, going back and tidying up wiring, etc. was not my strong point. That is one of the reasons why I am taking my time with this build. I am fairly certain that once it is wet, it will be pretty much pre-determined in how it will progress, or not progress, as it goes on.
With that in mind, I decided to try a different electronic hobbyist system for this build. I still want to build most of the solutions myself. To account for issues of quality control and/or reliability, I plan on engineering resistance to failure. I guess you could say, I expect failure and will be planning for it.
The first change, is that I am going to use the Grove system from Seeed Studios. They provide a variety of different boards with various capabilities, but what makes them unique is that the interconnection system is standardized using inexpensive pre-made cables. So no longer will I have messy wiring as the wiring already has simplicity included. By using a system that includes a wiring solution, the prototype and production version of an idea will require and use the same wiring. No more worry about wires becoming dislodged as all connectors have locks. At least for all the interconnecting cables.
Here is my order of various Grove parts that I expect to draw from when developing the control systems for the tank.
The control system will use Raspberry Pi, but I also plan on trying out the new NodeMCU boards and leveraging the built in WiFi. They are ridiculously inexpensive and can be used for basic controller duties (digital, PWM, Analog, I2C). I also included a few Arduino boards as they can be good for disconnected embedded solutions.
The other change, is that I am going to be planning for failure. The problems I had with my frag tank while on vacation this past winter, can all be traced to poor maintenance, so best plan to make the system be able to help alert me to issues before they become critical and capable of doing the tank harm.
With that in mind, I am planning on running multiple instances of each system. Everything will be duplicated as a minimum, or in some cases contain n+1 copies of a hardware item. That means duplicate return pumps, duplicate ATO, duplicate AWC, duplicate heater controls, duplicate float switches, duplicate power/circuit breakers, etc.
Duplicate systems will only be the start, this will also require failure detection and prevention in the form of failure prediction and testing. As an example, for heating, I will not have 2 heaters, I plan on having 2 banks of multiple heaters. Most likely 2 banks of 3 or 4 smaller heaters. Each bank would have its own temperature and relay controller, with the ability to perform automated testing of the heaters to detect failed units (E.g. failed off or failed on). So by operating n-1 units at a time, I hope to be able to detect hardware that needs replacement/attention. This failure detection will be extended to all the hardware, where possible. One of the issues I had recently, was a stuck float switch on an ATO. By providing a minimum of 2 float switches for an ATO, and having duplicate ATO's, a quorum can be established to determine the failed hardware point. For pumps that involve periodic operation (I will have a few of those), then the cycle time can be tracked and used to determine both changes over time for all pumps (E.g. a clean pump can lower or raise the water level for triggering a sensor in x time, but x+n is required as the pump becomes less efficient).
I will leave it there. I will post up a video later about the feature that is going to be long than planned.
Dennis
OP
OP
I am pretty much done with the pneumatic systems. My idea to pull the light rack up from the centre as well as the ends to stop the sagging, did not work out initially. I soon discovered that the amount of vertical lift could only be balanced easily by using the same dimensions for the triangle formed by the first 2 pulleys and pneumatic tie rod end. I re-did the pulley layout, and now it gets full support all through it's range of motion. I also replaced the kevlar line with a slightly thicker and stronger version.
Because the other feature that uses pneumatics is taking longer (a lot longer) than planned. I will just show the pneumatics for it. The newly added lower pneumatic valve controls a 1000mm pneumatic cylinder mounted on each end of the tank.
Finally, those cylinders actuate a sliding panel at the rear of the tank.
Dennis
Because the other feature that uses pneumatics is taking longer (a lot longer) than planned. I will just show the pneumatics for it. The newly added lower pneumatic valve controls a 1000mm pneumatic cylinder mounted on each end of the tank.
Finally, those cylinders actuate a sliding panel at the rear of the tank.
Dennis
OP
OP
Time for an update. Not much has been happening with the system. I have been waiting for my vendor for the sump and facade to get me to the top of their list so work can be started. I need to get my design ideas ready for the sump. I figured I would open up a CAD program and put my ideas into action ... but, I have not used a CAD program for a few years and it seems that I have forgotten much of what I used to know. Pretty embarrassing considering I have been an IT professional for 30 years! Oh well, I will still elaborate on my plans here, both to organize my thoughts and to layout my ideas for feedback.
The size of the sump will be approximately 9' x 2' x 2'. It will be constructed in 1/2" PVC. The end closest to my overflow box will be the main part of the sump. This section will be 4' in length and will be arranged in a U shape. My plan is that water will drop into one corner through a filter sock section. I am not planning to run filter socks, but wish to have the option should I every need to, or change my mind. As this section will be an overflow section, I also plan to incorporate a bank of heater holders.
This should take the form of a row of brackets that heaters can drop into and be suspended out of the way of being impacted. I am leaning towards using 6 EboJager heaters with just the glass jacket in the water. It might be a bit tricky to get the insertion depth right, but I expect that custom inserts can be CNC'd to insertion depth of the heater to adjust the water level on the heater body. Each heater will use an external temperature controller, and each of those will be on its own controlled outlet. This will give each heater 2 thermostats, 1 in the heater and 1 in the temperature controller, along with the ability to turn individual heaters on and off. I plan to incorporate rate of change monitoring to detect failed or maladjusted heaters. By enabling different heater combinations, hopefully failures can be auto detected and an alert can be raised.
Ok, now that I have the heater plan laid out, the in sump heaters may end up being just for backup purposes. The reason being is that across the hall from my fish room is my household utility room and it contains 2 tank-less water heaters. One of which is used for both domestic hot water and in floor radiant heating for the basement. I got the idea from a thread on here that I could integrate a titanium heat exchanger and use one of the the tank-less units to heat the tank. I would probably use the radiant heating one as it has a separate boiler loop that keeps the radiant water separate from the domestic water. It was double the price of the normal tank-less unit, so hopefully tasking it in for tank heating does not impact its lifespan too much.
I have recently been looking at RK2 Systems equipment and will probably get a quote on one of their heat exchanger units for this setup. I am also considering them for a skimmer, UV and Ozone. I am undecided on the UV and Ozone. I found the UV on my frag tank to be surprisingly handy on my frag tank for SPS, but it goes against the other main feature of my sump detailed below.
The next compartment of the sump will be for general use. Either in sump skimmer, or any in sump equipment. It should be about 24" x 24" in size. There will be at least 2 pumps in this section to feed the filter portion of the sump (detailed below) as well as feed pumps for a 150 G stock tank that I am planning on integrating as a holding tank.
The last leg of the U section will be for the return pumps. I plan on running dual return pumps for redundancy. This section will be the lowest point of the sump, so the ATO will be implemented here. I am still working on the ATO/AWC plans.
The last 5' of the sump will be the filter portion. The filter will be subdivided into 3 sections, and will be setup like a DyMiCo filter. It will take the form of a central media compartment housing a media bed of reborn media about 14" deep and 36" long. PVC piping will run through the media compartment connecting a 12" section on each end. Each 12" compartment will contain redundant pumps. The section at the end of the sump will be the process compartment that pumps water through the media bed using piping located at the top of the media bed, and the water will return to this compartment through piping running through the bottom of the media bed. The compartment on the other end of the media compartment, closest to the general sump, will contain 2 pumps and float switches to exchange water with the sump area. This will be fed with water from the piping running along the bottom of the media compartment. Above the media in the media compartment will be a 4" deep sand bed separated by a perforated sheet. The sand in this bed will be fairly heavy (36" x 24" x 4"), so internal buttressing inside the media compartment will be added for the perforated sheet to sit on. I am planning on each section of the filter area having its own lid to cut down on evaporation and light. All the plumbing will transit through bulkheads in the walls of the compartments rather than from the top to make tops simple. There will be a top bezel on the filter, so this may be utilized for inter compartment plumbing as well.
That is my rough plan for the sump at the moment. In other news, my A.C.R calcium reactor is supposed to be shipping. Hopefully Bill (@Pigpen) gets this out to me soon. It's been a long wait.
Any constructive thoughts or feedback would be welcomed.
Dennis
The size of the sump will be approximately 9' x 2' x 2'. It will be constructed in 1/2" PVC. The end closest to my overflow box will be the main part of the sump. This section will be 4' in length and will be arranged in a U shape. My plan is that water will drop into one corner through a filter sock section. I am not planning to run filter socks, but wish to have the option should I every need to, or change my mind. As this section will be an overflow section, I also plan to incorporate a bank of heater holders.
This should take the form of a row of brackets that heaters can drop into and be suspended out of the way of being impacted. I am leaning towards using 6 EboJager heaters with just the glass jacket in the water. It might be a bit tricky to get the insertion depth right, but I expect that custom inserts can be CNC'd to insertion depth of the heater to adjust the water level on the heater body. Each heater will use an external temperature controller, and each of those will be on its own controlled outlet. This will give each heater 2 thermostats, 1 in the heater and 1 in the temperature controller, along with the ability to turn individual heaters on and off. I plan to incorporate rate of change monitoring to detect failed or maladjusted heaters. By enabling different heater combinations, hopefully failures can be auto detected and an alert can be raised.
Ok, now that I have the heater plan laid out, the in sump heaters may end up being just for backup purposes. The reason being is that across the hall from my fish room is my household utility room and it contains 2 tank-less water heaters. One of which is used for both domestic hot water and in floor radiant heating for the basement. I got the idea from a thread on here that I could integrate a titanium heat exchanger and use one of the the tank-less units to heat the tank. I would probably use the radiant heating one as it has a separate boiler loop that keeps the radiant water separate from the domestic water. It was double the price of the normal tank-less unit, so hopefully tasking it in for tank heating does not impact its lifespan too much.
I have recently been looking at RK2 Systems equipment and will probably get a quote on one of their heat exchanger units for this setup. I am also considering them for a skimmer, UV and Ozone. I am undecided on the UV and Ozone. I found the UV on my frag tank to be surprisingly handy on my frag tank for SPS, but it goes against the other main feature of my sump detailed below.
The next compartment of the sump will be for general use. Either in sump skimmer, or any in sump equipment. It should be about 24" x 24" in size. There will be at least 2 pumps in this section to feed the filter portion of the sump (detailed below) as well as feed pumps for a 150 G stock tank that I am planning on integrating as a holding tank.
The last leg of the U section will be for the return pumps. I plan on running dual return pumps for redundancy. This section will be the lowest point of the sump, so the ATO will be implemented here. I am still working on the ATO/AWC plans.
The last 5' of the sump will be the filter portion. The filter will be subdivided into 3 sections, and will be setup like a DyMiCo filter. It will take the form of a central media compartment housing a media bed of reborn media about 14" deep and 36" long. PVC piping will run through the media compartment connecting a 12" section on each end. Each 12" compartment will contain redundant pumps. The section at the end of the sump will be the process compartment that pumps water through the media bed using piping located at the top of the media bed, and the water will return to this compartment through piping running through the bottom of the media bed. The compartment on the other end of the media compartment, closest to the general sump, will contain 2 pumps and float switches to exchange water with the sump area. This will be fed with water from the piping running along the bottom of the media compartment. Above the media in the media compartment will be a 4" deep sand bed separated by a perforated sheet. The sand in this bed will be fairly heavy (36" x 24" x 4"), so internal buttressing inside the media compartment will be added for the perforated sheet to sit on. I am planning on each section of the filter area having its own lid to cut down on evaporation and light. All the plumbing will transit through bulkheads in the walls of the compartments rather than from the top to make tops simple. There will be a top bezel on the filter, so this may be utilized for inter compartment plumbing as well.
That is my rough plan for the sump at the moment. In other news, my A.C.R calcium reactor is supposed to be shipping. Hopefully Bill (@Pigpen) gets this out to me soon. It's been a long wait.
Any constructive thoughts or feedback would be welcomed.
Dennis
OP
OP
Originally I was planning only dead rock for this tank. You can see the rock structures I planned out a few pages (and several months) back. I am reconsidering this decision. I was always planning to fly in some small amount of TBS live rock, just to get some diversity for this tank. Now I am thinking of going more in the direction of live rock and sand. I remember my first tank back in the late 80's, early 90's and it was 100% live rock. Mind you I could not keep anything alive back then, but the organisms that grew out of that live rock were mesmerizing. If I knew then, what I know now, I would have had a pretty amazing little tank.
After a couple of years, I gave up trying to keep anything in the tank, but I kept the tank running, the original 6500K MH lights were left on a daily cycle, the pumps and heaters going. I would top up the water level with RODI daily, or whenever the pump sucked air and made a heck of a racket. When I finally shutdown the tank, when I was moving apartments, it had been running for a total of 5 years, the last 3 years on auto pilot and neglected. I was completely shocked at what I found. The tank had a complete functioning ecosystem still. There were snails, sponges, micro serpent stars, anemones (aptasia actually) and all sorts of things living. The coralline algae obscured pretty much 100% of each pane, and the pane closest to the window had coralline 1/4" thick. When the tank dried out, this section flaked off in huge sheets. I remember feeling completely dejected when the last of the water drained out and all these creatures where scrambling about in the bottom of the tank and I had no idea that they were there.
So now I am leaning towards flying in 500 lbs of live rock split between TBS and GulfLiveRock and 500 lbs of live sand, again split between the 2 vendors.
I would have to wait and see what shape and sizes of pieces arrive to do an actual scape, but the live sand can go in both the bottom of the tank (the starboard is only to prevent rock on glass) and for the sandbed portion of the media filter.
It would be really cool to see what life comes along for the ride.
Dennis
After a couple of years, I gave up trying to keep anything in the tank, but I kept the tank running, the original 6500K MH lights were left on a daily cycle, the pumps and heaters going. I would top up the water level with RODI daily, or whenever the pump sucked air and made a heck of a racket. When I finally shutdown the tank, when I was moving apartments, it had been running for a total of 5 years, the last 3 years on auto pilot and neglected. I was completely shocked at what I found. The tank had a complete functioning ecosystem still. There were snails, sponges, micro serpent stars, anemones (aptasia actually) and all sorts of things living. The coralline algae obscured pretty much 100% of each pane, and the pane closest to the window had coralline 1/4" thick. When the tank dried out, this section flaked off in huge sheets. I remember feeling completely dejected when the last of the water drained out and all these creatures where scrambling about in the bottom of the tank and I had no idea that they were there.
So now I am leaning towards flying in 500 lbs of live rock split between TBS and GulfLiveRock and 500 lbs of live sand, again split between the 2 vendors.
I would have to wait and see what shape and sizes of pieces arrive to do an actual scape, but the live sand can go in both the bottom of the tank (the starboard is only to prevent rock on glass) and for the sandbed portion of the media filter.
It would be really cool to see what life comes along for the ride.
Dennis
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I am a big fan of starting with as much live rock as one can afford.
I'm thinking the exact same thing regarding live rock/sand... I just wish there was some way that we could import Australian Live Rock like they have over at Cairns Marine to get something less dense with more porosity... I've been met with crickets or a negative by pretty much everyone I've asked that question to. I just don't like the aquacultured, mined from the ground stuff, plus I've started to read here and there that it starts to crumble after awhile...
OP
OP
I'm thinking the exact same thing regarding live rock/sand... I just wish there was some way that we could import Australian Live Rock like they have over at Cairns Marine to get something less dense with more porosity... I've been met with crickets or a negative by pretty much everyone I've asked that question to. I just don't like the aquacultured, mined from the ground stuff, plus I've started to read here and there that it starts to crumble after awhile...
I hear you about the aquacultured rock. The BRS Reef Saver that I bought, and the Marco that I bought after, are all very crumbly. I guess being buried for a few million years makes you brittle
I have a few hundred pounds of old school real live rock in my frag tank and sump. Unfortunately it is infested with vermitid snails. A bit of catch 22. I don't want to nuke the rock and start over, essentially turning it into dry rock, but getting rid of the snails is tedious. I may just wait until I have the 500 G cycled and running using cultured LR and then I could bleach and cook the old school rock little by little and bring it into the 500 G system to be seeded by the cultured rock and live sand.
Still far away from being at the point where I need worry about that.
Dennis
OP
OP
A couple of new things. I received my A.C.R CalRx that I ordered for this tank.
Here it is undergoing a leak test. This reactor should be able to handle any amount of supplementation that this tank will require.
I also got around to playing with the light panel that will (hopefully) live up to the name of the tank. The panel is 10' x 3' DLC Lumisheet and will cover the entire back of the tank. The top and bottom edges are lit with RGB LEDs and the panel uses a DMX decoder.
In this photo I peel back a bit of the protective film and hookup the end sections of LEDs.
I was going to wait to show the panel in place on the sliding pneumatic frame, but at the rate the build is going I figured I might as well show it now. I am not sure if the edge lit LEDs in the light panel will be able to overcome the 22 x HD26 lights, but if it proves to be insufficient, I will add more LED sources to the frame edges.
Dennis
Here it is undergoing a leak test. This reactor should be able to handle any amount of supplementation that this tank will require.
I also got around to playing with the light panel that will (hopefully) live up to the name of the tank. The panel is 10' x 3' DLC Lumisheet and will cover the entire back of the tank. The top and bottom edges are lit with RGB LEDs and the panel uses a DMX decoder.
In this photo I peel back a bit of the protective film and hookup the end sections of LEDs.
I was going to wait to show the panel in place on the sliding pneumatic frame, but at the rate the build is going I figured I might as well show it now. I am not sure if the edge lit LEDs in the light panel will be able to overcome the 22 x HD26 lights, but if it proves to be insufficient, I will add more LED sources to the frame edges.
Dennis
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JumboShrimp
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Fantastic!
I suppose in 172 posts it already says whether this will be a reef tank, or a FOWLR, but may I ask? (Based on the lighting I’m assuming “reef.”)
I suppose in 172 posts it already says whether this will be a reef tank, or a FOWLR, but may I ask? (Based on the lighting I’m assuming “reef.”)
OP
OP
Fantastic!
I suppose in 172 posts it already says whether this will be a reef tank, or a FOWLR, but may I ask? (Based on the lighting I’m assuming “reef.”)
Yes, it will be reef focused. I first planned for all SPS, then went back to mostly LPS, but now I am thinking mixed, with special attention to those corals that have nice silhouettes as that will be important for the aesthetics I am shooting for. So lots of stags and torts most likely.
Dennis
BurgerFish
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Wow!!! Nice project!
Why do you use LED and not something like ATI 10 bulb T5?
Why do you use LED and not something like ATI 10 bulb T5?
ethridge78
Valuable Member
Any new updates?
I hear you about the aquacultured rock. The BRS Reef Saver that I bought, and the Marco that I bought after, are all very crumbly. I guess being buried for a few million years makes you brittle
I have a few hundred pounds of old school real live rock in my frag tank and sump. Unfortunately it is infested with vermitid snails. A bit of catch 22. I don't want to nuke the rock and start over, essentially turning it into dry rock, but getting rid of the snails is tedious. I may just wait until I have the 500 G cycled and running using cultured LR and then I could bleach and cook the old school rock little by little and bring it into the 500 G system to be seeded by the cultured rock and live sand.
Still far away from being at the point where I need worry about that.
Dennis
I hear you on the vermetids. PITA, but if you can spare the time I feel saving the old live rock is worth a lot for biological diversity. It is nasty business, but with good lighting and some bone cutters, plan on 5-10 minutes per rock. Crush 'em, then let the wrasses finish them off.
Haha. Just breaking in my ACR today. Had some minor leaks to sort first but running now. I’ll see you on one of the other aquarium engineering threads.A couple of new things. I received my A.C.R CalRx that I ordered for this tank.
Here it is undergoing a leak test. This reactor should be able to handle any amount of supplementation that this tank will require.
I also got around to playing with the light panel that will (hopefully) live up to the name of the tank. The panel is 10' x 3' DLC Lumisheet and will cover the entire back of the tank. The top and bottom edges are lit with RGB LEDs and the panel uses a DMX decoder.
In this photo I peel back a bit of the protective film and hookup the end sections of LEDs.
I was going to wait to show the panel in place on the sliding pneumatic frame, but at the rate the build is going I figured I might as well show it now. I am not sure if the edge lit LEDs in the light panel will be able to overcome the 22 x HD26 lights, but if it proves to be insufficient, I will add more LED sources to the frame edges.
Dennis
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